Finishing Edges

[RWB]

You can get basically the same type of applicator from Ohio Travel Bag. Their version is called Ready Flow Pens. There a two pens, a large and a small one, that sit in a little plastic container. The lid screws on and off and the pens go thru holes in the top. Fill the container with dye, the pens soak it up, and away you go. All they are, are basically what Troy West described. Plastic tubes with felt applicators on the end. They work great, but after hearing Troy's suggestion I doubt I'll be buying them any more. I might as well make my own.

Ross

Edited January 14, 2010 by RWB

[Rawhide]

Thanks Bobby and Ross,Troy, we'd love to see pictures of this device. You know how we like pictures.

[RWB]

Ready Flow Pens. Available thru Ohio Travel Bag.

Ross

[TroyWest]

I"d be happy to post a picture but currently we have misplaced the charge cord to my digital camera. I will when I replace it. I actually used a ready flow pen for a few years but the tube was aluminum and corroded away. Thought I'd make my own out of pvc and it has worked great. Also took a small clear plastic jar? It had beef boullon in it. Small , about 3" across and 3" hi with a plastic screw on lid. I drilled a hole in the center of tha lid and used my jewelers saw to cut a small hole about 1" diameter so my dye pen can go right down in the hole. Cut 2 discs of felt, about 2" diameter to go in the bottom of the jar and added dye to just the top of the 2 felt pads. Makes a great dye container and applicator. I know a picture would be great. You'll just have to use your imagination for the moment.

[TroyWest]

As soon as I posted I see that Ross put up his pics. The original Ready flow pens had a metal screw on lid and aluminum pens. His look like they may be plastic which should hold up better.

[bruce johnson]

Troy and Bob,

I used the setup from Ron's too. It is just a relabeled RediFlow pen deal and all plastic. You can buy them from Beilers and a few other places too. After I used up the last of Ron's I went to using some diluted LCI stuff that Greg uses. I like it better than Ron's. I usually go with that first let it dry, and then dye. I use Pilot refillable carton markers for black, and felt in a clothes pin for brown. I recently tried some Minwax pens that Kate Dubiel uses. Basically wood stain in a marker. Some nice shades of brown, and good for small pieces. The tips are a little small for big projects. I follow up with a home mix of beeswax and paraffin and run that over the wheel again to really put a final shine on.

[Mongo]

Bob,

I normally don't dye until after my burnished edges have dried. I was considering burnishing after dyeing the edges of my black stuff because of the problem I described earlier. Yes, I use a parafin and bees' wax 50/50 mix on the edges as my final step. It's something I picked-up from the John Bianchi DVDs. I seem to get a better "look" on the edge by hand buffing with a piece of canvas rather than going back to the power burnishing wheel after applying the wax.

I found a set of refillable felt tip markers in the www.dickblick.com art catalogue (Akua-Kolor variety Pen Set $22.00 #A37205-1009). I haven't ordered them yet, but they look like they would work well for edging. I've been looking for the RediFlow pens locally and haven't found them. I'll check the internet sources you other guys have mentioned.

[hidepounder]

The RediFlow Pens you all are talking about is what I'm using......I'm not sure why I was calling them PartnerPens. I think I'm losing my mind!

[Mongo]

Your not losing your mind. I found one listing on the internet for them as "Partner Pens" but most of the other places listed them as Rediflow.

[ToddB 68]

Hi !

Subject: Newbie with questions re using vinegaroon to dye edges.

To begin with, I assume you must have a steady hand to apply black dye to edges, not allowing it to get on the face of the leather.

#1...If the dye accidentally smears on the face, can it be removed ? If so, what are the best ways to remove it ?

#2...Does the face of the leather right next to the edges try to wick the dye ?

Thanks in advance everybody for your help with these questions.

Todd

[ToddB 68]

Hi Folks !

Subject: My above post Jan. 19, 2010, with questions.

Could you give me on the subject ?

Thanks much,

Todd

Edited January 27, 2010 by ToddB68

[hidepounder]

Hi !

Subject: Newbie with questions re using vinegaroon to dye edges.

To begin with, I assume you must have a steady hand to apply black dye to edges, not allowing it to get on the face of the leather.

#1...If the dye accidentally smears on the face, can it be removed ? If so, what are the best ways to remove it ?

#2...Does the face of the leather right next to the edges try to wick the dye ?

Thanks in advance everybody for your help with these questions.

Todd

Hi Todd,

I have never used vinegaroon to dye edges. Vinegaroon doesn't get real black until oil is applied. It doesn't seem very practical to me, but maybe it would work. When dyeing edges with spirit dyes you do need a fairly steady hand as you suggest. If the dye gets on the face of the leather there is no removing it! The leather does want to wick the dye along the edge, which is the sole reason why I burnish before dyeing....it helps to make a neat clean dye line. Hope this helps.....

Bobby

[RWB]

I have on a few occasions removed a spirit dye spot with Neatlac or a similar product. The trick is that you have to move with alomost unhuman light speed. It helps to if you have applied Neat-lac to the piece already. That creates a barrier of sorts that prevents the dye from soaking in as fast. And all I've done is used as much profanity as I can think of, and rub it in really hard with my finger. Sometimes it works, and sometimes it doesn't. If you can invent some new words it might help. Best if you are just carefull and don't slobber it up on top.

Ross

Edited January 27, 2010 by RWB

[zookeper]

this is my first post, i'm glad i found this board, looks like a wealth of info here and i hope i will fit in here.

i am about to do my first project with an exotic (cobra skin on double layer belt with matching trimmed holster and mag carrier) if anyone has experience blending edges with exotics such as this i would appreciate any tips before i start. i have at hand some fiebings burnishing wax (that i have also never used before). i have just burnished my other work, with fair results with burlap and elbow grease, but i know this one will take more.

[zookeper]

turns out it's easier than i had thought and the piece that i just finished blended nicely and looks like part of the leather behind it.

[ToddB 68]

Glad you finally made it partner ! I was beginning to worry you might have gotten bucked out of the saddle on the way over ! All kidding aside, thanks for stopping in. This is a follow-up to my above post on Jan. 19, 2010 (Post #35). If you are interested in the background on this project, please see my post "Need Advice on Making Utility Tool Sheath" ( w/pictures ) dated October 19, 2009. As of today, it is at the bottom of page 5 of this "How Do I Do That ?" forum. Just be aware, it might be bumped to a successive page (#6, #7, etc., etc.) by the time anyone reads this. Firstly, I want to thank Bob Park (hidepounder) and Ross Brunk (RWB) for their replies to my above post #35. In reply to them, since I'm just getting started in leatherwork, I think I need to practice edge finishing on a few sample pieces cut from my side of 9 oz. veg. tanned cow hide. I will follow Bobby's "Finishing Edges" process as close as possible, using the tools & supplies I have accumulated to date (as listed below), plus whatever additional supplies I might decide to add if not too costly (Shipping & Handling costs being what they are these days). I'm trying to economize until I find out if I really like leatherwork enough to stay with it, although I believe I will.

TOOLS & SUPPLIES ACCUMULATED TO DATE:

#1..Side of 9 oz. veg. tanned cowhide........gift from my brother.

#2..Quick Stitch Sewing Awl #91812.......................................Qty. (1)............................ $3.99 Local Harbor Frt.

#3..Al Stohlman's book The Art of Hand Sewing Leather................................................... 12.99 Amazon.com +3.99 S&H #4..Pure Beeswax #C2014......................................................Qty. (1)............................... $3.25 Zack White

#5..Nylon Edge Slicker Wheel #8122.......................................Qty. (1)............................... 2.75 " "

#6..Midas Edge Beveling Tool #8076, Size #3.........................Qty. (1)............................... 8.95 " "

#7..100% Pure Neatsfoot Oil, 8 oz., #C23408.........................Qty. (1)............................... 5.75 " "

#8..Zack's Gum Tragacanth #C25594......................................Qty. (1)............................... 4.95 " "

Sub-TL 25.65 +14.12 S&H

Total 39.77

#9..Craftool Overstitch Wheel Size 5, on shank w/handle........Qty. (1)............................... $7.50 Tandy 8.00 S&H 1.01 Tax Total 16.51

#10..Paraffin Wax, Household for canning, etc., 1 lb. block.........Qty. (1)............................... 3.99 Local Kroger ________________

* Current Grand Total $81.24 *

If I use "ShOE GOO" on hand in house supplies, to glue the leather sheath together, add another $1.99. Note: I made a gun stock checkering bench years ago and am now in the process of making and retro-fitting it with a pair of wooden stitching jaws. I have all materials on hand for the jaws. I will post pictures when completed. If you're still with me I'll wish you GOOD LUCK on all your leather projects ! I'm headin to the bunk house ! Todd

Edited April 8, 2010 by Johanna
clarity, by request of owner

[Pelallito]

Hello Bob,

Like Todd, I am a newbie. I have seen you mention the dyes before and am curious about them and where to get them. Tandy has oil dies, but you seem to prefer another type and I would like to buy some to use your technique. The other thing that I have not found, as yet, in Miami is paraffin.

Thanks for the tutorial.

Regards,

Fred

Hi Todd,

I have never used vinegaroon to dye edges. Vinegaroon doesn't get real black until oil is applied. It doesn't seem very practical to me, but maybe it would work. When dyeing edges with spirit dyes you do need a fairly steady hand as you suggest. If the dye gets on the face of the leather there is no removing it! The leather does want to wick the dye along the edge, which is the sole reason why I burnish before dyeing....it helps to make a neat clean dye line. Hope this helps.....

Bobby

[hidepounder]

Fred,

Tandy carries both oil and alcohol dyes. I happen to like the alcohol dyes....maybe because that's what I learned to use. Oil dyes are fine also...they take longer to dry and I have never tried them on an edge....I would think they would be fine, though.

Pariafin is readily available in grocery stores (check the baking section) and at many hardware stores. It is still used for canning......

Bobby

[RandyScott]

The other thing that I have not found, as yet, in Miami is paraffin.

Bob is correct, paraffin is 'canning wax'. In my local Publix, canning supplies are in the produce/meat department area. Don't know why, just is. If you don't find it there, ask any employee and they will walk you to it.

[Pelallito]

Thank you both Bob and Randy. I will take a better look at Tandy's catalog and go to Publix tomorrow. I did try Winn Dixie and did not find any. I found some at Pearls art supply, but they only sell it in an 11 pound box. That is probably several lifetimes supply of paraffin.

Thanks again for the help.

Regards,

Fred

[ToddB 68]

Thank you both Bob and Randy. I will take a better look at Tandy's catalog and go to Publix tomorrow. I did try Winn Dixie and did not find any. I found some at Pearls art supply, but they only sell it in an 11 pound box. That is probably several lifetimes supply of paraffin.

Thanks again for the help.

Regards,

Fred

Fred..........I bought a one-pound box of household pariffin wax at the Mount Orab, Ohio KROGER grocery store for under $5.00. The box says "For Canning, Candlemaking and many other uses" and the distributor is Royal Oak Enterprises, LLC, Roswell, GA 30076, Made in U.S.A.. The brand is "Gulf Wax" and the box contains (4) individual blocks, each one is 3/4 " thick x 2-5/16" wide x 4-1/2" minimum long.

I would have attached a photo of the box for identification, except my Scanner is not operating at the moment (Computer message says "Sorry, Scanner could not be initialized. (Scanner not found.)". I should have it running again, as soon as I can consult with my son. He is employed as a computer programmer/analyst. All cables are still connected and tight, so the problem is something beyond my knowledge.

Hope this helps !

Todd

[Pelallito]

Todd,

Sorry about your scanner problems. Try unplugging from the computer at the back of the scanner and the power to the scanner. Perhaps when you reconnect your computer will find it again. I have had problems with mine and they can be irritating to solve. In my case, it normally involves a few appropriate words about computers and the people that invented them.

I looked up the gulf wax on the computer and saw it on line. I called a local Publix yesterday and they said they did not have it, but I think that I have seen canning jars there, after my memory was jogged by these responses. If necessary I will order it on line.

When I asked a friend about this, he laughed and told me that I lived in the wrong part of the country for canning.

Thanks for the help.

Regards,

Fred

[Pelallito]

Todd,

Sorry about your scanner problems. Try unplugging from the computer at the back of the scanner and the power to the scanner. Perhaps when you reconnect your computer will find it again. I have had problems with mine and they can be irritating to solve. In my case, it normally involves a few appropriate words about computers and the people that invented them.

I looked up the gulf wax on the computer and saw it on line. I called a local Publix yesterday and they said they did not have either paraffin or canning wax , but I think that I have seen canning jars there, after my memory was jogged by these responses. If necessary I will order it on line.

When I asked a friend about this, he laughed and told me that I lived in the wrong part of the country for canning.

Thanks for the help.

Regards,

Fred

PS I went there today and they did have it. I got a box. I will start using it tomorrow. Found it at last!!!!

Thanks for all the help.

Fred

Edited February 6, 2010 by Pelallito

[ToddB 68]

Todd,

Sorry about your scanner problems. Try unplugging from the computer at the back of the scanner and the power to the scanner. Perhaps when you reconnect your computer will find it again. I have had problems with mine and they can be irritating to solve. In my case, it normally involves a few appropriate words about computers and the people that invented them.

I looked up the gulf wax on the computer and saw it on line. I called a local Publix yesterday and they said they did not have it, but I think that I have seen canning jars there, after my memory was jogged by these responses. If necessary I will order it on line.

When I asked a friend about this, he laughed and told me that I lived in the wrong part of the country for canning.

Thanks for the help.

Regards,

Fred

Fred.........Thanks for the kind words and advice on my scanner problem. I had done what you suggest earlier. That's the first thing I do whenever a computer problem rears it's ugly head.....pull & re-plug cords. Unfortunately, that didn't solve the problem (computer cannot initialize....scanner not found !).

Glad to help with the paraffin.

Todd

Edited February 6, 2010 by ToddB68

[Pelallito]

Todd,

You might check your programs and see if you have lost the scanner. Then you could try this- go to My Computer-Control Panel-Scanner and Camera-under Imaging Task there is a Add an Imaging device. On my computer that starts a Wizard to add a scanner or camera.

We probably need to move this somewhere else now that we are off subject, but I don't know where.

I will try Bobs system today, but I still need to get the dye and make applicator pens.

Thanks to everybody again for all of the help.

Regards,

Fred

Fred.........Thanks for the kind words and advice on my scanner problem. I had done what you suggest earlier. That's the first thing I do whenever a computer problem rears it's ugly head.....pull & re-plug cords. Unfortunately, that didn't solve the problem (computer cannot initialize....scanner not found !).

Glad to help with the paraffin.

Todd

Edited February 6, 2010 by Pelallito