leather grain and my twist problem

[heavyleathernyc]

I make guitar straps and I just got in a large hide of 5 oz veg tan. I've been cutting it out and backing it with suede, then sewing the 2 pieces together. The leather twists after sewn and won't lie flat. Is this due to bad sewing tension, bad suede application or is there a grain in the leather that I need to work with? I am used to working with the petite tooling calf leather, which is much thinner. Can anyone help me out? Thanks!!!!

-R

[Leather Bum]

I would be interested to hear some other views on this, too.

I really don't know what would cause that problem. To my thinking (heh ), you might be right about the grain suggestion as I've noticed some leather will stretch better in one direction over another.

Or perhaps the way the leathers are glued together could cause this. . .??

L'Bum

[Jim]

Yup, it's a tension problem. Now, with that being said, I am no expert with a leather sewing machine (mostly because I've never used one.) But, having sewn a gun belt or two by hand, I quickly realized that by pulling the stitches tight the leather tended to twist and bow. So, I started pulling the stitches just tight enough to hold the seam and the problem solved its self.

So, having used a regular sewing machine to make my own periodicly correct duds, I know that too tight a tension on the thread will pull a seam into a knot, figuratively speaking. So, I figure that you will need to play with the tension on your machine untill you get the desired results.

Hope this helps.

[jimsaddler]

Yup, it's a tension problem. Now, with that being said, I am no expert with a leather sewing machine (mostly because I've never used one.) But, having sewn a gun belt or two by hand, I quickly realized that by pulling the stitches tight the leather tended to twist and bow. So, I started pulling the stitches just tight enough to hold the seam and the problem solved its self.

So, having used a regular sewing machine to make my own periodicly correct duds, I know that too tight a tension on the thread will pull a seam into a knot, figuratively speaking. So, I figure that you will need to play with the tension on your machine untill you get the desired results.

Hope this helps.

Answer is simple, If you want it to lay flat sew both edges from the same direction. The same with Glueing, fold from the one end or you'll get a twist. Same with lining lay from the same end, don't go round or you get a twist.

Light Leathers are the worst. So take any tension out before you sew. Even if you use a Scrubbing Brush to wipe the back of the job in one direction and then Sew the same way .

Kindest regards.

Jim.

[Saddlebag]

Same thing happens when sewing a zipper-gotta start at the same end on both sides.

[Jimbob]

I make guitar straps and I just got in a large hide of 5 oz veg tan. I've been cutting it out and backing it with suede, then sewing the 2 pieces together. The leather twists after sewn and won't lie flat. Is this due to bad sewing tension, bad suede application or is there a grain in the leather that I need to work with? I am used to working with the petite tooling calf leather, which is much thinner. Can anyone help me out? Thanks!!!!

-R

All well said, if you glue it right, flaten it out, use a soft edge scraper and scrape it down, let it dry u have a perfect flat suface ( especially when using veg tanned leather...)

Sewing is just as been said, not to much tension, cut a light channel, start from same side both ways and u be fine...dont force it, let it go its natural way>>>>

JimBob