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Guys,

I am having trouble with my edge kote coming off of my holsters. This is what I do in steps so you can tell me if i am doing something wrong... First I bevel, then burnish with Gum trag, finish my holster with leahter balm & atom wax then top coat it with Weaver's tuff kote and final is apply the edge kote. To test my holster under water for any bleeds I found when my edges get wet the EDGE KOTE rubbs off on cloth such as my shirt. I don't want the edge kote to bleed or rubb off on my clients cloths. Whats my problem here? Wondering if I should let the edge kote dry longer before testing this or is this stuff just crap? Should I apply the edge coat first and then finish with the tuff kote maybe. I can't believe this stuff once wet rubbs off like it does.

I want a nice dark and shiny black edge on my holsters, any suggestions or insight???? THANKS***Lisa

Edited by MsDragonfly

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Perhaps there's nothing for the Edge Kote to bind to. Everything may be too shiny for anything to stick.

Tony.

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Perhaps there's nothing for the Edge Kote to bind to. Everything may be too shiny for anything to stick.

Tony.

Well, to find out if your correct I applied the edge kote to a ruffed up piece of leather that has not been burnished and the same result...rubb off when wet. Then I tried the fiebings edge dye and it also rubbs off on white shirt when wet. Is this stuff not water resistant/proof. Maybe I shouldn't use it for my outdoor products that are subject to being in the rain and what not????? I even applied the tuff kote finish over the edge kote and it doesn't help a whole lot either. I need some help as i like the dressy look the black edge kote gives my holsters***Lisa

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Put the Edge Kote on before the Tuff Kote and airbrush the Tuff Kote rather than brushing it. Tuff Kote the edges as well as the body. The problem will be solved. Same thing happened to me on belts.

:red_bandana::red_bandana::red_bandana:

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Put the Edge Kote on before the Tuff Kote and airbrush the Tuff Kote rather than brushing it. Tuff Kote the edges as well as the body. The problem will be solved. Same thing happened to me on belts.

:red_bandana::red_bandana::red_bandana:

Bree,

Do you think leather can accept applications of a leather conditioner such as Aussie Wax months down the road after Tuff Kote has been applied, or does the Tuff Kote seal the leather, preventing applications of conditioner to be of any use? I'm trying to figure out if it would be best to apply TK then oil and or conditioner or to put on the TK application last.

Tuff Kote also comes in black. Weaver claims that in addition to finishing, TK can be used as an edge coating. I bought a quart of the black, out of curiosity as to why anyone would use the black. I bought it to try out as solely an edge coating. It doesn't go on as black as Edge Paint/LCI Edge Ink, but it does seem to adhere more intensely and flexibly than does either Edge Kote or Edge PAint/Edge Ink.

The black TK isn't going to change the color of leather, so I was wondering, other than for edge coating, what would be the purpose of black TK? Would it be simply a finish for black leather that provides more of a black finish all around.?

Ed

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You need to add some form of a finish on top the the edge kote. if you dont want another finishing process, mix your edgekote with the white tanners bond glue. this serves the purpose of toughening the edge, as well as making it water resistant. Dries within a couple minutes and is totally water proof.

To give you an example, I wet form leather around flasks, this is done after all the tooling and finishing. When I soak it or spray it, I have no problem with the edge kote coming off.

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You need to add some form of a finish on top the the edge kote. if you dont want another finishing process, mix your edgekote with the white tanners bond glue. this serves the purpose of toughening the edge, as well as making it water resistant. Dries within a couple minutes and is totally water proof.

To give you an example, I wet form leather around flasks, this is done after all the tooling and finishing. When I soak it or spray it, I have no problem with the edge kote coming off.

Major,

I have the leather craft cement tanner's bond in white.... is this the stuff you mean?? If so what percentage do I mix this stuff with the edge kote?? Like 50/50 or what?***Lisa

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Bree,

Do you think leather can accept applications of a leather conditioner such as Aussie Wax months down the road after Tuff Kote has been applied, or does the Tuff Kote seal the leather, preventing applications of conditioner to be of any use? I'm trying to figure out if it would be best to apply TK then oil and or conditioner or to put on the TK application last.

Tuff Kote also comes in black. Weaver claims that in addition to finishing, TK can be used as an edge coating. I bought a quart of the black, out of curiosity as to why anyone would use the black. I bought it to try out as solely an edge coating. It doesn't go on as black as Edge Paint/LCI Edge Ink, but it does seem to adhere more intensely and flexibly than does either Edge Kote or Edge PAint/Edge Ink.

The black TK isn't going to change the color of leather, so I was wondering, other than for edge coating, what would be the purpose of black TK? Would it be simply a finish for black leather that provides more of a black finish all around.?

Ed

My experience with it is that it will NOT waterproof the leather so it will not 100% seal it. If that is true, then I would expect that you could apply the Aussie Wax. That is a speculation because I have not actually tried it. The Tuff Kote will stop the bleeding of the edge kote. That I have tested personally. Just make sure that you have full coverage.

If you really want a heavy seal, you can spray the edge coat and any other water-based areas. Get them sealed and then when they are dry, you can brush on the sealer heavily since you have stopped the bleed and can have confidence that you won't remove the edge coat or bleed it into other areas.

As far as the TK goes... brush it on heavily first coat and it will get in there pretty well as other dyes would. Heck you could submerse the leather in TK and you will get real good penetration. And it's tenacious stuff once you get it on right.

:red_bandana::red_bandana::red_bandana:

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PROBLEM SOLVED!!!! THANKS TO "THE MAJOR"

:You_Rock_Emoticon:

I took "The Majors" advice and mixed the Edge Kote with some Tanners Bond Cement. I mixed 2-3 parts Tanners Bond Cement to about 7 parts of the Edge Kote and it worked GREAT! It definately fixed the problem that I was having with the Edge Kote bleeding or rubbing off. I then tried using the Tanners Bond Cement as a top coat after the Edge Kote was applied and it worked just as well.

Thanks to all for your help. ***Lisa

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Great. Glad to hear it worked out. Yes I did mean the white tanners bond. As far as the mix goes, I usually eyeball it. Seems you found one that works. The rule I follow is about 4 parts edge kote to 1 part glue.

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I have the same problem with my belts. You may try applying edge kote first when the edge are smooth with sandpaper, then apply edge kote, wipe off the excess with wet paper towel, then rubbed wit bees wax on top to cover the edge kote. Polish after that.

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I tried this with the Eco Flow Tanner's bond and when I attempted to mix it into some Edge Kote the Tanner's Bond immediately congealed into a ball and would not mix with the Edge Kote. Maybe I will get some of the Fiebing's white glue and give it a try. I was really hoping that this would work for me. I usually do two coats of Edge Kote and then coat it with some thinned Resolene but that make the edge too shiny for my taste on some projects. I may have to give some of the edge paint that Tandy is now selling a try as well.

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