Stitching Awl

[KcKenny]

I bought Al Stohlman's book on stitching and an Osbourne awl from Tandy to get me started. While putting a simple holster and belt together, my blade pulled from the handle. I tried putting it back together with gorilla glue, thinking the expansion would be great to fill in any nooks and really grip to the scored metal on the shank. After completely setting (overnight) and a little cleanup, I went back to stitching. The blade came loose within minutes. I guess I have 2 questions. I probably can't return it as it has some glue drips on it and I've had it sitting for about a year while i was away from my leather. One, can you recommend a reasonably priced awl <$30, and two, is there anything you'd recommend doing to the leather or awl to make it move through the leather better so I don't have the same problem. I see Tandy has a 4 in 1 awl with blades that chuck in, and that is what I would consider next if someone doesn't have a better solution.

Thanks again,

Kenny

[celticleather]

Have a read through this tutorial. It's vitally important that the awl blade should be sharp, and have a high polish, to ensure that it doesn't meet too much resistance when it slides into - and in your case, out of - the leather.

http://www.bowstock.co.uk/saa.html

[jeeperaz]

I see Tandy has a 4 in 1 awl with blades that chuck in, and that is what I would consider next if someone doesn't have a better solution.

That one is very low quality and in my case, completely useless. My blade pulled out of the chuck in less than the 10th stitch. It will not tighten properly to hold the blade.

[dbusarow]

One, can you recommend a reasonably priced awl <$30, and two, is there anything you'd recommend doing to the leather or awl to make it move through the leather better so I don't have the same problem. I see Tandy has a 4 in 1 awl with blades that chuck in, and that is what I would consider next if someone doesn't have a better solution.

I have the CS Osborne CSO 142 awl haft. It's comfortable for me and is only 11.10 from Weaver. There is also the CSO 145 haft which has a groove for your pinky finger (I think) for only 10.03 from Weaver. Even though these use a check to allow changing blades I'm ordering an extra one of each so I can leave my regular awl blade chucked in the current one and put a large blade I use for 14+ harness leather in another handle. I'm going to try the 145 just to see if I like it better but I'm ordering another 142 at the same time since I like it. And they're cheap.

I'd steer clear of the 4 in one and order blades separately. I'm using Osborne CSO 42 - 1 1/2 until I spring for a Bob Douglas blade or two.

Dan

Edited July 2, 2009 by dbusarow

[KcKenny]

I don't know how to add quotes to reply to each, but thank you all for your help.

Jeep - With the reviews a lot of Tandy tools have recieved, I assumed the 4 in 1 was not a great option. Thanks for affirming my thought there.

Dan - I am new enough to stitching that I don't know the appropriate size awl for my needs. I know I want a diamond shank for the stitching, but maybe someone could chime in on sizing. I see anything from 1-1/2 1.2mm up to 3-1/4 2mm on Weaver's site. The thickest thing I'll do would be a lined holster, but mostly I'll be working with 2 layers like a lined belt. Would you recommend the 1-1/2 1.2mm for this type of work? It seems as if you have to be a professional to order from Weaver, but I assume I'll be able to do a web search and find the same haft available retail.

Celt - That tutorial was nice. Should I sharpen a brand new awl, or just strop it to clean it up a bit?

Thanks!

Edited July 2, 2009 by KcKenny

[MADMAX22]

Just like to add the tandy 4-1 works for me for a lacing awl. I took the lacing awl blade that comes with it and put a high shine on that guy, darn thing glides thru leather and finger, then took some plyers and torqued down on the retainer. Its not gonna be very good for quick change outs but works great for lacing when I dont punch the lace holes.

[KcKenny]

Found the Osborne haft and 1-1/2 inch blade on Springfield Leather's site. Luckily, I'm down that way quite a bit. Thanks for the suggestions.

[TwinOaks]

The general consensus here is that Bob Douglas makes the best awls. Period. Search [ "Bob Douglas Awls" ], and use everything in the brackets.

As for sharpening, use a stabbing motion to sharpen the tip, and strop it regularly.

[TimKleffner]

I'm with Mike, I have a Douglas awl blade [small] and a Barry King handle. Barry's handles have a flat side on it so it don't roll off your bench if you set it down and damage the blade

Happy Tooling

Tim

Edited July 2, 2009 by TimKleffner

[TwinOaks]

I'm still wanting my BD awl. I think I've got enough saved for it, but I've gotta make it through the weekend and see what kind of emergencies pop up first...

I recommend it because of the enormous support it has. Sometimes, just sometimes, I can be taught.

[Rayban]

I had the exact same problem with the Osborn falling apart.....I bought the Douglas awl and haft, and it hurt ($$$$) till I started using it.......wow, is awl I can say.

I talked to Bob a bit later to thank him for sending such a fine piece of work, and after describing to him the kind of work I do....and I hand stitch some everyday...he told me I may never have to have the awl sharpened.

We'll see about that, but meanwhile, I just can't imagine a better awl.....

[celticleather]

Celt - That tutorial was nice. Should I sharpen a brand new awl, or just strop it to clean it up a bit?

Thanks!

I don't think I've ever had a new awl that didn't need sharpening and polishing. If you can see the grinder marks that result from the manufacturing, then it needs polishing . . . I aim to get a mirror finish on the flat sides of the awl.

[Rayban]

I don't think I've ever had a new awl that didn't need sharpening and polishing. If you can see the grinder marks that result from the manufacturing, then it needs polishing . . . I aim to get a mirror finish on the flat sides of the awl.

I'm only guessing , but you've never had a Douglas, correct?

They are ready to go out of the box, period....and no, he is not my uncle.

Why should you have to sharpen a new awl?? Only because the folks that make them don't know how to make them sharp, that's why.....I know I'm blowing here....but I was in the same boat as you, I just plain didn't know any better.......til I dropped $100 on a real awl/haft.

[celticleather]

I'm only guessing , but you've never had a Douglas, correct?

They are ready to go out of the box, period....and no, he is not my uncle.

I've never had $100 to spend on an awl! I buy mostly Dixons awls, and although they make some of the finest saddlery tools in the world, they seldom supply awls or knives that are sharpened or polished to a craftsman's finish. They seem to prefer that people put their own finish on their tools, and that suits me fine. A Dixons awl blade costs about $4.50, and takes about 15 minutes to polish.

[Kevinjohnson]

I've never had $100 to spend on an awl! I buy mostly Dixons awls, and although they make some of the finest saddlery tools in the world, they seldom supply awls or knives that are sharpened or polished to a craftsman's finish. They seem to prefer that people put their own finish on their tools, and that suits me fine. A Dixons awl blade costs about $4.50, and takes about 15 minutes to polish.

I agree w/ most everyone across the pond here that Bob Douglas awl blades are the best. Everytime I see Bob, I try to buy a couple of these $25 blades. I mainly use these to stitch horn caps and sometimes cantle bindings. One must keep in mind that these awl blades are tempered to where they are extremely hard. This also means that they can be brittle. If a person has a tendency to fish for the bottom hole, like when sewing a cantle binding, you run the risk of breaking the awl blade. Once you use one of these blades, I'm confident in saying that you'

ll won't go back to sharpening your own. Bob is not my uncle or grandpa either.

[Denster]

Just drill the haft out very lightly oversize clean the haft of the awl and roll it in some two ton epoxy and stick it in wipe off the excess and let it cure. It will not come out again without heat. Keep a block of beeswax where you are stitching and every few holes just wipe the blade of the awl front and back (some guys stab it) over the wax and it will make going in and comming out ever so much easier. Saw an interesting tool once. A guy had a backing block he used on the side opposite of where he was punching holes to protect his fingers from the awl, the block had a hole in it filled with beeswax and the blade was lubed each time it went through. Seemed to work well for him.

[Hilly]

If you bought that awl from Tandy, then call them up and tell them what happened. They will replace it for free. Happened to me too, on my first awl, and I had no problem getting it replaced. Call Clay Miller in the Rapid City, South Dakota store. He is a pleasure to do business with.

[KcKenny]

Wow, would love to have that BD setup. But being an ameteur, my wife would shoot me. All of the work I do is just for myself as a hobbyist. While I LOVE quality tools, leather, etc, it's hard to justify the price on some of it. Maybe as birthdays and Xmas' go by I'll be able to pick up some top notch stuff, but for now my skills need more polishing than my tools. I may give that epoxy a try and order the Osborne from Springfield if it's a bust.

Hilly - the manager of our local Tandy is great, has replaced dried out lace for me, and even said she'd replace any tool I had issues with. I just hate to put them out on a $10 awl I bought over a year ago that will probably have the same problems if I exchange.

Thanks everyone,

Kenny

[Hilly]

Wow, would love to have that BD setup. But being an ameteur, my wife would shoot me. All of the work I do is just for myself as a hobbyist. While I LOVE quality tools, leather, etc, it's hard to justify the price on some of it. Maybe as birthdays and Xmas' go by I'll be able to pick up some top notch stuff, but for now my skills need more polishing than my tools. I may give that epoxy a try and order the Osborne from Springfield if it's a bust.

Hilly - the manager of our local Tandy is great, has replaced dried out lace for me, and even said she'd replace any tool I had issues with. I just hate to put them out on a $10 awl I bought over a year ago that will probably have the same problems if I exchange.

Thanks everyone,

Kenny

I'll bet that with our economy going to custard, your Tandy manager would rather replace your tool than to have you start shopping elsewhere... Just a guess, of course. Never hurts to ask.

Also, Tandy would just send the tool back to C.S.Osborne, and get a refund (I'm guessing it was an Osborne awl).

Being the co-owner of a business myself, I know that a little good will goes a long way for return customers.

[jeeperaz]

but for now my skills need more polishing than my tools.

I'm with you on this one. I actually purchased 2 awl blades from Bob Douglas but will not use them until my skill improves. I'm afraid I'll break one. So it's the Tandy blade stuck in a crude, homemade haft for me right now.

[celticleather]

I wonder if we've uncovered some kind of cultural/traditional difference here between the UK and the USA.

I was always taught that sharpening and polishing one's awls and knives was part of the job - much like twisting and waxing thread. I can't think of any UK saddlers or leatherworkers who would even think of buying pre-polished awls - even if they were available over here (although it's not a subject that has ever come up for discussion, so I may be wrong!).

I've never been particularly impassioned about awls. I see them as just a necessary part of the toolkit, which occasionally - and quite annoyingly - get broken, usually through misuse! I always keep a spare blade sharpened and polished . . . experience has proved that they never get broken except in the middle of a job!

Perhaps we don't have a Bob Douglas over here (or do we?), but I've been sharpening and polishing my awls for the past 30+ years, so I'd find it difficult to change now. So long as my awls produce neat, perfectly diamond-shaped holes, without too much effort, I'm happy.

I've been flattening out one side of my awls hafts for the same number of years. It helps to prevent them from rolling off the bench, and also acts as a reference point in the hand, to keep the blade at the correct angle.

[ChuckBurrows]

With all due respect to Mr. Douglas, Mr. Main. Mr. Beard, Mr.Watt, and others who offer quality als and other tools to the trade, I basically agree with celticfury - been doing this craft for 48+ years and sharpening/polishing my cutting tools (as well as building/adapting others at times) has been part and parcel of the craft - but then again I'm also a knife maker and learned how to sharpen/polish/adapt/make my own blades in particular back when many/most of the fine tools we have offered today weren't quite so available........

FWIW - I bought my last two awl blades, Osbornes, about 20 years ago and sharpened/polished them at that time - it took all of 15-20 minutesper blade. I'm still using the first one with just some minor touch ups along the way with the other in reserve.....as for easing one's awl through tough leather, I use beeswax just like those who came before me did and taught me to do.......I have also had the chance over the years to use the awls from Mr. Douglas (I dearly love his rivet setting tools) and others - they are fine tools and if you do not have the skills or inclination to sharpen/polish them, than by all means take the plunge when/if you can...........

As always different strokes...........

[Rayban]

Btm. line is this...you sharpen/polish your awl blades when and if you have to.....with the BD, you simply don't have to, he's done it for you....as I would expect him to for the $25 he gets for them.

[KcKenny]

Well, I took some advice this weekend. I drilled out my Osbourne haft and reinserted my blade with a little epoxy. I noticed the blade was marred and almost blackish in some areas, YUCK! I bought a buffing wheel and some polishing compound for my bench grinder. The epoxy should be at full strength tonight, at which point I'll take to cleaning up that blade.