How do I do the fringe?

[Shelly]

Well, I'll throw my hat into the mix here - I've read lots of variations on cutting fringe, and haven't seen one that mentioned how I do it, so I'll tell everyone, then I'll duck for cover! First of all, I do not 'add' fringe to shotgun chaps, etc, if it isn't supposed to have a double layed fringe, or, a different look, such as rough out leggins with slick out fringe, etc. When I do shotguns, (we'll use them as the example in question here, as this is probably most of what I do in chaps), I make sure I allow enough material on the leg beyond the zipper to accomodate the fringe. Once the chaps are basically finished, except the cutting of the fringe, I have a few basic tools for that job. First - I make sure my allowance is trimmed to allow for the length of fringe requested, (in the case of 99% of what I produce, that means the fringe will be cut at an angle, and will be at least 8" long) - I use a plastic triangle, can be purchased at most drafting supply stores, art supply, etc - this is not 'light' material - this has a 90 degree angle, with shortest side and middle length making up that angle, the longest side will be the 'cutting side'. The long side is at least 8" - this is the 'cutting edge', the 'zipper side', which I will lay straight on top of the fringe, against the bulge made by the zipper beneath, will be kept at the same angle thruout the process, which is perpendicular to the zipper, even at the top of my chap leg, where I always start, on both legs (the shortest side is at the bottom). As I cut each strip, as narrow as possible, I move the plastic down - this effectively holds the soft leather down under the plastic wedge, gives me a crisp edge to cut against and allows me to keep the hand that isn't working the cutter out of the way, and I use it to put whatever necessary pressure is needed to the plastic wedge to allow me to cut clean. I've never, ever, had a problem, or cut myself, doing it this way. I use a good rotary cutter - preferably one that can be used right or left handed, (I posted pix of the type of rotary cutter I like some months ago in a different thread, but don't recall which). By starting at the top, working my way down, and doing the same on both legs, it stays uniform from top to bottom, and matches as closely as possible, leg to leg. Obviously, there are many ways to get to the same place, and I know how each has developed a way that works best for them, and, once habituated, anything else can, and will, feel totally wrong, since it's not what we're used to doing. I have cut fringe with sharp leather shears, and did it as told in an earlier thread - start in, and let the shears 'glide' thru the leather, to cut. I've used round knives - have had many different ones over the years, and feel, for me personally, they are not the best tool for this process...and I try to have my knives super sharp, at all times. The last thing I would like to mention - rotary blades are wonderful tools - but, like any other blades, once they are dull, discard them and replace with a new one - your job goes a lot smoother and faster. And, to everyone that sharpens 'disposable' blades - I've known many over the years that did so, and took lots of heat in some shops I worked in because I would not do it - it's hard to do, number one, it's not worth the time you spend to do it, compared to the cost of a disposable blade (called 'disposable' for a reason), and you can seriously hurt yourself trying to buff or sharpen one, just to save a little - my advice: don't. If you feel you are not making enough money on these sort of jobs to afford to replace the rotary blades or disposables, or whatever, then you need to go back to the good books we have available on how to price your work so you can actually cover costs, expenses, overhead, salary, and profit.

NOW - LET THE MUD SLINGING BEGIN!!

Edited February 27, 2009 by Shelly

[greg gomersall]

does that mean them rotary cutters are a girlie thing? Greg

[Shelly]

HMMM -No, don't think I've ever considered rotary knives 'girlie'....but then, I is one...!

[bruce johnson]

Got your back, Shelley. I use a rotary knife a fair amount. I use one with my 6 foot ruler for straightening backs on up to skirting for straps. It just rolls right along. I use it to cut patterns out of chap leather. It seems to not kink up the really soft stuff going around an outside curve like my round knives do occasionally. I figure I am saving the edges of my good knives at the expense of a disposable blade. I use the pinking and scalloping blades on the rotary cutters for pinked and scalloped edges on chap and vegtan too.

Now another confession. The first few chinks I did, I used a meat cleaver thinned down and sharpened enough to earnotch ants. I just set it in and rocked the blade to cut fringe. It worked out well until I dropped it and took a good sized chunk out of the middle of the blade. Now I use a round knife and the plastic straight edge.

One other safety deal that hasn't been brought up about round knives too. Some people will rock them or "roll" the blade to make the cut. Some people are "pushers" only. My old pal gave me the warning several years ago about rocking. Some people will roll and make a cut from almost point to point of a round knife. If you are a rocker, never go past the most forward part of the blade (half way around) and you probably shouldn't even go that far. You are knuckled over and awkward. If you lose your grip or the knife slips or the piece slips, the opposite point of the round knife is quickly approaching your wrist. That knife is coming back towards you, and the downward and forward pressure you are putting on it will shoot that knife right back and up into your wrist. I guess nobody needs the anatomy lesson that cutting any of those things like tendons, ligaments, nerves, and blood vessels will be a bad thing, more severe than a string bleeder ever thought about doing to a guy's foot.

[Windy]

does that mean them rotary cutters are a girlie thing? Greg

My rotary cutter has a motor on it making it manly.

WINDY

[Luke Hatley]

. and thats my story and i'm

sticking to it.

[tonyc1]

My rotary cutter has a motor on it making it manly.

WINDY

Did Tim The Toolman sell it to from Binfords??? More Power!!!

Tony.

[Windy]

Did Tim The Toolman sell it to from Binfords??? More Power!!!

Tony.

Tony,

How did you know which one I was talking about.

WINDY

[tonyc1]

Yeah, Windy. That's the model I thought you were talking about!!!

Tony.

PS. You're quick.

[HobbitSam]

Now thank you all guys and ladies!

Upon reading all this I am quite overwhealmed...indeed I can feel the sensation of so many excellent leathermasters turning their attention to reply to my humble question. I thank you all very much!!!

To add my 5 cents to the conversation - it now seems to me that the most important and correct tool for doing the fringe is patience and determination and when those qualities become armed by a sharp edge of whichever kind then shredding revolution starts.

And since this looks like the true description of the case I am bound to become a buddist monk and become very patient, but as far as I know they do not readily accept girls into their holy ranks, so I must take a knife that I have and upon dampening the backside of leather press the ruler down and gently make a clean cut with a fresh blade.

I must say that I have been using a Stanley knife almost since the beginning of my more serious leather working. Before that I was using a more traditional to Russia angle shoemaker knife which looks like this one here :

I love my stanley knife and it is exactly the same as Karl from England have shown in a previous page, unexpected difficulty arouse just months ago when they stopped importing spare stanley blades to Russia... I mean we have the other ones that fit the knife but they are thin and they wiggle and become dull rather soon strop em or not...

Rotary knife is something I have been always cautious about, probabbly because it looks as if it can go faster then I can think.

ANd the round knife is a dream for me... I wish I had one... someday I will, but I am always shy to it as I am not too sure on how to use it...

And the knifes that have a breakaway blade segment I use never as I do believe they are flimsy and in the end those are utter shite they are indeed even for office purposes ...

I thank you all again, your works are great, I wish I knew a fith of what some of you know about building shotgun chaps, and at east a tenth of other leather secrets, indeed so, since my friends ask me for chaps I say okey someday and then try to figure it out, but when I see what say Chuck Burrows has to offer his customers I understand that there are many trade tricks ahead of me.

I hope I will be able to contribute here someday, and I also hope that we'll become friends with you, sorry if I do not appear everyday here.

Best of luck!

Edited March 4, 2009 by HobbitSam

[badger]

Tell you what........

PM me your adress and I'll send you a new Stanley knife and a bunch of blades for it!

Cheers,

Karl

[HobbitSam]

Thank you master ) you are very kind!

Thank you!

[BondoBobCustomSaddles]

Well once again, I find that I need to get into the fray. I use what works for me! Most generally it is a round knife, an antique on at that. One of the things I like about a round knife is that you can not only slice to make a cut, but; you can also "roll" and make the cut. Given that you are making a lot of cuts, 6-8 per inch for some 60-80 inches 6" to 8"long, it is nice and easier on your hands to be able to change the action on your wrist and fingers once in a while! As for rotary cutters, I use them too, but; they do not hold an edge for long periods of time when doing this kind of cutting, and don't sharpen very well. All in all, a good round knife, kept SHARP gets the job done. Since I like my fringe to be a continuation of the actual chap leg, I don't buy commercial fringe and stitch it on, even if it is the right color and length. That's where the "all made the old fashioned way" phrase come in on my logo. Oh, by the way, they have to pay for it too!

Happy Trails,

Bondo Bob