jimsaddler

Hi Sixer forget the Speedy stitcher, they don't even make good Darts. Learn how to use an Awl and 2 needles is the best advice, to make the best work. Kindest Regards. Jim Saddler.

Hi UKRay Simple sugestion for easy Thread Stand. Large Baby Formula tin or Powdered Milk Tin with Flip out Lid. Punch a hole big enough to take an eyelett (whatever you've got. from Shoe to Sail) in the centre of the Lid, clinch the eyelet in the hole. Place your Thread cop in the Tin, run the thread through the eyelet, then put the lid back on the Tin. Then run the thread to the Machine as per normal. Keeps the thread clean. Can be placed anywhere. Doesn't twist or bend. No Frills construction! An Old Boot Maker showed me this trick when I was a boy. He had all of his Thread tins (different colours) on a shelf above his Patcher so he could reach them without leaving his Machine. Also works well for smaller Spools in smaller tins. Thread stands are so flimsy and take up a lot of room and get caught up when sewing bulky items. My other tip is to Drill a hole in the Machine Bench and stand the Thread Cop on the floor under the hole. Only problem is getting thread dirty. I also bought a neat little set-up of, Spool base with a Stainless Steel Rod bent at about 14" to form the take off arm of aprox 4 1/2"(drilled near the end). This simply screws into the side of the base, whch has 2 holes to screw to the Bench. Cost $5.00 at a Fair. Now I'm looking for more as I use it as a portable stand for different Machines. The only drawback with the Tins is you have to open them to see how much Thread is left. Vacola (Fruit preserving) Jars can be used and you can see the thread level through them. Please have a Happy Day. We've had good Rain so I'm very Happy. Kindest Regards. Jim Saddler.

Sorry this is not a Saddlers tool. I've seen several similar designs for 2 different Jobs. The main one is Horticultural for Bud Grafting, hence the little Spike near the Handle. I saw one similar to this used by an Orange Grower about 50 years ago, but it was nearly worn out from use. The other similar Knife was a Latex Tapping knife I believe was made by Boker for Supervisors in Plantations. If I recall rightly the Catalogue was from the very early 1900's. The Pocket Knife Handle is the same as several other grafting Knives I have owned or seen. I hope this will help. By the way just because it's not a Saddlers Tool doesn't mean it wasn't used by a Saddler. I would imagine it would have been useful for wide Channeling or similar. Especially as the quality of these Knives was usually very good. I hope that this will be of some help to you. Kindest Regards. Jim Saddler

Many thanks Ryan Can you get it copied to PDF format on CD? As a lot of manuals are converted that way now. We're having another Rainy warm day here. Rained every day since Christmas after none since July. Sorry I cant work out how convert Warm Weather to send to you. Kindest Regards. Jim Saddler.

G'Day Ryan I love your good manners! thankyou. This why LW is such a good Forum for learning. Reverse is easy to use with a Leather point as long as you position the stroke carefully when switching to reverse. A fraction late and it will jump in the same hole, a fraction early and it cuts the stitch. A bit of practice and you'll achieve a good result. One word of warning though. When using Braid in the bobbin don't reverse if its to be seen as for some reason it stays exposed and looks yucky. Anyone else had this problem? I'm interested in your Military Specs from a historical view. Would it be possible to get a copy of them somehow. Please have a Happy Day. Kindest Regards. Jim Saddler.

Hi Ryano Please remember there are people out here who have made a living out of Leather for a great many years and are sharing their Knowledge with others who are not so experienced. So please don't say that someone is giving false information like you have done. From memory there is a constraint on the conversion owing to the extra depth the Needle has to travel for pick-up. It runs out of Groove so the Thread abraids in heavier thn 5/8". Like I acually sewed A 3/4" Back Band on a 45K25 but the Thread was abraided and and weakened. So that Backband still sits on my Shelf to remind me. The Needle Groove stops at 1/2", so the Thread has no protection from there on. I have owned and used several Awl and Needle Machines in my lifetime and found that although they do a wonderful job of stitching. They leave a lot to be desired for Harness work. The learning curve for Staff to operate them is too long for a start. The Clones fit the bill nicely with all of their attachments, Servo Motors and the ease of learning. As well as this there is a wealth of info available from this Forums Contributors. When I say I wish I had one 40 years ago I am very serious. At times I had as many as 6 different Machines (including Awl & Needle Union L Stitch) to do what I now do with one 441. Also take into account that none had reverse, so there was a lot of back tacking by Hand as well to finish off the ends. Now I have a 441 on Castors that I can move easily from Bench to Bench and Jobs can be accomplished so easily. This week I'm repairing Saddles and Heavy Harness and I've had to sew from 2.5mm to 1" in substance. I have not had to alter the Tension or Feet all week and every job has won praise from the Customer as to how neat the Stitching and workmanship is (please remember these are Old items of Repair). Then to finnish off this week I am doing New Skirts and Stirrup Leathers for a Little Western Saddle with the same 441. So this is why I say Awl and Needle is nice. But for practical use and ease of use the 441 Clones are very hard to beat because of the range they can do so easily. So please brag about your Awl and Needles for what they can do! BUT! there are Limitations (let alone the Price) for the average Leathercrafter. By the way I love old Machines of all types and want an old Randall for the heck of it, GOOD Machines. ALSO I love Hand Sewing which is better than all of the Machines. For instance My Hands will sew an Honest 1mm to several inches or more with just a simple change of Awl and Needles. The resulting Stitch is so Neat back and front that an Up-market Customer once seriously asked me to make an odd mistake to show it's Hand sewn. I haven't found a Machine to beat that yet. The only constraint is my Lousy Arthritic Back which only allows me 20 or thirty minutes Stitching then needs a day or two to recover. Hence I can do several hours at the 441 without the recovery time requiremnt. All Machines are subject to Wear and Tear, my Backs out of Warranty! So please Keep up the good work with both eyes open. Kindest Regards. Jim Saddler.

Hi Barra I'm Singing Out. Many thanks for the kind offer. Digittising Records to PDF format is frustrating me, any sugestions. Kindest Regards. Jim Saddler.

I use the same Machine for Harness Decoration up to a bit thicker than 3/8". It is very similar to the Singer 45K25 which was used as the Saddlers second Machine for a great many years. Used slow they are very good for sewing most Leathers but not Wool on Sheep Skin. I find them more accurate when Sewing Winker Eye Decoration and the like. Years ago I used a 45K exclusively for sewing Pouches and other Bag Gussets. With the new Servo Motors they are easy to use. I hope this will help you. Kindest Regards. Jim Saddler.

Hi Barra Thankyou for publishing the Photo's. As I think you know I am the Official historian of The Saddlers and Harness makers Association of Australia and charged with gathering as much as we possibly can about our forebears and their Businesses. You are right about the Ties, The Tradesmen wore Ties as a mark of respect. Kelly's was a very old respected Harness making Business that achieved Fame for their Tradesmans Harness. Funny the picture.6 is not my old Shop. This is an instance of fiddling with History by ill informed ??? This shop used to be a Photographic Studio turned Jack the Whippers. My old shop was moved again by the ??? and changed arround 2000. The old Pioneer Settlement has been through a lot of changes from the original concept of "experiencing Living History" in the 60's & 70's. Pity Bottom line management is more important. The concept was brilliant though. I enjoyed most of my time there doing it the "Olde Way". With that might I ask if any Members of this Forum have any "Australian Saddlers & Harness Makers Information, Photo's, Books, Stories and the like they can share with us to record the History before all chance is lost can they please send me a PM with details. This would be very much appreciated. I'm trying to learn to Digitally record every thing so we have a permanent record. Kindest Regards Jim Beaton.

Hi Allen I don't know about the Cobra, but the Cowboy 7441 <cowboysew.com> or 4500 will sew from repairing Work Chaps up to Fender Skirts (and Sulky Traces, Panels, Bridles, Horse Rugs, Saddle Pads, Webbing and the like, without problem as I've done it all on my Machine without adjusting the Tensions. There are not many jobs that need special adjustment, although some will disagree. But that is how I have found the 7441 handles the work. So many Saddlers that now own them have reported the same to me also. Then there is the Saddler who rang me praising how good his 7441 was, so I asked him please tell me of any complaints you can think of? After a while he answered " it doesn't break Needles". He replaced a Clone 441 that he'd brought (for a lot more money) with our Cowboy 7441. Apparently he went through a packet of Needles a week with the clone, but had only worn out Needles with ours. Nice complaint to have isn't it. The Clone is still gathering Dust. I sold my Pearson#6, 133K8, 7-5 and 45K25 as I didn't need them any more. Especially as none had reverse. With the modern Servo Motors and Speed reducers you can also have total control of the speed so easily. Makes the Job of the Saddler much easier. I'm in Childers, Queensland. 07 4212641, so please feel free to give me a ring for any queries you may have. I've got to to say it "I love my Cowboy 441" It's the one Machine an Aussie Saddler needs in the Shop for new work and Repairs. I wish I'd had one in Shop 40 years ago. It would have saved a lot of Headaches. Especially as we've added essential accessories that are needed based on "Bench experience as a Australian Country Saddler and Harness Maker since 1961". Kindest Regards. Jim Beaton the Saddler who sells Saddlers Sewing Machines. Sorry I'm not an X Spirt, just a Saddler! Usually I sit on the Fence and watch the Battle rage with the X Spirts trying to sell more Machines than the other, but your comment tickled my fancy. Hey everyone! Do you know the definition of an X spirt? X = unknown quantity, Spirt = Drip under Pressure. Please may everyone Have a Very Happy New Year

Try a soak in vinegar for an hour or so then force the wheel to move a little bit then oil it with fine oil and force it a git more. then dip it in Talcum Powder and keep it turning. This acts as a fine polish to free it up. Run it over some scrap Leather vigorously as this will help to polish the touching surfaces and allow them to run nicely. When you are happy with the freedom, oil it and warm the Wheel and frame in a light Gas flame and run it again on Scrap. I keep my Wheels in Talcum wrapped in oiled Calico, in a Tin to keep the Rust away. My main set are over 100 year old and that is how they a have always been kept. So I figure that it has been tried and tested fairly well. The Broken Teeth I would file to shape and Buff them. I hope this is of use to you. Kindest Regards. Jim Saddler.

Hi Oldtimer this is a Cementing Machine. Primarily for putting contact adhesive on Soles to be bonded to the Uppers. The Tank on rt holds the Glue and it is fed evenly to the Rollers on the left which then spread it evenly on the Sole as it is fed through. The other Machine is a Sole Skiver less the Blade. Kindest Regards. Jim Saddler.

The funny thing about the A1 is they usually go very cheap. I never paid more than $A20. for one. One word of warning though is they need a lot of experience to use one as the tension is fiddly to set up from Thread to Thread. But the Stitch is so neat when you get the Tensions right. Better luck next time (if I don't see it first). Kindest Regards. Jim Saddler.

Hi all The contri brought back a lot of memories of Machines I've owned and operated over the years. If you scan them would it be possible for me to get a copy for our Archives (SHMAA). As I am the Official Historian and I get asked by the younger generation about these Machine regularly. The Pearson A1 was a particular favorite of mine for Decorative Stitching of Leggings, Beautiful Stitch and tension. Unfortunately I took so many of them to the Islands with me and they have "disapeared". The Saddle & Boot Emblem stood for something with all of the Tradesmen I learned from. The elusive item I never got was the Dock Stuffer. Has anyone got one or used one? And the the Pilot was one of the few that could sew arround Stock Saddle Knee Pads. It's a pity that this grand old Company has gone. Kindest Regards. Jim Saddler.

Hi Leatheroo I know exactly how you felt. There are a few of these people runningstalls around Aus. They're not Tradespeople or Craftspeople. Butthey're making money out of "ordinary" Leathergoods, that are knockedup with rivets and no love for anything but $'s. I like you, havespoken to several and got similar answers. Or statements like "it's themoney in the Bag at the end of the Day not the quality of the Leatheror Skill that counts". Nowadays I just get a big laugh when I see them bashing out what I'dcall Pako Padi type stuff for sale as "Genuine Handcrafted Leather".Never to progress to better Quality. My Daughter made better Belts whenshe was 8 yrs old and even Hand Stitched them. That's why I laugh, "it'snot as good as Kids Stuff". Like so many others who visit LW I'm still learning and hope that I can continue to do so for the rest of my life. There's only one thing better than learning though, that's passing on what you've learned for others to use. That's what is so good about LW. Kindest Regards. Jim Saddler.

Hi Barra here's one that was played on me at Melbourne Show in the 70's, never caught the culprit though. I was doing a Demo Saddle and had my Trusty 45k on its Treadle Stand (circa1891). Parlimentarians were approaching so I dutifully started pedaling nicely, suddenly the Thread Cop took a ride up to the take off bar and jammed, breaking the Thread, which caused me to muck up the highly visible border on the Doeskin covered Dressage Saddle. Cause a Blob of Araldite Glue on the thread! The Premier did laugh as did the Ministers. Never did finish that beautiful Saddle. But was invited back again after that, because of my patience ( I only swore under my Breath). How about going 1.000 km's to fix a Machine that wouldn't Sew and finding the Needle was in back to front, because owner was looking from the back of the machine when I asked which way the groove was facing, left or right. How about trying to solve the problem of New Machine not sewing for Customer 2.000 Km's away. So asked a mate to look at it. He confirmed it was not sewing so I prepared to travel. Another phone call before I catch the Plane and ask Customer which way is Flywheel turning? Oh like the Pearson, away from me. I didn't swear though just got him to flick the little switch he'd fiddled with to reverse the polarity. Gee Jim now it's sewing perfectly. Thanks Mate. How about the experienced Old Operator who bought a Machine with safety Clutch, then wanted his money back as it woud not sew. I called in and noticed the Thread jammed in the Bobbin, unjammed it, re-set the Clutch and it sewed away perfectly. Darn he said thats a handy Gadget. Did you read the instructions I says. Yep he says, I cant read without my Glasses. Broke em the day before the Machine arrived so I looked at the pictures. He'd never used a Modern Machine before only 45K25's & Pearsons #6's Good to be able to laugh now. Please keep laughing. Kindest Regards. Jim Saddler.

Hi Todd Saddle Stitching is done with the 2 Needles, Right. If you are right handed you hold the Awl in yr Rt hand and a needle in each hand. A lfet hander will hold the Awl in his Left hand etc. What happens is when you push the Awl through the Leather you return the left needle into the hole as the Awl is withdrawn. without puting the Awl down you pick up the left needle and pull it through until about 5" of thread comes with it then you lay the Right Needle on the Thread and allow the needle to be withdrawn back into the hole where you can pick it up with left hand and pull the thread through. At this point I throw the left thread up and over the needle and pull both threads through and set the tension that makes for a neat stitch. The idea of throwing the left thread over is to from the same slope on back and front of the sewing, which looks much better and also forms a Knot inside the leather for extra strength. I hope that this is not too confusing for you. The good news is that I am in the middle of getting a new Workshop built so I'll have room to set up a clear section (old shop is crowded out) for taking Photo's of stitching etc. As soon as I can I'll get a set done showing all the proper steps and post them. Please have a Happy Day. Kindest Regards. Jim Saddler.

Hi Oldtimer If you look at the Knife Sheaf in the photo you'll see that the Thread has a straighter lay than when it is on the Spool. This is what I mean by unraveling. The Holster thread is hard to pick up with my eyesight. As explained in the post by CampbellRandell. There is the same tendency in Hand Sewing although most wont spot it. The lay actually becomes straighter as you sew. Please have an experiment with both twists S & Z and you'll see what I mean. I now am using a .8mm or 1.mm Polly Braid for some Sewing which doesn't seem to have any problem, except I have to use bigger needles than for wax ends. I've got some Italian Siliconised / waxed thread that is looking very good as it is rounder in profile so looks finer. I hope this is not confusing and maybe some help. Kindest Regards. Jim Saddler.

Hi Rawhide Please have a close look at your stitch. You'll find that there is a definite tendency to unravel as you stitch with left Hand (Z) for the same reason as Machine sewing. S will lay down better for a Right Hander. Or you can use Braid which doesn't seem have the problem so much. Kindest Regards. Jim Saddler.

Hi Simply put. Right Handed Sewers should use Right Hand S Twist and the thread will maintain it's twist as you sew.. If you use Z Left twist it will unravel as you sew. If you're a Lefty use the Z. Have a try and you'll see what happens. Kindest Regards. Jim Saddler.

Hi all can I put in two Bobs worth here please. I've worked on a Saddle or 2 in my time. The biggest problem I have encountered is Heat. If you put any item on a Horses back that doesn't Breathe it overheats, end result lovely White Hairs appear and Horse develops funny little habits when ridden. To Keep Air or Gel in a Panel it must be Airtight so it can't Breathe. Even in extremes of cold a Horse can overheat, let alone in the Heat. Oh well, who's worried about the Horse, the Panels look nice. Lets have a Barbque? Nothing is better than a good fitting conventional Tree and Natural Stuffing in the Panel. Gimmicks come and go but Good Saddle Standards always outlast them and keep going. You can't better them. Good on you Guys for speaking up. Kindest Regards. Jim Saddler.

Hi I just had a good laugh when I clicked on the Saddle Photo. I saw a lot of these fake Aussie Saddles in the late 60's. From memory they sold for around $20.00. which was just a dollar or two above the Indian Junk that flooded the Market in 70's. Rocking Horse Saddles they were nicknamed because they rocked you back into the Cantle. Complaints were the only comments made about them. The Shoulder Leather was reasonable, made good Pump washers for Windmills an old Saddler commented to me. The style is from the 1910 era of Mass produced Saddles when they rode short in the Stirrup (like sitting in a Chair). Honestly they do have some value as a collectors piece as a Cape Saddle I think they were called. But not for Riding unless you want people to laugh at you. There is some good work involved in the making. Pity they did not have better style and fit. The Short Flaps are like that because of the short cutting area of Shoulder Squares they were made from. A pair of Flaps and Skirts to the Shoulder. Economy of usage being the order of the day. Labour was very Cheap though. Sold by the Dozen to the Shops. Can't you just see the Gentleman sitting up like Jacky in it with a Bowler Hat and Hacking Cane, Jodphurs Ballooning in the wind, Trotting down the Street. It's a bit of history for a collection to hang on a Hook to remind us how lucky we are to-day. Kindest Regards. Jim Saddler.

Hi Dave Can I explain the difference as I understand it. Light Resin is from Trees, Pine as recall. For Saddle and Bridle Stitching (Brown Saddling) the light is used for the lighter Colour and to avoid staining the Work. Patent Hemp or fine Shoe thread are waxed with Light Wax in a knob about the size of a Bantams Egg. Dark Resin is Pitch or Asphhalt which is a petroleum derivitive. Ideal for Black Wax for Black Harness or Repair work where there is no problem with stains, the mix is usually quite sticky. This is usually made in smaller knobs as the Common Hemp used with it sheds more and the wax becomes a ball of thread quicker. I seldom use the Black now, guess I don't want to have to wash my hands with Kerosene then Lemon Juice & Salt, like Grandpa taught me. Kindest Regards. Jim Saddler.

Hi Ben Many thanks for your input on the Bench. You are quite right, some have longer Arms etc, some are shorter. I love the idea of putting Blocks under as a test, I'll use it for my Daughters Bench when I make it. Many Thanks for that. Kindest Regards. Jim Saddler.

Hi Guys An old rule of thumb for Benches is to measure the height from the floor to yr Hip and add one inch. This should alleviate the Back ache. I've got one of those backs that Give Hell if stretched or strained. So an Occupational Therapist prescribed a "Stand up Stool" which has helped enormously to relieve the strain. Basically the Stool is Gas filled and fully adjustable. When standing, as in Cutting out. The Stool is at full height, with the Seat tilted forward to support my Buttocks and take strain off my back. When sitting I lower it and put the Seat level. The Gas creates a softening effect and takes the jar out of movement. Cost a lot (over A$500.) but well worth it. Oh and I use those Pressure Glued Pine Kitchen Bench tops you can buy in Hardware Stores as the top for cutting on. Less wear on Knives and tools. Look good too. Kindest Regards. Jim Saddler.