ponygirl Report post Posted April 21, 2009 Hi all. this is my first post and I am a young aspiring leather worker in Vermont. I am hoping to finally fetch a used machine to begin making some chaps and chinks. The machine will need to be able to sew 5/6 oz chap leather. There will be places on the chinks where I'll have to sew 3 layers of this leather together. I could get away with only sewing 2 layers together if I use a lace on back belt. I have found a Singer Sewing Machine #153K103 for sale locally. The description of this machine according to Singer, is that it can sew light to medium weight leather. It can handle a 25 needle with #8 thread up to a #9 needle with #70 thread. Do you all think this machine might be sufficient for the task? Does anyone know if this machine has a reverse? What would you pay for a machine like this that's used and in good shape? Thanks much! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ryano Report post Posted April 21, 2009 It sure will work. Great walking foot, cylinder arm sewing machine. It has the same feet as the Singer 111w models and takes the same common needle system. 135x17, round point, 135x16 wedge point leather. Parts are still available for this machine also. Good luck and have fun! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kevinhopkins Report post Posted April 21, 2009 Hi... That's a good machine, but there's a couple of things that you might want to be aware of. Just in case you're not a "sewing machine person", you need to know that there's a good chance that the machine you're getting, has a clutch motor on it. And that's fine, if you have a little experience. But if you don't, you might want to be aware that the machine will take off like a scared rabbit when you put your foot on it, and that can be intimidating for some folks. (My first one had me scared to death!) I'm not a big fan of used machines, but that's mainly because I sold them for so many years. But if you have sewing machine experience, or have a friend that does, the machine you're looking at could be a good one. And it wouldn't be hard to slow it down with either a speed reducer, or a servo motor, or both, if you decide that you need to. Best wishes, Kevin Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ponygirl Report post Posted April 21, 2009 Thank you both for the helpful replies. I am new to sewing (i have only used little dinky home machines in the past) so I would probably want to slow this machine down. Pardon my ignorance, but can you tell me what exactly is a speed reducer or servo motor? How do these work to slow down the pace of the machine? Can you find them at any sewing machine shop? Also, I've found that this machine doesn't have a reverse. How difficult is it to learn how to finish a stitch off without the reverse? If it's something I can work around I'm more than willing to. Unfortunately my budget doesn't allow for a more expensive machine and if this is a sturdy one, I'd like to give it a shot, even if it means learning a few tricks. Thanks again! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Deb59 Report post Posted April 21, 2009 Hi, Good luck with your machine! As far as no reverse, You can get the same effect if you sew up to where you want to stop. Stop with the needle down. Pick up the presser foot, turn your leather around, put the presser foot back down and sew a few stitches back down the stitched line you just made. This will do the same thing as a reverse stitch. A little more time consuming, but will get the job done. Be sure to post some pictures when you get some done - Deb Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ryano Report post Posted April 21, 2009 A speed reducer is a 2 pulley idler system that is installed between the motor and sewing machine. Most are designed to slow the machine to half the motor speed which also doubles the torque of the machine. Here is a link on ebay: http://cgi.ebay.com/Industrial-Sewing-Mach...Q2em118Q2el1247 A servo motor is a reostatically controlled motor that runs like a house sewing machine meaning the farther you press the go pedal down, the faster the machine will run. Both the speed reducer and servo motor systems are around 100 to 150 bucks. Pretty costly if you ask me. I would stick a block of wood or a brick under the foot peddle to limit the amount of travel the peddle has to slow the machine down. That does not cost anything. lol You will get use to it I'm sure. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kevinhopkins Report post Posted April 21, 2009 Thank you both for the helpful replies. I am new to sewing (i have only used little dinky home machines in the past) so I would probably want to slow this machine down. Pardon my ignorance, but can you tell me what exactly is a speed reducer or servo motor? How do these work to slow down the pace of the machine? Can you find them at any sewing machine shop?Also, I've found that this machine doesn't have a reverse. How difficult is it to learn how to finish a stitch off without the reverse? If it's something I can work around I'm more than willing to. Unfortunately my budget doesn't allow for a more expensive machine and if this is a sturdy one, I'd like to give it a shot, even if it means learning a few tricks. Thanks again! Hi... a speed reducer is a pulley system that mounts to the bottom of the table. It will slow down your machine about 30 to 50%. A servo motor is kind of like a dimmer switch on a light. Easy to control, and will usually allow even an inexperienced person to sit down and sew with success. I know that you said you really can't afford a new machine, but if there's any way that you can, it would be a good idea. For what it's worth, I wouldn't recommend buying a used machine from a friend.... things have a way of not working out so well. As to it not having reverse, it might not be too big of a deal.... especially if you don't intend on sewing for money. But if you're thinking about trying to make a little money with your hobby, I'd be going for the reverse. Sewing can machines open a lot of doors for you.... Hope yours works out good for you! And by the way, if you decide you want to pursue the reducer or motor, tell me where you are, and I'll point you to the closest source. Best wishes Kevin Hopkins Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ponygirl Report post Posted April 21, 2009 Ryano - that's exactly the type of tricks i'm talking about! thanks for the advice. A block of wood sounds a heck of a lot better than 150 bucks. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ryano Report post Posted April 21, 2009 (edited) My advice to you is to buy this book. It will show you everything you need to know about sewing with an industrial sewing machine plus many, many, more things. It is a super, super book. You can find this book a little cheaper though. http://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-BOOK-Automotive-Up...1QQcmdZViewItem Edited April 21, 2009 by ryano Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ponygirl Report post Posted April 22, 2009 Kevin, I've heard quite a bit about reverse being important. Will not having the reverse impact the quality of the item i'm making? or just add a little more time to the process? Deb's comment gave me the impression that it's workable. I've been hunting for a machine locally with the reverse option, and have found quite a few machines that claim to be "industrial" when really they can only sew some canvas. sigh. This is the first nice machine i've found in a couple months. I'd really like to make a purchase so I can get started on the learning process. The machine is actually not from a friend, so that's good. I've also made friends with the fellow at our local leather repair shop, and he's agreed to help me a bit, which is really nice. I guess I'll decide about that reducer and motor when the time comes I guess Ryano - I just grabbed that book off Amazon for 10 bucks! Thanks! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ryano Report post Posted April 22, 2009 That book will show you what do without reverse. Really the only time I need reverse is when I make nylon halters. Keep in mind that you do not reverse with a leather needle as it will cut the thread. I think you will enjoy the book. The book and my dads old army 111w101 is how I got started in all of this leather work! lol Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bruce johnson Report post Posted April 22, 2009 Another trick to control speed on a clutch motor is to shove a tennis ball under the foot pedal. It will have some give, but also enough resistance to not run off with you at the start. One of the best tips I got from a guy was how to put your foot on the pedal. I was prone ( like a lot of folks I am sure) to stick the ball of my foot on the pedal, and treat it like an accelerater. He had me put my whole foot from heel to end of my bigtoe on the pedal. When I needed to go I loaded my toe, when I needed to slow or stop I loaded my heel. I didn't have to rely on lifting my foot off and the return spring to slow things down. THAT made a huge difference. Especially since some clutch motors tend to coast when you release the pedal. Also be aware they may run for a few cycles immediately after you turn them off and accidentally hit the pedal. I have tried machines in shops with and without speed reducers and servo motors. They are just part of the deal for me now. I rarely have to reach up and grab the flywheel to start or stop. If you have a spouse to train on one, it shortens the learning curve, you don't say bad words to them, and so they still cook your dinner. I know not all servo motors are the same. Mine have a dial that limits the top end speed. You can dial it down to go slow and up to let it rip. I can only compare one machine I had with a clutch vs. a servo motor, but I had to handwheel the clutch fairly often to start slow, the servo I didn't need to nearly as much. It had more punch. The servos I have stop dead and no coasting when you release the pedal. No run on when they are off either. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SteveBrambley Report post Posted April 26, 2009 That book will show you what do without reverse. Really the only time I need reverse is when I make nylon halters. Keep in mind that you do not reverse with a leather needle as it will cut the thread. I think you will enjoy the book. The book and my dads old army 111w101 is how I got started in all of this leather work! lol If you don't use reverse with a leather point needle, how do you lock off your seams? I have been using reverse for years, and very rarely had any problems with the thread being cut. Steve Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Art Report post Posted April 26, 2009 Hi Steve, I'm preaching to the chior here: I tend to sew with smaller needles than I should for a particular look I like, and if anyone should cut a thread, then it should be me. That being said, in the five or six years I have been using a machine with reverse and the 10 or more years I've been using a Campbell needle and awl, I have never cut a thread on a backtack and even doing a triple lock on starting (forward, back, forward). This is using a "D" needle or a wedge awl. I'm not too hip about sticking a block of wood under a clutch machine pedal to control speed, once the clutch fully grabbs, there isn't any control of speed so a block of wood ain't buying you mutch. I would prefer foam or a rubber ball under the pedal, or a big spring to tension the pedal. When new, the clutch comes in hard and fast and they usually come adjusted with the clutch coming in right after the brake lets off. I adjust this so there is a fair amount of "room" between brake and clutch. This is a lesson learned after reaching up to handwheel something, taking the brake off, and then having the clutch engage, believe me the clutch comes in way faster than you can let go. Hand dragging the wheel is another technique I don't care to teach in the forum, she should get an experienced operator to show her that in person. Art If you don't use reverse with a leather point needle, how do you lock off your seams? I have been using reverse for years, and very rarely had any problems with the thread being cut.Steve Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
china Report post Posted April 27, 2009 I wish I could get a servo motor for a $150 down under they sell for $1800 here, china Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Art Report post Posted April 27, 2009 Hi China, An Efka needle positioning motor doesn't sell for anywhere near that, and unless your import duties are astronomical, even the best Chinese motors shouldn't be over a few hundred with a reducer. Art I wish I could get a servo motor for a $150 down under they sell for $1800 here,china Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ponygirl Report post Posted April 29, 2009 Hey everyone, thanks for all the help! I did purchase the machine yesterday for $400 with a new table and new 1/2 hp motor. I figured that wasn't half bad for a deal. It sews the chap leather with ease, We've sewn a few pieces of 14oz shirting leather together with no problems. But whew were you all right, this thing TAKES OFF when it catches! Gonna take some practice to get it down. It rolls for a few stitches too. I'm going to try and master this machines crazy speed without buying a servo or reducer, we'll see if I give in to the purchase after a week or so of crooked lines! I'm building a little table for it to create a flat surface. Anyways, I'll post some chaps once I get to that point Thanks again!! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Lea01 Report post Posted June 20, 2009 (edited) hi every one, Just passing on a what I have done, as well re: sewing machine peddles Some start with the hill of your foot presses down and the ball of your foot rests upon the peddle to excelerate it to go... with a pressor foot like that ,I've turned the foot around and press it like you would a vehical ( heal resting and ball of foot does the pressing ) while driving along with your heal of your foot is able to rest and easy functioning on the brain so to speak... I found that with these kinds of pressor feet by doing this, you how have full control over your sewing machine. Another good idea wen getting a used sewing machine or pulling out one from the closet for quite some time to save you alot of greif...is to take it in and have it lined up, and they will oil it as well. Beleave you me nothin like trying to sew and having the frustration of it not running very smothly and having to restich where you've made holes prior in your work... not funn at all... when thread does break when it goes in where the bobbon is most of the time it means that the timing is out what I found was with my older machine which I had bought some time ago and it was in storage (so I bought a new one) the new one has alot of plastic and compared to my older one -both having the same features pretty much..(fancy stitching) I prefure my oldder one over the newer one cause of the durability! When doing the turning of the matereal so that you are able to back stitch.. give it 2-3 back stiches the turn it back to the starting of how you sewing and give it 1 more stitch. remove the artical then pull one string so its firm with a little tug, then do the same with the 2nd string...it double locks in your stitching then cut the strings close to the fabric where the strings do come out on each side. This gives it a nice professional finished look as well Hope all is going well with your sewing etc lea01 Edited June 20, 2009 by Lea01 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
