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About SARK9

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    Searches on industrial sewing machines

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  1. On the subject of aftermarket parts with wild variations in tolerances, the underside of the needleplate, where the groove which prevents the bobbin case from rotating is located, also deserves a look. I've had to increase the width slightly and ease/reshape sharp edges to allow the thread to pass smoothly without random binding or erratic tension. Also, if your hook timing is slightly retarded, you may get a momentary high tension on the needle thread as it slides across the top going around the bobbin case. This might tend to allow the thread to pop into that groove over the bobbin tension spring and wreck things. Slightly too much hook advance is less risky, within reason, and worth a try if you hear "snapping" noises as the stitches form. As far as the cheap and variable aftermarket bobbins leaving too much gap, I submit that the "sideless" prewound bobbins leave one hell of a gap as they are unwound and used up without issue in many commercial applications. I personally only use them with certain common colors in *G* style bobbins on a Singer 111W152 which is dedicated as a binding machine, so who knows. The sideless bobbins are very uniformly wound and hold a bit more thread. As far as the anti-backlash spring goes, the speeds most often used for meticulous stitching are so slow that I have to wonder if it is another solution for which no problem exists, but they are cheap, so *whatever*. As we used to say in the shooting sports, if you think it helps, it helps. -DC
  2. SARK9


    The presser foot situation for this style of machine is pretty grim....I went through something similar looking for a foot selection to fit my Seiko SK-6 not long ago. There are several machines reported to use the same foot style found on the 45K*....with a selection for the jump foot and the drop feed, which do not interchange. Mine is a simple drop feed, so that is all I really looked at. I saw the "plain foot" and found it useless for my application, as none of the available feet I ever found were able to be used with an edge guide very close to the needle. I believe that commonly seen ebay foot was made for a "GA5-1" type of 45Kish asian generic knock off, and supposedly fits the drop-feed 45K and Singer 132K6 type machines. I "heard" the Adler 105 stuff interchanges to some degree, but I have none here to verify that. I tried to find a wheel presser that would fit the 132K6/SK-6, but couldn't run a source down to the point of actually buying it, owing to the horrific translations and naming conventions on the popular "Asian" web sites. I ended up buying one from a well known dealer stateside, and received the single worst piece of overpriced Chinese rubbish I have ever held in my hand to date. Lesson learned. I resorted to just making my own feet, as I have with several other sewing-related items. I HAVE bought some decent quality hinged split-toe feet for the SK-6 from random suppliers off alibabba, they are drop-feed only, but aren't much lower in quality than the original Seiko foot which came with my machine. I'm working on a wheel presser as time allows. Current selection pictured below: -DC
  3. SARK9

    Help with a Juki 562

    The bed slide plates have a right and left design. The RH plate has a relieved area on its underside to allow clearance for the thread to pass over the bobbin assembly. See if the other plate has this relief on the underside, and swap them if so. Closer inspection shows you DO have the correct RH plate. Sorry. You'll need to check the assembly of the hook to bobbin basket group of components to make sure they are assembled correctly. -DC
  4. The decimal inch, divided into a million parts, was so simple before the political expedience of the metric overlords. No really, decimal is decimal. This is the penalty we all must endure as a concession for preferring Greenwich for the location of the Prime Meridian. The real fun begins when we start trying to get us peasants to relate to SI time, and reveal the rubbish one must endure when attempting to name these new *units of time* something which can successfully describe a naturally variable seasonal cycle. 10 month year vs. lunar cycle, etc. Nature is so inconvenient. I find myself armed with the numbers .03937 and 25.4 in the calculator memory and go on down the road. *ON TOPIC NOTE:* The Consew motors have a shaft diameter of 15mm., or 0.59055", which 19/32nds (0.59375")approximates for all practical sewing needs. Pedants can take full advantage of the "decimal sized" reamers offered by most industrial supply houses. I make all my own pulleys to suit, and lathe bore them with miniature boring bars. Concentricity, you know. -DC
  5. SARK9

    Singer 211G155 Help

    Sorry if it has been mentioned, but this style of machine (with the vertical axis bobbin) pretty much requires that you hold on to the thread tails when you begin stitching for two or three stitches. Just hold back on the loose threads as you begin, and see if that helps with the bobbin tangles. -DC
  6. SARK9

    New to me Consew

    I've bought 2 of them in the last 18 mos or so. I'll have to check the receipts to see which was the Consew, and which was the generic "Rex". I know you do NOT want the one character display version. I surfed around until I saw the picture of what was being offered, taking note of the display. -DC
  7. SARK9

    New to me Consew

    First, congrats on the 206RB-4 deal, that is a nice looking machine. To add a dissonant note, on the subject of "push button" servos, I must say that I have used nothing BUT the Consew servers for a number of years. These "push-button" servos all seem to be "branded" to suit and essentially made under the same roof, as far as appearance goes. The Consew branded servo has undergone quite an evolution since I got my first one, with enough minor AND major changes to merit a revision number, yet all of the later models are still called "CSM-1000". Here is a quick snapshot of the variations that I personally have bought, which is probably not all inclusive. All but the CM were advertised by various vendors as Consew CSM-1000. I still use 3 of the CM-1000's with the optical gradient speed controller, and I've had 2 others which left with the machine I installed them on. None gave me any problems, but you did need to do some mods on the controls for the best results. All the other CSM-1000 types seem to use a Hall effect sensor, which tends to start more abruptly. The latest ones I've purchased that have 4 buttons and a 4 character display seem to be better in that regard. For my use, the lowest initial-on speed seen with almost any of these is not sufficiently into the motor's power band to use on heavy materials as installed. I only use direct drive pulleys on machines sewing moderate fabric and set the RPM to the max rated speed of the individual machine, which some of these motors can easily exceed. All of the machines which see thicker material like my Juki 563, Consew 206RB-5, Seiko SK-6, and the Mitsubishi cylinder arm have speed reducer pulleys fitted. I've yet to have one of these motors "go bad" myself. All of the clutch motors which came with any machines I bought in used condition have been discarded as scrap. I don't do repetitive piecework in a garment factory, and I really find the buzzing and the various "personalities" of these 40lb. watermellon sized relics pretty annoying. If I need 3000SPM, I get it easily. The garment factories still in business have been retiring clutch motors with various new machines using REAL servo type motors with electronic clutches and other automated pneumatic or solenoid actuated functions since forever, and lately, with the direct drive electronic motor very similar to the retail push-button servo in many ways. -DC
  8. SARK9

    Juki 563L

    Its a vertical, like the Singer 111/211/Seiko LCW-8BL etc (pictured).
  9. SARK9

    Juki 563L

    I've had 3 LU-563's...none of them have ever had an anti-backlash spring in the bobbin basket. Frankly, I didn't know such a thing existed, but that certainly means nothing. Most of the work product you will encounter on a site such as this is quite often produced by machines using *speed reducers* ; The anti-backlash spring is more a fixture of balls-to-the-walls garment or other fabric trades, where you run the machines at speeds close to the maximum your 3450 rpm clutch motor is capable of, punctuated with ABRUPT stops at the end of a stitch line. The anti-backlash spring helps overcome the spinning inertia of the rapidly rotating bobbin when the thread demand STOPS INSTANTLY, otherwise you get a mess of a bird's nest reminiscent of what you'd see with a bad cast from an old-school bait casting fishing reel. That flat blue spring is very often furnished with the bobbin cases of many horizontal axis machines, but I've never heard of one for a 563, and never seen one called out in a Juki LU-563 parts list. Unless you are doing long runs like production shop marine applications can require, I'd guess you will never miss it in your Juki. BTW, I'd like to see a picture of the model badge on your Juki...I'm not familiar with a 563L subclass. -DC
  10. This is a generic clone sold under several "badges" and quality levels. Sort of a Singer 45K inspired type of machine. The GA5-1R has reverse. Google images has a zillion to compare. -DC
  11. Google "Techsew 2800 standard sewing set". -DC
  12. SARK9

    $50 white whale SCORE! Singer 29-4!

    Those are "pre-wound" bobbins which are commercially produced to eliminate the metal bobbins in industrial machines. The "style" for a 29-4 is a (number) 19, the small bobbin patcher size, whereas the "large bobbin" version is a style (letter) I as far as I can tell. I have no idea who may still be offering them. -DC
  13. Nakajima also made this machine as a "DD-N73" and branded it Yakumo as well. I would suggest that anything branded by Nakajima or Seiko will be very good quality. There are hints that this machine was their take on the Singer 45K. -DC
  14. Strongly suggests bent needle bar to me. -DC
  15. SARK9

    I want to restore a Singer 111W153

    The tag does say 153....but I have no explanation for it. The machine certainly LOOKS like a model previous to the 111W15(X) models. The common wisdom says they changed the stitch length adjustment from the dial on the handwheel to the stop button on the bed and a stitch length scale you viewed through a hole in the column after the 111W152 model (I have a W152 and it is fitted out as described), and also added a safety clutch to protect the hook, also with its own button in line with the stitch adjustment stop button. You can see the pretty prominent pair of buttons on the bed in the picture posted. The single button you refer to may be an oiler ball zerk, in the depressed area behind the bobbin cover plate. It really only matters if you are trying to find some of the parts for the earlier type machine in a W153 manual. I know several here own examples of the earlier 111W machines and can perhaps explain when the W153 runs actually began. -DC