EricDobson Posted September 25, 2010 Report Posted September 25, 2010 I realize I'm resurrecting a dead thread here, but... Is this the Tandy Imprinting Machine that was referred to above, and if so, wouldn't this Infinity Stamps Arbor Press be a much better deal? The 2-ton press weighs 100 pounds, it's cast iron, and it's cheaper. Am I missing something? I don't know the history here... perhaps the Infinity wasn't available six months ago... Quote EricDobson.com - My Neglected Blog
Members TroyS Posted September 26, 2010 Members Report Posted September 26, 2010 I use the hefty handle and a rubber mallet! Haha The Rubber mallet is your biggest problem. Every time you strike the hefty handle, the mallet absorbs a portion of your energy or force from the swing. Not to mention the bounce of your tool from the impact. With nothing solid to keep it from moving, both tools move. Hitting the hefty handle with a steel headed mallet will cause the Hefty Handle to fail. Tandy is know for NOT putting much quality in their tools. A few strikes will cause your hefty handle to mushroom out. You can try a "DEAD-BLOW" mallet. They are filled with beads of lead to give you the weight for a good striking force, but they don't bounce on impact. The real secret is a firm grip on your stamp. You can hit your Hefty Handle several times for a better impression AS LONG AS your stamp doesn't move between strikes. Try striking the tool, make sure tool is seated in original impression, then strike again. Repeat as necessary.... Quote Troy
Members CitizenKate Posted September 26, 2010 Members Report Posted September 26, 2010 Is this the Tandy Imprinting Machine that was referred to above, and if so, wouldn't this Infinity Stamps Arbor Press be a much better deal? The 2-ton press weighs 100 pounds, it's cast iron, and it's cheaper. Am I missing something? I don't know the history here... perhaps the Infinity wasn't available six months ago... Eric, I don't think you're "missing" anything. The arbor press does exactly the same thing as the imprinting machine, and with the addition of some custom attachments, you can make them do a lot more. Also, if you're considering getting an arbor press, don't forget to check at places like Harbor Freight or Ebay, where they often have really great deals on these machines. Kate Quote
Members azrider Posted October 22, 2010 Members Report Posted October 22, 2010 A really big one for getting these stamps not to bounce is the stamping surface. I just rebuilt my tooling desk, and have been amazed at how much bounce there was in the surface of my table. Now that there isn't flex there, the 3D stamps seem to go better. I have a 20 oz maul, hefty handle, and 1 inch thick stone. Tap to set, check that it's still straight, hit it hard. Quote Drygulch Leatherworks- Baldwin City, Kansas www.drygulchleather.com
Members Gawdzilla Posted January 25, 2011 Members Report Posted January 25, 2011 I have recently tried a woodworking bar clamp. You can apply increasing force to the stamp by tightening the clamp. Definitely not the tool for production but a stamp here or there is seems to give a deep impression with no double stamp caused by bouncing. You can also leave the stamp and leather in the clamp for a minute or two or days if you wish. I guess a regular C clamp could also be used. The abilty to tighten the clamp to the point the stamp could cut through the leather might have some advantage? I use a C-clamp all the time. I have yet to penetrate all the way through leather. The raised part of the stamp isn't as thick as the leather unless its really thin, so the base of the stamp hits the leather and stops it. I put a bit of paper under the leather before I clamp it so it doesn't stick to the table. That's usually not an issue if I wet the leather just before I clamp. If you get "chatter" when you stamp a C-clamp is a sure cure for that. And it's quiet, no hammering to be done. Quote
Members bkingery Posted January 28, 2011 Members Report Posted January 28, 2011 I've been trying to find a deadblow mallet that doesnt feel like it would poke a whole through it if I hit it hard and can't seem to find one. Any ideas???? Quote Don't like sugar in my coffee But love coffee with my sugar!!!!!
Members almac Posted January 29, 2011 Members Report Posted January 29, 2011 how about something like a 1 ton press like this? http://www.princessauto.com/workshop/garage/fabrication-and-equipment/shop-press/3460011-1-ton-arbor-press not too expensive, and im sure you can find something like it locally... Quote
Members bkingery Posted January 29, 2011 Members Report Posted January 29, 2011 how about something like a 1 ton press like this? http://www.princessa...ton-arbor-press not too expensive, and im sure you can find something like it locally... I actually have thought about one of the presses but they all have such narrow throats so I think I will probably just use my shopsmith. B Quote Don't like sugar in my coffee But love coffee with my sugar!!!!!
Members Ellen Posted February 7, 2011 Members Report Posted February 7, 2011 Tandy's ram foot and tabletop drill press here. Quote
Members leatherworklee Posted March 19, 2012 Members Report Posted March 19, 2012 I have an old drill press minus the motor that I bought for $15.00 that works quite well. The most important things to consider are: Is your leather properly cased? Review casing procedures elsewhere on this site. And do you have a good solid surface under your leather? A good marble or granite block makes a big difference. Placing the tooling block on a really solid bench helps to eliminate a lot of bounce. I often use a "Hefty Handle" as well. I was having problems with bounce after moving my shop and found that making an extra leg for the table that I was using for a tooling bench really helped. I used a piece of 4X4 located directly under my marble block.I Hope this ramble helps. Quote
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