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  1. Here is an odd one for your consideration- I do not have any info on which manufacturer uses this, but at least it has a name. -DC
  2. The 111w152 is a useful triple feed machine....however, it has a more limited foot lift and stitch length than the similar 111w154 or 155. I used a 152 for quite a while as a dedicated binder machine for mainly one part style, for which the stitch length was about 8 and the matl thickness hardly varied. It's a good machine, but not the best choice for versatility...for the price I'd cross my fingers and keep looking.
  3. Many would suggest that obsolete "clutch motor" is not worth the bother or the time needed for the necessary learning curve.... unless you plan on working in a garment factory doing a quota of by-the-piece work with no say over the equipment provided, or just wish to collect another skillset with ever diminishing real-world value. I recently did a shop clean-out and had a full pallet of clutch motor "take-offs" I had shoved out of the way....all were originally installed on the various used industrial machines I had purchased over the years. I listed them on the usual sales sites like FB MKT and Craigs list, priced at $15 each or a cheaper price for all. Several looked like new. I had ZERO takers for a couple of months time, and finally gave the whole batch to a neighbor's grandson to tinker with for his non-sewing projects. They really seem to have zero market value these da ys. These old industrial motors originally became commonplace with "individuals" as the typical installed component available on the surplus second hand sewing machines sold off and replaced by factories, and in past times there was little else available as a power source for these bargain priced cast-offs. There are now several styles of "servo motors" available which are much more pleasant to use either in a high-production factory OR a small shop/home shop, and their popularity is a result of many factors. Mine are capable of 3500/4000 RPM and will definitely rock if you need to rock, but are much less temperamental and predictable for very slow detailed work. Most all of them DO require the RPM to get up into the "power band" for sewing hard to penetrate or sticky materials, and adding a speed reducer (torque multiplier) is a quick fix that is pretty palatable for most. The anti-backlash "feature" was provided to counteract the rotating inertia of a bobbin spinning nearly as fast as the machine could drive it on repeat patterned parts (as in the above ACTUAL industrial factory or shop), then coming to frequent abrupt stops.... it would unwind a couple of revs and produce a good birdnest frequently. If your style of sewing is often required to do long runs as fast as possible as some upholstery shops encounter, then including the backlash washer will benefit you and its not really going to bother anything. The actual problem is most likely that clutch motor's awful behaviors. The machines with a "vertical axis" bobbin (like the Juki LU563, Singer 111W and similar) tend to be completely intolerant of just starting out stitching without hanging on the the needle thread for a couple of stitches. If you have a top-loading bobbin, figure on hanging on to the thread tails. As others here have mentioned recently, I also use a strong magnet to anchor that thread when I have to have both hands on the work. I think the issue is a design that allows the first stitch to "prefer" pulling the loose thread tail rather than pull the needle thread through the whole tension assembly when it begins. That safety clutch is there for a reason! My Consew 206RB5 (horizontal axis bobbin) actually makes a marketing feature out of its ability to simply change bobbins and start sewing without so much as pulling the bobbin thread up through the feed dog first as was always the usual practice, but I do tend to hold back the needle thread out of habit anyway..... -DC
  4. It has the smaller "G" bobbin, so that would make it an LU 562, although the Consew 226 also had the G bobbin. The *200R* tag on the machine appears to be a totally Chandler designation, but the "B562" stamped on the frame was most likely done by the actual manufacturer of the machine. Its a dead ringer for my 563 except for the bobbin size. The name "Consew" itself was a legal dodge to enable marketing the machines in the U.S. , as the earlier "Consew" machines were actually made by Seiko in Japan as I recall. Both seemed to owe a lot to the Singer 111G156 design..... -DC
  5. I've owned the Chandler version of the LU-563, and recently bought a Chandler rebadged 562. Both were excellent machines and I could tell little difference in quality between them and the Juki versions I own now. The fidelity of the "copy" is so excellent I would be inclined to suspect that some of these machines were MADE for Chandler by Juki under contract. The details on the markings of the "562" clone I have is pretty suggestive- You could do far worse with a more contemporary import clone of this machine, IMHO. -DC
  6. Not familiar with your exact machine, but it looks (superficially) similar to the same area on a Consew 206RB4 , which had a similar problem that was significant enough for them to add a thumb-button on the RB5, which now has to be pushed in to change the stitch length. Many of these *clone* machines are nearly direct copies of older designs, so someone who has an RB4 may have a come up with a workaround, if yours IS based on the consew. -DC
  7. For what its worth, one of the larger sewing machines I have came with similar automated functions....a Mitsubishi Limi-Stop Z servo that was all 3 phase....it had the usual factory stuff...backtack, needle position, foot lift, reverse...the mechanical stuff was pneumatic but the actuator valves were controlled by the electronic brain on the main unit. What you may find interesting was it was powered by a *static phase converter* and plugged into a typical household 220V outlet. The small HP requirements for your machines may make that reasonably economical compared to an actual roto-phase setup. The bonus is, no motor running the whole time you need the 3ph power. I've used one static phase converter in the past (came with a new Powermatic model 72 table saw I bought) and I never felt like it was underpowered when ripping long 2" Honduras Mahogany boards down to width. I use a couple of 5hp roto-phase motor conversions to power the machine tools my current shop, and you may find the droning of the motors a bit annoying if they are indoors with you. -DC
  8. You can modify the shaft in such a way that it will be semi-universal..(I have no 45K or 441 type bobbins to test/verify). ..The bobbins I wind on this one are: (L to R) Singer 144w/Juki LG-158 Seiko SK-6 (132K stye), U style, M style, G style, A style, and Singer 29k (large) style. -DC
  9. Most of the common walking foot mechanisms (as seen on the Singer 111W class machines) are very similar in construction and adjust in nearly the same way. Uwe has uploaded a video with a segment covering this adjustment: The manual also describes the procedure: https://s3.amazonaws.com/a.teamworksales.com/CONSEW+PDF/CONSEW+NEW/CONSEW+206RB-5+INSTRUCTION+MANUAL.pdf I would point out that many of the *bargain priced feet* available from our Asian trading partners are absolute crap and wildly variable in the as-installed length, this will produce lots of puzzlement as you swap out foot styles. The feed dog height can also be poorly adjusted as well. -DC
  10. If you can get the right parts. You will need all the usual stuff: Inner and outer foot, feed dog, needle plate and possibly a needle bar as well. I can't tell if your check spring is still there for the thread controller assembly, but both sets of tension discs and springs are missing. If you use the 144W style of outer (presser) foot, you will have to rotate the presser bar 90 degrees. The Juki LG-158 I have has single and double needle versions....mine was the 158-1 (single) but I didn't care for the original setup for those same parts and made some with a more specific design for my work. The good news is it seems that some of the Singer parts are more plentiful, but there's not really a lot of variety. -DC
  11. Also the Consew 744R and the Juki LG-158/158-1 have some parts in common. -DC
  12. Many of the longarm machines (like my Juki 158) have the reverse mechanism operated by a chain located near the back underside of the casting....as you can imagine, its tough to reach over to operate a reverse lever that is 30 inches away. They were equipped to use a foot pedal for reverse. -DC
  13. I've got 9 industrials in two former bedrooms upstairs....all but 2 are on the normal sized industrial tables, and those 2 are on custom made tables that are shorter but wider. Lightest is the Singer 20U33, heaviest is the Seiko SK-6. The Juki LG-158-1 on its stock issue Juki table will NOT be making the trip upstairs LOL. -DC
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