Members ryano Posted April 22, 2009 Members Report Posted April 22, 2009 That book will show you what do without reverse. Really the only time I need reverse is when I make nylon halters. Keep in mind that you do not reverse with a leather needle as it will cut the thread. I think you will enjoy the book. The book and my dads old army 111w101 is how I got started in all of this leather work! lol Quote
Moderator bruce johnson Posted April 22, 2009 Moderator Report Posted April 22, 2009 Another trick to control speed on a clutch motor is to shove a tennis ball under the foot pedal. It will have some give, but also enough resistance to not run off with you at the start. One of the best tips I got from a guy was how to put your foot on the pedal. I was prone ( like a lot of folks I am sure) to stick the ball of my foot on the pedal, and treat it like an accelerater. He had me put my whole foot from heel to end of my bigtoe on the pedal. When I needed to go I loaded my toe, when I needed to slow or stop I loaded my heel. I didn't have to rely on lifting my foot off and the return spring to slow things down. THAT made a huge difference. Especially since some clutch motors tend to coast when you release the pedal. Also be aware they may run for a few cycles immediately after you turn them off and accidentally hit the pedal. I have tried machines in shops with and without speed reducers and servo motors. They are just part of the deal for me now. I rarely have to reach up and grab the flywheel to start or stop. If you have a spouse to train on one, it shortens the learning curve, you don't say bad words to them, and so they still cook your dinner. I know not all servo motors are the same. Mine have a dial that limits the top end speed. You can dial it down to go slow and up to let it rip. I can only compare one machine I had with a clutch vs. a servo motor, but I had to handwheel the clutch fairly often to start slow, the servo I didn't need to nearly as much. It had more punch. The servos I have stop dead and no coasting when you release the pedal. No run on when they are off either. Quote Bruce Johnson Malachi 4:2 "the windshield's bigger than the mirror, somewhere west of Laramie" - Dave Stamey Vintage Refurbished And Selected New Leather Tools For Sale - www.brucejohnsonleather.com
Members SteveBrambley Posted April 26, 2009 Members Report Posted April 26, 2009 That book will show you what do without reverse. Really the only time I need reverse is when I make nylon halters. Keep in mind that you do not reverse with a leather needle as it will cut the thread. I think you will enjoy the book. The book and my dads old army 111w101 is how I got started in all of this leather work! lol If you don't use reverse with a leather point needle, how do you lock off your seams? I have been using reverse for years, and very rarely had any problems with the thread being cut. Steve Quote
Moderator Art Posted April 26, 2009 Moderator Report Posted April 26, 2009 Hi Steve, I'm preaching to the chior here: I tend to sew with smaller needles than I should for a particular look I like, and if anyone should cut a thread, then it should be me. That being said, in the five or six years I have been using a machine with reverse and the 10 or more years I've been using a Campbell needle and awl, I have never cut a thread on a backtack and even doing a triple lock on starting (forward, back, forward). This is using a "D" needle or a wedge awl. I'm not too hip about sticking a block of wood under a clutch machine pedal to control speed, once the clutch fully grabbs, there isn't any control of speed so a block of wood ain't buying you mutch. I would prefer foam or a rubber ball under the pedal, or a big spring to tension the pedal. When new, the clutch comes in hard and fast and they usually come adjusted with the clutch coming in right after the brake lets off. I adjust this so there is a fair amount of "room" between brake and clutch. This is a lesson learned after reaching up to handwheel something, taking the brake off, and then having the clutch engage, believe me the clutch comes in way faster than you can let go. Hand dragging the wheel is another technique I don't care to teach in the forum, she should get an experienced operator to show her that in person. Art If you don't use reverse with a leather point needle, how do you lock off your seams? I have been using reverse for years, and very rarely had any problems with the thread being cut.Steve Quote For heaven's sakes pilgrim, make yourself a strop!
Members china Posted April 27, 2009 Members Report Posted April 27, 2009 I wish I could get a servo motor for a $150 down under they sell for $1800 here, china Quote
Moderator Art Posted April 27, 2009 Moderator Report Posted April 27, 2009 Hi China, An Efka needle positioning motor doesn't sell for anywhere near that, and unless your import duties are astronomical, even the best Chinese motors shouldn't be over a few hundred with a reducer. Art I wish I could get a servo motor for a $150 down under they sell for $1800 here,china Quote For heaven's sakes pilgrim, make yourself a strop!
Members ponygirl Posted April 29, 2009 Author Members Report Posted April 29, 2009 Hey everyone, thanks for all the help! I did purchase the machine yesterday for $400 with a new table and new 1/2 hp motor. I figured that wasn't half bad for a deal. It sews the chap leather with ease, We've sewn a few pieces of 14oz shirting leather together with no problems. But whew were you all right, this thing TAKES OFF when it catches! Gonna take some practice to get it down. It rolls for a few stitches too. I'm going to try and master this machines crazy speed without buying a servo or reducer, we'll see if I give in to the purchase after a week or so of crooked lines! I'm building a little table for it to create a flat surface. Anyways, I'll post some chaps once I get to that point Thanks again!! Quote
Members Lea01 Posted June 20, 2009 Members Report Posted June 20, 2009 (edited) hi every one, Just passing on a what I have done, as well re: sewing machine peddles Some start with the hill of your foot presses down and the ball of your foot rests upon the peddle to excelerate it to go... with a pressor foot like that ,I've turned the foot around and press it like you would a vehical ( heal resting and ball of foot does the pressing ) while driving along with your heal of your foot is able to rest and easy functioning on the brain so to speak... I found that with these kinds of pressor feet by doing this, you how have full control over your sewing machine. Another good idea wen getting a used sewing machine or pulling out one from the closet for quite some time to save you alot of greif...is to take it in and have it lined up, and they will oil it as well. Beleave you me nothin like trying to sew and having the frustration of it not running very smothly and having to restich where you've made holes prior in your work... not funn at all... when thread does break when it goes in where the bobbon is most of the time it means that the timing is out what I found was with my older machine which I had bought some time ago and it was in storage (so I bought a new one) the new one has alot of plastic and compared to my older one -both having the same features pretty much..(fancy stitching) I prefure my oldder one over the newer one cause of the durability! When doing the turning of the matereal so that you are able to back stitch.. give it 2-3 back stiches the turn it back to the starting of how you sewing and give it 1 more stitch. remove the artical then pull one string so its firm with a little tug, then do the same with the 2nd string...it double locks in your stitching then cut the strings close to the fabric where the strings do come out on each side. This gives it a nice professional finished look as well Hope all is going well with your sewing etc lea01 Edited June 20, 2009 by Lea01 Quote
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