Jump to content

Recommended Posts

HI ALL. WHAT WOULD BE THE BEST APPROACH FOR WET MOLDING THE FRONT OF A HOLSTER AND LEAVING THE BACK FLAT? I HAVE THOUGHT ABOUT CUTTING A BLANK OUT OF SOMETHING THIN AND RIGID TO THE SHAPE OF MY POCKET AND THEN INSERTING IT IN THE HOLSTER PRIOR TO INSERTING THE GUN BUT IM NOT SURE IF THAT WOULD WORK.

THANKS IN ADVANCE.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have cut out a wooden copy of the 1911 and used the oscilating sander to get a good close scale copy,3 coats of poly and attached it to a backer board of plywood also poly'd.Then I made a outside cutout allowing for the Leathers Thickness,beveled those edges and again poly'd that piece.Now by casing the L well you sandwitch your L between those froms and allow it to dry,usually over night.Now you will have your top piece to trim and sew to your back!If prepared correctly and poly'd well can be used repeatedly.I close the forms and hold them together with "C" clamps.Hope you find this helpful!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
HI ALL. WHAT WOULD BE THE BEST APPROACH FOR WET MOLDING THE FRONT OF A HOLSTER AND LEAVING THE BACK FLAT? I HAVE THOUGHT ABOUT CUTTING A BLANK OUT OF SOMETHING THIN AND RIGID TO THE SHAPE OF MY POCKET AND THEN INSERTING IT IN THE HOLSTER PRIOR TO INSERTING THE GUN BUT IM NOT SURE IF THAT WOULD WORK.

THANKS IN ADVANCE.

I use a small squirt bottle and just apply the water to one side after the holster is made. I then carefully insert the pistol and mould it in.... I think your idea of a thin/rigid blank made of platic or something similar is a good idea and should work well.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have to do this at times, . . . I sew down the front of the holster, setting the cant for the rig. I then SOAK the outside piece, . . . and I mean SOAK.

After allowing it to drip & flash dry for a few minutes, . . . I position the weapon where I eventually want it to lay, . . . and begin to mold the outside piece of leather with my fingers and thumbs, . . . and a few other tools as needed. Most of the molding is done in less than 90 seconds with my fingers and thumbs, . . . then the outside piece is marked so I know exactly where to put it back down, . . . it's lifted up and the weapon extracted. Move the holster back together and lay aside for 24 hours or so to dry, . . . cut to size, cement, stitch, finish, . . . voila, . . . cash!!!!

May God bless,

Dwight

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


×
×
  • Create New...