casing leather

[Tkleather1]

Hey there everyone I was curious, since I have found that there are a million ways to do the same thing, How does everyone go through the casing and slicking process.

I personally know that I am probably not casing correct. but this is my method. I rough cut my pattern. use packing tape ont the backside. Thourouly wet my leather trace carving pattern, wrap in saran wrap and put in the fridge, come back the next day and carve and stamp. Notice I dont slick YET and I am sure that I have missed steps that would help with my end results. If anyone is willing to share how you do it I sure would like to hear the different ways.

Good day to all.

[TomSwede]

For me I kinda developed a sense for holding the leather I will be using under the tap and just bag it when I feel like it is wet enough. Then I may put it in the fridge overnight overnight. However sometimes when I'm more in a hurry I use the method described by Rawhide, I put under a piece of glass for an hour or so. Works fine with me.

Most times I cut to final shape before casing and for bracers I seldom use backing tape. I make sure casing is right before I trace the pattern because I want a good burnished visible pattern. Too moist and the lines will deteriorate when it dries up IMHO.

I do a first rough slicking after carving and tooling and if needed I wet the edges a little bit. Then when my object is about finished with colours and all I wet the edges and do the final slicking.

Slicking is still something I'm not very good at but most times I'm pretty happy with it.

Tom

[Tkleather1]

For me I kinda developed a sense for holding the leather I will be using under the tap and just bag it when I feel like it is wet enough. Then I may put it in the fridge overnight overnight. However sometimes when I'm more in a hurry I use the method described by Rawhide, I put under a piece of glass for an hour or so. Works fine with me.

Most times I cut to final shape before casing and for bracers I seldom use backing tape. I make sure casing is right before I trace the pattern because I want a good burnished visible pattern. Too moist and the lines will deteriorate when it dries up IMHO.

I do a first rough slicking after carving and tooling and if needed I wet the edges a little bit. Then when my object is about finished with colours and all I wet the edges and do the final slicking.

Slicking is still something I'm not very good at but most times I'm pretty happy with it.

Tom

I think that the slicking that you are refering to is the edge slicking? I definetly do that, I am refering to Slicking or stretching of the leather before the carving. I am curious about leaving a piece under glass however, What does that do for the leather I have not heard of that method?

[MarkB]

Tkleather1

I soak most of my items for a minute or two depends on the thickness of the leather. I too rough cut my shape then I use a glass slicker or hard wood type of slicker to stretch the leather as it drys. If I'm in a rush I use a spray bottle and wet the back well and the front a little, then slick it, then set it under a piece of plexiglass for an hour. I then trace the final pattern on and cut to size. When it's close to the original color I carve or stamp. I put my items between sheep skin if it's a large piece or put it under the plexiglass if I can't finish it that day. If I'm going to be a day or two before I can get back to it, I put it in the fridge. This seems to work for me well but I'm sure there are better ways to do it I will be keeping an eye on this for more insight.

Mark

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[Tkleather1]

Tkleather1

I soak most of my items for a minute or two depends on the thickness of the leather. I too rough cut my shape then I use a glass slicker or hard wood type of slicker to stretch the leather as it drys. If I'm in a rush I use a spray bottle and wet the back well and the front a little, then slick it, then set it under a piece of plexiglass for an hour. I then trace the final pattern on and cut to size. When it's close to the original color I carve or stamp. I put my items between sheep skin if it's a large piece or put it under the plexiglass if I can't finish it that day. If I'm going to be a day or two before I can get back to it, I put it in the fridge. This seems to work for me well but I'm sure there are better ways to do it I will be keeping an eye on this for more insight.

Mark

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Thanks for the input I still dont get why you guys are using the glass, is it the same as puting it in a bag? By the way I checked out your site, you turn out some nice stuff.

[MarkB]

Tkleather1

I think the reason for the glass is that air can't get to it as much holding the moisture in better. not sure. I used bags for awhile but like the glass better just me.

Mark

[hidepounder]

My method for casing is similar to those already posted, but I'll go through it anyway. First I rough cut my piece out of the side. I think dip the entire piece in a bowl of water in which I've added a small amount of Joy dish soap. At this point I will slick the piece in all directions with a glass slicker, causing the leather to stretch. Next I take a piece of trimmed sheepskin..dip it in water...work up a little lather on a bar of Ivory soap and wipe that all over the piece. I then let the piece sit out until it begins to return to it's natural color...almost to the point where you would want to start carving. I feel the use of the soap helps lubricate your swivel knife when cutting leather that is "sticky" due to residual acids/chemicals resulting from the tanning process. I then seal everything in a plastic garbage bag or freezer bag and leave it alone for a day. I don't put it in the refrigertor unless I know I'm not going to get to it for a couple of days.

When I'm ready to tool, I remove the piece from the plastic bag and slick the entire piece again. At this point the slicking process is compacting the surface of the leather, making the density of the leather more consistant to tool. Now I glue the leather to a piece of 1/4 acrylic, using rubber cement(on belts I use a couple of layers of packing tape). It remains on the acrylic until I'm finished tooling. I am not concerned about the residual rubber cement on the back because I line everything I do.

Depending on what the project is, determines whether of not I cut the piece to size before mounting to the acrylic...it is not crucial one way or the other. If I don't want to cut a piece to size before mounting it, but need the finished edges so that I can use dividers to established a margin, I will cut the lines of the finished edge with my swivel knife. I can then finish cutting to size when I remove the leather from the acrylic.

Well that's it...not real complicated. I may include some unnecessay steps, but to date this is my process....

Bob

Edited March 26, 2009 by hidepounder

[MarkB]

My method for casing is similar to those already posted, but I'll go through it anyway. First I rough cut my piece out of the side. I think dip the entire piece in a bowl of water in which I've added a small amount of Joy dish soap. At this point I will slick the piece in all directions with a glass slicker, causing the leather to stretch. Next I take a piece of trimmed sheepskin..dip it in water...work up a little lather on a bar of Ivory soap and wipe that all over the piece. I then let the piece sit out until it begins to return to it's natural color...almost to the point where you would want to start carving. I feel the use of the soap helps lubricate your swivel knife when cutting leather that is "sticky" due to residual acids/chemicals resulting from the tanning process. I then seal everything in a plastic garbage bag or freezer bag and leave it alone for a day. I don't put it in the refrigertor unless I know I'm not going to get to it for a couple of days.

When I'm ready to tool, I remove the piece from the plastic bag and slick the entire piece again. At this point the slicking process is compacting the surface of the leather, making the density of the leather more consistant to tool. Now I glue the leather to a piece of 1/4 acrylic, using rubber cement(on belts I use a couple of layers of packing tape). It remains on the acrylic until I'm finished tooling. I am not concerned about the residual rubber cement on the back because I line everything I do.

Depending on what the project is, determines whether of not I cut the piece to size before mounting to the acrylic...it is not crucial one way or the other. If I don't want to cut a piece to size before mounting it, but need the finished edges so that I can use dividers to established a margin, I will cut the lines of the finished edge with my swivel knife. I can then finish cutting to size when I remove the leather from the acrylic.

Well that's it...not real complicated. I may include some unnecessay steps, but to date this is my process....

Bob

Bob

Have you used Pro-carve? I had not heard of the Ivory soap before. I've used the pro-carve I think it helps for the same reasons as the soap. I'll try the soap sounds cheaper.

Mark

[Tkleather1]

Well it sounds like that is pretty much the tried and true method with a few tricks thrown in here and there. I just heard about the soap the other day and have yet to try it. I found that there are a few steps that I think I need to add thats for sure. so hidepunder if I use your method does that mean that my carving will turn out as great as yours.LOL I wish.

I finally understand the purpose of slicking and it makes perfect sense now that I think about it.

[hidepounder]

Bob

Have you used Pro-carve? I had not heard of the Ivory soap before. I've used the pro-carve I think it helps for the same reasons as the soap. I'll try the soap sounds cheaper.

Mark

Mark,

I have used the Pro-Carve and I think it does help when leather is really tough, however I find that casing with the soap is better for me. I have a whole bottle of the stuff I will probably never use. More often than not I find that people aren't getting their swivel knife blades sharp enough and look to products like Pro-Carve to make the difference. Every now and then, however, I try it again.

Bob

Well it sounds like that is pretty much the tried and true method with a few tricks thrown in here and there. I just heard about the soap the other day and have yet to try it. I found that there are a few steps that I think I need to add thats for sure. so hidepunder if I use your method does that mean that my carving will turn out as great as yours.LOL I wish.

I finally understand the purpose of slicking and it makes perfect sense now that I think about it.

ABOSOLUTELY!

[Tkleather1]

Well thanks for all of the input it sure helps me figure out the RIGHT way to do it. I realized that I have been missing a few things and I will definetly try some of those things. Thanks again for all of the input.

[MarkB]

Mark,

I have used the Pro-Carve and I think it does help when leather is really tough, however I find that casing with the soap is better for me. I have a whole bottle of the stuff I will probably never use. More often than not I find that people aren't getting their swivel knife blades sharp enough and look to products like Pro-Carve to make the difference. Every now and then, however, I try it again.

Bob

ABOSOLUTELY!

Bob

I tried it because Jeremiah Watt uses it or may have never tried it. I'm with you on the sharp knife and I think practice with the swivel knife is also important. I think you have to have a feel for your knife so you make better knife cuts. IMHO

For me a thinner blade work better than a thick one. What do you think.

[flathat4life]

Could some of you maybe expand on your preferance of slickers. On my Dale Harwood DVD's, he has one made of Lignum Vitae that he likes alot but it looks like something i would have to get the hard wood for and then make. Is there any advantage to it over the glass. I know Barry King makes a glass slicker thats on his website for half resonable price that i'v had my eye's on for a few weeks. Also, is there any where else that i could buy one of either the wood or glass. I know we're at the point here that it just comes to a guys personal preferance but I'm curious to hear your opinions anyway.

Thanks to all of you for takeing the time to post your process on topics like this. I always learn somthing new and greatly appreciate it!

Thanks

Jed

Edited March 27, 2009 by flathat4life

[King's X]

I picked up my glass slicker from Hobby Lobby from the scrapbooking area, I believe. It is a little 3"x3" square piece. Good luck

You might want to conduct a search for casing solution. I remember Rawhide (Marlon) and another member had a pretty good thread going.

Greetings from Round Rock, Texas

[flathat4life]

I picked up my glass slicker from Hobby Lobby from the scrapbooking area, I believe. It is a little 3"x3" square piece. Good luck

You might want to conduct a search for casing solution. I remember Rawhide (Marlon) and another member had a pretty good thread going.

Greetings from Round Rock, Texas

Thanks ATX,

I'll do that.....I'm gessing that i would prefer my slicker to have some size to it. Exspecially since i plan on starting in the saddle making and will be tooling on alot of larger items. Someone can correct me if i'm wrong but it seems to me that the wider the slicker is, the more consistant it will be in slicking a desent size project. Plus it will speed up the process alittle. I'm looking at aleast 6 inches wide, with a desent thickness to the rounded slicking edge, and enough hight that its comfortable to use.... Maybe you exsperts could verify this just incase i end up making my own.

Thanks Again,

jed

Edited March 27, 2009 by flathat4life

[King's X]

There you go. I do this craft as my hobby, big different. What I am finding out is you pay for what you get. You buy cheap, you get cheap! I have been purchasing a couple of BK tools and boy is there a difference. Now, I am sell all two hundred of my crafttools to turn around and purchase a few more top line tools. I just went crazy at the beginning and amast these tools. some have never been used.

Anyways, purchase the best since you want to do this for a business, that I would agree with. As for me, estate sales and a BK tool here and there will be quite fine for me.

Good luck.

Greetings from Round Rock, Texas

[Timbo]

So does the ivory soap get washed off after the carving is done or wipe it off or what exactly??? Never heard of ivory soap before just wondering what happens to when it's all done.

Tim

[hidepounder]

Sorry for not replying sooner....I was out of town for a week and then lost track of this thread!

MarkB,

For me, the type of blade I use depends completely on what size pattern and what weight leather I'm using. For larger patterns and heavier leather I use a 5/8" barrel with a 5/8" HG straight blade. In the other extreme, on a small pattern on light leather I will use a 3/8" barrel witha 1/4" angled HG blade. In general, I do agree that a thinner blade is easier to use, however it may not leave a wide enough cut to easily apply larger bevelers. Consequently I use a variety of knives (I'm a toolaholic!).

flathat4life,

I like the glass slicker that Barry makes...it's edge is very smooth, it has some weight to it which I like. I also have some wood slickers, but the edge is easily dinged which leaves marks on your leather. In addition, I live in a really dry climate and have trouble with expensive wood slickers cracking. I also have an acrylic slicker and it's edge gts dinged easily also.

Tim,

The Ivory soap doesn't seem to effect anything like finishes, etc. I'm not sure if the soap actually lubricates the knife blade in the leather or if it prevents the crystaline (sp) build-up from forming on the knife blade which causes drag....I suspect it does both! In any case, I think it probably penetrates the leather and combines with other chemical residue which is there. I have never found it to effect dye or antique or Neat-Lac, etc.

Bob

[Bryan]

Lots of great info here! I've got another question to add to the subject. How long can you keep your leather "cased"? I haven't tried keeping it in the fridge yet, so I'm sure that will help, but how long till it's just no good?

-Thanks

[richard55]

hi, i am fairly new to leather work , and cassing never enter my mind,i read a lot about it but there is this question , i spray my leather before working whit it

do i have to case it dip it in wather like what everybody say, or just spraying like i do does the same ting

oufff i am confuse, so please help me ,

will try to comme back to this article if not please whrite me

p/s sorry for my english not so good , i am french canadien

[BearMan]

Hi Everybody,

I'm gonna throw in my 2 cents worth. I case my leather almost exactly like Bob (Hidepounder) does. About the only difference is that after slicking the wetted leather, I lay it out on my cutting mat, it's kinda like the old plastic sole material, & then I cover it with a piece of smooth glass. I've actually had a situation where I had left a piece under the glass for almost 3 days, & it was still moist. Most of the time it's just over night. One thing I'd like to add is about just how wet to get the leather for casing. I've "soaked" untill there was no bubbles coming out,,, & I've also tried just running it under a faucet, & wipping with a sponge. I've never had good luck doing any of those. What I do is, if the piece is small enough, I put it in the casing solution, untill half of the bubbles come out of it. How do I know what half is?? Practise I guess. I try to wet it good,,, but not saturate it. If that makes any sense. You'll know when you get it right. Casing correctly makes all the difference.

What Bob says about wiping the wet leather with Ivory Soap, is a great tip!! It helps a Lot!!

I hope this helps,,, Ed

[bustedlifter]

First I cut out the shape then I run the leather under the faucet in my kitchen sink usually top side first until it's wet. Then I turn it over and run it under until it is good and wet on the back side. Then usually one more time on the top side for good measure. While it's still really wet I transfer the pattern to it and start carving soon after that.

[31ford]

Hi folks:

I am a relative newbie to leatherworking (although I did a little in Junior High School about 47 years ago :-) ) and I am enjoying this website. I have a question regarding the "slicking" referred to here, though. I have never heard of doing this prior to tooling. So, at the risk of asking a dumb question, which side of the leather is "slicked" in this process, the flesh side or the hair side? And if the hair side, why doesn't this leave marks?

Thanks,

Ken

[Balloonman]

Noob here, why ivory soap vs any other bar soap? Not sure what "slicking" is and dictionary does not help. Thanks

[Spinner]

The Ivory soap doesn't seem to effect anything like finishes, etc. I'm not sure if the soap actually lubricates the knife blade in the leather or if it prevents the crystaline (sp) build-up from forming on the knife blade which causes drag....I suspect it does both! In any case, I think it probably penetrates the leather and combines with other chemical residue which is there. I have never found it to effect dye or antique or Neat-Lac, etc.

Soapy & water is also a popular woodturning trick for keeping green wood wet a few extra days. On the website I used to run, we had a member who was an amatuer scientist that conducted a few tests to find out if it was valid or just 'snake oil'. What he found was that the soap raises the evaporation point of the water just enough to keep the moisture content up a bit longer than the water by itself. An easy experiment folks can do is to simply wash your hands...first without soap and then with soap but don't rinse it off. You'll notice the soapy water on your hands takes much longer to dry. Ivory in particular does a better job of this because in the early 1990s they started to leave the glycerol in their soap (most companies remove it to eliminate the 'oily' feeling). Some little known facts about Glycerol that explain why soaps with glycerol are great lubricants:

In motion-picture production, glycerol is used as a non-evaporating substitute for perspiration or tears on actors.

For tincture extraction and preservation of essential oils and chemicals from herbs

Glycerine is used as an anti-drying agent in watercolor paints.

Glycerine is used as a preservative to keep tobacco mixture for use in hookahs moist.

Probably more than you wanted to know, but I thought I would answer the why it lubricates/stays moist part.

Edited June 5, 2010 by Spinner