hidepounder Posted September 21, 2010 Author Report Posted September 21, 2010 Bobby, You understood my first question better than I stated it. Thanks for the clarification. On the burnishing wheel: Do you glue/attach the canvas to the wheel? I assume the canvas needs to be pushed down into the grooves or does the saddle soap put enough "give" in the canvas to make it conform to the grooves? Regards, ferg I wrapped the canvas on the burnishing wheel and taped the ends. I also added Barge cement along the edge to keep it down. The canvas stretches and conforms to the wheel. I didn't glue directly to the wheel because I didn't want to ruin it and I didn't k now how it was going to work. However I have never had to do anything to it since so I have left well enough alone. Hope this helps.... Bobby
Hennessy Posted April 1, 2011 Report Posted April 1, 2011 Butchkitty, I'm really glad you found my article helpful! I use parafin which comes in a brick. I think I bought it at the grocery store. The parafin is good over the bees was and adds a little polish. Bees wax doesn't polish that well. I have been experimenting with using bees wax after I dye the edges, and then using parafin on top of that, just like you're talking about, but to be honest I haven't seen where the addition of bees wax has added anything. It certainly can't hurt, that's for sure! I don't know anything about seal oil soap...what can you tell me about it? Bob hey bob,back in me nipper days back in australia i worked in some old prestigeous saddle shops in sydney.we edge'd the saddles thus [as memory serves me] dyed the edges then laid leather on bench and hanging edge on or slightly off bench,proceeded to hot iron edges.a steel tool an edgeburnisher i think [british made] we had a candle stuck upright in a small coffee[tea] can the candle provided the heat for the tool tip which was pushed into a block of beeswax. whilst wax was hot n runny we pushed edger along leather edge till it needed more heat then repeat over n over thru entire edge.when done properly it gave a smooth bright sealed edge and was standard practice for edging all leather work as i recall.i like your way better and your way is my way too adios pete
hidepounder Posted April 2, 2011 Author Report Posted April 2, 2011 hey bob,back in me nipper days back in australia i worked in some old prestigeous saddle shops in sydney.we edge'd the saddles thus [as memory serves me] dyed the edges then laid leather on bench and hanging edge on or slightly off bench,proceeded to hot iron edges.a steel tool an edgeburnisher i think [british made] we had a candle stuck upright in a small coffee[tea] can the candle provided the heat for the tool tip which was pushed into a block of beeswax. whilst wax was hot n runny we pushed edger along leather edge till it needed more heat then repeat over n over thru entire edge.when done properly it gave a smooth bright sealed edge and was standard practice for edging all leather work as i recall.i like your way better and your way is my way too adios pete Hey Pete....I think that is fascinating! I have heard of doing this before but have never seen it done. It would seem to me to that the heated wax would produce a very durable edge. Thanks for sharing! Bobby
Members Gequinn Posted April 7, 2011 Members Report Posted April 7, 2011 Let me just say that I used this on a knife sheath that I made and the results look amazing. Thanks for this tutorial!
Members LilRay Posted April 7, 2011 Members Report Posted April 7, 2011 Bob, I've yet to get any machinery (belt sanders etc), so could I trouble you for some tips on hand sanding? What type sandpaper is best? How does one know when the leathers are even? Just starting out, and I'm as green as a shamrock. Sorry if this is trouble. God Bless, Ray Ray
hidepounder Posted April 12, 2011 Author Report Posted April 12, 2011 Bob, I've yet to get any machinery (belt sanders etc), so could I trouble you for some tips on hand sanding? What type sandpaper is best? How does one know when the leathers are even? Just starting out, and I'm as green as a shamrock. Sorry if this is trouble. God Bless, Ray Hi Ray, If you are going to sand by hand, I would recommend about a 150 to 250 grit sandpaper. It is good to sand in multiple grits.....going from 150 to maybe 600 and finally a 1000, however that requires a lot of work and the difference between sanding may not be three times as good. That is somehting you will have to determine for yourself after a little experimenting. If I am doing a show piece I pull out all the stops and sand with several different grits, however I don't do that on a normal piece. If you don't want to sand by hand, you can use one of those small sanding drums they sell in hardware stores and use it in a drill or dremel. When we talk about the leathers being even we are referring to the two surfaces finishing on the same plane. There is no step or bump between layers and the two pieces are smooth and feel like one piece when you're finished. Hope this helps.... Bobby
Members LilRay Posted April 12, 2011 Members Report Posted April 12, 2011 Hi Ray, If you are going to sand by hand, I would recommend about a 150 to 250 grit sandpaper. It is good to sand in multiple grits.....going from 150 to maybe 600 and finally a 1000, however that requires a lot of work and the difference between sanding may not be three times as good. That is somehting you will have to determine for yourself after a little experimenting. If I am doing a show piece I pull out all the stops and sand with several different grits, however I don't do that on a normal piece. If you don't want to sand by hand, you can use one of those small sanding drums they sell in hardware stores and use it in a drill or dremel. When we talk about the leathers being even we are referring to the two surfaces finishing on the same plane. There is no step or bump between layers and the two pieces are smooth and feel like one piece when you're finished. Hope this helps.... Bobby Absolutely Bobby! Thanks for your help and advice. God Bless, Ray Ray
Members rmr Posted April 13, 2011 Members Report Posted April 13, 2011 Hi Bob I have been reading through your recommendations on burnishing edges. Thanks for all the great info. One question I have with regards to the burnishing wheel that you use to wrap the canvas around. Are you using one of the commercial wheels made to hold sanpaper drums- or is it a wood one?? Also is it a flat cylinder or did you create a groove all the way around the wheel like the commercial burnishing wheel that are sold in Weavers catalog?? Thansk Bob R
hidepounder Posted April 14, 2011 Author Report Posted April 14, 2011 Hi Bob I have been reading through your recommendations on burnishing edges. Thanks for all the great info. One question I have with regards to the burnishing wheel that you use to wrap the canvas around. Are you using one of the commercial wheels made to hold sanpaper drums- or is it a wood one?? Also is it a flat cylinder or did you create a groove all the way around the wheel like the commercial burnishing wheel that are sold in Weavers catalog?? Thansk Bob R Bob, I wrapped the cocobolo wood wheel with the grooves in it that came with my Weaver machine. Bobby
Hennessy Posted April 15, 2011 Report Posted April 15, 2011 Bob, I wrapped the cocobolo wood wheel with the grooves in it that came with my Weaver machine. Bobby bob, i followed this thread thru to end and haven't seen this slicking trick mentioned,so 'ere goes' ! a really good production mex hand n friend showed me this,i use it a lot.get a square piece of fake sheepskin cut the hair half off with scissors.wet it good, hair side slide edge along for a foot then finger tip along edge one way forward then back find th nap which way does it lay, wipe one way once its found.a foot at a time,find th nap, wet edge, then turn fake skin over and use coarse cloth back to slick one way keep edge wet,nap will lay down slick,after entire length is done slick edge with a bar of saddle soap then burnishwith rag or stick,then dye n finish further if desired adios pete
Recommended Posts