jimsaddler

Hi HS yes using the light Locktite is the way to go. Your machine type has a few problems with screws coming loose so also use it on the Needlebar Clamp screws as I have had to retime a few of these because of loosened screws. Kindest Regards. Jim Saddler.

Hi Cath Welcome to LW I'm in Qld and always there for answers if you need them. Kindest Regards. Jim Saddler.

Hi all This is a problem with the Leather not the Machine. Certain types of Leather are stuffed with a Resin that appears as a red/brown crust on the needle when sewing multiple weights of Veg Leather. The first time it happened to me I was sewing approx 5/8" in substance. Sewed about 6 inches and the Leather lifted with the Needle. Tried going one stitch at a time after I cleaned the Needle with Machine Oil. Seemed ok so started going again with the same results. Well it took me an hour and 3 Needles to sew 30 inches, all the time cursing the Scum on the Needle. Changed Leather type, no problems sewed like a dream. Even sewed 3/4" no problems. Went back to the original Leather in 2 weights. Same problem again. Checked with other Saddlers, yep same problem with that Leather. I don't use that Brand any more! Although I have advised others to use a Lubricant Pot with Silicone lubricant in it and a larger Needle size which helps. I finished the Hide by using Mox .8mm Waxed Poly Braid for top and .6mm on the Bobbin. This worked reasonably well but not perfect. My Machine is a Cowboy 441. So my easy answer was to Change Tanners, which actually saved me money as the better Hides were 15% cheaper. I Hope this is of assistance. to you. Kindest Regards. Jim Saddler.

Hi Doug there is a 45K25 manual on one of the shoe makers sites. I've forgotten which one, but there are others on LW who will remember. Kindest Regards. Jim Saddler.

Just a few little comments here as to the differences. Cowboy was and is developed by Tradesmen not Dealers! Hence the accessories being standard. The Big 12" Hand wheel (Better Torque and Control) was the first thing I asked for when I became an adviser to Cowboy. The Stainless Steel Needle Plates and Feet were another development to stop the Ferric Stains, when Sewing on Damp Leather. Also excellent for building on for special jobs as the SS can easily be TIG Welded and polished again without the need for re-plating. I could go on more but won't, as it is not good to turn the Forum into a Wrestling Match. Ryan, Bob and Steve are all Friends of mine. All are there to give good advice, All offer very Good Service. Shop around and make your own mind up. One thing that I can say is I use Cowboy every day and am very proud of my Chinese Friends who Build them for Trades Peoples use at an affordable Price. They have listened to the advice given and acted on it quickly to improve their Machines usability at all the times. By the way the supplied Stirrup Plate is very good. I've just started using it, doing 1 1/2" round end gussets in the ends of Document Cases. Does it so nice and neat, no waste. Take the tension off the Feet by lifting the Collar approx 3/8"higher to compensate for the higher Bump of the Plate. Use the Supplied dble Toe Harness Feet with the Stirrup Plate and lay your Gusset under the Body of the work. Sew on low speed and it works very well after some practice. Same goes for the Holster Plate, just needs a bit of practice. It's Fun finding new Products that can be Sewn using the variety of supplied accessories with your Cowboy at no extra cost to the Buyer. Now I've said that. Can we go back to just enjoying the Forum as a Forum not a Sales pitch. Kindest Regards. Jim Saddler.

Simple answer is Use a Harness Foot set. Short toe and Heel DONT SEW ACROSS THE LEATHER as it does create a Zipper. Two ways to sew up to buckles. 1. Reverse using the Harness (short toe & heel) Foot, Say this is a Bridle Cheek, start a few stitched out from the buckle and sew as close as you can to the Buckle (in the stitch line), then reverse back along the line till you are clear of the buckle and able to turn the work arround 180 degrees, then continue to sew to the other end of the Cheek as far as you can and reverse back to lock the stitches. Lift the needle to the top of the stroke and move to the other side of the work and repeat the original process back to the Buckle finishing off in reverse again. Snip off the little thread that crosses the body of the work, Done properly it should appear like Hand sewing, but a bit looser on the Buckle end. 2. Use a Holster or Stirrup Plate and sew one stitch at a time up to the Buckle sideways and back into the clear then sew normally, Not as neat but gets closer to the Buckle. Hope this helps. Kindest Regards. Jim Saddler.

Hi Roo quick answer is yes, for lighter stuff. Like Handbags, Binding and the like. If the price is right, they usually sell for over $1200. here. Ring me about the Needle problem and I'll run you through it. Kindest Regards. Jim Saddler.

Hi I too have terrible Back problems causing me no end of trouble maintaining posture. 2 solutions have come along. The first is a tablet called Clonac 50, One in the morning allows me 7 hours of Back pain relief. The second is a Spring type Chair (Stool height) with Leather back support and Arms. This has allowed me the support for my back when Hand Sewing that allows me to sew for 90 minutes or more in the same position. Chair cost me $10. at a Welfare store, does a far better job than the $700. special Prescription Support Chair I was using for 20 minutes at a time. It's a 1 1/4" Tubular Steel frame like an "S", The back is stretched between the back uprights. The seat is also stretched between the frame. Works jus fine with my Saddlers Clams that I'd given up on some time ago. My work has improved measurably, thanks to my 2 "Aids" Yes I'm now able to sew #12 again and get it right on the back, looking like the front. So please persevere and practice and practice and practice, then when you've finished practicing, do some more practice! Fine Hand Sewing is "the Mark of a Craftsman". I actually get a bit annoyed when I see some hand Sewing at Shows #5 and #6 spi getting prizes, when a lovelly fine sewn article is passed over. One Judge had the temerity to say " that #5 was "lovely and chunky". The Noseband sewn at #11spi was passed over with no Prize. My comment was who called you a Judge? Kindest Regards. Jim Saddler.

Hi Simply put, "all you need is practise" #12 requires that you use a finer Awl Blade and the right slope so as to keep strength in the stitching. The neatness comes with the way that you throw your back stitch under or over the needle. It you throw the loop over the needle it will give you a stitch similar to the Face of your stitching on the back. If you drop the back stitch loop (as most do) you will get a most uninteresting result. Repetition is the key, when you start to sew automatically (and throw the back loop) you will achieve a better result. For BEST stitching #12 looks very neat front and back. A well sharpened Pricking Iron will be a better quide than the wheel though. Kindest Regards. Jim Saddler.

Hi Al There is a difference in the two Machines. Price. The 441 is less complicated than the 205 Clone. I use both in my workshop as a comparison. the 205 is a nicer looking Machine but it will not do as many tasks as the 441. The Head is too bulky to get close to a lot of Aussie Jobs. Where the 441 is able to get up close to Knee Pads and Bulky items. Plus there are more attachments come with the 441s. That said experienced 205 operators who have used the Cowboy 205 have remarked that they can not pick and difference between the original and the Clone. The 441 clone is more user friendly if things go wrong also as the Timing is easier to set (over the phone to a user with a little Mechanical knowledge) in the event of a problem. The 205 needs to return to base. These things aside it comes down to bang for buck. 441 is cheaper and does more with the long Arm as standard. Kindest Regards. Jim Saddler.

Hi Les I can appreciate what you are saying. Can I please point out a couple of point though. When closing out Machine sewing it is a good idea to sew in the same Reverse twist as the Machines for neatness. I did the same until I came into the age of the 441 with reverse which will sew my ends and reverse lock them. I even have the reverse pricking Irons to mark the reverse stitch rows to match the Machine sewing. Like you I like the way that good waxed end stitching will last for ever even if the back and front wear off. Reason being that the stitch is thrown , thus creating a twist inside the Awl hole like a screw and the Wax / resin / pitch bonds to the Leather like concrete. Yes the old boys did through the back loop back as far as I can trace in England, Scotland and Australia. I used to have Fine Carriage Harness that was made in the very early 1800's in London for a Maharajah. Well worn but holding up exceptionally well for its age. I unpicked a section and low and behold it was the same Twist as I use to-day. The Thread was was White waxed Silk! (not used to-day as the white was achieved by using White Lead in the Wax. A toxic mixture, we now realize why the Pro Stitcher's died young and Bald. I repaired Sulky Traces that my Great Grandfather made in 1927. To unpick the Linen stitching was was very hard to do as the thread was bonded to the Leather. The set of Harness had been regularly used at least weekly over the years. I still use the same Beeswax / Resin mixture as he did and I have Harness I made near 50 years ago still going strong and winning in the Show ring. So as far as synthetics go it will take me another 30 or 40 years to make up my mind if they are any good or not. I have to disagree about the Z & S twist though. only lefties should use Z twist as a right handed sewer will definitely cause unraveling, over a distance it causes the appearance to become straight instead of maintaining the Twisted lay appearance. To the casual observer it is not apparent, but for those who have long experience it is very obvious. To-day who cares? The standards have dropped. It's a throw away world they say! That is the problem we should all care and restore the Pride of our Forefathers who really cared about what they produced. Sorry I am not being critical, My thing is History of the Saddle and Harness Trades and I have always admired the beautiful Hand Stitching practiced in the British Isles. The slope is what makes it what it is. I've had visits from some of the Wallsal Hand Sewing Families over the years when I was in Tonga. One Family who spent a week with us. consisted of Granny, Mum and 3 Daughters plus little Brother. Their Family could not remember any ancestors who weren't Contract Hand sewers. All threw the Back stitch. Even when doing single needle. I might add that I have seen one Family Business here in Australia who never threw the Back Stitch. When it came to a National Product Competition, some 20 years ago, my Stitching won me the prize the (British) Judge explained. Yes every Thread was Hand Made on the Thigh. Kindest Regards. Jim Saddler. From Australia.

Good on you I figured you'd won it when I saw it go off. It will do what you want plus a lot more. One sugestion is to slow it by moving the Drive Belt down to the smaller pulley to gear it down. Or a smaller pulley on the Motor. This will make it easier for you to use. By the way it was a pleasure to be able to help you, that is what LW is about. Kindest Regards. Jim Saddler.

Hi JDH Some time ago I wrote that I was experimenting with Braided Threads for Hand Sewing. Well I feel confident enough now to say that it is very useful for Hand Sewing. Also it overcomes the problem caused by S or Z twist. First a comment on the availability of "S" Twist or Right hand twist. There was a Barbours S twist made for Chain Stitch Machines, but I've not seen that for years. Also there was a Silo fine Thread made for fine Hand Sewing, Also extinct. That was not a worry as most good Saddlers made their Threads on the Knee to suit the job in hand. Now comes the worry of getting decent Linen Hemp in #15. The Dealers only carry #12 or Common, which are both too coarse for fine Threads. Your are nearly right about the throwing the "back Stitch" If it is not thrown the stitch will not look good in either S or Z just lay in a line and look very ordinary. But there is always the unravel effect on the Z twist that has to happen. I'm not going to start an argument about who's right, because Stolman does it the one way and do it another. Lets just say that when it comes down to the equality of Expertise being the same, the one who throws the back stitch will always win as the better Stitcher over the flat sewer. Now we come to the Braided Thread issue. Braid doesn't care about S or Z twist. I've been using several types in my work for a while now. and the result is quite acceptable. In fact in some cases is better. for example it doesn't get so dirty when sewing long runs, you only require a very short tab through the Needle Eye as it won't strip out when you pull the needle through the work. (when joining the needle to the Thread, 1" is enough). I have some beautiful Ritza Braid in 6mm, .8mm & 1.0mm. which is round in profile and lays in beautifully front and back like the old Silko used to. I am using this for my Fine sewing where the Best finish is required. 0.6mm White looks exceptional when used at #12 spi on Show Bridles and Head stalls. Also it goes very well through my CB 441 to match up at #10spi. for Show Harness. It is Stabilised, lightly Waxed and Siliconised Polyester. Then there is the MOX Waxed Braid I am using for general work in the same sizes. It works well also but lays flat in the Stitch, which makes the Stitch look coarser. The only drawback with these Threads is having to use 1 or 2 sizes larger Needle to ease the thread through the Awl hole. Also needing a fraction heavier Awl Blade to cope. Lasting ability I am yet to find out so as to compare them to Linen? I'll let you know in 40 or so years the results. Down-side on the Ritza, is harder to thread in the 0.8 and 1.0mm. as it's very hard laid. But persevere and with practice you'll get the hang of it. Up-side is Neater stitching especially if "you throw the Back Loop"! Knotting off at the ends is probably best done with an extra back stitch as the thread is a bit slippery, same goes for starting. None of mine has come undone as a result. Well I'd better get off and let someone else have their say now. By the way nothing beats a good Waxed End in #15 patent Hemp for Hand Sewing. It's easier to use with finer Needles and Awls. Kindest Regards. Jim Saddler.

Hi Al you just asked the right question. I've been Making my own Spanners from Metal Tube and forming them with Heat, a vice, Hammer and Curses for years. All have disapeared to friends borrowing, now I have one left (I hope). I regularly get asked for Square headed Screws and the Spanners to fit them. Now you've asked the right question and got the right answers. I'll be after them also. Kindest Regards. Jim Saddler.

Hi All I now have the 4 main instruction pages from the Pilot Manual the full copy is yet to arrive but should do next week. Email me and Ill forward what I have. By the way the manuals reputedly were only issued to BUSMC Head offices it seems hence the lack of availability. That way owners had to get the Company to affect repairs. Singer had a similar practice on some models (132K6 for instance). I also got one of these but mislaid it. Kindest Regards. Jim Saddler.

That is the same Resin. Use the light and crush it. Kind Regards.

Hi Badger I know where there is one and I keep reminding the owner I want a copy. When I get it I'll let you know. Beaut Brutes aren't they. I've got mine running but want the Manual to tweak it. Kindest Regards. Jim Saddler.

Hi Al I'll back-up what the others say about how the Machines are checked out and gone over when they arrive from China. As you know I'm in Australia and been a Saddler & Harness Maker for a long time. Over those years I've brought a great number of Heavy Industrial Sewing Machines for my Workshops and those I've helped establish. Might I say the virtually every Machine had to be tuned up. Oh yes Singer were the worst. Always a few days were involved in tune ups and getting broken parts replaced. Adler was better a few hours was normal but sometimes a lot more. Seiko 4 or 5 hours per Machine and the occasional Part needed. a Pro 2000 (Air freighted from US) took more than 4 days to get the problems sorted out and sewing for my Friend. The Cowboy 441 usually sews out of the box. If the others are similar they should be the same. But I still go over them in case of problem. What I am saying is that the Chinese Reputable Clones are a step above the Old names as far as out of the Box is concerned. That said though some Dealers just sell Machines on high profitability alone. I worked on one to-day. Odd size Studs and Screws Different to the original Juki 441. Looks like any other except for the Rough Paint work But doesn't tune up like the Good Clones. Took over 6 hours and different Tools to do a simple tune-up. Its a far cry from the quality of the Good Clones Artisan, Cobra, Cowboy and Ferdco. These have been developed properly for the Leather Worker, Saddler and Harness Maker. How do I know? I am one of the number of Tradesman advisers who put the sujestions in as to how to improve them. This advice has been based on Hands on experience of what the Trade wants. That is " a Machine that will perform every day with no major problems and will perform every job efficiently". Note how the Fly Wheels are now Bigger (more torque and better Hand control)? My request to improve on the Little ones that were used and nipping Fingers. Stainless Feet and Needle Plates, these don't leave Black stains on Damp Leather (Ferric Stains) like the Steel ones. Vari Speed Servo Motors mounted at the front for ease of use of the Speed adjustment. The list is endless. I am proud of my association with my Chinese Engineer Friends who asked so many questions to me (several times per week) over the past years. Because they took notice of every little point. Singer, Adler and the like didn't when asked ( Not possible the Accounts Manager always said). All they did was push up prices till they were unaffordable (last price I got from Adler for a 205 15 years ago was over $14.000 plus extra's) . So I switched to Seiko, Nice Machines, but if I wanted Changes I needed to order Big numbers. Along comes Bill! Please you tell me what Saddler & Harness Maker wants, I Make it. He did this for small numbers and we improved sales based on the improvements. Now we have access to far better quality Machines at far better prices. A lot of this has been achieved via Leatherworker.net. and the discussions here. Here in Australia we have young People getting a good start with an affordable Machine that will do all of their work. Previously they had to buy worn out second hand Machines at highly inflated prices and struggle to learn to repair them (if at all) so they gave up in disgust. Sorry to go on like this Al. I'm not a Dealer in Australia. I'm a Saddler & Harness Maker who proudly Distributes Cowboy Industrial Sewing Machines and is always there for the Phone or Email to sort out the requests for advice as you know. By the way I got an old Pearson A1 with original Transfers in-tact (my old Bosses). Also a USMC Pilot and a Singer 97-10. These will keep me out of mischief for a while. Age is hurting so I only make Harness now in my spare time. Oh and join people up with New Machines that they need. This is not a Sales pitch. It my opinion based on observance of some considerable length of time. Please Guys no more cutting throats and prices as you all have to make a living. The Leather Industry will suffer if we have to return to the days of Limited Knowledge Dealers and highly inflated Prices of pre the Good guys here on LW helping with good sound advice. Kindest Regards. Jim Saddler. Childers. Australia.

Position of the Roller is critical! For splitting to light weights it should be fractionally behind to top dead centre. Sharpening must be done with a flat Knife board with 2 sides. Coarse and Fine ( Rouge is good) or use Valve Grinding Paste worked into a 3 mm piece of Flesh side Veg, glued onto a 3" X 3/4" X 18 to 20 " board with a handle cut into one end. Keep the Board at a low angle when sharpening and spread the strokes from side to side evenly across the Blade. If there is too much Shoulder on the Blade. Take it to a Tool Sharpener to grind it off to save a lot of time (hours) grinding it off. I cheat sometimes and do a quick Buff on the Calico Buff wheel but no more than twice or you'll get too much Shoulder to sharpen off. If its a 6" splitter you can split 5" carefully down to .4MM by gradually taking it off in small amounts at a time. Remember that the Blade must be perfectly straight in relation to the Roller, same gap each side. Patience is the name of the game when sharpening the Blade. Don't cheat when it's taking forever to get the shoulder off, by changing the angle to finish quicker. Do it properly once and it's right for years. Cheat and you'll only get Scraps because of the need for Elephants to pull the Leather through. If it's done right it will take very little effort. I Hope this helps you. As I seldom have to worry because of the 2 days I put into getting the Blade right a few years ago. Use the same Knife Board for your Round and Straight Knives also. My Board is always by my right hand on the Leg of the Bench for quick access and use. Kindest Regards. Jim Saddler.

Simple answer. CB has Bigger flywheel more torque. Stainless Steel Feet and Plates no stain on damp leather. Kindest Regards. Jim Saddler.

Hi Al Simple answer is: it depends on the reducer? I drtve the 441s and the 205 with as little as 400 watts easily with a 6" reducer and 1 1/2" Pulley on the Servo Motor. I might add that the large 12" Flywheel on the Cowboys make this very easy to do. Others have a Smaller Fly Wheel so seem to need more Grunt to penetrate Heavier Leathers. Lately I have been using the 550 Watt Servo adjustable Speed Motors at very low speeds (500 revs) with the 6" reducers and the results have been very good. As slow as 1 Stitch in 3 seconds, pushing through 3/4" of Harness Leather without effort and that is slow Power and accuracy. Motors have gone ahead in leaps and bounds in the last few years. So it is hard to keep up with the new trends, but I keep trying and get pleasant surprises always. Actually by mounting the Motor in front near your Knee it is easy to switch the speed up or down while stitching. So it is nearly as good as my old Singer Back pedal Treadle Stand to use for control of stitching. Please have a Good Day. Kindest Regards. Jim Saddler.

Hi Ray When I was very young these stamps were all we had. I recently purchased several on Ebay just to remind me. Saddlers here used to think nothing of getting their Wives to Stamp Saddle Flaps (cut from Cheap Shoulders) with concentric patterns they were designed for. This firmed up the Leather and surprisingly, these "pretty" Saddles sometimes outlasted expensive ones. Labour was cheap then! We also made Stamps from old Bolts, using Files to make designs in many shapes. As Labour got dearer, this disapeared. Kindest Regards. Jim Saddler.