First shoulder holster

[Shorts]

A friend asked me to build him a conceal carry shoulder rig. He says he doesn't mind being a guinea pig. He needs it to carry 2 separate guns, semi & revolver (read: holster must be modular).

Works for me.

I'm going to have this thread as a running build because I have tons of questions about each portion of this rig.

Right now I'm building a mock-up with scraps so I can get a feel for the process. I want to take it with me on Sunday to the range to give him an idea of how his will be fashioned.

First part, central back 'X' and shoulder straps:

^^ like how I bounce my maker's stamp for a nice blurred effect?

^^ This X has what I imagine are plenty of priorities. Strength, flexibility and comfort.

Strength - needs to be durable not to fall apart

Flexibility - each strap joint needs to pivot to move with the wearer

Comfort - comfort, not pokey or itchy or sharp or annoying or....just comfortable

This X and 4 straps are from 4/5oz scraps. I thought that they'll be flexible enough and strong enough without being too heavy. Is that going to help? Hurt? Comments?

You'll see I used Segma Snaps to joint the X and straps. I'm not intending this as the final hardware. Why I used them is because I want the joint to be able to pivot and the Segma snaps allow that (and that's what I have that works right now). Since it is mock-up, I need the function first. So my next question, what hardware should I be using here? I don't need the straps to be removable from the X. A more permanent joint seems acceptable. The hardware must be low profile for comfort and concealment. Ideas?

As for the rest of the strap, they are made to length, plus a plethora of holes for adjustable length, secured with a chicago screw. Straps are 1" width of 4/5oz.

Next plan of action is stitching the holster and mag pouch pieces. Holster will sit horizontally, mag pouch vertically (opening down)

What weight of leather should I use? Do I go with the regular 7/8oz? It is a holster afterall.

On each part I'm planning to utilize ears on top and bottom of the holster. The top ears will attach to the straps via Dring, and the bottom ear with attach to the stabilizer strap that goes to the belt.

I have not worked out details yet on how I want that. But I am thinking of putting DOT snaps on these ears and use that as the method of attachment through the Dring. Remember, the holster must be modular so that it can be worn with either gun. I will be making a specific holster for each gun.

Well that's it for now I guess. I'm off to the store to find some mockup Drings and elastic webbing. My OTB and Weaver catalogs are en route and I want to order good hardware from one of those places for all rigs here after.

Thanks yall!

[troop]

very interested in your set up. i have people hitting me up for shoulder rigs as well. i have to put them off until i have the time to start working on one. i was thinking of using 2/3 oz leather for the straps and 6/7 for the holster and ammo pouch. 7/8 would be fine though.

i carry a shoulder rig myself at work so i kind of have an idea of what i would do differenty. (not very much) i wouldn't dye the inside of the straps as the dye, no matter how well it's done will bleed some onto your shirts over time. i wear dress shirts and that ain't cool.

other than that you sound like you have it down. i was kinda worried however when i saw the segma snaps before reading the explanation. lol

i'll be very interested in seeing it progress.

[STBY]

Hi Monica,

I'm Mike and I have been around guns, military and law enforcement for awhile and have made many a holster/duty rigs for friends. So here are my .02 cents. First, the person your making it for are they small, medium or large framed? Second what size semi auto and revolver will be carried, barrel length? You mention carrying the gun horizontal, well if the person is small in stature and they want to carry a full size .45 1911 or 1911 long slide (6" barrel) or a revolver with a long barrel it will protrude out the back making it look obvious that they are carrying. Vertical or horizontal, I have done a slight 20-25 degree angle off of vertical which is nice and comfortable for carry and easy to draw the gun. Horizontal will also require a good retention device so it does not fall out, can't have a nice snug friction fit like on a belt holster, as the person goes to draw and the gun is stuck. You may already know that you will need to add buckles so the person can adjust the straps and also add one strap on the bottom of each holster that they can attach to their belt so the holsters do not flop around when walking or if they are a cop, chasing a bad guy. Hope this was helpful.

[Shorts]

very interested in your set up. i have people hitting me up for shoulder rigs as well. i have to put them off until i have the time to start working on one. i was thinking of using 2/3 oz leather for the straps and 6/7 for the holster and ammo pouch. 7/8 would be fine though.

i carry a shoulder rig myself at work so i kind of have an idea of what i would do differenty. (not very much) i wouldn't dye the inside of the straps as the dye, no matter how well it's done will bleed some onto your shirts over time. i wear dress shirts and that ain't cool.

other than that you sound like you have it down. i was kinda worried however when i saw the segma snaps before reading the explanation. lol

i'll be very interested in seeing it progress.

Thanks troop. You have what I don't but wish I did - perspective and experience wearing a shoulder rig. I've not the first clue what I'd do or change to make mine acceptable lol I do have 6/7oz available. It probably be a little more comfortable than the 7/8oz under there.

Yeah, glad you caught the explanation on the segma snaps. While I'd wear them on my belt, I won't put them in such a critical CCW area. I guess the last thing you'd need is the thing unsnapping and dropping to the floor in the middle of the grocery store. That would be awkward

Good input about the dye. While its a common knowledge thing about holsters and jeans and dye rub off, staining a good dress shirt will be a bit more annoying.

[Shorts]

Hi Monica,

I'm Mike and I have been around guns, military and law enforcement for awhile and have made many a holster/duty rigs for friends. So here are my .02 cents. First, the person your making it for are they small, medium or large framed? Second what size semi auto and revolver will be carried, barrel length? You mention carrying the gun horizontal, well if the person is small in stature and they want to carry a full size .45 1911 or 1911 long slide (6" barrel) or a revolver with a long barrel it will protrude out the back making it look obvious that they are carrying. Vertical or horizontal, I have done a slight 20-25 degree angle off of vertical which is nice and comfortable for carry and easy to draw the gun. Horizontal will also require a good retention device so it does not fall out, can't have a nice snug friction fit like on a belt holster, as the person goes to draw and the gun is stuck. You may already know that you will need to add buckles so the person can adjust the straps and also add one strap on the bottom of each holster that they can attach to their belt so the holsters do not flop around when walking or if they are a cop, chasing a bad guy. Hope this was helpful.

Very, thank you.

My customer is a larger gentleman. He'll be carrying a 3.5" semiauto S&W and a snub .44spl revolver. For conceal purposes, he'll have them well hidden front to back

For retention I'm planning on a thumb break and a retention screw on the holster. I normally mold my belt holsters pretty tight. But you are certainly correct, the draw pull cannot be as tight on the shoulder rig as the belt.

Thanks!

[troop]

STBY is right about the draw angle. i carry a full size 1911 horizontal and am thinking that a cant between the horizontal and vertical would make a draw much more comfortable.

[Shorts]

I'm all ears. I'll bring this point up to my customer and see what he thinks about it.

Thanks guys!

[Lobo]

Monica:

In my experience, the X-style harness does not support weight evenly and is very prone to shifting due to the weight of the holstered handgun. Unless there is some support on the off-side (such as a strap fastening to the belt) this will be a constant irritant in use and wear.

This is one of the most difficult problems to overcome in shoulder holster design. Concealed carry does not permit one to be constantly shifting the harness every time he gets into a car, gets out of a car, bends over, or otherwise exercises the normal movements of the body. In order to function as desired, the X-style harness requires equalization of the weight on both sides of the body, and even then can permit some shifting in normal movement.

For the direction that you are heading with this project I would suggest tie-down straps on both sides to anchor the weight to the belt via the harness. Even with these added, comfort can be an elusive dream with a shoulder holster for the heavier handguns.

Best regards.

[Shorts]

Thanks Lobo, I think the tie downs are a good idea.

I'm also considering a rear horizontal strap to connect the rear straps across the back.

[Dwight]

Monica:

In my experience, the X-style harness does not support weight evenly and is very prone to shifting due to the weight of the holstered handgun. Unless there is some support on the off-side (such as a strap fastening to the belt) this will be a constant irritant in use and wear.

This is one of the most difficult problems to overcome in shoulder holster design. Concealed carry does not permit one to be constantly shifting the harness every time he gets into a car, gets out of a car, bends over, or otherwise exercises the normal movements of the body. In order to function as desired, the X-style harness requires equalization of the weight on both sides of the body, and even then can permit some shifting in normal movement.

For the direction that you are heading with this project I would suggest tie-down straps on both sides to anchor the weight to the belt via the harness. Even with these added, comfort can be an elusive dream with a shoulder holster for the heavier handguns.

Best regards.

Lobo has some good points, . . . especially the shifting problem, . . . but I was successful in overcoming it without resorting to tie downs.

The first shoulder rig I had, I bought, . . . and it had probably 1 to maybe 1 1/8 wide straps of 6 oz leather for the "X" strapping. I gave it away.

I then used some of the ideas there to make my shoulder holster that I still have and use.

It is a horizontal carry, thumb break, and I purposely pulled it up close under my left arm, and allowed the off hand to hang a bit lower (after trial and error, found this works well for me), . . . and the off hand is a double mag pouch that opens down and carries two ea. 8 rd mags.

My straps are suede, . . . tend to widen at the top of the soulders to almost 2 inches and narrow as they approach the holster or mag pouch.

I have never needed any kind of belt strap, . . . it does not shift or move, . . . and I carry a full size RIA 1911, all steel, w/9 rounds in it.

I also used a round piece of 5 oz leather for my attachment point in the back, . . . using 24 line snaps from Tandy, . . . it has never come apart, . . . and swivels nicely as it needs to.

I also did not mold the holster, but lined it with suede (sewn, . . . not cemented) and just "crumpled" the leather a bit before I put it all together so the holster leather is a bit softer and more pliable. Makes for easier holstering and drawing.

May God bless,

Dwight

Edited June 27, 2009 by Dwight

[Lobo]

Lobo has some good points, . . . especially the shifting problem, . . . but I was successful in overcoming it without resorting to tie downs.

The first shoulder rig I had, I bought, . . . and it had probably 1 to maybe 1 1/8 wide straps of 6 oz leather for the "X" strapping. I gave it away.

I then used some of the ideas there to make my shoulder holster that I still have and use.

It is a horizontal carry, thumb break, and I purposely pulled it up close under my left arm, and allowed the off hand to hang a bit lower (after trial and error, found this works well for me), . . . and the off hand is a double mag pouch that opens down and carries two ea. 8 rd mags.

My straps are suede, . . . tend to widen at the top of the soulders to almost 2 inches and narrow as they approach the holster or mag pouch.

I have never needed any kind of belt strap, . . . it does not shift or move, . . . and I carry a full size RIA 1911, all steel, w/9 rounds in it.

I also used a round piece of 5 oz leather for my attachment point in the back, . . . using 24 line snaps from Tandy, . . . it has never come apart, . . . and swivels nicely as it needs to.

I also did not mold the holster, but lined it with suede (sewn, . . . not cemented) and just "crumpled" the leather a bit before I put it all together so the holster leather is a bit softer and more pliable. Makes for easier holstering and drawing.

May God bless,

Dwight

Dwight, you have brought up several interesting points. Shoulder holsters require a great deal of thought in design and execution, otherwise they are nothing more than uncomfortable fashion statements. I appreciate your post.

[RVM45]

Anybody have any experience with the Two-Gun Ambidextrous Shoulder Rigs?

I've heard some Gun experts say that sometimes its easier to hide two Guns than it is to hide one.

I asked because I've been considering a double rig for my S&W 5906s...

.....RVM45

[Shorts]

I took the mock rig to my buddy today. Let him tinker with it, try it on, adjust it and overall give me input.

We did talk about the shoulder straps. I think we decided to try a tapered over the shoulder width where its wider there then narrows to the straps. He initially asked if some kind of padding could be done but moved to the wider straps instead. The mag pouch would be single instead of double and a slightly different design (the bottom would be folded over not stitched closed.

I also mentioned about a slight angle for the draw, he said he understood it but he preferred a straight horizontal.

Oddly enough the down-on-paper-er-leather idea is close. Got some adjustments but headed the right direction.

I also took along some other holsters and belts so the gang to touch and feel for themselves. Good responses. I think I have some belt orders on the way as well as a bandoleer type crossdraw holster for a buddy's scoped hog revolver. I know there are some beautiful rigs that folks here have built that are going to give me great ideas and guidance when it comes time to do that one.

All in all, good day.

I am curious though about the wider straps. Would it be better to cut them curved for the comfort of the shoulder or to cut them straight?

Thanks folks for all the help. I'm eager to get to a solid finished design.

Bad lighting pic of shoulder rig:

You know what I find interesting is how simple shoulder rigs are in regards to how they are put together. Looking at that pic, if I removed the mag pouch and holster, there's just a couple of dangly straps. But put them on and it almost looks like a real piece of gear.

[ETW Grumpy]

Looks like you've got a good working rig there. I like suede straps and having them wider on the shoulders is probably ok, got a buddy who carries like that. I never noticed a significant difference between that and straight straps, even with something as heavy as a Desert Eagle "Baby Eagle" .40.

A good metal reinforced thumb break is always a good choice.

I never liked tie down straps that go to the belt. Try reaching above your head for something and your voice goes up an octave. I always found that the x shaped center piece and the weight of the weapon/mag pouches always made everything pretty fluid and natural.

You're doing good research and it looks like it'll pay off. Make sure you post some pics of the finished rig.

[Rayban]

Shorts, how bout a picture of this rig on somebody. I would like to see how the straps fit around the shoulders/arm pit area, etc.

Thanks

[Shorts]

Shorts, how bout a picture of this rig on somebody. I would like to see how the straps fit around the shoulders/arm pit area, etc.

Thanks

Size 46 Regular

Edited July 4, 2009 by Shorts

[Rayban]

Yhanks alot Shorts, that's very helpful.

[Lobo]

Project is coming along nicely, Monica. Hope you are being well paid for all the time you are putting into this one! Of course, additional orders are to be expected down the road, so the research and development time is worth it.

In response to the musings about straps (curved, wider), I would suggest that curved straps would be of little benefit because the weight of the holstered handgun would tend to pull them straight and cause little distortions in the leather that might print through the cover garment. I would suggest straps wider over the shoulder area where the weight is being supported, tapering down to a width appropriate for holster attachment.

Also, veg-tan leather may not be the best choice for the straps. Other tannages offer much improved flexibility and may conform to the required contours better and lie flatter for better concealment.

Here is one that I made a few months ago using 4-5 oz. suede leather for the shoulder support, nylon straps to the off-side, and a single mag pouch on the off-side. Completely different harness style than you are working on, but this illustrates both a wider strap (tapering from 2.5" to 1") and the soft, supple suede applied to the shoulder support.

[Shorts]

Thanks Lobo. That's a great rig you have.

I had been thinking of getting some suede. I think your suggestion is the little push I needed to go ahead and get some. I think it'll be more comfortable in the long run.

I've never worked with suede before. Is there anything particular I should know about? It comes dyed already, but do I need to use any kind of top coat? Or is it just use as is?

[Lobo]

For suede leather I would suggest ordering the color you intend to use, no additional finish required. Up to about 4-5 oz. weight it can be cut neatly and cleanly with household scissors (of decent quality and edge).

Almost all sueded leather is chrome tanned so no additional finish is necessary. It wears very well and, in this application, absorbs perspiration and gives it up via evaporation without many worries over staining. If anything, maybe a little silicone spray might benefit the finished product.

The most beneficial property I have found for shoulder harness use is the ability of suede leather to conform readily to any contour, no puckers here and there to worry about. Get your basic design close to the mark and the suede leather will do the rest all by itself.

Very comfortable, by the way. The holster I posted pictures of was worn by me under a light cotton shirt, either with or without a T-shirt, for several weeks. No chafing, no irritation, soft and comfy on the old skin covering my old bones.

Best regards.

[SunshineNative]

HI,

My 2 cents worth: Suede crawls when cut. So you really need a good angle and a sharp knife. Of course, you probably already know that, I am not a professional, just getting started in this venue.

Sunshine

Thanks Lobo. That's a great rig you have.

I had been thinking of getting some suede. I think your suggestion is the little push I needed to go ahead and get some. I think it'll be more comfortable in the long run.

I've never worked with suede before. Is there anything particular I should know about? It comes dyed already, but do I need to use any kind of top coat? Or is it just use as is?

[Shorts]

Good thoughts about suede yall. I'll be sure to keep them in mind if or when I decide on the final material.

I've mostly finished with the adjustments from the customer's input. I'm wearing the adjusted prototype now for the afternoon to see how it goes. If well, then I'll be calling the customer for his pistols so I can get the holster portion built.

I'm not 100% certain about using chicago screws as the adjustment mechanism for the straps. I'm finding it annoying and cumbersome. Also limiting if I don't put a million adjustment holes. Are there sliding loops or buckles that would offer an easier way of adjustment without compromising stability, concealment or comfort?

[Shorts]

Yes, I'm taking forever on this rig as the customer said "REALLY, no rush", but now it's time for the rig to go to home. I want to get her buttoned up in the next week and delivered.

I've decided to use suede (4/5oz) for the straps. I'm stumped on the hardware I should use for it.

I need bottom Drings for the holster portion to attached to. I also need some type of slider so that the length of the straps may be adjusted for fit.

What hardware do I need to use? I've decided to abandon holes and chicago screws. That doesn't seem like it'd be right for suede straps. Plus that method us tedious and annoying to adjust.

I'm taking a complete "Easy button" on this I've got a Weaver catalog and an OTB catalog onhand too.

[Jordan]

Although the photo does not show it real well, you could use a belt buckle with the center hole hook (dont remember the proper name for it LOL) removed and use it as a slider on the straps, friction of the double strap going through the buckle and over the center bar holds the strap in place once tightened.

[Shorts]

Although the photo does not show it real well, you could use a belt buckle with the center hole hook (dont remember the proper name for it LOL) removed and use it as a slider on the straps, friction of the double strap going through the buckle and over the center bar holds the strap in place once tightened.

Thanks Jordan.

I think you're talking about just a slide or a concave slide type piece, right?