jimsaddler

Hi Barra funny how I wondered the same thing, being so used to the Reverse Thread of our Tree's on the leaping Head. Also the Bar being attached to the Tree is fascinating. Makes me feel like making a Western style just for the hell of it. I did repair (renovate) several, a lot of Years ago. But they were mass produced ones. Rod and Denise congratulations for a job well done, yes please show us the end result. Kindest Regards. Jim Beaton.

Sorry for the mistake it should read Front was 1" not 2". Barra is right Whipper Snipper Plastic is good especially as you can run a #6 edge tool along the back to improve the lay of it. I've also used Plastic Weavers Cane that is oval. Please enjoy what you are doing. The effects are limitless, the results woth the effort. Kindest Regrds. Jim Saddler.

Hi Corvus Tri Raised is 3 narrow raised strips on one Strap. usually made by blocking a centre raise over something like heavy Fishing line or Braided cord. Sewing it in place then folding the cover over another piece of line each side and stitching them down also. The Top piece of Leather has to be split to aprox .8mm in order to fold easily. I used Pigskin usually and made matching Bridle Front and Nosebands like this. from memory if the front was 2" I would split a 2" strip of Leather to allow for the take-up and trim the excess off. I hope this helps you. Kindest Regards. Jim Saddler.

Dear Steadybrook, Simple answer, Yes. Sometimes you will need to lubricate the Linen with Lubricant if it is not polished. But basically Linen will sew on most newer Machines as long as it is not old and weathered. I still use Linen as a top thread for decoration stitching say on Harness Winkers and Saddles. Kindest Regards. Jim Saddler.

Hi Barra I thought I was the only one who used the Wiggly ones as Moorings. Another use for wiggly pins is to stuff up the Barrel of Air Rifles! (did that when I was about 10yrs old), Dad did not like it for some reason. It was the Wiggly Shear pin from an old 7-31 Singer. It went in 2" and jammed never to be removed again Hey lets have more wiggly stories. I've got a not so nice one about an unwanted Fix. Many Moons ago I was moving Shop. Only a couple of Doors down the Street, so I was using a Hand Trolley carefully to cart my Sewing Machines along the Footpath. It came the turn of my much treasured Pearson No6. So I very carefully loaded it onto the Trolley and started off on the journey of aprox 50 yards. Well, suddenly a Guy rushed up yelling I'll help ya, while making a grab for the carefully balanced Machine. You guessed it! Over goes the Pearson Head and what was a perfectly wonderful Machine, instantly became a pile of Spare parts including more than a few Wiggly Pins and bits. Sorry the Good Samaritan yelled as he ducked the Wiggly misiles aimed at his Wiggly Head while heading for the Rail Station to leave Town to avoid the Tar & Feathering he deserved! The broken Bones of the stripped Pearson served faithfully as a Gate Prop after that, while the Parts became the start of my collection of Rare Spares for Sewing Machines. I no longer move Machines where others can help! This is a True Story only the description of the Guy as a Good Samaritan is a Lie as I can't swear on this Forum. Barra has a few tales to tell also I can assure you as I knew his Boss. Please have a good Week-end. Kindest Regards. Jim Saddler.

Hi Somawas Well Hilly was right about sewing Hair in then turning it. Your preparation is very important though. I haven't used Hair on for a few years, as it went out of fashion. Basically you should skive the edges of the 2 strips to be sewn to aprox half thickness or 1.25mm. Skive inabout twice the margin that you are stitching from the edge. Soften the Hide in water and rub Saddle soap into the moist Hide. allow it to mellow then sew both sides and across one end. Then take a piece of Curtain Rod (Wood) and push on the sewn up end to turns the Strap inside out. This is why the edges are skived so as to allow the Hide to be turned easier. when turned Hair out. Carefully fold the strap at the seams so that it will lay flat. Then rub out the Seams while they are damp, so they are flat. Let it dry then pour some Latex or PVA glue down the inside and clap it together while the Glue sets. Trim off the ends and use a Chape to secure each end to the Bag. Please remember that Hair on usually is Chrome Tanned hence the Saddle Soap being added to keep it moist longer Latex and PVA will mix with Saddle Soap usually. I hope this helps you. Kindest Regards. Jim Saddler.

It's a Bag Darner usually with a Popper Foot to enable darning holes or tears in Bags, Wool Packs and the like. Can be used carefully for patching Canvas and Horse Rugs. Kindest Regards. Jim Saddler

Hi Barra Kindest Regards Jim Saddler

Dear RustyD The best Stitchers that I have employed worked mechanically. In fact they sang all day in unison while sewing Harness Traces at 8 spi x 5/8" thick x 6"3" long, two rows. Every stitch was perfect, both back and front. I bought them the biggest Tape Player available to play music and it paid off with the results. Why I quote this is to emphasize that you are right, every stitch must be the same as the previous one. The best way is to get used to one Awl for each size of thread and be comfortable with it to the point that you forget to concentrate and it becomes like driving a Car, Natural reflexes for the job. I've never drilled holes as round holes are not good for sewing as the core of the Leather is removed. Punching has it's uses but again the Holes are bigger so the resulting Stitch has to be bigger. When using a good Awl and I want as near to perfect Stitching as possible, a good Pricking Iron that is sharpened to a point is used. The reasons being, it will come out of the Leather easily and the Awl will follow and enter the centre of the hole every time. Thus making as near to perfect a stitch as possible. I have 3 Irons in each of popular stitch sizes (8,10,12), a full Iron, 2 Teeth ground of and a half Iron. This allows for shorter and longer splices to be set-up easily by combining the Irons. Every tooth is pointed to a wide V which actually helps to bounce the iron out after driving it into the Leather, as well as putting the centre in the hole. I hope this helps some of you get the perfect slope back and front (refer to previous post on stitching) that looks so good. Someday I'll get to be able to download some photo's of the methods when I work out how to do it. Kindest Regards. Jim Saddler.

Hi Barra I actually used the measurements for years as a basic reference to be tuned up as required. There was not a lot of alteration needed as long as the Harness was for normal Horses. My copy was "borrowed" while I was sick. The pearson 6 was nine pounds Ten at that time and I actually brougnt one in the late 70's that had the original reciept for Nine Pounds Ten. (complete with all accessories). My copy included Donkey and Goat Harness. Kindest Regards. Jim Beaton.

Hi to all I've laid back and watched the battle go on about who has the best Machines. I've never met any of the Battlers as I live down-under, but I do know Ryan Neel as I sell his Cowboy Sewing Machines here in Australia. About 3 or 4 years ago I got a message from our Friend Bill. He asked me to sell his Machines here as they wanted Tradesmen who could give them Feedback on their Machines so that they could improve them to be the Worlds Best! Well for a start I asked for a couple of samples to knock around to see if they were any good. Soon 2 x 441's arrived and were assembled. One I sent to an old Mate of mine, Archie, with instructions to give it the works. I kept the other and fiddled with it. Sewed from Chaps to Heavy Harness on it and tried to break it. Well after a month or two we found a few small adjustments to be made and suggested that a bigger Hand Wheel would improve the Torque. The Feet were made from Steel and a bit of a problem to make I was told. So I suggested to Bill that Stainless Steel be used and also how to make them ( my Dad was a Moulder and passed on a bit to me). The advantage being that alterations to them could be made and polished and no Ferric (Metal) Stain be left on Damp Leather. Typically I alter Feet to suit special Jobs like Raised work or into corners. This makes it so easy being able to grind then polish and use the Feet. Well in quick order a Shipment arrived here with the Big Hand Wheels and the tweaking as suggested. From the start it was realized that, what was a good Machine to use had now become a Dream Machine to use! Suddenly there was a good sized grip to wind the Hand Wheel with if required. Slow speed torque was improved Dramatically, now real slow speed was an option. Well the Stainless Steel Feet and Needle Plates have been added, Servo Motors have been added ( the latest is fantastic), the Pedestal Bench also Sealed Bearing Speed reducer, Flat bench attachment and Roller Guide. Along with a host of unseen improvements and Tweaking undergone and now as a result we have the 441 changing to the CB4500. In Australia we call it the Master, as it is the Master of the Saddler & Harness Makers Shop. The one Machine that is needed to do most every task in Leather, Canvas, Webbing or Synthetics. Sewing from 1/16" to 3/4" easily and a bit more if you're careful. Funny thing is that although all of these improvements have been made and the Extra's added into the Deal, the price has been kept down. Instead of being inflated Cowboy has always directed that Quality and Customer Satisfaction is the important Target of the Company. Why was I asked to advise Cowboy? I guess it is my History and Experience as a Master Saddler & Harness Maker in the Bush and Islands. No Mechanics on call so I had to learn to do it myself. Later when I moved to Tonga and had a fair sized Work Shop (60 workers), this proved invaluable. I actually was able to help the other Manufacturers keep their Sewing Machines going as well as my own considerable numbers of Machines. Well you ask why the history Lesson? It is to show that there is something going on quietly that has done more than a little bit in the past few years to improve the Workhorses of the Trade, by the Trade, For the Trade, by Cowboy, Ryan Neel and a team of Advisers. I'm Semi Retired now and so can devote a bit of time to giving back to the Leather Trades a bit of what I have gained over the past nearly 50 years. Sure I make an odd Saddle or Set of Harness, also sell a few Machines for Cowboy. Why not? How many Young People have I been able to get started with a Top Shelf Machine at such an affordable Price and with all the Extra’s given in as part of the Deal. As well as Old Timers now happy they can afford such a Good Quality Machine. But I'll say this, I wish our Leather Crafts and Trades had these Machines 40 years ago(when they were $A12.000 & up), at the Prices they are now, with the same High Quality. Sewing out of the Box! Unheard of! Usually a few days to a week to Sew a Machine in was the norm. Doesn’t break Needles was the only complaint (Tongue in Cheek) I’ve ever had from a buyer, from amongst the large number of machines I’ve sold ( the customer was serious, he had an expensive opposition supplied Machine that went through several packets per week, It now gathers dust in the corner). Now that’s my two Bobs worth. In the US See Ryan Neel or Bob Kovar, In Australia or NZ contact Me (if I’m not Fishing) gsaddler@bigpond.com for what I call the “The Best Quality for Less”, backed up by Highly Experienced Tradesmen who love the Trade and love to help and share their wealth of Knowledge with you". You don't have to buy to get advice, it's there for the asking"! Kindest regards. Jim Saddler.

Use a bit of soft Leather to rub the wax off. First anchor the thread to a hook or spike on the Bench and hold the other end while you rub the Leather fast along the thread. this will stop the unraveling a bit. The problem is that you probably got Reverse twist thread which will naturally unravel as you stitch. Removing the Wax makes it worse. I hope this helps. Kind Regards. Jim.

hey Cory just looked at your stitching. It's up to scratch on the top just a bit of practice needed on the back. Light material are harder to get right though. As for a stitch groove forget it as it will force the stitch into a straight line with allowing it lay neatly. Awls are not complicated item! as long as they have a sharp penetrating point/blade. the body can be oval or a flattened diamond. For fine sewing I preffer an oval as then less leather is cut, so the stitching is stronger. I also use many different materials to make my Awl Blades from as long as it will not bend easily, snap or flex too much. Polish the body sharpen the point and away you go. Usualy cast a few cents or nothing, just 10 mins of time on the linisher and Buff. Bike Spokes, Silver Steel, old Awl blades, high tensile Fence wire, Stainless Steel Mig wire, even made an awl out of an old worn Pocket knife which was excellent as it folded away and I could carry it anywhere. As for the problem pulling the needle through with different threads. Your Awl should match the Needles, which should match the thread, especially when using ready made thread. for a 3 cord (equivelent) thread I would recomend a #3 needles but for a Hand made waxed end thread I use #5 or 6 egg eyed harness needles. The problem of the bulk at the needle eye means using an awl large enough to allow you to make a hole big enough to pull the needle and thread through with a bit of effort. Might I say that prctice is the only way to judge this as the more you do it the better your grip and pull will become so the hole can be smaller. I often have someone watching me sew efortlessly through Leather, sure enough the question comes up, "can I try that?" So they try and can't get the first needle pulled through let alone the back needle. The look on the face is enough, then the comment of " you've got very strong fingers". So keep going you'll only get better. I appologise for not using photo's to show you what I mean, I just can't work out how to get them loaded. Kindest Regards. Jim Saddler.

Do you throw your back stitch? Best sewing is done by throwing the back thread up and over the emerging Needle. This will give you the same slope as the front if you do it right. Most stitch by leaving the thread at the bottom which leaves a dull stitch that never looks as good as the face. By picking up the thread and throwing it over the needle it will form a simple knot in the Leather and give you the same slope, front and back. Someone asked about 12#(per inch) stitching. Fine well done stitching is the ultimate!! Please try it People. I see exhibitions of such and such and the raves about the beautiful stitching sometimes as coarse as 4# or 5#. It upsets me to see it as over here it is called a "Jacko Job" ( Jacko was a really rough worker years ago, allways in a hurry so he stitched very coarse and charged a Bob (one Shilling) a stitch). Actually I was taught to use 8# as normal, 10# as good and 12# as best and that was the norm throughout the Trade. I might add that we had some beautiful Leathers to work with then. Not like the Dry under worked Leathers we get to-day. I used to ask my Tanner to work the Cods Oil, Soap and Tallow in by Hand and it made for beautiful Leather to Sew ( lasted longer too). I am still trying to get a Demo DVD produced to help explain what I'm saying. Maybe now that I've started teaching Stock Saddle making I'll be able to find a Student who will be able to operate the Camera for a bit and edit the results. Enough for now, Please have a happy Day. Kindest Regards. Jim Saddler.

Hi BearMan you are getting better, careful on the corners though (the Dead Sailors) they are from a shaep blade dutting a bit too much. Can I make a comment please to all. Don't sharpen the body of the Awl Blade only the point should be sharpened. The Body has to be polished as it only spreads the Hole to accommodate the bulk of the Threads. My best Awl Blades have all been Hand Made by Me from all sorts of Materials and patience. Even so called Bad Blades can be transformed into good ones. High Tensile Bike Spokes are a good source. Just don't Blame your Awl Blade for not perfect Stitching, blame the lack of practice. By the way a new Blade will take time to wear in as the Leather is a natural Polisher and will polish it's way to being so easy to use. Kindest Regards. Jim Saddler.

Whay type pf Leather Point? are they Tri point as the look of your stitch does not show a Lay which LR will give and allow the stitch to sit right. From the picture the holes look round. Anchor the top Thread under the Foot to stop it pulling through when you start as this what causes the looping. Kimdest Regards. Jim Saddler.

Are you using Cloth point (round) Needles? If so switch to LW leather point as that appears to be the main problem. The other problem is leaving your thread ends slack when starting off. Easy answer is, PUT THE ENDS OF YOUR THREADS FIRMLY UNDER THE FOOT BEFORE YOU START OFF, so that the tension take-up Spring doesn't pull the tag end through and cause the looping (mess) underneath. Also shorten your stitch a fraction for neatness. The Leather Point Needles will give you a slope for your thread to lay in neatly and eliminate the tension inconsistancy (round holes allow the bottom loop to come to the surface). Kindest Regards. Jim Saddler.

Hi Art Rope (Cord) is quite good for a filler for raising as long as you have a good weight of backing and a light top to stretch over it. Braided cord is even better as it can be flattened into an oval and has no lay to interfere with the finish. I used to make a tri raised Noseband and Bridle Front using Hard Cord or Fishing line a bit less than 1/8" as stuffers it really caught the Judges eye, especially as I used Pigskin as the Top (cover) to match the Riders Show Saddle. Of course the proper way is to use a piece of scrap as a strip that is edged with a large Edge tool or Skirt Shave to shape it to fit nicely into the raise Your Work looks much better with the raising. It would be good to see more members of this Forum using some of the old methods to achieve some different products. Rounding / Rolled (Shoulder Holster Straps, Bridles, Harness, Dog Collars etc), Raised (Belts, Straps, Bridles, Harness, Bridles,Headstalls etc), Inlayed Raised (Headstall nosebands etc). Stuffed Safes (Pilches & Side Saddles), the list goes on. There is such a range of options it would take days to relate them. Kindest Regards. Jim Saddler.

That is correct for larger sizes a Filler or Belly is used. I've seen a number of wooden Rein rounders used that were home made and they seemed to work alright. They were made from 2 pieces of Hardwood clamped together, then the holes drilled through at the joins and countersunk. Then cleaned up with sandpaper and polished. Held to-gether with G Cramps they worked but were cumbersome. I prefer the Osborne as is works easier every time. Your reasoning probably because here in down-under, our generation (Barra a few others & I) had to do the whole trade (and do it properly) to survive and fortunately we had a lot of old serious Tradesmen around still to teach us. Now we are passing on this knowledge before it is lost. Kindest Regards. Jim Saddler. from Sunny Queensland.

Hi Aart Over Rope is not ideal as the rope is soft and it's hard to get much of a round on it especially when the Leather is split. I always use a Rounder like the type you've shown. It is not easy to explain how to do rounding but I'll attempt it for you. For the exercise we'll say the strap is 1'' wide x 4mm Bridle or Harness. For simple Rolled work mark a line with a Compass aprox 3/16" from each top Grain edge for the length that you want to round, you can use a Compass Race if you want to allow the stitches to be below the surface. Turn over the Strap and make 2 grooves 7/16" from Flesh side edge similar length to the outside mark or groove. Wet in luke warm water and mellow the leather for 20 minutes. I then fold the Strap down the centre so that it becomes a U Shape because of the 2 grooves inside. If the Leather is too stiff to fold I use a Smasher to rub it into shape. The Mark or Groove becomes the stitching line. Hold the Strap in Stitching Clams or Horse. A special Clam is used when doing a lot of Rolling, that has a special Jaw to hold the doubled strap while stitching. Start stitching making sure that the Stitching is into the Grooves or marks exactly each side. Sew at aprox 4 to 6 stitches per inch, pulling each stitch firmly into place so that the Leather is pulled firmly to-gether. When you finish Stitching, back stitch 2 stitches to lock the sewing. While the leather is still mellow (or damp it again) shave the raw edge to a rounded shape from stitch line to stitch line (avoid cutting the Stiches). Now it is ready for rounding. Pick a hole that is jsut a bit bigger then the Sewn Strap and place the Strap in it and clamp the top down. Pull the Strap through from one end to the other and you will get a rounding effect on the Strap. The move down a size tighter and pull from one end to the other smoothly this may be the right size to burnish the Rounding or you may have to go down another size to get a perfect round. Which ever is right use this to create a burnish, you may use a small amount of Lyddys Saddle Soap as a Lubricant if you want a good finish. This can be Dyed over also. Remove the Strap and it should be aprox 10mm in diameter, you should now rub out any marks with coarse cloth or Brown Paper. Then let it dry. Remember this is the basis of Rounding or Rolled work. You can use a filler (belly) in lighter Leather or cut a stitch Groove and sew in it so that the Stitches don't show in the finished product (best Rolled Harness is done like this). Sewing Buckles and Rings on is simply achieved by doubling the turnback into the centre of the Rounding. Allways use firm Curried (Bridle or Harness) Leather as you will get a better finish then. I hope this is some help to you, I've allways prefferred Rolled work for my Best Harness and Bridle Ware as it shows the Horse off to best effect and doesn't Chafe. Kindest Regards. Jim Saddler.

A quick tip for sharpening Plough Guages. Sharpen the inside (left) edge at a bit more angle than the outside which is sharpened nearly flat. It is like a light Chisel edge. This keeps the Blade full and stops the wander that you get with a Draw guage (which are not accurate enough for production work). Pull the Leather through with a backhand motion of the left hand. Take long strokes to get even Straps. Kindest Regards. Jim Saddler.

Hi all well I just couldn't sit without putting my bit on Stitching forward. Dremels are fantastic, but not for stitching. Templates are Ok but not if you want the best. There are only a couple of acceptable methods and they are are based on PRACTICE!!!! Contrary to popular belief the ultimate stitching is very fine, 12 per inch or finer and is done with an oval shaped Awl Blade which has a straight flat point and Oval shaped body. This Awl cuts the Leather then the Body stretches the Leather open to allow the Needles to be passed through. there is no room for the threads to do anything but lay in place neatly. The back thread is thrown over to create a SINGLE KNOT knot in the material and the thread pulled up firm completes the stitch. If done properly the Back will look as good as the Face side and have the same lay. The Knot will help to hold the stitch even when the Thread is worn on the surface. I add that the Needles should be much finer than the thread and the thread tapered to allow the Needles to be placed on the taper so they can be pulled through easily. (Hand made Waxed end Linen (Hemp) or Silk is by far the Best thread to use) But it all boils down to Practise Practise and more practise. I used to employ a team of stitchers who would be probably some of the best you could find. They Were all Tongans! their sewing ability came from their ability with their Hands to make fine Woven Mats. They adapted so quickly. Their secret? the ability to forget about the sewing and do it automatically while they sang! Do you get the Message? Practise until you get so used to Hand sewing that you forget about making mistakes. Your motion must be consistant and repetively identical and fast. If you go slow you will allways make mistakes, I still do if I concentrate. The slope of the stitch hole must be identical every time. The aids that I recomend are; Pricking Irons and Wheels (sharpened and Polished to a point). Judgement (from Practise). Awls should be sharp at the point only to make the first cut, then well polished to open up the cut. Elbow Grease to drive the Awl through smoothly. The best comment that can be made about Hand and Machine Sewing is Good Machine Sewing should look like it's been done by Hand. I was told this nearly 50 years ago by a Top Harness Maker and believe the message was correct. I've seen some really good Hand Sewing over the years and never seen a machine that could do better. The old Pearson A1 was the closest I've seen. Why? Because the Machine needle is allways bigger than the thread. I'll sign off as Jim Saddler so to not confuse the issue with the other Jim Kindest Regards. Jim Saddler.

Hi Janice no1 is a Binder set-up with Tube for edge binding with a Tape or Bias Binding, on things like Hand Bags, Saddle cloths and the like. Probably for a 31 K class singer as I used to have the identical set-up years ago. no2 are edge folders for Fabrics to turns the edge over to produce a neat sewn edge. no3 another type of Binder Shell for tapes to fold them as the sewing proceeds. Probably for Hand Bags also. Kindest Regards. Jim.

There is a RT side Foot, Needle plate & Feed dog for sewing up very close to Wire Rope and the like for the 45 K 25. Just leave a margin to sew on and trim it after sewing. The Roller Foot is on the wrong side (left) to get close on the rounded surface. I've also seen a setup on the Union Lockstitch to do it but it wasn't quite right. Kindest Regards. Jim.

I tend to think that the Lanolin should be avoided and a touch of olive olive oil used. Lanolin was used by Bootmakers for a while and disgarded it as it is too gummy. Melt the Resin (powdered) into melted Beeswax. Pour it into a bucket of water when combined. I've allways used room temperature. Then pull it out carefully and keep pulling it till its stretchy. hen break off knobs about the size of a Bantams Egg and roll the into a ball. Hey presto you have thread Wax. No oil in Summer, a bit of oil in winter in cold area's (don't need it here in Queensland though). When you use it rub it fast to heat the Thread and melt the Wax in. Kindest Regards. Jim.