casing leather

[Tkleather1]

Hey there everyone I was curious, since I have found that there are a million ways to do the same thing, How does everyone go through the casing and slicking process.

I personally know that I am probably not casing correct. but this is my method. I rough cut my pattern. use packing tape ont the backside. Thourouly wet my leather trace carving pattern, wrap in saran wrap and put in the fridge, come back the next day and carve and stamp. Notice I dont slick YET and I am sure that I have missed steps that would help with my end results. If anyone is willing to share how you do it I sure would like to hear the different ways.

Good day to all.

[TomSwede]

For me I kinda developed a sense for holding the leather I will be using under the tap and just bag it when I feel like it is wet enough. Then I may put it in the fridge overnight overnight. However sometimes when I'm more in a hurry I use the method described by Rawhide, I put under a piece of glass for an hour or so. Works fine with me.

Most times I cut to final shape before casing and for bracers I seldom use backing tape. I make sure casing is right before I trace the pattern because I want a good burnished visible pattern. Too moist and the lines will deteriorate when it dries up IMHO.

I do a first rough slicking after carving and tooling and if needed I wet the edges a little bit. Then when my object is about finished with colours and all I wet the edges and do the final slicking.

Slicking is still something I'm not very good at but most times I'm pretty happy with it.

Tom

[Tkleather1]

For me I kinda developed a sense for holding the leather I will be using under the tap and just bag it when I feel like it is wet enough. Then I may put it in the fridge overnight overnight. However sometimes when I'm more in a hurry I use the method described by Rawhide, I put under a piece of glass for an hour or so. Works fine with me.

Most times I cut to final shape before casing and for bracers I seldom use backing tape. I make sure casing is right before I trace the pattern because I want a good burnished visible pattern. Too moist and the lines will deteriorate when it dries up IMHO.

I do a first rough slicking after carving and tooling and if needed I wet the edges a little bit. Then when my object is about finished with colours and all I wet the edges and do the final slicking.

Slicking is still something I'm not very good at but most times I'm pretty happy with it.

Tom

I think that the slicking that you are refering to is the edge slicking? I definetly do that, I am refering to Slicking or stretching of the leather before the carving. I am curious about leaving a piece under glass however, What does that do for the leather I have not heard of that method?

[MarkB]

Tkleather1

I soak most of my items for a minute or two depends on the thickness of the leather. I too rough cut my shape then I use a glass slicker or hard wood type of slicker to stretch the leather as it drys. If I'm in a rush I use a spray bottle and wet the back well and the front a little, then slick it, then set it under a piece of plexiglass for an hour. I then trace the final pattern on and cut to size. When it's close to the original color I carve or stamp. I put my items between sheep skin if it's a large piece or put it under the plexiglass if I can't finish it that day. If I'm going to be a day or two before I can get back to it, I put it in the fridge. This seems to work for me well but I'm sure there are better ways to do it I will be keeping an eye on this for more insight.

Mark

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[Tkleather1]

Tkleather1

I soak most of my items for a minute or two depends on the thickness of the leather. I too rough cut my shape then I use a glass slicker or hard wood type of slicker to stretch the leather as it drys. If I'm in a rush I use a spray bottle and wet the back well and the front a little, then slick it, then set it under a piece of plexiglass for an hour. I then trace the final pattern on and cut to size. When it's close to the original color I carve or stamp. I put my items between sheep skin if it's a large piece or put it under the plexiglass if I can't finish it that day. If I'm going to be a day or two before I can get back to it, I put it in the fridge. This seems to work for me well but I'm sure there are better ways to do it I will be keeping an eye on this for more insight.

Mark

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Thanks for the input I still dont get why you guys are using the glass, is it the same as puting it in a bag? By the way I checked out your site, you turn out some nice stuff.

[MarkB]

Tkleather1

I think the reason for the glass is that air can't get to it as much holding the moisture in better. not sure. I used bags for awhile but like the glass better just me.

Mark

[hidepounder]

My method for casing is similar to those already posted, but I'll go through it anyway. First I rough cut my piece out of the side. I think dip the entire piece in a bowl of water in which I've added a small amount of Joy dish soap. At this point I will slick the piece in all directions with a glass slicker, causing the leather to stretch. Next I take a piece of trimmed sheepskin..dip it in water...work up a little lather on a bar of Ivory soap and wipe that all over the piece. I then let the piece sit out until it begins to return to it's natural color...almost to the point where you would want to start carving. I feel the use of the soap helps lubricate your swivel knife when cutting leather that is "sticky" due to residual acids/chemicals resulting from the tanning process. I then seal everything in a plastic garbage bag or freezer bag and leave it alone for a day. I don't put it in the refrigertor unless I know I'm not going to get to it for a couple of days.

When I'm ready to tool, I remove the piece from the plastic bag and slick the entire piece again. At this point the slicking process is compacting the surface of the leather, making the density of the leather more consistant to tool. Now I glue the leather to a piece of 1/4 acrylic, using rubber cement(on belts I use a couple of layers of packing tape). It remains on the acrylic until I'm finished tooling. I am not concerned about the residual rubber cement on the back because I line everything I do.

Depending on what the project is, determines whether of not I cut the piece to size before mounting to the acrylic...it is not crucial one way or the other. If I don't want to cut a piece to size before mounting it, but need the finished edges so that I can use dividers to established a margin, I will cut the lines of the finished edge with my swivel knife. I can then finish cutting to size when I remove the leather from the acrylic.

Well that's it...not real complicated. I may include some unnecessay steps, but to date this is my process....

Bob

Edited March 26, 2009 by hidepounder

[MarkB]

My method for casing is similar to those already posted, but I'll go through it anyway. First I rough cut my piece out of the side. I think dip the entire piece in a bowl of water in which I've added a small amount of Joy dish soap. At this point I will slick the piece in all directions with a glass slicker, causing the leather to stretch. Next I take a piece of trimmed sheepskin..dip it in water...work up a little lather on a bar of Ivory soap and wipe that all over the piece. I then let the piece sit out until it begins to return to it's natural color...almost to the point where you would want to start carving. I feel the use of the soap helps lubricate your swivel knife when cutting leather that is "sticky" due to residual acids/chemicals resulting from the tanning process. I then seal everything in a plastic garbage bag or freezer bag and leave it alone for a day. I don't put it in the refrigertor unless I know I'm not going to get to it for a couple of days.

When I'm ready to tool, I remove the piece from the plastic bag and slick the entire piece again. At this point the slicking process is compacting the surface of the leather, making the density of the leather more consistant to tool. Now I glue the leather to a piece of 1/4 acrylic, using rubber cement(on belts I use a couple of layers of packing tape). It remains on the acrylic until I'm finished tooling. I am not concerned about the residual rubber cement on the back because I line everything I do.

Depending on what the project is, determines whether of not I cut the piece to size before mounting to the acrylic...it is not crucial one way or the other. If I don't want to cut a piece to size before mounting it, but need the finished edges so that I can use dividers to established a margin, I will cut the lines of the finished edge with my swivel knife. I can then finish cutting to size when I remove the leather from the acrylic.

Well that's it...not real complicated. I may include some unnecessay steps, but to date this is my process....

Bob

Bob

Have you used Pro-carve? I had not heard of the Ivory soap before. I've used the pro-carve I think it helps for the same reasons as the soap. I'll try the soap sounds cheaper.

Mark

[Tkleather1]

Well it sounds like that is pretty much the tried and true method with a few tricks thrown in here and there. I just heard about the soap the other day and have yet to try it. I found that there are a few steps that I think I need to add thats for sure. so hidepunder if I use your method does that mean that my carving will turn out as great as yours.LOL I wish.

I finally understand the purpose of slicking and it makes perfect sense now that I think about it.

[hidepounder]

Bob

Have you used Pro-carve? I had not heard of the Ivory soap before. I've used the pro-carve I think it helps for the same reasons as the soap. I'll try the soap sounds cheaper.

Mark

Mark,

I have used the Pro-Carve and I think it does help when leather is really tough, however I find that casing with the soap is better for me. I have a whole bottle of the stuff I will probably never use. More often than not I find that people aren't getting their swivel knife blades sharp enough and look to products like Pro-Carve to make the difference. Every now and then, however, I try it again.

Bob

Well it sounds like that is pretty much the tried and true method with a few tricks thrown in here and there. I just heard about the soap the other day and have yet to try it. I found that there are a few steps that I think I need to add thats for sure. so hidepunder if I use your method does that mean that my carving will turn out as great as yours.LOL I wish.

I finally understand the purpose of slicking and it makes perfect sense now that I think about it.

ABOSOLUTELY!