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Hey electrathon, I agree with you and I feel your frustration. Cuz I believe we go to the same Tandy store (off sandy blvd?) great people in that store. Donna helped me tremendously when I got started and to this day. She has always done right by me when I've had a problem with a product not living up to expectation. For example the pink crystal rivets turn to clear in less than 6 months when exposed to sun light. She made good and gave me some to replace them and said she would let the higher ups know. Now if what you said above is true it just may fall on deaf ears which is unfortunate for Tandy because if I'm going to bling out tack or belts for customers I'm going to have to find a different supplier of crystal rivets because if they are still going to fade that won't look good for my business. I like shopping at that store for a lot of the same reasons as you and to add that I also like to put my hands on a product or tool before I buy. That's just how I roll. That reminds me I need to make a trip over there. I need a few things.

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ok ok Rayban i cowboyed up and tryed my eco flow dye and was happy with the color and the way it turned out i did tho make sure my leather was well cased and the misted my leather first then applied the dye got it as even as possible then took a flannel piece i had and rub the tar out of the whole piece to get as even a coat as i could and it runed out BUT i am a firm believer that if your leather is not of high quality you wwill not get a good dye job and i agree 100% with Kate that you should learn how to apply any dye what ever brand it is and thats something i havent done so you can beat me silly LOL

just my 2 bits worth sorry for getting long winded Ray should have stuffed a dye rag in my pie hole LOL

Cowboy316

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Cowboy316 I'm glad it worked out for you. Like I said in one of my earlier posts I hadn't any luck with it but I'm trying to apply it to dry leather too. Maybe that's the problem. Ill have to try it on a cased piece and see how it goes for me there. Btw how big was the piece you dyed? Any chance you could post a pic so we all can see?

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I don't think this thread was started to demean anyone at Tandy. They are always pleasant and helpful. The fact remains that the eco flo line of products has weak coverage and is a rather fragile finish that tends to rub off with heavy usage. Keep in mind that I make motorcycle seats and they get HEAVY usage. The only seat I ever used this product on is back in my shop looking like it has been destroyed because it rubbed off on some poor guys butt! It is a very expensive re-do for me. The eco flo line is good for somethings I'm sure. As long as they don't get heavy wear.

Fiebings products can be purchased directly from Fiebings in what ever quantity you choose.

One maker's opinion

David

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ok ok Rayban i cowboyed up and tryed my eco flow dye and was happy with the color and the way it turned out i did tho make sure my leather was well cased and the misted my leather first then applied the dye got it as even as possible then took a flannel piece i had and rub the tar out of the whole piece to get as even a coat as i could and it runed out

Cowboy316

Cowboy316:

I think the problem is that the leather was wet when you rubbed 'the tar out of the whole piece' ... first of all, you spread/diluted the color & ruined the piece (think: water + water-based dyes= mess + rubbing= greater mess), and secondly, after the flannel ended up spreading the mess further it seems that you inadvertently ended up burnishing the piece (think: burnishing edges by rubbing briskly with a cloth on damp/wet edges). Just my observation, my $0.02 worth.

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Doug,

Come and visit me and I'll see if I can help ...

Aargh! I'm having a wretched time using this new dye. It has a very weak coverage, and if I use a wool applicator, it foams up and leaves speckles. The strokes don't seem to blend as well as alcohol base dyes, but I made it work by giving about 3 extra rubdowns with dye on a cloth rag, but that's too many passes. I'm at the point of considering this stuff unuseable. I'd rate the difficulty of using it at a 7 on a ten scale. Any advice?

Doug

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hi guys just thought i would throw my 2cents worth in. its not the die but the method of use that needs practice the dies in of any ones make be it solvent based or water based need working with and they use different methods of application. i have seen great results with both dies, not in my work but in others who have put in the work with them. i use the spirit based because that's what i learned on. but that does not mean i cant get the same results with the water ones just need to practice with them.

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Here is an interesting timeline:

First Picture - June 2004 - I colored the florals on the purse with Fiebings spirit based dyes.

Next three pictures - May 2007 - three years later - most red and green color faded, brown gusset still OK - I redo one half of the purse with Eco Flo water based dyes.

Tomorrow I will add the picture I took today so that you can see what the purse looks like today after more than two years again ....

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Here is the same purse yesterday: more than two years after I redid half the flowers in Eco Flow dyes:

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Here is the same purse yesterday: more than two years after I redid half the flowers in Eco Flow dyes:

Looks good....what did you seal/finish it with?....and has it been used on a daily basis?

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Looks good....what did you seal/finish it with?....and has it been used on a daily basis?

It hangs in my store and people handle it every day - I just treat it every six months or so with Dr Jackson's Hide Rejuvenator.

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As an artist that works with leather, I really enjoy working with the Eco-Flo dyes. Comparing the water-based Eco-Flo dyes to alcohol base dyes is an unfair comparison. It would be like a painter comparing watercolors to oil paint. They both work great, but in different ways. For large areas I use an aerosol sprayer, and get a good even coverage.

Here is a leather Artist Trading Card I did with the EF dyes.ATC_016.jpg

As a parent that has children that attend many of the youth classes that Tandy puts on for different groups, I like the water-based dyes easy clean up and no solvents needed.

Considering the wide customer base and new government regulations for the craft industry, I think Tandy is doing a great job. Nobody is ever going to be everything to everyone.

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Thanks, Johan, for the offer of help. I'll be up in Mpls soon, and I'll stop in. Also, Kate, thanks for the info about colorfastness, and Johan , for your pictures. Good news, since my helmets are worn outdoors in the sun.

But, I'm worried now about rainshowers, as I just sent a customer a really nice helm dyed with EF. I did treat it with Aussie Balm, and then with Resolene Acrylic, so I'm fairly confident it'll be ok.

Also, I didn't know about casing before dyeing. That's bound to help. So, I'm encouraged about using the EF...just a matter of learning new techniques.

But, I'm seeking people's opinions on whether to use water base or spirit base for the helms. I like the colorfastness, but I'm not sure now about the waterfastness, and if sealing the leather would be reliable. I'd like to pick one and stick with it, so my results will be similar, and down the line, I won't be confused as to which dye I used on which helmet.

Here's a pic of the EF helm.

I'm amazed at how far this thread has gone.

Doug

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One thing I am a very firm believer in, is testing. I would pick a prime piece of leather, dye it as described, Doug, seal it, and then take it outside and hose it down, like a good rain shower. Do not overdo it, but see how the sealant holds up.

I have heard of mug makers sealing with SuperSheen and other mug makers sealing with molten beeswax - these could also be options for helms. And then there is Tankote, that seems to seal against newly made belts bleeding off on clothes.

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