Top stitching belts and straps

[UKRay]

My lovely new Highlead sewing machine is now in place, complete with its shiny new silent servo motor, just waiting for me to get my act together enough to use it properly. I'd like to be able to top stitch belts and straps but find myself drifting away from the edge as I stitch up the length of the belt.

I'm currently using my fingers as a guide but I wonder if I should bite the bullet and spend the money on a roller guide to make the job easier. Can anyone tell me how to use one of these things and has anyone got any other tips for me on keeping the stitching straight.

And yes, Luke. I am going to practice a lot!

[HarryB]

Hey, UK, Practice, Practice, Practice. No, really; the edge guide will help tremendously regardless of how much you practice. Go ahead and get one. A little off topic, but I realized when I read your post what I don't like about the servo motors: they are silent! My mother was a tailor and sat at her loyal old Singer 31-15 machine for 10 - 12 hours a day. I'm sure I heard the whir and purr of the motor even before I was born. Thing is now some almost 60 years later, I'm still sewing on that same machine. I think the whir of the motor is probably calming when I screw something up! Good luck with your stitch guide.

[celticleather]

I have a roller guide on my Tippmann, and it works very well. On my other machines I usually just use a Yale-type key, taped to the arm with masking tape. I put the needle through a piece of scrap leather at the appropriate distance from the edge, slide the rounded end of the key up against it, and secure in place with a couple of wraps around the arm. I don't use the Yale key for any particular reason . . . we just have lots of them laying around, and they're about the right thickness!

[hidepounder]

It just takes practice, Ray. I encourage people to get the guide, however, I don't use them. I wanted to be able control the stitching freehand and practiced to the point that I can now do that. When stitching a long straight run I have learned to position my fingers on the machine to act as a guide and this has served me very well. I also took the needle presser foot off...ground the nose off so I could see the needle penetrate the leather and that made a big difference for me.

Have fun!

Bob

[DJ1935]

Hi Ray, we got our new 441 about a month ago and it came with an edge guide which is almost the same as the one on the #6 Pearson - indespensible for long straps and neat edges around curves. My question is how do you prevent that mesmerising "white line fever" effect when you do long straps?

Harry's right about the silent motor - its' eerie and dangerous if the machine was left on and unattended for some reason - phone rings, neighbour turns up etc etc and a child or pet steps on the pedal. Thankfully we have neither to worry about but a light wired into the switch would be a great assistance in knowing the machine was on or not.

Happy sewing

DJ

[Luke Hatley]

DJ1935.....in the John Bianchi holster video he sugest painting the center foot RED

I DID and i can keep an eye on the sewing much better.

on my servo motor i have a swichbox wired in and with the on-off switch there is a light.

that lets you know when it is on.

[5shot]

I use the guide on belts, as it allows you to use both hands if needed. If you use your finger as the guide (which does work quite well), that hand is stuck there for the duration.

[esantoro]

I use the guide for straps.

On everything else I crease a stitch line in case I need to move the guide away and eyeball it.

Red paint on the center foot sounds like a good idea.

ed

[Suze]

I use the guide for straps.

On everything else I crease a stitch line in case I need to move the guide away and eyeball it.

Red paint on the center foot sounds like a good idea.

ed

what -- you don't have a fancy dancy gaget for that too

[barra]

It just takes practice, Ray. I encourage people to get the guide, however, I don't use them. I wanted to be able control the stitching freehand and practiced to the point that I can now do that. When stitching a long straight run I have learned to position my fingers on the machine to act as a guide and this has served me very well. I also took the needle presser foot off...ground the nose off so I could see the needle penetrate the leather and that made a big difference for me.

Have fun!

Bob

I'm with Bob here. What works for one individual may not work for another. When teaching sewing, we would give the students a couple of methods and let them choose or develop their own methods. For me I don't use a guide. If I am stitching into a grooved/raced channel I forget the foot exists and concentrate on the needle. If I am sewing a seam I position my foot at my desired seam allowance from the edge and when sewing I keep the edge of the foot at that distance from the edge. It does take practice and comes together eventually like muscle memory. I think a dob of paint would assist as a guide.

Also when I sew as soon as I sit at the machine I push my heal onto the base of the pedal (brake). I never apply pressure to the top of the pedal until I am darn sure I want to commence sewing. As soon as I have stopped a run, the heal goes back to the brake. This has become a drill and I don't even think about doing it (saves oopsies).

Also when teaching we would make it a drill that as soon as stitching had stopped the students were made to turn off and dissipate power. I never dissipate power now but we had to teach it due to the PC OCC health and safety world we live in.

Barra

Barra

[Suze]

that pretty blue painters tape works quite well on my REGULAR sewing machine

so did clear tape and a marking pen - -put clear tape down, mark it - cover with another piece of tape to keep marks off of your material

but the important part is watching the needle for me too. and keeping foot off of the "accelorator" when you don't need it there.

[Bree]

I use a roller guide and other kinds of guides as well. Weaver sells a nice guide plate for their Adler machines. They aren't hard to make.

I can stitch without the guide but it is more work for me. Lord knows I have enough work without making more for myself. So I like anything that simplifies my sewing.

On my midweight Juki machine I use special topstitching feet with a little spring-loaded "wall" that I run along the edge of whatever I am sewing. It saves a lot of time and helps make sewing irregular items a lot easier.

BUT... you still have to concentrate and follow the needle regardless of the guide. I have failed to do that on a bunch of occasions with very very sad and sometimes expensive results.

[UKRay]

Loads of good advice, so many thanks friends!

I'm a little afraid of filing bits off the machine at present but I recognise the value of all your suggestions. Currently my needle goes through a little hole in the foot which makes it pretty hard to see it enter the leather and harder still to keep the stitching accurate. I may just have to get rid of the hole - unless anyone can tell me why I shouldn't? Then the bit behind the needle can get a blob of red paint and hopefully I'm fit to go!

I'm going to get a roller guide to help me get used to the way the machine works but I can see how Bob's hand control thing could work for me so I'll be trying that too.

I do find myself fixating on steering the leather and forgetting to pedal 'slowly' so the machine gets faster and faster... Muchos scary!

More practice, more practice, more practice.... LOL

[hidepounder]

Loads of good advice, so many thanks friends!

I'm a little afraid of filing bits off the machine at present but I recognise the value of all your suggestions. Currently my needle goes through a little hole in the foot which makes it pretty hard to see it enter the leather and harder still to keep the stitching accurate. I may just have to get rid of the hole - unless anyone can tell me why I shouldn't? Then the bit behind the needle can get a blob of red paint and hopefully I'm fit to go!

I'm going to get a roller guide to help me get used to the way the machine works but I can see how Bob's hand control thing could work for me so I'll be trying that too.

I do find myself fixating on steering the leather and forgetting to pedal 'slowly' so the machine gets faster and faster... Muchos scary!

More practice, more practice, more practice.... LOL

Ray,

I was concerned about modifing my needle presser foot also and finally decided that the worst thing that could happen was that I'd have to buy a new presser foot. Art or someone else may know of a good reason not to do this, but I haven't heard one mentioned yet. I think the purpose of the long foot may be to make it easier for the presser foot to climb on thickening material, but on my machine that function hasen't really been affected. If I'm not mistaken, Troy West said he did the same thing with his new (Toro?). I didn't dream this up....I saw a new machine set up that way in a show in Pomona, CA. I don't remember the brand, it was similar to my Adler so I went for it! Nine years later, I'm still sewing with that modified foot.

Hope this helps,

Bob

Edited May 3, 2009 by hidepounder

[UKRay]

It helps a lot, Bob. I'm going to take a file to the little hole in a few minutes simply because i can't see any reason not to. I suspect the 'hole' has a purpose that is not linked to leather - my foot is not a specialist leather foot, just the standard one fitted as new. It probably protects the needle from fabric 'rucking up' and jamming things up. Leather isn't going to do that so I feel quite safe. Your post has given me the confidence to do the obvious...

Thanks.

Ray,

I was concerned about modifing my needle presser foot also and finally decided that the worst thing that could happen was that I'd have to buy a new presser foot. Art or someone else may know of a good reason not to do this, but I haven't heard one mentioned yet. I think the purpose of the long foot may be to make it easier for the presser foot to climb on thickening material, but on my machine that function hasen't really been affected. If I'm not mistaken, Troy West said he did the same thing with his new (Toro?). I didn't dream this up....I saw a new machine set up that way in a show in Pomona, CA. I don't remember the brand, it was similar to my Adler so I went for it! Nine years later, I'm still sewing with that modified foot.

Hope this helps,

Bob

[hidepounder]

It helps a lot, Bob. I'm going to take a file to the little hole in a few minutes simply because i can't see any reason not to. I suspect the 'hole' has a purpose that is not linked to leather - my foot is not a specialist leather foot, just the standard one fitted as new. It probably protects the needle from fabric 'rucking up' and jamming things up. Leather isn't going to do that so I feel quite safe. Your post has given me the confidence to do the obvious...

Thanks.

Ray,

I don't know if removing the entire hole is necessary. I think I'd just try opening up the front so that you can see in, first. Leave the rest of the foot around the needle just to keep the leather in place.

Bob

[superchute]

Ray we just did that to our new toro. Dad cut and smothed out about 25% or the loop in the front and now you can see the needle going helps a lot and love it

Russ

[UKRay]

For one reason or another I didn't get around to doing that filing job today (got busy making stuff) but I'm planning on doing it asap. Anyone know why the little ring of metal is there on the foot? What purpose does it serve?

Ray we just did that to our new toro. Dad cut and smothed out about 25% or the loop in the front and now you can see the needle going helps a lot and love it

Russ

[Suze]

my best guess Ray would be if you are using the machine to sew thin stuff - sany canvas or thin leather it is to keep the thread from draging the material up with the needle.

as I noticed the Toro that Johanna has - the presser foot is pretty "open" not like a "regular sewing machine"

Oh and I had a thought on how to keep your machine from going "light speed" when you don't want it too

put a block of wood under the pedal so that it can only depress so far and no more. Built in speed control.

[Art]

Hi Ray,

The best way is to dig a groove and sew in it. You can also press a groove with a screw crease, just wet the leather and crease it, you don't need to get it hot. I used the roller edge guide, and haven't used it in years, a finger works about the same, I learned that way on the Campbell where the slowest speed was fast. If you are sewing an intricate pattern (and a holster qualifies for that) groove it; it takes a little while to be comfortable, but pretty soon, you don't even think about it, kind of like backing up a semi (or articulated lorry?).

If you want an edge guide, pm me with your addr, I have a few somewhere around here.

Art

My lovely new Highlead sewing machine is now in place, complete with its shiny new silent servo motor, just waiting for me to get my act together enough to use it properly. I'd like to be able to top stitch belts and straps but find myself drifting away from the edge as I stitch up the length of the belt.

I'm currently using my fingers as a guide but I wonder if I should bite the bullet and spend the money on a roller guide to make the job easier. Can anyone tell me how to use one of these things and has anyone got any other tips for me on keeping the stitching straight.

And yes, Luke. I am going to practice a lot!

[hidepounder]

Hi Ray,

The best way is to dig a groove and sew in it. You can also press a groove with a screw crease, just wet the leather and crease it, you don't need to get it hot. I used the roller edge guide, and haven't used it in years, a finger works about the same, I learned that way on the Campbell where the slowest speed was fast. If you are sewing an intricate pattern (and a holster qualifies for that) groove it; it takes a little while to be comfortable, but pretty soon, you don't even think about it, kind of like backing up a semi (or articulated lorry?).

If you want an edge guide, pm me with your addr, I have a few somewhere around here.

Art

Art,

I have removed the "nose" of the inside presser foot on my Adler, so that I can see where I'm sewing. Have used it that way for 8 or 9 years and it really helped me....what I don't know is if there is any down side or hazard in doing this. What are your thoughts about these kind of modifications?

Bob

[UKRay]

Art,

I have removed the "nose" of the inside presser foot on my Adler, so that I can see where I'm sewing. Have used it that way for 8 or 9 years and it really helped me....what I don't know is if there is any down side or hazard in doing this. What are your thoughts about these kind of modifications?

Bob

I just spoke to Braithwaites, the UK suppliers for Highlead and their technical guy said the little circle of metal was simply a needle guard to stop people from poking their fingers under a descending needle. I said I didn't feel any urge to poke my fingers in there so the guy said there was no reason to keep it.

Just for information, Braithwaites are the UK dealers for Highlead machines but they only stock a basic foot and suggest that anyone who needs anything different should file bits off the foot they supply until it does what the person requires. This seems a little savage to me but...

Prices in the UK bear no relationship to US prices and, in the main, are much more expensive. Sadly the shipping costs pretty well kill any potential savings on bobbins and small stuff. The basic foot seems a fair bit cheaper than any of the feet sold in the US but tthere are no other accessories available. You can forget any kind of plate, harness foot etc.

Ray

[badger]

Ray,

If you need mods done to a basic foot, bring one when you visit and we'll chop the little sod down

Badger

[Art]

Hi Bob,

On the center presser foot modifications, you cut a small slot or v-notch so you can see where the needle enters the leather, leaving as much of the original foot as possible. Then you have to polish the hell out of everything using sand cloth, sand string, or whatever so that the thread (upper) will not catch on the foot. I usually deep six the skeg too. As far as that guard wire thingy that they put on the new machines/feet to keep you from doing stupid things, that gets lost after about 10 minutes.

Art

Art,

I have removed the "nose" of the inside presser foot on my Adler, so that I can see where I'm sewing. Have used it that way for 8 or 9 years and it really helped me....what I don't know is if there is any down side or hazard in doing this. What are your thoughts about these kind of modifications?

Bob

[hidepounder]

Hi Bob,

On the center presser foot modifications, you cut a small slot or v-notch so you can see where the needle enters the leather, leaving as much of the original foot as possible. Then you have to polish the hell out of everything using sand cloth, sand string, or whatever so that the thread (upper) will not catch on the foot. I usually deep six the skeg too. As far as that guard wire thingy that they put on the new machines/feet to keep you from doing stupid things, that gets lost after about 10 minutes.

Art

Thanks, Art, I feel better knowing that I haven't created a future problem. It's worked well for me for several years, but I know that doesn't mean I might not be in for a surprise! Now I won't worry about it!

Bob