Work bench

[barra]

here is what i like about keith's set up in no particular order.

1. He has said he has workstations, ie: there are dedicated benches for different tasks, stamping, cutting out etc

2. Great natural lighting

3. Place for everything and everything in it's place

4. tools can be had from the tool boards and when using the draw down he can place the tool down either side within arms reach

5. Draw down central

6. Benches look like they are a good height (benches should suit the individual so as to minimise bending)

7. Benches look solid

8. power tools handy

9. stamping bench built so you can sit or stand to stretch your legs/back

10. workshop is segregated from his retail. He still has the option to invite customers up or be left to work in peace. Segregating workshops from the general public can have health, safety and legal implications.

11. dedicated tool board that to me looks like the sides are on hinges to enable it to be closed. Over the years I used to think that in order to look like a saddler you needed lots of tools on backboards on your main bench. I now find that clutter is avoided if only the tools you religiously go for are out. Others can stay on tool boards like Keith's or in tool boxes. You still know where it is on the one day of the year it is needed. I made canvas tool rolls and categorised the tools. awls, edge tools etc. Only my everyday favourites are out permanently. the tools are still easily accessable and protected from damage and rust causing humidity. In summer the tool rolls go in a box and I throw in some toilet rolls which absorb any moisture. Eventually I would like a tool board like Keith's. When made I can press stud/turn button the tool rolls in place. I have one tool roll inside a grab and go tool box. that has the must have tools for any job. Generally speaking this one tool roll is permanantly open on the bench till I want to go somewhere.

Attached is a pic of a canvas magazine holder I made. The categorised tool rolls are the same principal.

[barra]

Apparently no pic

[steve mason]

Howdy Bob;

there is a lot of good things to note about Keith's shop's shop layout is set up about as good as it gets, there is no wasted steps to get anything, his stand is in the middle, and he just works around it, looks greats.

the only tips I could give you on a benches is make them strong so they have no bounce, especially your stamping bench. I have a large rock, 5" thick, my benches all have 4X4 legs with 2 layers of 3/4" plywood, may rock does not bounce at all. My sure your benches are not to low, I am 6'1" and my bench tops are 42-43" high, there no reason to spend al day bent over if you don't have to.

In other shops I have worked in I have had benches where the rock is inlaid into the bench which is nice, when I was working with vissor his benches have a 10X10" square cut out of the corner with the garbage barrel under, this was very handy, and I only threw out one tool by accident in the 2 1/2 years I was there. My cutting table is 4'X8', it is nice to be able to walk all around the cutting table but limits of space may stop that.

[bruce johnson]

roo,

sorry to pop in, but it looks like a fordham (a flexible shaft dremel tool on steroids)

Actually it is a flexible rotary shaft tool. The handle oscillates and has a large enough chuck to put stamping tools in it. The tool then oscillates. They used to sell these under the trade name of "SpeedStamper" in the LCSJ. Not anything you couldn't buy from other sources, although the large chuck oscillating handpiece might be a bit of a hunt. Some guys who do silver work have their stamping tool shafts turned down to fit the Gravermax handles as well. Barry was even making tools with thin shafts to fit the graver handles. All of my bevelers fit this particular handle with no modifications.

I bought this right after I dislocated my thumb, and it helped take some of the heat off. It is good for repetitve stamping of "walking" tools like bevelers. I know guys who pear shade with them too. Basically you just run it down the cut line to bevel. I did a bunch of winelist covers last year for a restaurant, and had a lot of beadline borders with light beveling on the inside and outside of the beadlines. This makes that kind of beveling fly, and less fatiguing. Not the tool for everyone or used everyday, but nice to have when you do need it.

[tazzmann]

I don't have any pics here at work, but my bench has been converted from a motorcycle engine rebuilding bench. As such, it is all steel frame with a 3/4 inch particle board top with a shelf over the top. Since it is only 6' x 2', it is not big enough for laying out and cutting large pieces of leather on. So..... my next door neighbor is a professional welder and is going to make me a 4' x 8' all steel table (including the top and shelf underneath) and I am going to lay poly over the entire top for a large cutting surface. Down towards one end, I will inlay a v-groove out of aluminum that will be used for cutting fabric in a straight line like the craft stores have and on the other end I am going to mount an anvil and maybe a press. The shelf underneath will be used for storing my leather flat instead of rolled up like they are now.

[wyoming]

Just thought I would give another idea for workbenches. When we remodeled our kitchen, I used two base cabinets and made a top to bridge them. The top is made of two by fours, ran through a table saw to leave a square edge. I used them on edge so my top is about three and one quarter inch thick. If you use readi bolt {threaded rod} you can bolt them together tightly. Glue between each layer and make sure you drill a slightly oversize hole so you can keep your top flat. Contersink the two by fours on the front and back with a large drill bit and use heavy washers when you tighten them up. You can screw the last board on the front to cover the washers and nuts. Use a belt sander to level and smooth the top. This really makes a solid bench, no support needed if you set it on the cabinets and fasten it just like the original counter top. I also used the old wall cabinets above for storage. This works great for me. You can use a router to inlay your stone or just frame it with something like quarter round to keep it from moving.

John

[Sandy Robbins]

Bob,

One thing i really like is the magnetic tool holder strips. I found them at my local Lowes. Here is a picture of my little work bench. The pic is a little crooked. Whatever bench you make or use...it has to be STURDY!! You are sooooo right. Peter Main has the ultimate shop!!!

[paris3200]

Bob,

One thing i really like is the magnetic tool holder strips. I found them at my local Lowes. Here is a picture of my little work bench. The pic is a little crooked. Whatever bench you make or use...it has to be STURDY!! You are sooooo right. Peter Main has the ultimate shop!!!

Sandy what is that on the right side of your bench that looks like a 2x6 or a 2x8 with groves cut into it?

Jason

[Sandy Robbins]

Sandy what is that on the right side of your bench that looks like a 2x6 or a 2x8 with groves cut into it?

Jason

Jason,

That is a strop for my edgers. I got that from Weaver Leather. They are individual pieces of leather that have been cut to fit the grooves. You just put the polishing compound on them and you are good to go.

Sandy

[Doug C]

How do most of you arrange and store your stamping tools around your stamping bench? I know everybody probably has a different preference but I am wanting to rebuild my bench and possibly change the way I keep the tools handy. I've seen somethat use chap leather to make small pockets that hold several tools in each pocket laying in front of the stamping stone and some that use the blocks with holes that keep the tools upright. Maybe there's another method.

Let me know what you prefer.

Thanks,

Doug