Problem with stitches on the back....

[hidepounder]

This is a question for all you sewing machine gurus......

When stitching belts and other lined items, my stitches on top look good, but those in back look bad. I typically use 138/99 with a 14 needle or 99/69 with a 12 needle. I'm using a Artisan 797AB, but I have the same problem, to a lesser degree, with my Adler 205/370. The thread size doesn't seem to make much difference. The back side stitches don't pull up nice and tight like the top does. Some of the lining material I use is thin....2 oz....but is much firmer than the leather on top....I wondered if that was part of the problem. It seems like increasing tension doesn't help the stitches tighten up any. Do I need to use a larger needle to allow the stitch to pull into the leather?

I also have this problem when sewing the skived folded end of a belt where I'm transitioning from 10 oz leather to 5/6 oz leather. Everything looks good until I transition to the lighter leather. I have frequently noticed this on other peoples work as well. My goal is to make the stitches on the botton look as good as those on the top....am I asking too much or using the wrong set-up?

Suggestions?

Thanks,

Bob

[esantoro]

how would you describe the tension on the bobbin thread when you pull the thread out by hand? Does it pull out very freely or a bit snugly or tighter.

I find on my 441, especially when I'm using a variety of leather thicknesses and changing thread brands and sizes, that I must periodically make adjustments to bobbin tension. I want the thread to pull out easily but with a bit of a snug feel in the tension.

ed

This is a question for all you sewing machine gurus......

When stitching belts and other lined items, my stitches on top look good, but those in back look bad. I typically use 138/99 with a 14 needle or 99/69 with a 12 needle. I'm using a Artisan 797AB, but I have the same problem, to a lesser degree, with my Adler 205/370. The thread size doesn't seem to make much difference. The back side stitches don't pull up nice and tight like the top does. Some of the lining material I use is thin....2 oz....but is much firmer than the leather on top....I wondered if that was part of the problem. It seems like increasing tension doesn't help the stitches tighten up any. Do I need to use a larger needle to allow the stitch to pull into the leather?

I also have this problem when sewing the skived folded end of a belt where I'm transitioning from 10 oz leather to 5/6 oz leather. Everything looks good until I transition to the lighter leather. I have frequently noticed this on other peoples work as well. My goal is to make the stitches on the botton look as good as those on the top....am I asking too much or using the wrong set-up?

Suggestions?

Thanks,

Bob

[hidepounder]

They're fairly snug, Ed. I think the problem is the stiff lining material doesn't want to allow the thread and loop back into the hole....? It's doesn't happen with soft material or when the flesh side is exposed.

Bob

[Art]

Hi Bob,

I usually use a #19 with 138/138 and that is smaller than I should and I occasionally break or bend a needle going up or down (usually down) hill. I know it looks great with small holes (that's why I use a 19), but could you be a little snug?

Art

This is a question for all you sewing machine gurus......

When stitching belts and other lined items, my stitches on top look good, but those in back look bad. I typically use 138/99 with a 14 needle or 99/69 with a 12 needle. I'm using a Artisan 797AB, but I have the same problem, to a lesser degree, with my Adler 205/370. The thread size doesn't seem to make much difference. The back side stitches don't pull up nice and tight like the top does. Some of the lining material I use is thin....2 oz....but is much firmer than the leather on top....I wondered if that was part of the problem. It seems like increasing tension doesn't help the stitches tighten up any. Do I need to use a larger needle to allow the stitch to pull into the leather?

I also have this problem when sewing the skived folded end of a belt where I'm transitioning from 10 oz leather to 5/6 oz leather. Everything looks good until I transition to the lighter leather. I have frequently noticed this on other peoples work as well. My goal is to make the stitches on the botton look as good as those on the top....am I asking too much or using the wrong set-up?

Suggestions?

Thanks,

Bob

[rhall]

Hey guys I set up my Cowboy cl 4 this wkend and at first it worked fine on 2x7-8oz then it started pulling the lower thread up to be visable from the top and a tangled mess on the back side!I hope I can get straightened out also,It sounds like atension issue as well.

[Art]

Hi Bob,

Did you get the Video? Hold the loose ends tight for a few stitches, back off the tension a little, don't force the leather, let the machine move it, don't sew over your tails, always complete the stitch, thread tension bar all the way to the top. Assuming you have a Cobra instead of a Cowboy, call Steve, otherwise call Ryan.

If all else fails, I can drop by after work one day, you're down 4 right? I work in Suitland.

Art

Hey guys I set up my Cowboy cl 4 this wkend and at first it worked fine on 2x7-8oz then it started pulling the lower thread up to be visable from the top and a tangled mess on the back side!I hope I can get straightened out also,It sounds like atension issue as well.

[hidepounder]

Thanks Art!

Sounds like I need to go larger! The truth is, when I started sewing, I copied a needle/thread chart out of the Weaver catalog and that's where I came up with those needle sizes. I'll try the larger needle.

Bob

[rhall]

Thanks Art I did not get any video,Is it from Steve?I sure am glad you are there and I'll call Steve.It is a Cobra and it came with a mess of #25 needles and I have been trying some 346 tread.I am very impressed so far , just need to learn to drive the "Beast"LOL

[Art]

Hi Bob,

Ask Steve about the video, he is a great lifeline that comes with every machine. Also, check your thread path and make sure the thread is coming off the spool cleanly and nothing is interfering with it, like being wrapped around the bottom of the thread stand. A little extra tension on top will cause your problem.

Art

Thanks Art I did not get any video,Is it from Steve?I sure am glad you are there and I'll call Steve.It is a Cobra and it came with a mess of #25 needles and I have been trying some 346 tread.I am very impressed so far , just need to learn to drive the "Beast"LOL

[Bree]

Bob...

I wonder if this isn't a problem that is unavoidable with any sewing machine sewing leather. If you think about what is happening there is a difference between the top and bottom because of what the needle is doing. On the top it punches a hole going down or into the leather. The edges of the hole are smooth and well defined. The thread looks good coming out or going into the hole.

On the bottom it's a different ball game. The needle punches through and pushes the leather OUT versus IN. The edge of the hole is more ragged. It's like the difference between a bullet going through front and back. The back is a lot messier so it won't ever look as good.

That's my thought on it. I have the same problem and could never get tension to fix it. You don't see the problem when sewing fabric because the needle is not cutting and pushing through, it is finding an opening in the warp and woof of the fabric... parting it.