Finishing Edges

[FLYNN]

Hi, I'm new to thisForum

Can anybody help me to tell me how to make a clear edge like this?? It seems like no burn edge..

Thanks before Guys

Edited May 24, 2011 by FLYNN

[hidepounder]

Flynn,

The process for an undyed edge (like your photo) is exactly the same except you eliminate the "dye" step.

Bobby

[FLYNN]

Flynn,

The process for an undyed edge (like your photo) is exactly the same except you eliminate the "dye" step.

Bobby

Thanks Bobby

I'll try to do it..

I'm glad I found this forum

btw what is the best for clear edge like above??

Gum Tragacanth

Beeswax

Beeswax+Parrafin (can you tell me how to mix them and the best balance?50:50?)

or a

Saddle soap

Edited May 25, 2011 by FLYNN

[FLYNN]

Extras Question

btw what is the best for clear edge like above??

Gum Tragacanth

Beeswax

Beeswax+Parrafin (can you tell me how to mix them and the best balance?50:50?)

or a

Saddle soap

And where I can find "I use canvas wrapped around a motorized wood burnishing wheel which speeds up the process."

Will it make the edge darker? I really need a clear burnish edge like the picture above

And the neat-lac, can replaceable with saddle-lac from Fiebing?

what is the use of these?

Thank You very much

[hidepounder]

There is a brand new product out that I tested in my class for the first time last week. It is being distributed through Sheridan Leather Outfitters in Sheridan, WY (888.803.3030 ask for Vandy or Luke). I was very impressed with the results we achieved when we tested it in my class. The product is call Quik Slik. It is a clear slicking agent which is applied directly to a dry edged piece of leather which is then vigorously burnished with a heavy piece of cotton canvas. The result is a xcellent glossy polished edge! I preferr this product to Gum Trag, bees wax or Casing Solution because it can be dyed or oiled through. I chose to polish the edge with parafin and was very pleased.Gum Trag, Casing Solution, and bees wax are all good products to use as slicking agents for burnishing. Their only limitation is that they cannot be dyed through. Additionally there is absolutely no reason not to use saddle soap to produce a clear polished edge.

The burnishing machine that I use is available through Weaver Leather and Bielers Manufacturing. I would think they cost in excess of $500 and have to modified to use them the way that I do. However, you do not have make those kind of purchases to be able to produce professional quality edges. This can all be done very nicely by hand. If you do not have access to the required materials feel free to contact me. I have Cocobolo rubsticks made by Ed the BearMan, and 18 oz cotton duck burnishing mitts available which were left over from my classes at Sheridan. I also have edge dye pens and swivel knife strops available as well.

Hope this helps!

Bobby

hidepounder@cox.net

Edited May 25, 2011 by hidepounder

[rjowais]

Incredible work!

Thanks a lot for the valuable guide, a craftsman who shares his knowledge initiates a way that keeps a craft moving forward towards advancement!!!

[Mijo]

Hidepounder, thank you for sharing your technique as it's made a huge difference in the edges for the harness and leashes that I make. I do have a couple of questions though;

1. Does it make a difference if I bevel the edges before I sand?
2. In one of your responses to a question within this thread you mention that sanding should be done with mulitple grits, if I'm only going to be sanding with one grit what do you recommend (150 - 250)?
3. I use latigo and bridle leather that is already dyed, is there anything that I should be doing differently than what is listed in your original post?

Thanks again for sharing your knowledge.

Mijo

[hidepounder]

Hidepounder, thank you for sharing your technique as it's made a huge difference in the edges for the harness and leashes that I make. I do have a couple of questions though;

1. Does it make a difference if I bevel the edges before I sand?
2. In one of your responses to a question within this thread you mention that sanding should be done with mulitple grits, if I'm only going to be sanding with one grit what do you recommend (150 - 250)?
3. I use latigo and bridle leather that is already dyed, is there anything that I should be doing differently than what is listed in your original post?

Thanks again for sharing your knowledge.

Mijo

Hi Mijo,

For me the biggest reason to sand is to insure that two oieces glued together are perfectly smooth on the edge. Sanding also removes any residual glue that might be left on the edge. After I sand the glued edge, then I use my edger. If I have a single piece of leather I usually sand it also before I do my edging, just to insure that the edge is nice and smooth. I usually won't sand in multiple stages unless I am making a show piece. For me, sanding with multiple grits only makes a small difference and I'm not sure it is worth the effort on anything other than a show piece. Others will disagree with me and insist that sanding with multiple grits makes a big difference. I believe it all depends on the process you use and your sequence. I won't argue because there are a lot of different ways to skin a cat. My method is not necessarily the best method...it's just my method and it's an old and common one. When I sand I use a stationary belt sander with about a 150 grit belt that is fairly worn out. So I would think anything from 150 to 250 would be fine. If you are using a 600 grit belt you will probably burn the leather. If you are sanding with a dremmel I would think you would want a medium grit drum and I would error on the finer side rather than the coarse side. There is no real need to change methods on the latigo or bridle leather. However, just FYI, Gum Trag does a really good job on latigo as a slicking agent. Don't use it if you are going to dye the edges, but if they are to remain natural it works well. Also, I have been trying a new product from Sheridan Leather Outfitters called Quik Slik. It works pretty well and replaces the glycerine bar soap and the wetting of the edges, making it a little faster to use. The end result is pretty darned good. Also Greg Gomersall distributes a product which he uses as a slicking agent and it works well also. However, like Gum Trag, it is hard to dye through. I like it on latigo also!

Hope this helps....

Bobby

Edited July 11, 2011 by hidepounder

[Mijo]

Hidepounder - I've been using your posted techique since i found it and up until this point i've been using gum trag in place of saddle soap. well i'm almost out of the eco flo gum trag and decided to give saddle soap a go to see if there was any difference. In addition to fiebings saddle soap paste I ordered a couple of bars of their glycerin soap, b/c i've been using a natural plant based 100% glycerin bar soap.

Well I received the package with the fiebing's glycerin and saddle soap last week and when i looked on the instructions on the glycerin bar soap I couldn't help notice that it stated that users should wet the leather, apply the glycerin soap and then let the soap dry on the leather before wiping it off. When I finish edges should I be allowing the glycerin soap to dry in Step 3, of your posted instructions, before I apply the saddle soap in Step 4? I haven't been allowing the glycerin soap to dry and have been apply the gum trag to the glycerin soap while it's still wet.

[hidepounder]

Hidepounder - I've been using your posted techique since i found it and up until this point i've been using gum trag in place of saddle soap. well i'm almost out of the eco flo gum trag and decided to give saddle soap a go to see if there was any difference. In addition to fiebings saddle soap paste I ordered a couple of bars of their glycerin soap, b/c i've been using a natural plant based 100% glycerin bar soap.

Well I received the package with the fiebing's glycerin and saddle soap last week and when i looked on the instructions on the glycerin bar soap I couldn't help notice that it stated that users should wet the leather, apply the glycerin soap and then let the soap dry on the leather before wiping it off. When I finish edges should I be allowing the glycerin soap to dry in Step 3, of your posted instructions, before I apply the saddle soap in Step 4? I haven't been allowing the glycerin soap to dry and have been apply the gum trag to the glycerin soap while it's still wet.

Mijo.....I do not wait for the glycerin bar soap to dry before I burnish. Remember....we are using the glycerine bar as a "slicking" agent as opposed to what it was designed to be used for...therefore the instructions really don't apply. Also, when I add paste soap to my canvas, it is for the purpose of providing lubrication to the canvas so that I don't over burnish creating rough spots. I can't tell you why, but for some reason using just the glycerine bar on both the leather edge and the canvas, or using the paste soap only, just doesn't produce as good a result for me as using both. However, I think it is very common for a lot of makers to use paste only and they are content with the result. I probably go overboard....I think that's just my nature.....but I think my edges will stack up to most maker's results. In my opinion there is no real reason to apply gum trag if you've gone through the process of burnishing with saddle soap. After all, the gum trag is just used as a slicking agent like the saddle soap is, but it won't hurt a thing to use it. Maybe it will provide a longer lasting finish....I don't know.....I only use it on latigo where it does an excellent job.

Hope this helps.....

Bobby