How do I do the fringe?

[HobbitSam]

Greetings oh the mighty masters of the hides and rullers of swivel knives and all that goes with it.

Well anyway sorry for my strange einglish, and this is my first post here.

I have been wondering long enough on how do I make fringe.

Seriously I wish I could find an easy way to do that. But as I try do anything on the matter - whatever I do makes me feel that I am inventing a bicycle all over again.

So please tell me about all the ways about it.

[Bree]

Greetings oh the mighty masters of the hides and rullers of swivel knives and all that goes with it.

Well anyway sorry for my strange einglish, and this is my first post here.

I have been wondering long enough on how do I make fringe.

Seriously I wish I could find an easy way to do that. But as I try do anything on the matter - whatever I do makes me feel that I am inventing a bicycle all over again.

So please tell me about all the ways about it.

LOL!! I buy it when I find it on sale. I remember this guy who calls himself Uncle George scored a couple of boxes of long curly fringe and was selling it on EBay. I snapped up a bunch of it. I knew that I could not possibly cut the fringe for the price I was paying to Uncle George. It is a pain in the butt to cut it without a specialized cutter.

[UKRay]

Suddenly I feel like I've dropped into a story by JRR Tolkein...

My way of cutting fringe is pretty simple. I use a gadget I got from Tandy Leather Factory called a 'Striptease' - you may want to check the spelling here! It is basically a bunch of razor sharp knife blades held in a frame and you simply draw your leather over the blades to create your fringe. It does have a few limitations but aside from a rotary cutter I haven't found anything easier. It is reasonably inexpensive and is great for cutting any kind of strips of leather. I also use mine for cutting 1/4" wide veg tan thongs for bag making as it is much easier than using a knife.

[HobbitSam]

oh my.... now a stupid hobbit I feel myself indeed...

so that is that thing which is also capable of cutting thin laces for lacing projects?

I must have walked a thousand times past it while I was in USA and never bought it and now I only see blades for it... leather stripper I guess they call it

though I doubt that machine would have cut me some chups fringe or would it?

Buying fringe does not seem to be an option because then you'd have no choice of colour I guess.

Still I am longing to hear any easy or better way to make accurate looking fringe

and I do appreciate you mentioning my words in comparison with the way professor Tolkien's world reads.

Edited February 25, 2009 by HobbitSam

[Luke Hatley]

Hobbit........dont listen to Ray....

i use a 12" framing square , a LOT of razor blades in a box cutter holder.

lay the framing square on what you are going to fringe. and start cutting.

[Leather Bum]

Correct me if I'm wrong, but I think Ray is referring to this device also available from Siegel of California: Jerry Stripper.

I have not used this product.

ETA: Luke, how do you keep the leather from stretching and making uneven fringe?

L'Bum

Edited February 25, 2009 by Leather Bum

[Luke Hatley]

Correct me if I'm wrong, but I think Ray is referring to this device also available from Siegel of California: Jerry Stripper.

I have not used this product.

ETA: Luke, how do you keep the leather from stretching and making uneven fringe?

L'Bum

if i cut deer skin or elk i will wet it with a spray just to moisten it. this will let the skin stick to

my cutting surface. the framing square is laying on the left side and i am cutting on the right.

i will be cutting 1/8 or a tad larger.

( works for me)

[HobbitSam]

Hobbit........dont listen to Ray....

i use a 12" framing square , a LOT of razor blades in a box cutter holder.

lay the framing square on what you are going to fringe. and start cutting.

Great deer skin shirt!!!! I envy!!!!

Okay cool...now I need to understand what is what if my english kind of let's me understand what may ne a framing square then the concept of box cutter holder escapes my vision totally.

I am very sorry if I make you feel like you are talking to a moron (sometimes plain everyday down to earth things are not within my philological knowledge).

Really then how would leather not drag after blades and become uneven I do not forsee...wetting it must work if it works for you...

That machine at Siegel it seems to be rather inexpensive must get... pity I am in Moscow nowdays.

Are there any more Ideas?

Edited February 25, 2009 by HobbitSam

[steve mason]

I use traditional tools to cut leather,a sharp round knife, there is a reason saddle makers have been using round knifes for over a 100 years, it is because it is the best tool for the job of cutting leather. I make chaps with fringe up to 10" long and about 1/8"wide. All I use is a sharp round knife and a straight edge. this will make very nice knife fringe and will save you money on bandaids. Any type of razor blade are flimsy and may break bend etc and cut you. Razor knifes are for cutting open cardboard they have no other place in a quality leather makers shop. You will be a much better leather worker in the long run if you learn to use the right tools for the right job at the time.

I am jumping off my soapbox now.

Steve

[2MadJacks]

I use traditional tools to cut leather,a sharp round knife, there is a reason saddle makers have been using round knifes for over a 100 years, it is because it is the best tool for the job of cutting leather. I make chaps with fringe up to 10" long and about 1/8"wide. All I use is a sharp round knife and a straight edge. this will make very nice knife fringe and will save you money on bandaids. Any type of razor blade are flimsy and may break bend etc and cut you. Razor knifes are for cutting open cardboard they have no other place in a quality leather makers shop. You will be a much better leather worker in the long run if you learn to use the right tools for the right job at the time.

I am jumping off my soapbox now.

Steve

LOL, are you sure you didn't fall off that soapbox? I could't disagree with you more on this. You don't have to just use tools that are traditional for leather crafting. Someone has to be the first to try anything, whatever means necessary to get the job done nicely. Its okay if you only want to work leather traditionally, but at the same time its also okay to use a razor knife or box blade in a quality leather makers shop.

If I misunderstood your statement then I will go ahead and apologize now. James

[Randy Cornelius]

I use traditional tools to cut leather,a sharp round knife, there is a reason saddle makers have been using round knifes for over a 100 years, it is because it is the best tool for the job of cutting leather. I make chaps with fringe up to 10" long and about 1/8"wide. All I use is a sharp round knife and a straight edge. this will make very nice knife fringe and will save you money on bandaids. Any type of razor blade are flimsy and may break bend etc and cut you. Razor knifes are for cutting open cardboard they have no other place in a quality leather makers shop. You will be a much better leather worker in the long run if you learn to use the right tools for the right job at the time.

I am jumping off my soapbox now.

Steve

I will have to agree with Steve, a sharp round knife and a stright edge and a piece of chalk to make a rough line where to start cutting. Anyone still using a box cutter for leather.... well to each his own.

[Denise]

Here's a couple links to threads with other thoughts, including how to go around corners and still make them look good.

http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?s...8&hl=fringe

http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?s...1&hl=fringe

[mulefool]

Although I can't imagine using anything but a round knife for most things, on the fringe I get great results using a rotary cutter and a clear ruler like the type used by quilters. Run the blade along the edge of the ruler then move it down to the next fringe. Since the ruler is clear you can see that you are cutting consistent fringe and by pressing down on the ruler as you cut you keep the leather from stretching as you cut. Just like with the round knife the key is using a SHARP blade. But the rotary blades are easy to replace and I buy them in bulk. Chris

[UKRay]

You are quite right L'Bum, it IS a Jerry's Stripper - I knew it had something to do with getting your kit off!

The device uses the same sort of knife blades that Luke is suggesting (we know them as Stanley knife blades here in the UK) but it allows you to cut several strips of fringe at a time.

Luke, I can see the sense in making the leather wet so it sticks to the cutting board - what a great tip - and cutting individual strips means it would be a very neat job but this device really saves me so much time. I actually have two of them, one is set to cut 5 x 1/4" thong lacing which means I can easily make the slits for magic braid belts; whilst the other is set to cut 1/8" fringe for purses. They save me valuable production time.

I would also agree that the rotary knife is a great tool for the job when used with a clear ruler - I tend to use that method for tricky bits as the Jerry's stripper isn't too good at cutting in tight spaces. I find it very effective when cutting soft leather and suede.

Regarding the use of a round knife, I completely agree that a round knife will do the job perfectly well and, over the past thirty odd years, I have cut plenty of fringe with one - I just prefer to use the Jerry's Stripper because I find it a very good tool for the job. My work still ends up looking neat, tidy and properly finished. If this makes me a bad leatherworker in the eyes of round knife purists then I guess I can live with that.

Correct me if I'm wrong, but I think Ray is referring to this device also available from Siegel of California: Jerry Stripper.

I have not used this product.

ETA: Luke, how do you keep the leather from stretching and making uneven fringe?

L'Bum

[Double U Leather]

I"m gonna jump into the fray here.....I've been makin' rodeo chaps for 25+ years. When I first started, I used to use scissors!!! After using several roles of Johnson & Johnson athletic tap for blisters, I discovered the rotary knife. I've used a rotary knife since. I don't even do the ruler/straight edge thing. I just start either at the top or inside bottom, depending on which leg. I can pretty much eye ball it as to angles and width. Occasionally, I will have to cut a small wedge out to make the angles work. I also am someone who cut 12-18" fringe on most chaps. I figure that if a guy is ridin' broncs or bulls in my chaps, the chances that anyone will be able to tell if my fringe isn't exactly even width or perfectly straight is pretty slim. And I know the bulls and broncs could care less. Just my 2 cents worth. I wish I had some pics of the chaps I've made on hand. I'll have to dig some I think.

[Luke Hatley]

Ray , thank you. what i probably should have said "my fringe is cut after the item

of clothes are made".

i did try Jerrys Stripper once, but could not get it to cut the fringe on the sleves

like i wanted to.

imagin this, when you are pulling the deerskin you are streching it comming from the stripper

so if i wet the skin and use the razor blade to cut i am not pulling on the skin.

[tonyc1]

I bought one 30 years ago and it wasn't worth the trouble trying to cut soft leather, it wandered everywhere. I use a roundknife or sharp scissors.

Tony.

[UKRay]

Steve,

I have looked at your website and seen the beautiful stuff you make and respect your work enormously. You are obviously a very skilled craftsman; that notwithstanding, I still think this is the most insulting statement I have ever seen on this forum. How can you even suggest that the people who work so hard to make the wonderful, exciting things we see on a daily basis here aren't as good as you just because they don't use a round knife to cut their leather?

I am absolutely astounded. ...and Randy, your comment wasn't much better.

Ray

...Razor knifes are for cutting open cardboard they have no other place in a quality leather makers shop. You will be a much better leather worker in the long run if you learn to use the right tools for the right job at the time.

[badger]

Steve,

I use nothing but a razor knife to cut my leather.

If the 'right tool' is one that will perform the task required of it safely, accurately and reliably in my hands then I'm using the right tool for the job already.

Different strokes........

Karl

[Hennessy]

Although I can't imagine using anything but a round knife for most things, on the fringe I get great results using a rotary cutter and a clear ruler like the type used by quilters. Run the blade along the edge of the ruler then move it down to the next fringe. Since the ruler is clear you can see that you are cutting consistent fringe and by pressing down on the ruler as you cut you keep the leather from stretching as you cut. Just like with the round knife the key is using a SHARP blade. But the rotary blades are easy to replace and I buy them in bulk. Chris

i thought that method wuz one of my trade secrets pete

[gtwister09]

In reading this post, it appears that we are forgetting an important item....SAFETY.

No matter if you use the utility knives or not...

First thing is that "Safety" utility knife blades DO break no matter who makes them... I have used foldable, retractable and stationary knives from Sheffield, Irwin, various Stanley brands, Great Necks and Besseys to name a few. I have used blades from no name cheapos, Stanley, Irwin and even Lenox Titanium blades and the one thing that they ALL do at some time is to break or snap. I have used them for cutting gaskets, fiberglass mats and repair on boats, various cabinetry/construction/carpentry items, asphalt roofing, foam and manufacturing....even cutting thin wire mesh.

Here's the safety warnings from 3 different "Safety" utility knives.

Warning: Utility Knife is intended for cutting only and should be handled with extreme care. Bending the blade can cause it to break, possibly resulting in bodily damage. Wear safety glasses at all times.

Warning: Always wear eye protection which complies with current ANSI Standard Z87.1. Always maintain firm footing and control of the tool. Always disconnect power source before using tool on electrical boxes, fittings or any work piece which could conduct electricity. Electric shock or electrocution could result. Do not twist tool when cutting. The blade could break throwing sharp pieces in all directions.

Warning: Use eye protection at all times to prevent damage to your eyes. Do not use on material that is conducting electrical current. If so, disconnect electrical current to prevent electrocution. Use firm footing, correct posture and maintain proper control of the tool. Do not twist or bend the blade as this may cause bodily injury due to the possibility of blade breakage.

Needless to say every one of them makes the point that the blades can break. Even the packs of blades have warnings about breakage as well.

Trick for "Problem" Leather Material

I was shown a trick for cutting VERY stretchy leather almost 30 yeas ago. The chap maker who used this technique said that he had only used 5 or 6 times but when it was needed he said it was a great asset. He normally only cut with a knife and an old layout ruler (see through ruler with a steel edge to cut against) to cut fringe even down to 1/8". However sometimes the material would stretch so badly that he had to use another method to cut the leather.

He would take a piece of clear shelf liner and apply it to the back side of the chap leather to firm it up. After applying it he would take a glass slicker and make sure that the liner and material were without bubbles. Then he could cut the "problem" fringe with no poblem. On my first couple of fringe jobs he had me use this method as well. It was actually quite easy to cut this way but it adds to the production time to complete the job.

Hopefully this could help someone with stretchy problem material.

Regards,

Ben

[UKRay]

Ben,

A week or two back I had my round knife break in my hand whilst I was cutting a straight strap - I had a lucky escape. My point is that all knives can be dangerous and accidents will occasionally happen no matter how careful you are. Saying that all safety utility knives are dangerous is like saying a gun is dangerous - sure it is - when it is in the wrong (or untrained) hands. Equally, it can be a valuable tool.

I do like your trick for stretchy leather - I'll definitely file that one away 'til I need it. Thanks!

Ray

[gtwister09]

Ray,

Glad that you liked the trick for stretchy leather and could possibly use the suggestion in the future. That's what the board/forum is for.

I did read your round knife and welding fiasco. Sorry that occurred to you.

My post was NOT to offend you or argue with you but to raise safety awareness with regard to these blades. As a point of reference to make your point and mine as well, I have a friend who had his eye cut (even with safety glasses on that met ANSI standards) because a new blade snapped so I am certainly careful about their use. Even in trained hands they can be an issue as experienced by my friend who had a freak accident (yes I stress a freak accident). Both of us still use these utility knives regularly. You have likewise made the point about all knives are sharp and could cause an accident. Agreed.

Some points of clarification..... (1) I did not say that utility knives didn't have a place to be used. In fact I stated that I have used MANY types of utility knives with many different blades on a multitude of jobs and occupations. (2) I gave the actual Warnings from three different utility knives. It is their warnings NOT mine. (3) I likewise made no comment as to utility knives being a gun either. I didn't see any gun comments except for yours. (4) I didn't make a comment about it NOT being a valuable tool either.

I am sorry that you were offended by Steve and Randy's comments. My guess is that was the reason for reading more into my post than was there. It is certainly their opinion and just like belly buttons we all have them. You likewise disagreed with them as well so you likewise had an opinion. Most saddlemakers would encourage you to step up to using a round knife.

Since you raised the issue of round knives breaking, I would have to say that breaking a round knife certainly occurs a whole lot less than breaking a razor blade. In fact from an engineer's standpoint, you could state that statistically speaking round knife breakages would be insignificant when compared to the number of utility blades broken.

I think that we can all agree that all types of knives are sharp and dangerous and should be handled with care. Accidents can and do occur even when we are careful but safety and awareness training is NEVER a bad suggestion. The manufacturer's warning labels show us that we have additional issues to be concerned with when we use utility knives in any type of work whether it is for leather work or any other trade or occupation.

Regards,

Ben

[UKRay]

Ben,

I wouldn't argue with anything you just said other than the suggestion that I was in any way upset with you. That is not the case at all.

Ray

[ArtS]

I use a roller blade for the fringe and it works out great.

Art