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About SARK9

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  1. Lots of popular machines use the "U" style bobbin....searching for *bobbins Juki LU-563* will pop some up. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Cutex-Pack-of-25-Juki-LU-1508N-LU-1560N-LU-563-Metal-Bobbins-With-Storage-Case/164249790612?hash=item263e0ce894:g:xHMAAOSwVVBe6phJ ...as an example. -DC
  2. We have actually covered this old saw several times. There are multiple ways to retain the usual "tilt back" when using a wheel-type reducer. One universal rule is to mount the reducer so that its axle's rotation point is very slightly behind the hinge pin location on your machine. This unloads the belt upon tilt and everything is business as usual. I have had a variety of machines all using reducers with brushless motors and still have 4 set up that way now. Carry on. -DC
  3. As far as I know, the "old casting" Pfaff 335 feed dogs and needle plates interchange with the CU-865....they are all over Ebay etc. You need to know if your's has the parts for the synchro binder or the regular feed setup. The presser feet are the ubiquitous Singer 111W type walking foot style. Zillions. My upper thread guide is factory stock but looks different than the one in the parts books....mine is a simple straight rod with the typical 90 degree offset holes for the thread to pass through....just a short section of threads on the lower end secured with a jam nut. The knurled nut.....ummm...here's the thread control ass'by. Maybe pick a number? -DC
  4. Short answer- The main good which will come from this approach is: You will already have purchased the servo motor you will want later in your hand. You'll have to come up with a way to adapt the handwheel to a 3L V-belt to take advantage of the added power.....see below. While the Mira is one of the better domestics and uses the "high shank" presser foot, the feed/transport and presser foot spring are going to be the next weakest link and will always make professional workmanship a risky proposition. I've done something similar to an old Pfaff 260 which had a 'sploded motor and the dreaded *stapled fabric motor belt disintegration syndrome*... both motor and belt are pretty much unique to this model and at the time, were pretty dang scarce and $$$. I turned a nice steel "universal" handwheel pulley for it, which had a groove which would still accommodate the "stock" motor belt in the correct position inside the top cover, but also had a groove for the common 3/16" domestic V-belt, PLUS I machined a groove for a standard 3L motor belt located outboard. I set up a motor mount to use a 1.5 amp domestic motor I had laying around and a reduction gear driving the tiny motor pulley these machines use. It worked pretty well for what I needed it to do, which was attach a heavy fabric reflective panel to a K9 vest made of 1000D Cordura with a narrow zig-zag stich around the border. I later attached a Consew brushless CSM 1000 "servo" motor (with the remote mountable control lever) to it, which was dead easy to do, and it worked well, but then bought a like-new Singer 20U33 and rendered it all silly. -DC
  5. Like several other *standards*, the contents and specifications are licensed by the body that generates the information. See: https://www.asme.org/codes-standards/find-codes-standards/b30-9-slings No idea if it has the complete construction details that would be of interest in this discussion, but this is most likely why there is not much authoritative info on the web. I've encountered similar gate keepers when looking up the specs on V-belt pulley dimensions. -DC
  6. Most of the programmable functions are controlled by a low voltage solenoid or small air cylinder. You can delete the controller and replace the motor with a "servo" of your choice, and use a dedicated switch to actuate foot lift/reverse levers etc. You need to find the voltages required etc. Some of the electrical wizards here can probably provide model specific hints. -DC
  7. One other thing to check, if you haven't already, is the bobbin case opener adjustment...if too tight they bind a bit. -DC
  8. I believe the 211U566A uses the large "U" bobbin and may be a Japanese model. The 211G266 is German made and uses the smaller "G" style bobbin. I'd go with the U model if its suitable for your projects. -DC
  9. The 134 system is a common needle I use on a couple of fabric-type machines....The "R" designation indicates ROUND POINT style. It comes in other points for leather etc. My Singer 20U33 and Pfaff 481 both use this system. Some of the other confusing systems can be seen in the photo attached: -DC
  10. Yes and Yes. I think this is the budget set that has all the parts in one go: https://www.ebay.com/itm/162817911154 Quality wasn't too bad, but it did require a tiny bit of fitting. -DC
  11. I've been using a bobbin cover to mount and switch the various binders I use for quite some time....These top-load machines make it very convenient to lock the binders in the position needed to perfectly run the different material/binder combinations, and retain those settings without wasting any time or material to resume work every time you change binders. Simply switch out to another pre-adjusted cover plate/binder combo, or back to a plain cover plate as needed. I shop-make my own plates from mild steel in batches. Machine shown is an old 111W152 someone discarded, resurrected as a dedicated binder. If you don't install a binder needle plate and foot set on these walking foot machines, you may chase your tail for an epoch or so trying to get decent results. DISCLAIMER: I only use this setup on heavy fabrics needing various inside curves, and I mostly use the double fold styles with my own bias tapes. I can't find the odd colors needed in any purchased tapes or webbing. -DC
  12. There is another side of that particular coin....many of the aftermarket presser feet are made to "about here" tolerances and occasionally require adjustment of the foot height to function correctly. The center (smaller) presser foot should trap the material you are sewing against the feed dog and move rearward in UNISON with the needle and feed dog. While this is not quite as positive as a 4-motion or elliptical feed dog motion, its not all that bad when adjusted correctly. Adjusting a two-motion feed dog is sort of not designed into the mechanism in many machines....the design assumes a certain protrusion through a certain thickness of the needle plate, but it has to NOT interfere with the material which the outer foot traps and holds when the center foot lifts and resets the presser foot to the forward position for a new stitch. If you remove the needle and cycle the machine by hand with a sample of the material you are having problems with under the foot, see if the foot has the material firmly trapped against the feed dog, to the point it is difficult to move or slip from under the foot. If you run it thru the whole cycle and the center foot allows slippage or does NOT feed it in time with the feed dogs, you probably need the check the adjustment of your presser feet. I'm not sure how your machine adjusts, but many of the walking foot types have you cycle the machine until the needle just touches the material you are sewing, then loosen a link on the upper feed bar assembly and let the feet "snap" into the correct position (for the height of your feet) and the material thickness you are sewing. Your mileage may vary, but that is how several of my machines compensate for the pair of presser foot lengths being a tad wrong. -DC
  13. It could be just the picture, but every moving part I see in that shot looks dirty and dry. It could be holding out for a cleaning and re-oiling. -DC
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