ABC3 Report post Posted March 24, 2009 For those of you that sew by machine: How do you sew a concealment holster. I come in about 3/16" from the edge & sew my line with no problem. But to sew close to the gun line (I'm going to call it) is almost impossible. I'm digging into the leather and in general, just messing up the project. I'm sewing on an Artisan 3000 & using the Left foot. If I back off from the gun line the gun does not have the retention I want. The cavity is just too large. Any suggestions? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Art Report post Posted March 24, 2009 Hi Tom, Have you tried the right foot? That and you need to get a slotted plate and lose the feed dogs. That stuff is all 441 hardware and http://www.neelsaddlery.com/ http://www.ferdco.com/ http://www.leathermachineco.com/ will have it in addition to Artisan. I like the harness foot (all of them call it different things) that has a short toe, real short, it allows you to get up close to things. When the feet are down, the front of the outside and inside foot are even with each other. A grinder and a light touch can make almost anything out of the foot with the big thingie on the front that comes with it, unfortunately, it can't make it a right foot. Art For those of you that sew by machine: How do you sew a concealment holster. I come in about 3/16" from the edge & sew my line with no problem. But to sew close to the gun line (I'm going to call it) is almost impossible. I'm digging into the leather and in general, just messing up the project. I'm sewing on an Artisan 3000 & using the Left foot. If I back off from the gun line the gun does not have the retention I want. The cavity is just too large.Any suggestions? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ABC3 Report post Posted March 24, 2009 Art, thanks for the reply. I don't quite understand what you're saying but I ran off a copy of your comments and will go down and take a look at the machine and see if I can figure it out. Thanks again, Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mike Craw Report post Posted March 24, 2009 Hey Tom! If I read your original post correctly, it sounds like you are sewing an already formed holster. Is that correct? I do all my sewing by hand, but I sew first and then wet mold the holster. If you sew first, you shouldn't have any problem getting on your line. I hope this helps, unless I mis-read your question, and in that case it will be absolutely useless... Mike Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Randyc Report post Posted March 25, 2009 Hey Tom!If I read your original post correctly, it sounds like you are sewing an already formed holster. Is that correct? I do all my sewing by hand, but I sew first and then wet mold the holster. If you sew first, you shouldn't have any problem getting on your line. I hope this helps, unless I mis-read your question, and in that case it will be absolutely useless... Mike I agree with Mike, if your stitching after molding, that mey be the reason for your problems. I learned a trick that mey help. After glueing, I parcially case (wet) my leather and do a real quick light mold job. I mold just enough to to see the outer lines of the weapon. I draw out my stitch lines, then flatten out the holster. I do my stitching then I again case the leather. I then do my molding. Good Luck Randy Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ABC3 Report post Posted March 25, 2009 Thanks guys, You did read my post correctly. I mold my holsters (in a press), let it dry over night, then attempt to sew it. And that's where I'm running into problems. I've never thought about molding lightly prior to sewing. I'll give it a try. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ArcherBen Report post Posted March 25, 2009 After glueing, I parcially case (wet) my leather and do a real quick light mold job. I mold just enough to to see the outer lines of the weapon. I draw out my stitch lines, then flatten out the holster. I do my stitching then I again case the leather. I then do my molding. I hand stitch all of my work (although a machine is on my wish list), but I use this same method simply so that I can get my stitch lines just right and in tight to the weapon. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Lui Report post Posted March 25, 2009 Hi Art on the link to Cobra machines it looks like Steve from Artisan is standing there. Did he leave Artisan? Lui Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Art Report post Posted March 25, 2009 Hi Lui, He left Artisan at the end of February. Has his own company now. Art Hi Art on the link to Cobra machines it looks like Steve from Artisan is standing there. Did he leave Artisan?Lui Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cazio Report post Posted April 1, 2009 I was reading this thread and wanted to thank you guys for your tips to Hobby Tom. I also stitch by hand and usually try to set my stitch line and sew it up before I mold any of it, I want to try out your tip about partially molding and then setting the stitch lines. From time to time I really mess up my lines and the holster opening is to tight, this may be just what I need. Thanks guys. Cazio I agree with Mike, if your stitching after molding, that mey be the reason for your problems. I learned a trick that mey help. After glueing, I parcially case (wet) my leather and do a real quick light mold job. I mold just enough to to see the outer lines of the weapon. I draw out my stitch lines, then flatten out the holster. I do my stitching then I again case the leather. I then do my molding.Good Luck Randy Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites