Sewing a Belt

[Aulus]

So, the last Days i surfed the Internet for Belt ideas. And there is one, that I find really nice. The Quality of Manufactum-Products ist very high, I´m ordering often there (the original Firm is from Germany).

But now, heres my Problem: This Belt is sewn across the Axes of the Leather. rhall told me i should´nt do that because it will weak the Leather (take al look at this Threat) when I was showing how i did a service Belt. Is that really so? I like it to sew across axes I find it looks very fine. But if this is really a problem, I won´t do it in future work.

[hidepounder]

It does weaken the leather....but just how much strain is going to put on that belt? With a waistline like mine, there is a potential for product failure, otherwise, under normal usage, it's probably not a problem!

[jbird]

First off that belt in the picture is thick very thick and as such I would notbe worried about making it weak how ever the problem with sewing across is with time as the belt bends it's not normal and over time becomes a week spot.

Josh

[dbusarow]

Aulus,

I'll use my stitching awl for an example. My awl blade is just over 1/10 of an inch wide (0.12"), let's just call it 1/10. There are 8 stitch holes in the belt behind the keeper and it looks like a 1.5 inch belt. So 0.8" or over 1/2 of the leather has been cut, 0.7" are left holding the belt together. And this has been done in 2 places. When you look at the stitch hole towards the top you can really see this.

Dan

[hidepounder]

In this circumstance, put two or three wide stitches accross the grain to hold the keeper in place. You can even wrap the outside edge with the stitch. This will minimize the weak point created. You will see this method used on a lot of headstalls and other similar equipment.

[rdb]

I don't know what it's all about, with these unstained, basically unfinished "natural" leathergoods lately, and their prices...geez! $138 US for the simplest of belts, is just beyond my comprehension. $8 in material, including a buckle, and a quickly rubbed edge...For that money, I will come every other month, and refurbish it, for a year!...lol

As far as the stitching, don't do it that way. Hidepounder is right, stitching around the edge will strengthen it, but at some point it will fail, sooner than a parallell stitch. The proper way to stitch this type of belt would be a handstitched row parallell to the edge, and sewing the keeper loop in with that line. The loop would not go all the way underneath, but just enough to hold 3-4 stitches along the edge ala Stohlman's old and proven method . Doing it this way, reduces bulk from the loop, and gives it a stitch line that will probably last longer than the owner (hope you understand what I mean).

[tonyc1]

So, the last Days i surfed the Internet for Belt ideas. And there is one, that I find really nice. The Quality of Manufactum-Products ist very high, I´m ordering often there (the original Firm is from Germany).

But now, heres my Problem: This Belt is sewn across the Axes of the Leather. rhall told me i should´nt do that because it will weak the Leather (take al look at this Threat) when I was showing how i did a service Belt. Is that really so? I like it to sew across axes I find it looks very fine. But if this is really a problem, I won´t do it in future work.

It looks a nice belt, but it is heavier than the 0.8 - 1mm they say it is. I don't think it matters sewing across a trouser belt unless you're like a sumo but I wouldn't do it with any horse gear!

Tony.

[Rayban]

I've worn this belt for at least 15 years. I didn't make it, it was a store-bought gift....and I wear it regularly, I bet 3-4 times a week.....you can see that the single line of stitching has held.

So while in theory, sewing across it may weaken it...IN THEORY!!! , it's not something you have to worry about in a belt.

[celticleather]

I don't know what it's all about, with these unstained, basically unfinished "natural" leathergoods lately, and their prices...geez! $138 US for the simplest of belts, is just beyond my comprehension. $8 in material, including a buckle, and a quickly rubbed edge...For that money, I will come every other month, and refurbish it, for a year!...lol

Seems to be a case of 'sell as little as possible for as much as possible'! Some folk can be duped into paying way over the odds for goods, just because they're expensive.

The description says 'The belt expands with use and needs suitably wide waist-loops'. Do they mean that it stretches (not a sign of good leather), or does it have a hidden elastic somewhere?

Just for the record, I never stitch across the width of belts. I often get cheap belts brought into the shop for repair, and many of them have split across a stitch-line.

[Rayban]

Seems to be a case of 'sell as little as possible for as much as possible'! Some folk can be duped into paying way over the odds for goods, just because they're expensive.

The description says 'The belt expands with use and needs suitably wide waist-loops'. Do they mean that it stretches (not a sign of good leather), or does it have a hidden elastic somewhere?

Just for the record, I never stitch across the width of belts. I often get cheap belts brought into the shop for repair, and many of them have split across a stitch-line.

"cheap belts"...key words here......

[Aulus]

Thanks a lot for the answers. If the Belt is for "normal Use" the customer should say how he want´s the Belt sewn.

For Dog or Horse Gear I usually don´t sew across the Axes. I´ve never done and I won´t do it in future.

[cazio]

What about using chicago screws? I have them on a couple of my belts and it makes it so easy to swap out buckles and keepers. I recently switched the brass buckle with a silver one on my Tucker belt in black cherry and it is even better looking than before as least to me anyways.