Moderator bruce johnson Posted January 14, 2010 Moderator Report Posted January 14, 2010 Troy and Bob, I used the setup from Ron's too. It is just a relabeled RediFlow pen deal and all plastic. You can buy them from Beilers and a few other places too. After I used up the last of Ron's I went to using some diluted LCI stuff that Greg uses. I like it better than Ron's. I usually go with that first let it dry, and then dye. I use Pilot refillable carton markers for black, and felt in a clothes pin for brown. I recently tried some Minwax pens that Kate Dubiel uses. Basically wood stain in a marker. Some nice shades of brown, and good for small pieces. The tips are a little small for big projects. I follow up with a home mix of beeswax and paraffin and run that over the wheel again to really put a final shine on. Bruce Johnson Malachi 4:2 "the windshield's bigger than the mirror, somewhere west of Laramie" - Dave Stamey Vintage Refurbished And Selected New Leather Tools For Sale - www.brucejohnsonleather.com
Members Mongo Posted January 14, 2010 Members Report Posted January 14, 2010 Bob, I normally don't dye until after my burnished edges have dried. I was considering burnishing after dyeing the edges of my black stuff because of the problem I described earlier. Yes, I use a parafin and bees' wax 50/50 mix on the edges as my final step. It's something I picked-up from the John Bianchi DVDs. I seem to get a better "look" on the edge by hand buffing with a piece of canvas rather than going back to the power burnishing wheel after applying the wax. I found a set of refillable felt tip markers in the www.dickblick.com art catalogue (Akua-Kolor variety Pen Set $22.00 #A37205-1009). I haven't ordered them yet, but they look like they would work well for edging. I've been looking for the RediFlow pens locally and haven't found them. I'll check the internet sources you other guys have mentioned.
hidepounder Posted January 14, 2010 Author Report Posted January 14, 2010 The RediFlow Pens you all are talking about is what I'm using......I'm not sure why I was calling them PartnerPens. I think I'm losing my mind!
Members Mongo Posted January 15, 2010 Members Report Posted January 15, 2010 Your not losing your mind. I found one listing on the internet for them as "Partner Pens" but most of the other places listed them as Rediflow.
Members ToddB 68 Posted January 20, 2010 Members Report Posted January 20, 2010 Hi ! Subject: Newbie with questions re using vinegaroon to dye edges. To begin with, I assume you must have a steady hand to apply black dye to edges, not allowing it to get on the face of the leather. #1...If the dye accidentally smears on the face, can it be removed ? If so, what are the best ways to remove it ? #2...Does the face of the leather right next to the edges try to wick the dye ? Thanks in advance everybody for your help with these questions. Todd
Members ToddB 68 Posted January 27, 2010 Members Report Posted January 27, 2010 (edited) Hi Folks ! Subject: My above post Jan. 19, 2010, with questions. Could you give me on the subject ? Thanks much, Todd Edited January 27, 2010 by ToddB68
hidepounder Posted January 27, 2010 Author Report Posted January 27, 2010 Hi ! Subject: Newbie with questions re using vinegaroon to dye edges. To begin with, I assume you must have a steady hand to apply black dye to edges, not allowing it to get on the face of the leather. #1...If the dye accidentally smears on the face, can it be removed ? If so, what are the best ways to remove it ? #2...Does the face of the leather right next to the edges try to wick the dye ? Thanks in advance everybody for your help with these questions. Todd Hi Todd, I have never used vinegaroon to dye edges. Vinegaroon doesn't get real black until oil is applied. It doesn't seem very practical to me, but maybe it would work. When dyeing edges with spirit dyes you do need a fairly steady hand as you suggest. If the dye gets on the face of the leather there is no removing it! The leather does want to wick the dye along the edge, which is the sole reason why I burnish before dyeing....it helps to make a neat clean dye line. Hope this helps..... Bobby
Members RWB Posted January 27, 2010 Members Report Posted January 27, 2010 (edited) I have on a few occasions removed a spirit dye spot with Neatlac or a similar product. The trick is that you have to move with alomost unhuman light speed. It helps to if you have applied Neat-lac to the piece already. That creates a barrier of sorts that prevents the dye from soaking in as fast. And all I've done is used as much profanity as I can think of, and rub it in really hard with my finger. Sometimes it works, and sometimes it doesn't. If you can invent some new words it might help. Best if you are just carefull and don't slobber it up on top. Ross Edited January 27, 2010 by RWB Ross Brunk www.nrcowboygear.com
Members zookeper Posted January 28, 2010 Members Report Posted January 28, 2010 this is my first post, i'm glad i found this board, looks like a wealth of info here and i hope i will fit in here. i am about to do my first project with an exotic (cobra skin on double layer belt with matching trimmed holster and mag carrier) if anyone has experience blending edges with exotics such as this i would appreciate any tips before i start. i have at hand some fiebings burnishing wax (that i have also never used before). i have just burnished my other work, with fair results with burlap and elbow grease, but i know this one will take more.
Members zookeper Posted January 29, 2010 Members Report Posted January 29, 2010 turns out it's easier than i had thought and the piece that i just finished blended nicely and looks like part of the leather behind it.
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