juki 563

[steve mason]

Howdy;

I have a line on a juki 563 machine, don't know much about the machine, wondering if anyone has used one or knows anything the machine. I would like it for a chap machine. they are asking $1400

steve

[Art]

Hi Steve,

Right machine, wrong price. In drop dead gorgeous condition, table, stand, motor, not used heavily $800, head only $400-$500-$600 in good condition. Needle feed, walking foot, big bobbin, I've seen a bunch of them in trim shops and canvas shops. Sew it off, check for wear, if you see wear on the outside, there's going to be wear on the inside, that doesn't rule the machine out, it just cuts the price some, they have a bottom end like a Toyota. I've seen ones with darned near half the paint worn off that still stroke along, and they'll go 1000spm without breathing hard.

Art

Howdy;

I have a line on a juki 563 machine, don't know much about the machine, wondering if anyone has used one or knows anything the machine. I would like it for a chap machine. they are asking $1400

steve

[pmreed]

I noticed this thread has been quiet for some time, but I need some expertise.

I have been sewing with a Juki 563 for a couple of months, now. I'm sewing totes made out of waxed cotton, with bridle leather bottoms.

When the machine is sewing well, it cruises. It just seems to automatically go out of whack - the timing and more frequently, the thread tension.

I have been through the manual many times, taken the tensioner apart and cleaned it, but the upper thread tensioner seems to have a mind of its own.

Changing a broken needle and realigning the needle, on this machine also tends to be a real time consuming event.

I hate to blame the machine and not accept an element of operator error, but does anyone have any experiences with this machine and maybe be able to shed some light on these temperamental issues?

Hope my description isn't too vague.

Thank you!

-Peter

[Big Sioux Saddlery]

I've sewn light stuff on my LU563 for years and it is probably my most temperamental machine out of the 4 in regular use. I used to take it in once a year to have it cleaned and tuned, but my mechanic passed away a few years ago, so haven't had it in since then. I don't really have any good advice for you, but like most machines, needle/thread combination is critical, and keep it well oiled--it will run better. Also, pull your thread entirely out of the machine every once in awhile. unless it's on a rack that actually unrolls the thread off the spool like a roll of toilet paper, it will get twists and kinks in it after sewing for awhile. This will make a difference to nearly all machines that I've used, some more than others. I had a Randall that absolutely wouldn't sew after the thread got to a certain point of "kinkiness", for lack of a better word, and it didn't take all that long. Also, seems like my Juki likes to run fast; it is more likely to throw a tantrum if I'm poking along. This makes it NOT an ideal machine for small items. Not much help, I'm afraid, but simple things that are often overlooked.

[SARK9]

I have 2 LU-563's and a Chandler CU-563 rebadge. My sewing for the moment is limited to multiple layers of webbing and crossing thick 1000D Cordura seams, so its not *exactly* like sewing leather. I don't find these machines any more "temperamental" than my 206RB5 save for the bother (and good practice) of holding the needle thread tail for a couple of stitches when beginning. I have servos and speed reducers on ALL these machines and I CRAWL them around a good bit of the time, but go wide open on bigger expanses.

There are several things that should be "tuned" on these or any other machine, and if you were able to download the JUKI manual generously made available by Greg of Keystone Sewing, it has the complete procedures outlined for a DIY type.

Some easy things to check for are any tiny wear grooves or pitting in either face of your tension discs, the spread of the split tension stud and its ability to hold the setting of the knurled knob, the correct horizontal orientation of the "three hole thread eyelet", and whether you always get the "snap" when you route the thread through the lower thread control discs, and whether the needle is inserted all the way and has the scarf aimed exactly at the machine's sweet spot :-)

Adjustments to carefully check are the walking foot timing, lift and foot pressure, the max lift of the feed dogs, the timing and "force" of the take-up spring, the VERY important correct needle bar height, the distance of hook point to the needle *you commonly use*, the needle guard adjustment, and the actual timing of the hook. My machines were all acquired used and all had a couple of things totally wrong. After adjusting the common gotchas, these machines now seem pretty forgiving no matter what.

Lube everything religiously with the best quality products.

I run everything from T45 nylon to T210 poly through mine with no bother other than to test the settings on a sample and go.

-DC

[pmreed]

Thank you both for your responses.

I'll keep sewin', keep readin' the manual, and see if I can find a good sewing machine mechanic within 100 miles.

-Peter