zaptoid Report post Posted May 24, 2009 HI ALL. WHAT WOULD BE THE BEST APPROACH FOR WET MOLDING THE FRONT OF A HOLSTER AND LEAVING THE BACK FLAT? I HAVE THOUGHT ABOUT CUTTING A BLANK OUT OF SOMETHING THIN AND RIGID TO THE SHAPE OF MY POCKET AND THEN INSERTING IT IN THE HOLSTER PRIOR TO INSERTING THE GUN BUT IM NOT SURE IF THAT WOULD WORK. THANKS IN ADVANCE. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rhall Report post Posted May 24, 2009 I have cut out a wooden copy of the 1911 and used the oscilating sander to get a good close scale copy,3 coats of poly and attached it to a backer board of plywood also poly'd.Then I made a outside cutout allowing for the Leathers Thickness,beveled those edges and again poly'd that piece.Now by casing the L well you sandwitch your L between those froms and allow it to dry,usually over night.Now you will have your top piece to trim and sew to your back!If prepared correctly and poly'd well can be used repeatedly.I close the forms and hold them together with "C" clamps.Hope you find this helpful! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Freedom Report post Posted May 24, 2009 HI ALL. WHAT WOULD BE THE BEST APPROACH FOR WET MOLDING THE FRONT OF A HOLSTER AND LEAVING THE BACK FLAT? I HAVE THOUGHT ABOUT CUTTING A BLANK OUT OF SOMETHING THIN AND RIGID TO THE SHAPE OF MY POCKET AND THEN INSERTING IT IN THE HOLSTER PRIOR TO INSERTING THE GUN BUT IM NOT SURE IF THAT WOULD WORK.THANKS IN ADVANCE. I use a small squirt bottle and just apply the water to one side after the holster is made. I then carefully insert the pistol and mould it in.... I think your idea of a thin/rigid blank made of platic or something similar is a good idea and should work well. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dwight Report post Posted May 25, 2009 I have to do this at times, . . . I sew down the front of the holster, setting the cant for the rig. I then SOAK the outside piece, . . . and I mean SOAK. After allowing it to drip & flash dry for a few minutes, . . . I position the weapon where I eventually want it to lay, . . . and begin to mold the outside piece of leather with my fingers and thumbs, . . . and a few other tools as needed. Most of the molding is done in less than 90 seconds with my fingers and thumbs, . . . then the outside piece is marked so I know exactly where to put it back down, . . . it's lifted up and the weapon extracted. Move the holster back together and lay aside for 24 hours or so to dry, . . . cut to size, cement, stitch, finish, . . . voila, . . . cash!!!! May God bless, Dwight Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites