How to achieve this type of stitch?

[xlr8tn]

I have never sewn anything by machine in my life and have been hand stitching all of my watch straps for the past few years. I would like to now purchase an inexpensive (~$300) used sewing machine that will let me sew a more professional stitch. All this machine needs to do is sew straps, nothing else at the moment. Can you recommend an electric machine that would let me get the sort of stitching seen in the photograph.

Once I acquire the machine, what sort of needles will I need? I have hand stitched with up to 277 and even 346 size thread. How do I get the angled effect on the machine? Is the needle awl like in that it lays down a slanted cut so the knot will offset the stitch or does the machine need a specific setting?

Thanks,

-Brent

[TwinOaks]

Bad news, I don't think you'll find a machine in that price range that will give a consistant stitch like you're wanting. Maybe if you found a good Singer 201 on the cheap... I bought a singer 66, hoping it would do nice things, but the limitation is with what size thread the machine will handle. My '66' just won't handle thick thread and give a good stitch. You might have some luck with a machine like the Sailrite machines, or one in that class like Tuffsew, Consew, etc. but I think you'll be a little over $300.

Regis told me he has a little Consew of that type and it does well. The extra money comes in when you put a servo motor on it.

Also, when you can get a machine.....get one that'll do more than you think you'll need.

For the angle of the thread question, it isn't how the needle penetrates, but how the hook wraps the bobbin thread, and the tension on it when it "locks" the stitch.

Hand sewing can produce the same effect, you just have to do the same thing, and pull the same tension..every time. For example: when saddle stitching (2 needles) you run the right hand needle through to the left. Then run the left hand needle on top of the thread coming through the hole, while pulling down on the right hand needle (which is hanging from it's thread in the next hole). This positions the threads in the holes. Repeat. What used to be the left hand needle/thread is now the right hand, and vice versa. Just do it the same for every hole and you'll have that angled look you want.

If you're so lucky to find a needle and awl machine for $300, forget the machine, and go get a lottery ticket.

Edited June 27, 2009 by TwinOaks

[MADMAX22]

I could be totally wrong but those look to be hand stitched. I dont know how you will get that same look with a cheap machine.

Who did you get the pics from, I cant make out the makers mark on everything. You could try to ask them what they use to stitch there straps with. Heck they may even be a member here.

[tonyc1]

You need a leather point needle to achieve this look, or handstitch with a saddler's awl!

Tony

[Trevor]

Hi there

This stitching looks to me to be machine stitched. Why:

The marks on the leather are tell tale of the feet walking on the leather.

The stitches are too perfect to be hand done.

I believe that the stitching can be achieved with a little careful planning. The thread has to be the right size and the bottom thread chosen to match. I usually go one size down for the bottom thread. The machine needle (used on the picture) I believe is a twist or LR which is an unusual leather point (cutting) needle that puts a diagonal cut and the thread will lay diagonal when sewn. I believe that this can also be achieved by other ways but this is the easiest way I know of. Be sure to match the right thread with the right size needle as well.

Most of the time I only use (unless for a good reason) the LR or twist needles. Both in the Toro and the Juki where that sewing pattern to me looks really cool. I would only use the diamond head if I knew that thickness was going to upset the path of the needle and skew it off in the wrong direction other than straight down.

One last thing the machine that you use should be working perfectly ie the timing and foot/feet should be set at the correct height as well.

Just my thoughts

cheers

Trevor

"Way down under"

[yrralguthrie]

Harbor Freight...no kidding

[quadrary]

it looks to me like it was hand stitched and the holes were mase with a punch not an awl as they are round.

[Bree]

On a stitcher you would use an LR, LL, or VR point alternatively you can use one of the P's (P, PCR, PCL) to get this kind of angled stitch. I agree that these PIX are probably hand sewn but you can get this stitch on a machine. Your LR is widely available and will do the job.

[Troy1]

The other difficult issue that has to be considered here is fixed stitch length. I've been perimeter sewing on leather for a while now and the typical problem I run into is that last stitch before you hit a corner to turn. Most of the time it just falls in the wrong place. Go one more stitch and you are off the edge of the leather, or turn where you've landed and you're in too far. The only real way to do this consistently in a production environment is with a programmable tacker. The stitches can be pre-programed to accommodate the pattern (ie variable stitch spacing). Problem here is that you need to add a couple more zeroes to your budget....that's a big sting!

[Bree]

The other difficult issue that has to be considered here is fixed stitch length. I've been perimeter sewing on leather for a while now and the typical problem I run into is that last stitch before you hit a corner to turn. Most of the time it just falls in the wrong place. Go one more stitch and you are off the edge of the leather, or turn where you've landed and you're in too far. The only real way to do this consistently in a production environment is with a programmable tacker. The stitches can be pre-programed to accommodate the pattern (ie variable stitch spacing). Problem here is that you need to add a couple more zeroes to your budget....that's a big sting!

For the tight budget there is the "Sharp Eye Programmable Tacker"... you get an inch or two out and do an eyeball calculation of how much you will be off and make a SWAG adjustment so you hit spot on at the corner (or center point for a belt).

[xlr8tn]

I just ordered some leather point needles from Campbell Bosworth. Those guys are so helpful...thanks Charlie. Now, either my wife's machine can not handle the type of needle I ordered, or I ordered the wrong needle shaft size. I have never sewed anything in my life...so this is all an experiment for me. I got two different point (LP and S) in two different sizes (25 and 26). Here is the needle information and sewing machine info:

Schmetz

NM: 200 size: 26

NM: 230 size: 25

other markings:

328S

428S

214X2 N R SP

DDX2 S

Organ Needles

214X2RTW size 25 and 26

I assume these are the Leather Point needles I ordered, but don't see LP anywhere.

My wife's machine is pretty basic and it is a Husky by Viking model # 170.

Is there something I can do to get these to fit? The shaft size on a needle my wife has is tiny.

Help me make sense of this!

-Brent

[china]

I am no expert and I am sure those more knowlegeble will correct me but I do not think that type of machine will handle, the type of leather in your photo's, you will need a industrial machine

[tashabear]

My wife's machine is pretty basic and it is a Husky by Viking model # 170.

Is there something I can do to get these to fit? The shaft size on a needle my wife has is tiny.

Help me make sense of this!

-Brent

I wouldn't do it, unless you're not interested in staying married. Or you're super-interested in buying her a new machine after you strip the gears on that one.

[neelsaddlery]

For machine stitching with thread this heavy you are going to need to look at least a medium weight machine. It will most likely cost more than $300.00, even used. We have a machine we offer called the Cowboy Model 797 that will use up to a size 138 thread, but the machine is $795.00 new. It comes with a servo motor, stand, table, and machine head, but that is still more than $300.00!!!!

If you want to use thread heavier than a size 138, then you'll need to look into a heavy harness stitcher. The price of these machins will be a great deal more, but when you need it, then you just have to have it.

We have a bit of a compromise machine that we call the Model 5. It will sew with thread in the range of 138-346, and it is priced at $1195.00 complete. Yes, it is more than $300.00, but still a lot less than other heavy duty machines.

Hope this might be of some use to you.