what are rivets for?

[Luke Hatley]

DAGGRIM.........YES,... THOUGHT I WOULD CHANGE UP FOR '09.

TROOPER GAVE YOU GOOD ADVICE ON GETTING THE LONG RIVETS,

THESE WILL WORK FINE FOR YOU. ALSO THE DIAMETER OF THE RIVET POST

IS MUCH SMALLER THAN THE SIZE 9'S.

Edited February 13, 2009 by Luke Hatley

[Raven]

I have some of the 12's, want a pic doing so you can see what they are like, fittet and loose? Ihave an old dog harness I assembled using them.

[Luke Hatley]

DAGGRIN........ANOTHER THOUGHT.......I cannot remember who sells them

but it would be easy to make if you wanted to make it. it is a DOMMING TOOL that will give you

a CONVEX HEAD ON THE HEAD OF THE RIVETS.. IF YOU HAVE A LINNING INSIDE THE HELMETS

THE LINNING WILL COVER UP THE BURR AND WHERE YOU PEENED THE RIVET.

BUT ON THE OUTSIDE... THE DOMMED TOP WOULD LOOK GREAT.

[Daggrim]

Oh oh. So they need to be peened on the inside? That'd be real tough to do. Just can't get two hands and a couple tools in there for some of the rivets.

How would it look if peened on the outside.

Also, yes , any pics of copper rivet work would be appreciated.

Daggrim

[Raven]

Peening is on one side only but you will ned a good hunk of something hard and heavy on the inside so you don't just knock it straight out, like a hammer head or a large cobblestone.

Will go take some pics...

[Luke Hatley]

OK PENNING ON THE INSIDE WOULD BE KINDA DIFFICULT... THEN IF YOU PEENED

THEM ON THE OUTSIDE IT WOULD BE VERY HISTOCRIAL LOOKING.

[Raven]

There you go, the long rivets are the 12's, the short thick ones are the 9's. The 9s come in different sizes, I chose the 1/2"

[bruce johnson]

I don't have any pics of the Douglas set, but they are a three tool set. The first tool is for setting the washer (bur). Basically a cylinder with a hole drilled in the end. The design of Bob's has a longer hole than the Osborne. You can use a longer rivet and not bottom out and bend the shank before the bur is set. It never fails, you need a 1/2" rivet and all you have left is a parts drawer of 1 inchers. After I clip the rivet to length when the bur is set, I lightly peen that over the bur with my ball peen hammer. The second tool in Bob's set has a concave area to round over the peen and and smooth it up. No little hammer dimples all over the peen. The third tool is to dome the rivet head. When you dome the head, you also will flattern the top of the peen on the bottom, and recess it slightly. I have attached some pics of the bur side and head side of some set copper rivets. The domed head doesn't show up real well, but you can kind of get the idea. Bob has the sets for numbers 8, 9, 10, 12, and 14 rivets I think. These are tools a guy can make, but for the time involved and equipment needed I buy them.

I usually set these rivets on my shoeing anvil. Some things are on a curve or I need to get inside of. On those I use an oval auto body dolly. The handle fits into the Hardy or knockout hole on a lot of anvils. It iworks kind of like a "stake anvil" that way.

[Daggrim]

Well Luke, Raven, Bruce, thanks so much for the help. I have a much better idea now of what copper rivets entail. It was difficult trying to put all this together from google searches. In the next month I plan to purchase enough rivets to make a couple helmets, and if I can do it, that'll be a big step towards making some premium grade helmets.

Dag

[Hennessy]

There you go, the long rivets are the 12's, the short thick ones are the 9's. The 9s come in different sizes, I chose the 1/2"

that rivet[complete]has as purty a dome on it as ever i saw,very effective.i've seen greenville saddlemakers hit em down with a hammer [wrong]mostly that rivet will let go under pressure eh.i've hand domed thousands but nonepurtier pete