jimsaddler

Answer is simple, If you want it to lay flat sew both edges from the same direction. The same with Glueing, fold from the one end or you'll get a twist. Same with lining lay from the same end, don't go round or you get a twist. Light Leathers are the worst. So take any tension out before you sew. Even if you use a Scrubbing Brush to wipe the back of the job in one direction and then Sew the same way . Kindest regards. Jim.

Art you're right it's a Pfaff 335, not a copy. I spent too much time on one that was not Brand named but it was a Pfaff. You pick it up from some of the parts that are numbered. A good machine but the Bobbin is too small. Kindest regards. Jim.

Hi to all Resin / Rosin / Pine tar all are resin and can be used in mixing with the Beeswax. Rodeo Riders certainly have it as do Baseball Players. The reason for using it is to create grip as Beeswax is slippery. So the Resin acts as a hold to stop the Thread sliding back. Also it further preserves the Thread (I've read that the Egyptians used Resins to preserve Mummies). I guess that it also is a hard Habit to break as it has only been used for a few thousand years in making Threads. So go for it, it definitely makes for better Stitching as I've found no way to improve on it. Silicone was tried and failed after a few years. So if it ain't Broke, why fix it. Colour doesn't matter too much by the way, but I like a pale resin for White threads. Actually the Older generation used White Lead in their Wax for White threads (I used it in the early 60's also) but it was condemned for Health reasons. Sure looked good though. I wonder if that is why the Brown Saddlers lived longer than the Strappers? Please have a Happy Day. Kindest Regards. Jim.

Lorenzo, these don't even make good Darts. Let alone do a good stitch. 2 needles is the best. Jim.

Lippy Thankyou for your kind comments, I will try to get a photo posted of several Clams including a hinged one made from a piece of 3" x 3" pine that is hinged. For the best Clams though they should be Steamed or you can cheat by using Boiling Water on the ends to be Bent. If you can get Hickory, Oak, Spotted Gum, Lemon Wood or any flexible Hardwood in aprox 4 x 5/8" double Dressed. Keep pouring Boiling water on aprox 12" from the best end. You make a jig to form the bend about the thickness of a house Brick, in fact I saw a Brick used once to form Clams. the idea is to force the heated timber into the size curve you want plus a bit more, by Clamping down on the timber to hold the shape. Let it dry for a few days then release it. If you have soaked it (or Steamed) well enough and it is hot enough it will only spring back a small amount. Then you get at the 2 halves with a Horse Shoe Rasp and shape your Clams identically (Mirror Image) to suit. Then champfer the inside of the Jaws so that they will allow the working edge to come to-gether. I actually like this edge to be prominent for Strap stitching and flat to-gether for Saddle Flaps and the like (less likely to scratch). These are then Screwed to-gether at the bottom end and a Heavy Screw is used 1/3rd of the way up to provede tension. The Hinged Clam is simply cut out on a Band Saw to shape, sanded till it looks and feels right then one jaw is sawn off and and a Hinge screwed to re-join it and a 5/16 Bolt Wing Nut used to tighten the Jaws to-gether. A Seat Spring is used between the Jaws to open them (Bolt goes through the Spring). A long flap of Apron Split is used as a cover so the Thread doesn't catch the Wing Nut. Please excuse me delaying the Photo's as I can't work out how to get them loaded so I'll work on it. Kindest Regards. Jim. Barra's Clams can be made also by the Steam method and just insert a Leg into the Jaws.

These were probably from Old Harry downs from Frankston, Vic, Australia. He did tell me he sent several lots the the US. Someone told me they had a set, now I can't remember who it was to get a copy. It worked with a car spring on the out side from memory. I actually had a set and they were strong, good for learners. Kindest Regards. Jim.

Hey Barra I've got to side with you. Clams is the way that I was taught and at one stage I had a pair for every Job. Including; narrow (2") fine jaws for fine Bridle stitching, 3 1/2" for general strapping, 4 1/2" for Trace and Heavy work with a sliding Band to lock the jaws, 2 sizes in curved Jaw Tug Clams, several with Notched Jaws for Sewing Rounded work, and 2 pairs with big bows and Pig skin lined jaws for Sewing Saddle Flaps (right & left). Actually there were 16 sets. One the other side of the coin when I ran the Factory all of my women stitchers (50 to 60) used Horses or Ponies to keep thier modesty. The Saddle Stitchers used Jaws that were chunkier and lined with Harness Leather to avoid Scratching the work these were lever cosed at the back of the Jaw, The Harness & Bridle Stitchers used angled Jaws that were finer these were clsoed by a 1 1/2" strap for leverage. Unfortunately all of my Clams dissapeared so now I'm back to 1 set and a Horse that I made out of Rosewood. The Clams are used 90% of the time as thay are easier to work with at the bench and I can keep them between my legs while doing the set-up on the bench. To justify the speed thing a Clam sewer can sew a Barcoo bridle complete with Billet reins in 46mins, a Horse stitcher takes 5 minutes more. That was done as a time trial in the early 80's with all stopd pulled out. By the same token the Horse was superior for sewing Traces as the could sew further without changing grip. The hinged model shown in the post is similar to that used by a Dutch Friend of mine and he was very quick with it. He sat on it and created his grip by his weight on the leg. So suffice it to say that what ever works for the Job use it. Saddles and Strappingwould be better off sewn with Clams because of the depth that can be accomodated easily by them. Also if your Workshop is small they take up less room (Mine stand where I can get them without getting off my Stool. Holsters and most Harness are better sewn on a Horse. Then there is the Pony, very handy and transportable. Make sure you use a long Flap of flexible Leather to hang over the wing nut dow to the leg so the Threads don't catch on. I used to carry one in the Spring Cart and sew Stirrup Leathers and Bridles while the Horse was making his way along the road. It's better than Knitting (yes I had Rubber Tyres on the Cart). Kindest Regardas. Jim.

Hi Bree I think you hit the nail on the head about the Chemicals not penetrating. It's actually quite common The "Bone" is not common as usually it is shaved off in the Tanning process. Raw Spots pull you up with a jolt, and are usually at the heaviest spots. When you buy Hides turn them over and run your cupped hand under the Hide (Grain Side) and your three middle fingers on the Flesh side in the middle of the cupped area, by moving over the hide in suspect area's you will feel the difference in flex of the hide. This allows you to reject the Hide (and Jolts). Watch for discoloration spots especially glossy area's. Takes a bit of practice, but allows you to avoid problems. Or put the side to some other use. Some batches of hides (20) will have 2 or 3 "flinty or Raw spots". Bony tissue spots are usually Shaved off in the Tanning process when they hit the Blade as they are obvious and the whole hide is downgraded. I hope this helps with buying Leather for you all. Kindest Regards. Jim.

Hi Barra I just read your mention of Gee Wy and remember the fact that it is recomended for cleaning the Chrome work on Cars. I've had to knock off for the day after repairing Saddles that were GREASED with it. B###dy stuff.Jay El is a Beeswax Dressing and quite good, the original recipe for it was to use Artists Turpentine to dissolve the Beeswax but they changed it and used Mineral Turpentine. Olive Oil can have Castor oil added to it (1 large Spoon to 1/2 pint) to stop Mice being attracted to it, in fact I used to dress Top Turnout Show Saddles and Equipment with such a mixture to great effect. So here is the original Beeswax Dressing recipe that I have used for nearly 50 years to keep Leather from going dark. Followed by a second recipe for Plaiting Grease which will also do a similar job. 1/2 lb Bleached Beeswax (Boiled to take the Honey out of it) aprox 3/4pint Pure (Artists)Turpentine. Shave or crumble the Beeswax into small pieces and pour it into the Turpentine in a large open mouth Jar and cap it. Shake it when ever you pass by until it is all disolved and combined into a sludgy paste. Keep it sealed when not used. This paste can be applied to your Leather evenly, in a warm area to assist in penetration. after a few hours it can be polished with a soft cotton cloth. Hey presto Water proof, preservative and Lubrication in one. RM's is similar but with the additon of Lanoline. Plaiting Grease. A cake of Washing Soap,shaved into flakes (I use sunlight), 1/2 lb pure Lard (Pig Fat). Dissolve the cake of Soap in aprox 1 pint of Warm water overnight until you have a Jelly. Put in medium Saucepan and bring to simmer, add the Lard to melt with the hot Soap. When melted stir thoroughly and remove from Heat. Continue stirring and place the Saucepan in a few inches of Water in the Sink and continue stirring until the mixture cools to a Creamy White Foamy concoction. This dressing used to be used by Whip Makers while Plaiting thier Whips as it helps keep the Rooskin Pliable. I have found that it also is a good Saddle and Leather Dressing that also doesn't darken very much when used lightly over several applications. I hope that these recipes are useful to you all. Kindest Regards. Jim.

Hey Mike the salt is to pull the Blood out of the Pizzle and preserve it. The Alum salts are used in old fashioned Tanning it also preserves. Tannin (Tan Bark solution or very strong Tea) can also be used. This stops the tissue swelling in wet weather and the Varnish seals it in. Kindest Regards. Jim.

Pizzles should be salted with Rock Salt and a long piece of Spring Wire threaded through while they are still wet. the thick end is secured strongly into a rafter or similar with the wire protruding then the thin end is secured to an Anvil or similar weight with plenty of room for it to stretch the Pizzle as it dries 2ft is enough. Rub Salt into it every day and scrape off the tissues gradualy back to flesh and a good shape. If you want a twisted effect simply bind with Copper or Brass wire when you hang it. don't use stell wire as it will stain. It takes at least a week in hot weather up to months in winter. I used to finish off with a sludge of Alum rubbed into the Flesh about midway through the Drying. When Dry Cut the wire to lenth and put a dob of solder or weld on each end. Varnish to preserve it and you should have the Best Handle you can get. They used to be refferred to as Sinew Crops and I've seen some that were over 140 years old and still perfect. Kindest Regards. Jim.

Hey Bree It appears from the Photo and the description to be a Raw spot. Not much you can do but avoid it. Usualy you will spot it on the Flesh side of the Hide a a discoloration and from the feel as it will be harder to flex in that area. Actually it can be an advantage if used as a point end for a Strap or Stirrup Leather as when the Holes are punched through it they tend to hold from Splitting better. If it is Skirt Leather you might try Damping the Hide and leaving it to mellow for a few Hours before cutting it. in some cases this works. Another way is to rub Saddle Soap into the Grain with a Warm Moist Cloth and wait till it Mellows then Oil your Splitter Blade lightly. Many years ago a certain Religeous person asked me to make a "Calf" (?) Flogging Strap out of a section of Raw centered Veg. The specifications were 3" wide by 2'2" long with a handle cut into one end. It must be made from Hide with a Raw center! Funny how the Students at the School he taught at threw Mud and Icecream on my Shop Window for making such an item. Apparently he mistook them for Calves and gave them 5 of the Best. His previous "Calf Flogger had been cut into strips and he wanted one that was nearly impossible to cut up. I never made another one despite numerouse requests to do so from his Fellow Teachers. Please have a Happy day. Kindest Regards. Jim.

The reason for the switch to synthetic threads was purely commercial. The new breed of Bean Counters wanted to make more money that they could control the margins (exhorbitant Profits)from start to finish. Hey presto Petroleum products! Linen has too many inputs From Farmers, Mills, Trades people and the like. So we are told of all the fantastic new Threads and Linen (Hemp) is pushed to the backburner. Also the Bean counters like Petroleum products so much that "New Leather/Saddle Dressings are discovered(?). Unfortunately the Bean counters only looked at the Profits and not at the fancy name products Like "Shiny new" " and like names and their Petro/Turpentine type bases or Silicone content. Result; Petro/Turpentine etc disolves Beeswax Dubbins and Fats used in The Best Thread Dressings and Leathers, leaving the Linen and Veg leathers unprotected. By the same token Synthetic Threads are also affected by the same Petro type Dressings and enhanced UV damage results. So where are we going? Go back is the catch word. Use natural Materials if you want a product to last the Test of time. Avoid petro Based Dressing and Threads when using Veg Tan Leathers. For short term fixes go with the Bean Counters (CEO's) and make them lots of money. Kindest Regards. Jim.

Note when you use a Sewing machine you mostly have to use Z twist or it unravels and breaks or gnarls. The same happens when you stitch from the other side. when a lefty makes a thread a righty can't use it and vice versa. years ago I had a situation in a Football Factory where the Thread maker was a Lefty and there were a lot of problems with his threads. The Girls had tangles and breakages alll the time. Changed to a right hand thread maker and production went up, no breakages or tangles. So the answer is in the flick of the wrist. Kindest regards. Jim.

Hi Tony I still get confused with threads. I brought up in cords and then numbers came in and now there are deniers. I think that some one is trying to confuse me. Well 6 to 8 cord are for very heavy work, I use a 5 cord (#15 hemp) as normal sewing thread for hand sewing, 4 cord for nice strong 8 or 9 Stitches per inch, 3 cord for Show work at 10 to 12 SPI. But then we have the #12 Hemp that is marketed to us to-day (against our will) which is a bit too heavy for best Sewing, gets a bit too lumpy for tp sewing and then #2 Common Hemp for good strong Sewing. So based on the cord system the Linin threads were simple work our and use. Then came in the Poly blends #8 #12 #18 #20 # 30 #36 & #40, so #8 was for Pearson 6, heavy work like Traces, #12 & 18 went well in the 45K25 #20 in the Pearson A1 for nice Winker and Saddle Borders and etc. Now come the Deniers and I'm lost. So I pick up the thread manual and read off the numbers and hope I didn't make a mistake in ordering. It would be nice if Practical people not Expurts gave us a simple scale of sizes that was easy to understand. The same thing happened to our Saddle & Harness Buckles when the Metric rip off came in Australia. The expurts metricated them to scale and there has been a problem ever since. Of course when you scale down to metric you must take off the length ad depth as well as the width. So a one inch double Swage for instance got shorter in the process and suddenly we were told it is right to do so, only problem was that now a strap wouldn't fit easily in the Buckle any more. Only took centuries to learn what was the right balance for the job. By the way you kmow the definition of an Epert don't you? X is an unknown quantity and Spurt is a Drip under Pressure. Goodnight . Kindest Regards. Jim.

Hey James I've got to eat my words eh. "S" right hand Twist is for Right Handed Sewers, "Z" left hand Twist is for Left Handed Sewers. What happens is as you sew there is a tendency for the Thread to unravel if you use the wrong twist. This gives a lot of trouble with the thread looking straggly where it shows. Yes Dead Sailors are buried below the surface at Sea aren't they? Hence a stitch buried below the surface is a Dead Sailor, The big no no of Hand Sewing. Linen is not abrasive so is less likely to break the Grain. Kindest Regards. Jim.

I totally agree with Barra. For hand sewing Linen takes a lot of beating. If properly waxed it will out last Synthetics. I've been arround long enough to see the difference now 10 to 20 years is all that you can reliably get from Synthetics. I've had to replace stitching that was done by me in as short a time as 7 years using Polyester Blended Thread. Whereas I have never had a Linen Thread fail in nearly 50 years of stitching. Also there are more Dead Sailors (below the surface stitches) with Synthetics owing to the stretch factor pulling tight (overtensioning) when the next stitch is done. Please remember to use "S" twist threads so that your stitches don't unravel as you sew. Linen doesn't rot if prepared properly with Beeswax & Resin. Case in point My great Grandfather Sewed Traces in 1927 I put a new end on in 1979, the Stitches were so hard to remove after all of that time, only the Leather broke not the thread! He used 2 ounces of Resin to 3/4 lb of Washed Bees wax meleted to-gether (with a touch of Linseed oil or castor Oil in winter). Rub this into the thread until the friction melts it into the thread. Oh yes point your thread first before waxing. Remeber "S" twist thread not Z twist. Kindest Regards. Jim.

Dear Catherine Does the 93 have the Hyphernating Presser (jump) Foot. I've owned so many different 45K's I can't recall the exact differences. From memory the 93 was the cylinder version of the 45K58. I do recall that it was a good machine that had a pause in the take-up to allow the Leather to move before taking up the Thread, so there were no missed stitches and the tension was tighter. Parts Take-up arm) should be similar to the 45K25. A photo will confirm what is right for it. Kindest Regards. Jim

Hey Guys & Gals There is an easy answer to this. Cowboy & Master have had better prices and included the accessories in the deal for quite some time. Plus we SADDLERS who distribute them have been quietly working away improving them at no extra cost. Funny how we sat and watched the Hype going on about how good an ordinary Machine was so good. Now funny thing is another Company has got Steve so prices have tumbled. This I know the MASTER 441 sells here in Australia for $3.950 + gst. convert that to US$2.528 including all Attachements, Servo Motor, Pedestal Stand and you still have a better normal price than the so called Special price Cowboy is the same Machine, same development so check his prices out also. So what's it tell you? Who made the Cream from what is an ordinary, normal Clone Machine that has now got to be improved to play catch up. By the way I note that that the Special doesn't have any improvements on it yet as our have as Standard. Sorry to butt in like this but I am a Tradesmand who gets upset at Hype. This forum is not a Sales column as far as I'm concerned. It is a wonderful place to axchange ideas and Skils. So I've had my Blurb, now lets get on with the Show. Kindest Regards. Jim.

Many thanks for the laugh Knut! Another Wise Man is Weaver, as they tend to stuff up the Toilet if you Flush them. Also they may choke the Geese if left arround the House. Kindest Regards. Jim.

These things don't even make good Darts, I've tried them! One thing in their favour is someone makes money selling them to suckers who try to learn to use them and end up throwing them in some dark corner where they will be discovered in a future century for Spacemen to marvel at how gullible the ancients were.! All jokes aside I've seen Indians use them in making Shoes and Saddlery. Thats why their so called Hand Stitching Falls apart so easily. You can't beat the Awl and 2 Needles!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Kind Regards. Jim.

Hi Tony You are right about the Hammer. That is all I have ever used and in time my Factory used probably millions of them for Sandal Buckles etc. Earlier on I tried Presses of all types and setters. Gave up as they all have failures. So back to a wide faced Hammer and a dull hit. Length is usually anything from just poking through the Surface to 1/8" poking out, all work well. The principal is that when you hit with the Hammer it burrs the shaft down when you hit the Cap. The Cap is flattened holding the burr in place. If done with a dull hit there is a nice Flat Rivet head looking at you neatly. No crown showing in the middle! The Hammer saved me a lot of problems as we stopped getting returns for Failed Rivets. Kindest Regards. Jim.

Hi Tom have you got a Dremel Grinder? Why I ask is this. When you sharpen the outer edge of any Crew (Slot) Punch, you will get a burr on the inside of the Crew and it has to be removed. If not in time your Punch will bend inwards or break under the pressure of the outer angle. So I sharpen using either a Sharpening stone or a coarse Buff. Then I remove the Burr with my Dremel using a fine domed stone. I actually take a minute amount off the inside of the Cutting edge to counteract the pressure from the angle of the outside sharpened edge. This way I am able to keep my punches from deforming. Funny how not many answered your query. It seems that Sharpening Punches is something that is sorely overlooked. I know that I didn't worry much for my first 20 years or so, until I started to run out of my good Dixon punches as they were misshappen. Then I woke up and started to clean up the inside. I haven't had a problem since. Ever add up how many punches there are in a complete set of Round, Oval, Crew and Bag. 53 in total plus all the other special punches like Brace end etc. Gets very expensive, so they are worth looking after as I found out. Please have a Happy Day. Kindest Regards. Jim.

Hey Esantro My input is that you can use #24 needles on the 441 clones as long as you use a Feed Dog (bottom Feed) without using an extra Shim. The Adler Clones come complete with the required Shims. Also include the Timing device (I've never had to use it though). That is if you buy from Cowboy, Master or Neels as I'm not familiar with the rest. In the 441 clones, Cowboy, Master & Neels come with a Toothed and a Smooth Feed Dog in the Package. I personally prefer the 441 as it is uncomplicated and does the same Stitch but has more scope. I've used #23 needles also and had no problems, except having to adjust the Tensions a little bit. Just wish I'd had the 441 Clone 40 years ago. I just measured the Spacer ring on my Master 441 and it is 3.52mm. that may be why these will take the finer needles so well. I might add that the 105 (& 45K25) Clone is a better machine for decorative stitching and I use it for nice fine (#10 & 12 spi ) decorative Stitching on Harness (Patent Leather) The Borrom feed system has its drawbacks but is still my beloved second Machine. I used to use Brown Paper or Gasket Paper for Shims in old worn, 45K25's, Oil doesn't affect it and I've removed paper shims 20 years old that were still working well. I've also seen Aluminium Foil used by Sewing Mach Mechanic and it seemed to work allright. What I'm getting at is the 45K was the Leather Machine of the last Century and so there were so many ways of making them sew better even when they were worn out. Now we're finding out how to make our 441's work better. Love to see your comments on machines, shows you're inquisitive and that's the only way to learn. Kindest Regards. Jim.