Basic machine sewing questions - thoughts - practices

[Regis]

Lately been sewing bags and purses with 3-4oz leather. I've made some choices and am unsure if they are pretty standard.

Stitch length - I've settled on about 6-7 stitches per inch on glued seams of 2 & 3 layers of 3-4 oz. Decorative stitching length depends on size/type of design (e.g. 12spi for small with tight corners and 5spi for large with long lines.

Thread - I'm using 92. Would like 138 but my current portable Consew has small bobbins that run out very very quick with 138.

Needle - I have been using #20 needle for 92 thread. Don't really know if there is a relationship of needle size to leather thickness because you seem to be able to use a few different sizes for same thread..

Tension - I seem to have to adjust tension every time I switch to different combinations or types of leather. Don't know if that is my machine or if that always will be the case.

Start-stop - I'm using 2-3 back stitches all the time now. Pulling to inside doesn't always help unless I glue.

I have been trying to stop gluing so much and trying to clip together before sewing. I don't know if that is better or worse for long term.

Question - Should machines of this class ( Class 18, or 618, or 1541 etc ) be able to sew anything that will fit under the foot?

Skiving - I have not been skiving but, must now start to get smaller seams. Is it correct to skive everything down to 1-2 oz?

Thanks,

Regis

[Cobra Steve]

Hey Regis, to answer your question regarding "should a machine be able to sew anything that will fit under the foot". The answer is no, not correctly or feasable anyway. Lets say that the foot will lift 1/2", which the Class 18, 618, 1541 all will, doesn't mean that the machine will sew 1/2". The problem lies with the thread. To sew 1/2" skirting leather, or holster or sheaths, you will need a 277 thread and a # 24 or #25 needle, and these machines are not designed to do this. Yes they will sew chap leather, but who sews 1/2" chap leather? Your best bet is to realize that the machines will do what they are designed to do very well, but as soon as you start thinking that they may do more is when you start to get into trouble. Keep it simple... limit what you sew on these machines to 3/8" of anything, with a 138 on top, (207 maximum), on top, and 138 in the bobbin with a # 22,

(#23 maximum), needle, and you will be fine. If you want to sew heavier than this, then it is time to jump to the Class 3 or Class 4 style machines. THanks, Steve

[TomBanwell]

Regis,

Can you explain what you mean by "clip" the leather together? What do you use to clip it?

Thanks,

[Regis]

Tom,

Office depot calls them "Binder Clips". Here is a link

Binder clips

They hold the sizes of leather I work with very snug and real easy to take off as you sew.

Regis

[tonyc1]

We call them "Bulldog Clips" down here!

Tony.

Edited July 28, 2009 by tonyc1

[Art]

Not after them damned ants I hope, the binder clips don't hurt nearly as much.

Art

We call them "Bulldog Clips" down here!

Tony.

[Bree]

DNU 1541 can sew 138 thread but it is the max thread size for this machine. Quite frankly, I would not sew with 138 on the 1541. If you want thread that thick, go to a heavier stitcher. Avoid problems by not pushing the machine to its design limits.

My $02.

[neelsaddlery]

Hello:

If you are using a portable Consew, then this machine is not in the same class as the 618, 1541, etc. Machines such as the Cowboy Model 618, Model 797 and others are full blown industrial machines with large powerful motors and are capable of sewing a quite a bit heavier than the portable Consew type machines (that is -- if it is the same type of portable Consew that I am thinking of -- like the Salirite).

You mentioned that you are using a relatively thin leather with a size 92 thread. This should be OK for your portable Consew to sew.

If you go heavier, and with thicker thread, then it might be a good idea to go with a bigger machne like a 618 or 797 class machine.

Hope this is of some help to you.