Jump to content

Recommended Posts

  • Members
Posted

Mijo.....I do not wait for the glycerin bar soap to dry before I burnish. Remember....we are using the glycerine bar as a "slicking" agent as opposed to what it was designed to be used for...therefore the instructions really don't apply. Also, when I add paste soap to my canvas, it is for the purpose of providing lubrication to the canvas so that I don't over burnish creating rough spots. I can't tell you why, but for some reason using just the glycerine bar on both the leather edge and the canvas, or using the paste soap only, just doesn't produce as good a result for me as using both. However, I think it is very common for a lot of makers to use paste only and they are content with the result. I probably go overboard....I think that's just my nature.....but I think my edges will stack up to most maker's results. In my opinion there is no real reason to apply gum trag if you've gone through the process of burnishing with saddle soap. After all, the gum trag is just used as a slicking agent like the saddle soap is, but it won't hurt a thing to use it. Maybe it will provide a longer lasting finish....I don't know.....I only use it on latigo where it does an excellent job.

Hope this helps.....

Bobby

Hidepounder - Thanks for the clarification, that's exactly what I was thinking (leaving the glycerin soap wet) but I just wanted to be sure. I use mainly latigo leather so I'm curious to see if my results differ when I substitute the saddle soap paste for gum trag.

  • Replies 280
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

  • Members
Posted

Bob: Very helpful information. Thanks for posting it. A question on #7: For the final finish arew there other things besides Neat-Lac that can be used?

Posted

Bob: Very helpful information. Thanks for posting it. A question on #7: For the final finish arew there other things besides Neat-Lac that can be used?

Absolutely. Use whatever finish you prefer. I just happen to be a NeatLac fanatic. It is my favorite finish. If you prefer use, Tan Kote , Resolene, Saddle Lac, whatever.

Bobby

Leqatherworkerthumbnail2La.jpg LongLiveCowboys-1.jpgWFDPhoto2a.jpg

  • Members
Posted

Bob: one more question: Is there something other than glycerin bar soap that I can use for step #3? I know some grocery and health stores have glycerin soap but maybe the Fiebings is a different kind.

Posted

Bob: one more question: Is there something other than glycerin bar soap that I can use for step #3? I know some grocery and health stores have glycerin soap but maybe the Fiebings is a different kind.

I don' think I can answer that question. You can use gum trag, bees wax or Casing Solution from LSI, but they all are difficult to dye through. A new product on the market that works pretty well is Quik Slik which is carried by Luke & Vandy at Sheridan Leather Outfitters 307.674.6679. It is a slicking agent and takes the place of wetting the leather and applying saddle soap. But if you are looking for a different source for glycerine soap, I can't help you. The thing to remember is that edges can be burnished by just using water, a piece of canvas and elbow grease. What I have tried to provide in my instructions is what works best for me. But it is only one of many methods. I just haven't been able to achieve superior results with the other methods I've tried. I'm always looking however and I'm not above jumping ship if I can find a better mouse trap!

Leqatherworkerthumbnail2La.jpg LongLiveCowboys-1.jpgWFDPhoto2a.jpg

  • 2 months later...
  • Members
Posted

Something I've recently discovered is the existence of microfleece at Home Depot. It's a soft blue cloth. When I apply the parafin to the edges, I polish it with the microfleece, and it really mellows the look- gives it a beautiful glow! I also have started using it as a buffing cloth for the surface. It's made a small, subtle difference, but one that I really like.

"I intend to grow old disgracefully"-- Steve Harris (Bass player for Iron Maiden- I am not Steve!!)

“Bowing to peer pressure is normally the weakest way to deal with an issue.” - McElt (I am not McElt either.)

  • 1 month later...
  • Members
Posted (edited)

First post, looooong time lurker, both as a member and before. Just wanted to say thanks to Bob for this thread because it's turned edging FROM an annoying frustrating endeavor into something that isn't really difficult and looks nice. I'll post some pictures of my holsters and stuff for better reference but I have a question about edging and since this thread has been going for years I hope it's ok to dig it up after a month. I've been trying to get edges that aren't high gloss but at the moment, they don't last long. I guess my question is about the wax and finish. Do these products serve to preserve the edge more than anything? I haven't even tried using the wax and I wondered if the wax is that step that will make my edges last longer, but I noticed that it also brings on the shine. What I've been doing is using a bit of antler with moist edges until it gets snappy and very shiny. I don't like the shiny and so then I go in with the saddle soap and denim and canvas and rub rub rub, bringing in the antler now and again to shape things up, and stopping when I have more of a matte finish. When I'm done it's exactly what I want and is super smooth feeling. But my holsters see some IDPA time, they get some abuse but, it doesn't seem like it takes very MUCH abuse to start roughing my edges up. I'm not talking much roughing, but over time, say a year, they're pretty furry again and within just a few days of wearing a belt, the highest wear areas are rougher than I like. I am hoping that wax might add some wear to my edges and that I can still find away to cut the gloss. Any thoughts?

Edited by cityofthesouth
  • Members
Posted (edited)

OK here are some examples. With the Mag carrier you can see it's unused and the edges are what I'm shooting for. Not a lot of gloss but some, blocky edges rather than rounded, etc. Where the leather is 3 pieces thick always comes out real nice since it is so hard. Then you see my holster. This stuff was made together as a matching set with a belt and I'll have a light carrier and AR mag carrier too. The second image shows an edge that is still good, but I've had this holster out for a shooting and "break in" period - lots of reholstering (and you can see the rough edges at the top). So in the third image you can see where the gun barrel hits on reholster, stuff like that. I might be asking for too much but my edges just seem a little dry and not quite tough enough. Hope this helps. I'm going to the store to find some wax. Since this is a rig for myself I do lots of experimenting - I can live with my own mistakes. (edit: forgot to resize my images)

mag_carrier-1.jpg

holster_cleanedges-1.jpg

holster_roughedges-1.jpg

Edited by cityofthesouth
  • 2 months later...
  • Members
Posted

hey Bob,

I've been perusing a few threads after trying out your method for finishing the edges on my work -- exactly what dye are you using? I know you prefer the spirit based dyes..... I've been trying to get my edges finished using fiebing's professional oil dye (which is what I used to dye the leather to begin with) and haven't gotten satisfying results.....I'm going to try more coats of the dye for now but can you recommend a specific dye for this? Also -- I was looking through the fiebing's edge finishing offerings -- will this work? http://shop.fiebing.com/products/category/Edge+Dye/3267.0.1.1.72706.72784.72785.0.0

thanks for your help on this!

-- beka

don't fall off the roof....

Posted

hey Bob,

I've been perusing a few threads after trying out your method for finishing the edges on my work -- exactly what dye are you using? I know you prefer the spirit based dyes..... I've been trying to get my edges finished using fiebing's professional oil dye (which is what I used to dye the leather to begin with) and haven't gotten satisfying results.....I'm going to try more coats of the dye for now but can you recommend a specific dye for this? Also -- I was looking through the fiebing's edge finishing offerings -- will this work? http://shop.fiebing....72784.72785.0.0

thanks for your help on this!

-- beka

Hi Beka,

I only use Fiebings spirit based ( alcohol) dye on my edges. It penetrates quickly and dries quickly as well. I have never used an oil based dye on my edges but the feedback I get indicates that it doesn't penetrate as well. I know it takes a lot longer to dry, also, which is problematic because of the likelihood of picking up dye on your hands and transferring it on the surface which will ruin the piece.

The edge dye that Fiebings makes is very thick and slow to penetate. I don't use it.

Hope this helps....

Bobby

Leqatherworkerthumbnail2La.jpg LongLiveCowboys-1.jpgWFDPhoto2a.jpg

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.

×
×
  • Create New...