Members BOOMSTICKHolsters Posted March 23, 2009 Members Report Posted March 23, 2009 Well, it certainly sounds like it would be suitable from your description, Denster. I have thought about it, and I still probably won't ever switch from Barge's or Master's cement, myself. For me, it isn't worth taking the chance on the other product just to save money, especially when there is unparalleled evidence from thousands of holsters made by the best in the business that traditional cement works well. I do appreciate you sharing this information, though. Thanks again. Quote
Denster Posted March 23, 2009 Report Posted March 23, 2009 No one was suggesting you switch. In any case you wouldn't save any money with Leatherweld, it is more expensive than Barges. I only decided to try it when I observed John Bianchi recommending it. As to the comparison with Elmer's Glue-All that is just what I observed. Quote
Members BOOMSTICKHolsters Posted March 23, 2009 Members Report Posted March 23, 2009 Sorry, but it kind of seemed like the original post implied the suggestion to switch to Elmer's for the cost savings.... If, in fact, it was merely an observation, then truth be told so was my last post, so take it for what it's worth. John Bianchi definitely knows his stuff, and I very much value his opinion and experience. He has probably forgotten more about leather than a lot of us will ever know. He pioneered some of the concepts in modern holster making. I would suggest that anyone be careful with some of his practices in relation to ccw holsters, though, as some things like saturating the holster in hot oil is more applicable to cowboy rigs, and would be detrimental to a ccw holster in the long run. Quote
Denster Posted March 23, 2009 Report Posted March 23, 2009 No need to apologize no offense taken. I think Lobo's original post was more presenting his observation and an option rather than a suggestion to change, but that's just the way I took it. Rather than rely on another posters statement that it was not a safe and secure methodology for constructing a holster and it had been conclusively shown, which it had not, and to satisfy my curiosity I decided to do some tests. Before I made a switch to Glue-All I'd do still more testing. Since I've got a couple of Gallons of Leatherweld that won't be anytime soon. For the record Bianchi does not soak holsters in Hot oil. In the DVD series your are refering to he mentions warming the oil during the winter time to about 80degrees which is the same thing it recommends on the gallons I buy from Weaver's. As to soaking, the holster and belt he makes in the series are 7oz lined with 6oz. That will soak up a lot of neetsfoot without affecting the integrity of the holster. It would be totally out of place on a CCW rig. Speaking of CCW I looked at your site. Damn nice holsters. If you weren't so far behind I'd order one and I make holsters. Quote
Members Shorts Posted March 23, 2009 Members Report Posted March 23, 2009 Denster, good experiment. You hit some points I was concerned about during my build process affecting the glue. Thanks. Quote
Members K-Man Posted March 23, 2009 Members Report Posted March 23, 2009 (edited) Never mind. Edited March 23, 2009 by K-Man Quote
Members K-Man Posted March 24, 2009 Members Report Posted March 24, 2009 I stand behind my comments 100%, as they were made based on my own research and testing. People researching this subject can evaluate all of the information posted here and determine for themselves what they might wish to do. Some of the wood glues might be a viable alternative. I've used Titebond III in the application of exotic skins to a variety of subbase materials, to include aluminum and wood. I've met with excellent results. Titebond III is a waterproof glue. Since the beginning of this discussion, I've also tested it in the application of gluing veg tanned leather pieces together. After following the directions on the container, it's held together. It dries basically clear. I cannot even pull the two pieces of leather apart. I've not yet sewn the leather pieces together. It's way too early to tell how it will hold up long term, but based on these initial results, it does show some promise. Quote
Members Rayban Posted March 24, 2009 Members Report Posted March 24, 2009 Well lookie what I found in my shop last night....it's been sitting on a shelf, empty, probably all winter, but I now remember picking it up at a drug-store, where this was all they had. And I also remember that it WORKS just like any other contact cement on leather. Quote Raybanwww.rgleather.net
Contributing Member TwinOaks Posted March 24, 2009 Contributing Member Report Posted March 24, 2009 What the heckle, I'll add my $.02 as well. Regardless of which glue/cement is used-whether it's Master's, Barge, Elmer's, Titebond, or something starch based and made out of over cooked rice- what is the point of the cement? I was under the impression that when bonding two pieces of leather, it wasn't 'to hold it until you could stitch it', rather the stitching worked to enforce the areas under the most stress and the glue held it all together. I was also under the impression that when bonding hides, it isn't supposed to be temporary. It shouldn't be "o.k." for the leather to work loose and start squeaking- not even on a long break in period. The squeaking leather means that the leather isn't bonded and is rubbing against the other leather, weakening both. Now I've read some articles in the saddler's section that refer to pieces being glued to a saddle. The original intent was to go back and stitch it later. Reality was that the stitching never happened, and the pieces stayed put just fine, and this was a working saddle. That's what I think of as 'bonded'. For this thread: Lobo, thanks for the suggestion of an alternative to "leather glue". Beaverslayer also had some suggestions on the same lines and I'll let the folks use the search function to find it. Also, lighten up and go easy on the caffeinne. Just because a member asks if you'd considered X, or thought of Z, or anything else.....it most likely isn't a personal attack. Its been nice to see all the different views expressed here, and BIG THANK YOU to Denster for doing the test pieces and posting your results. Me, I can't drink anymore so I'll keep using something with high VOCs. P.S. I glue then stitch my holsters, then apply conditioner(s), and if needed a top coat. Yeah, coloring gets in there too sometimes. I haven't had a squeaking holster yet. Granted I've only made about 12, and it includes the one I carry on me. Since at least one aspiring novice holster maker is able to make non-squeaking holsters- by hand, and with a whole year's experience- you might to re-think some of your statements like "all new leather items squeak, at least until they break in". Perhaps there is something to be learned in your 38th year of experience. Quote Mike DeLoach Esse Quam Videri (Be rather than Seem) "Don't learn the tricks of the trade.....Learn the trade." "Teach what you know......Learn what you don't." LEATHER ARTISAN'S DIGITAL GUILD on Facebook.
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