Members venator Posted December 7, 2015 Members Report Posted December 7, 2015 So I've been trying this and I find I always end up with little tiny puts and divots in my edge, often too you can see the split between the two pieces if I'm using two. Any suggestions?
Members Halitech Posted December 7, 2015 Members Report Posted December 7, 2015 make sure you are gluing right to the edge and put lots of pressure on them until dry. What kind of glue are you using? Are you going over your edge with sandpaper before burnishing? Every day you learn something is a good day. If you don't learn something every day, was it worth waking up for?
Members venator Posted December 7, 2015 Members Report Posted December 7, 2015 I use contact cement and I do indeed sand. It just seems when I do the glycerine and saddle soap the edge looks good but as soon as the dye goes on boom! Pits. Tiny ones but the samples make the edges look like glass...
Members Halitech Posted December 7, 2015 Members Report Posted December 7, 2015 maybe it's the soap, I just use water when burnishing and most of the time, I dye before I burnish. So it's sand, dye, burnish, beeswax Every day you learn something is a good day. If you don't learn something every day, was it worth waking up for?
Members leathervan Posted January 5, 2016 Members Report Posted January 5, 2016 the question that I have has to do with #3. If I rub glycerin bar soap into the leather doesn't it prevent the dye from being absorbed into the leather. I put dye on very thick first things after sanding the edges even and when the dye dries it is absorbed into the leather. Otherwise with bar soap first I would thing that the dye wouldn't absorb deeply into the leather.
hidepounder Posted January 5, 2016 Author Report Posted January 5, 2016 the question that I have has to do with #3. If I rub glycerin bar soap into the leather doesn't it prevent the dye from being absorbed into the leather. I put dye on very thick first things after sanding the edges even and when the dye dries it is absorbed into the leather. Otherwise with bar soap first I would thing that the dye wouldn't absorb deeply into the leather. The process of burnishing, by itself, and the process of burnishing with saddle soap, does impair the amount of dye an edge will absorb. The dye penetrates the saddle soap easily, however not as thoroughly as when you apply dye to the raw edge. On occasion you will have little sections which need to be re-touched. You have to decide for yourself, what your priority will be...dye absorption or crisp edge. You also have to decide on how much effort you are willing or able to put into your edges. The outcome is usually commensurate with the effort. You could add steps which might give you the best of both worlds but it might take double or triple the effort. A good example is the application of edge dressings such as the Fenice products which Tandy sells. Utilizing those products you can get amazing results, but they take hours to apply. I tend to go for the better finish and if that means I have to re-dye occasionally or re-burnish, then that's what I'll do. But I'm not willing to invest the time required to use the new edge dressings. I'm not THAT impressed with they way they look anyway. Hope this helps..... Bobby
hidepounder Posted January 5, 2016 Author Report Posted January 5, 2016 I use contact cement and I do indeed sand. It just seems when I do the glycerine and saddle soap the edge looks good but as soon as the dye goes on boom! Pits. Tiny ones but the samples make the edges look like glass... Without seeing the before and after or watching you burnish, it's hard to say exactly what the problem is. However I have experienced some of those issues myself. I use Fiebings dye which is spirit based, and occasionally I think the alcohol takes it's toll. However, as saddle soap is water soluble, water based dyes may cause these issues too. I've also learned that the leather makes a difference, as does the cut of the leather. The bottom line for me is, when these issues occur, I re-burnish and that usually solves the problem. It also usually gives me a better edge than the first pass did. When I'm satisfied with the dyed edge I perform a final burnishing step which is applying paraffin to the edge and burnishing it well into the leather. Then I polish with a clean soft cloth. The paraffin will usually fill in a lot of those tiny holes and make them go away. With regard to the glued edge, be sure you are using a good quality glue, like Barge, Masters, Duall or WeldWood. Be sure you're gluing out to the edge. Don't glue heavy and be sure to pound the pieces when you connect them and then sand them to make them flush. Hope some of this helps.... Bobby
Members CedarValley Posted February 10, 2016 Members Report Posted February 10, 2016 (edited) Bob, Thank you so very much for this outstanding tutorial and all the answers you have provided! I am new to this and this forum and I have learned more than I dreamed. I have two questions: 1) Is the Quik Slik you use in lieu of the glycerine or the saddle soap? Or both? 2) You said you use the Fiebing's yellow paste Saddle Soap. I have white. What is the difference? Can I use the white? When I purchased the white the fellow told me they are exactly the same. Thank you so VERY much for all the time you have dedicated to this! Scott Edited February 10, 2016 by CedarValley
hidepounder Posted February 11, 2016 Author Report Posted February 11, 2016 Hi Scott' When I use the Quick Slik or my own Edge Magic, I am substituting them for wetting the edge or using any soap at all. Both products work best for me with a cocobolo burnisher on a dremel. When using the Feibings saddle soap, either the white or the yellow will work. Someone told be they were the same but that the white was designed to be used with rawhide. I have no personal knowledge of that but it seemed to make sense and satisfied me at the time. I really can't tell any difference.
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