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Posted

I bought Al Stohlman's book on stitching and an Osbourne awl from Tandy to get me started. While putting a simple holster and belt together, my blade pulled from the handle. I tried putting it back together with gorilla glue, thinking the expansion would be great to fill in any nooks and really grip to the scored metal on the shank. After completely setting (overnight) and a little cleanup, I went back to stitching. The blade came loose within minutes. I guess I have 2 questions. I probably can't return it as it has some glue drips on it and I've had it sitting for about a year while i was away from my leather. One, can you recommend a reasonably priced awl <$30, and two, is there anything you'd recommend doing to the leather or awl to make it move through the leather better so I don't have the same problem. I see Tandy has a 4 in 1 awl with blades that chuck in, and that is what I would consider next if someone doesn't have a better solution.

Thanks again,

Kenny

Thanks to all of the artists who are willing to share their experience.

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Posted

Have a read through this tutorial. It's vitally important that the awl blade should be sharp, and have a high polish, to ensure that it doesn't meet too much resistance when it slides into - and in your case, out of - the leather.

http://www.bowstock.co.uk/saa.html

When everyone is somebody, then no one's anybody

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Posted
I see Tandy has a 4 in 1 awl with blades that chuck in, and that is what I would consider next if someone doesn't have a better solution.

That one is very low quality and in my case, completely useless. My blade pulled out of the chuck in less than the 10th stitch. It will not tighten properly to hold the blade.

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Posted (edited)
One, can you recommend a reasonably priced awl <$30, and two, is there anything you'd recommend doing to the leather or awl to make it move through the leather better so I don't have the same problem. I see Tandy has a 4 in 1 awl with blades that chuck in, and that is what I would consider next if someone doesn't have a better solution.

I have the CS Osborne CSO 142 awl haft. It's comfortable for me and is only 11.10 from Weaver. There is also the CSO 145 haft which has a groove for your pinky finger (I think) for only 10.03 from Weaver. Even though these use a check to allow changing blades I'm ordering an extra one of each so I can leave my regular awl blade chucked in the current one and put a large blade I use for 14+ harness leather in another handle. I'm going to try the 145 just to see if I like it better but I'm ordering another 142 at the same time since I like it. And they're cheap.

I'd steer clear of the 4 in one and order blades separately. I'm using Osborne CSO 42 - 1 1/2 until I spring for a Bob Douglas blade or two.

Dan

Edited by dbusarow
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Posted (edited)

I don't know how to add quotes to reply to each, but thank you all for your help.

Jeep - With the reviews a lot of Tandy tools have recieved, I assumed the 4 in 1 was not a great option. Thanks for affirming my thought there.

Dan - I am new enough to stitching that I don't know the appropriate size awl for my needs. I know I want a diamond shank for the stitching, but maybe someone could chime in on sizing. I see anything from 1-1/2 1.2mm up to 3-1/4 2mm on Weaver's site. The thickest thing I'll do would be a lined holster, but mostly I'll be working with 2 layers like a lined belt. Would you recommend the 1-1/2 1.2mm for this type of work? It seems as if you have to be a professional to order from Weaver, but I assume I'll be able to do a web search and find the same haft available retail.

Celt - That tutorial was nice. Should I sharpen a brand new awl, or just strop it to clean it up a bit?

Thanks!

Edited by KcKenny

Thanks to all of the artists who are willing to share their experience.

Posted

Just like to add the tandy 4-1 works for me for a lacing awl. I took the lacing awl blade that comes with it and put a high shine on that guy, darn thing glides thru leather and finger, then took some plyers and torqued down on the retainer. Its not gonna be very good for quick change outs but works great for lacing when I dont punch the lace holes.

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Posted

Found the Osborne haft and 1-1/2 inch blade on Springfield Leather's site. Luckily, I'm down that way quite a bit. Thanks for the suggestions.

Thanks to all of the artists who are willing to share their experience.

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Posted

The general consensus here is that Bob Douglas makes the best awls. Period. Search [ "Bob Douglas Awls" ], and use everything in the brackets.

As for sharpening, use a stabbing motion to sharpen the tip, and strop it regularly.

Mike DeLoach

Esse Quam Videri (Be rather than Seem)

"Don't learn the tricks of the trade.....Learn the trade."

"Teach what you know......Learn what you don't."

LEATHER ARTISAN'S DIGITAL GUILD on Facebook.

Posted (edited)

I'm with Mike, I have a Douglas awl blade [small] and a Barry King handle. Barry's handles have a flat side on it so it don't roll off your bench if you set it down and damage the blade

Happy Tooling

Tim

Edited by TimKleffner

It's hard to fail, but worse never to have tried to succeed.

Theodore Roosevelt

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Posted

I'm still wanting my BD awl. I think I've got enough saved for it, but I've gotta make it through the weekend and see what kind of emergencies pop up first...

I recommend it because of the enormous support it has. Sometimes, just sometimes, I can be taught.

Mike DeLoach

Esse Quam Videri (Be rather than Seem)

"Don't learn the tricks of the trade.....Learn the trade."

"Teach what you know......Learn what you don't."

LEATHER ARTISAN'S DIGITAL GUILD on Facebook.

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