Bryan Report post Posted June 10, 2009 This is a Tandy kit I did for a friend at work. He didn't have any specific ideas for the design, so I just tuned up the included pattern a bit. I was really happy w/ the project till I folded it at the very end & the surface CRACKED! I can't begin to express the frustration I felt! How can I prevent this in the future? Thanks, Bryan Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Spider Report post Posted June 10, 2009 Looks good. Keep making stuff. Kits are cool as a more simple project that allows you to focus on the art. At least that's how I use them. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bran7347 Report post Posted June 10, 2009 Hey Brian, your work looks really good. I did one of those kits a few weeks back and had no trouble with it cracking. What I did is after i tooled it and the leather was still moist I folded it and let it dry to the finished shape. Then finished it and laced it. I'm not sure if this was the proper process, but it worked for me. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wildrose Report post Posted June 10, 2009 Though it's been rare for me, I've had cracking on folds too. What I did after was to take some shoe polish (matching the leather stain color) to the cracking and rub it in. As to preventing it from happening, I think the "working the fold while the leather is wet" is your best bet. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
King's X Report post Posted June 10, 2009 I agree with Wildrose and Bran, but I wanted to add a couple of things to consider. 1. Your leather? Before I start and pretty much during the whole process, I usually bend it back and forth in the state that it will be used. You will usually feel whether it is rough or not giving, etc. Some lower end leathers do this, some higher end stuff does not. Just depends. 2. Forming the leather while wet to the shape that it will stay in is probably the best idea. You also want to glue your interior in that same shape to keep it that way. I remember I did a bracelet where I use the tri weave stamp and when I played with the leather before adding the final coat of sheen, it felt rough and somewhat non forgiving. After placing the sheen on it and letting it dry, I went back to play with it and folded back and forth and then heard the 'crack, crack.' Next thing I see it the actual tri weave pieces tearing off the interior and following to the floor. I caught major hell at the guild meeting for this same story and was nicknamed 'Thor' because they thought I just stamped right through the leather. I've been there no once, but twice. I feel your pain! Try wet forming it and play with your leather. Let it talk to you or just upgrade to a higher quality of leather? Choice is yours.....good luck! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pete Report post Posted June 10, 2009 VERY nice work! I have a card holder kit too from TLF. One thing that you should keep in mind when doing any project is the amount and depth of tooling/pattern that will occur at a fold or bend point. When drawing my patterns I always keep that in mind. The top of the leather is where the strength is and should be semi-avioded when tooling or stamping a piece that will get continuous folding. Again- really nice tooling and color!!!!! pete Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
whinewine Report post Posted June 10, 2009 Just a simple question: how heavy did you apply the finish? Some people apply a really thick application of finish & it will crack because it mostly sits on the surface & doesn't soak into the leather. This is especially prevalent with a lacquer finish like neatlac, but I've also seen it with super shene. russ Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bryan Report post Posted June 11, 2009 Thanks a lot for all the info. What a big help! Whinewin, I used ecoflow satin sheen to seal & I did try to lay it on fairly heavy thinking it would hold up better/longer. Is this not the case? Again, thanks all. Much appreciated. -Bryan Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
HARVEY Report post Posted June 11, 2009 Bryan, This is NOT about the cracking problem. Rather, your workmanship. It looks quite good. Thus I'd suggest, if you can afford it, buy a quality (custom) basketweave stamp where the rope braid impression will come out clear and distinct. With your apparent quality of work and good coloring, a custom tool ( from Barry King, Wayne Jueschke, Gomph-Hackbarth, etc.) will enhance your work that much more. Basketweaves should start around $50, give-or-take. Harvey Los Angeles Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bryan Report post Posted June 11, 2009 Bryan,This is NOT about the cracking problem. Rather, your workmanship. It looks quite good. Thus I'd suggest, if you can afford it, buy a quality (custom) basketweave stamp where the rope braid impression will come out clear and distinct. With your apparent quality of work and good coloring, a custom tool ( from Barry King, Wayne Jueschke, Gomph-Hackbarth, etc.) will enhance your work that much more. Basketweaves should start around $50, give-or-take. Harvey Los Angeles Thanks Harvey! I will definitely look in to such a purchase. I'm planing to make the Elco Nv. show in July where I can see these tools in person. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites