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About SARK9

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  1. Heck. I was looking for ways to shrink it down and forgot its the commonly available PARTS LIST. Sorry!
  2. Sorry- I have it as a pdf file that is 2.7 megs....was looking at options share it and got side tracked while looking for workarounds. -DC
  3. I think I do, I'll dig thru a couple of drawers tomorrow- DC
  4. Yeah, and if you still want to proceed, note that the conversion in the video changed the "G" bobbin to the much larger "U" bobbin rather than the "M" style. In for a penny, in for a pound. -DC
  5. I am currently still using 4 brushless motors that came with an optical speed controller, and I did a slightly altered mod to them all several years ago. None have failed and all are still running perfectly. I found the gradient method a bit too inconsistant as it advanced to control the light source, and substituted a strip of completely opaque black plastic strip cut at a radius which uniformly rotated into the light beam as it moved. Most of the inexpensive brushless motors are using hall effect sensors these days, but I think I still prefer the modified optical myself. I don't have any idea if there even *are* any contemporary brushless servo suppliers still using the optical control shown in that video. -DC
  6. Check the Seiko SK-2B-1, the one pictured looks like a close copy. I have the SK-6 (bottom feed only) and the SK-6F model is a jump foot like the 132K6. DC
  7. I've had/have several "real" Juki LU-563s and an older Chandler badged "CU-563" which as far as I could tell, was identical to the Juki machines. I also have a Chandler badged 562 which is printed "Made in Japan" under the badge, rather than stamped ON the badge, as is seen on my Jukis. The quality of these older chandler marked machines was on par with my genuine Juki products as far as I could tell. The Chandler "562" shows 200R on the badge, and could possibly be a rebadged Consew 226R for all I know, rather than a Juki, except I don't see SEIKO cast on the underside of the bed as I think was done on most of the early Consew contract machines. The Chandler badge might ding the resale a bit, and that was the only downside I saw, as they are fine users, and the 563 actually had the BA0 hook assembly installed, though who knows if it was original to the build. I never felt handicapped in the slightest with any of them. -DC
  8. "Soooo 3/8 is a tad too big. I am now left with the idea of tapping the hole with a 3/8 tap. Any thoughts?" The size of the "tap drill" hole is the part to look at. If the 5/16 bolt is too small, but the 3/8 is "a tad too big", check out this size for a possible match. 3/8-24 NF Drill size Ltr.Q (21/64") (.3320) Remember the hole size recommendations are targeted for an average 75% thread engagement and there is a bit of leeway on this fit for practical work that doesn't need to go through 3 levels of inspection and certifications to get paid. -DC
  9. If you are familiar with the FB group *Vintage Industrial Long Arm Sewing Machines* there is currently one complete assembly for this family of machines being offered- -DC
  10. The LG-158 or LG-158-1 parts all look very similar...I bought several parts for the take-up assembly for mine from SewingPartsOnline-- -DC Juki_LG158_Thrd&WinderComp.pdf
  11. One further **off-topic** observation RE: Singer 20U needles: My made-in-Japan "brown" 20U33 WILL accept a couple of brands of HAX1 or 15X1 needles ( with the flats) although it does fit the needlebar hole very closely. They can be oriented to have the scarf face the rear and clamped without issue. My rough measurements of the shanks on the brands I have on hand show that the shank diameters of the "home sewing machine brands" of 15X1 needles average around 0.002" larger than the DPX5/134R/135X5/1955 needles I normally use in the 20U. The needle length and locations of the eye & scarf seem to be nearly identical and my machine sews a wide zigzag stitch using the domestic needles shown. Its possible that those "twin" needles may have an attachment shank diameter that will be within a (-).002 tolerance and fit a stock 20U needle bar, though I have none on hand to try. -DC
  12. The "out of stock" part you picture appears to be an adapter that replaces the stock clamp on the end of your existing needle bar. The picture of a double needle "in use" could be one of these of some flavor- https://www.sewingpartsonline.com/denim-jeans-twin-needle-schmetz-1.aspx?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIscmIztOt-gIVvxbUAR3lDgaZEAQYAyABEgIxwfD_BwE It does seem to use the stock 20U clamp, as these would (if they fit properly). -DC
  13. The 111w152-155 were all pretty similar....if it matters, you can probably narrow down the model from the max stitch length & foot lift. -DC
  14. Have a look at: About 3:12 for a couple of things to check. At the point in the cycle where the presser foot should be holding the material down, try to wiggle it from side to side to check the hold down force. Also test when the presser foot lifts to see if the walking foot is pressing the material to the feed dog firmly, and its moving in unison with the needle & feed dog. You may need to reset the heights & timing as is shown in the video to accommodate non-OEM feet and different materials. -DC
  15. With many of the **import** presser feet I've purchased, the installed length of the foot assembly can be wildly variable, and your foot motions may be totally wrong in terms of the presser foot's lift timing and height, as well as the walking foot's actual usable loading of the work against the feed dogs for transport. This is usually a trivial adjustment on the Singer 111w** type machines, but I have no firsthand on the 'Adlers. There are several Adler owners that will know if that adjustment is similar to the Singer/Juki/Consew walking foot mechanisms, and if so, its well documented on member Uwe Grosses' excellent videos. -DC
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