How do I eliminate stretching and cupping when I am tooling?

[hidepounder]

After removing the leather from the backing (whichever method you use) does the piece have to be lined because of discoloration from the rubber cement or tape?

Mike

Mike: For me yes, I would suppose everyone else that uses it?

Hidepounder ~ you DA man. Thanks.

I agree....the tape residue or the glue residue will dictate that you apply a lining. But to me, that only makes it a better. Adding a nice finished lining is just a more professional way to complete your project.

Bobby

[Mike Craw]

Thanks guys!

Mike

[Crystal]

Just adding some supplier info I found web searching:

http://www.freckleface.com/

They carry different weights of acrylic sheets in different sizes and they also sell poly cutting boards. I ordered some 1/4" acrylic and was pleased with what I recieved.

Crystal

[loopinluke]

Hi Meg,

I glue everything I tool to a piece of acrylic. I do this after I have cased the leather at least over night. I slick my leather just before I put it up to case and again just before I mount it to the acrylic. I don't cut the leather to it's final size until I have slicked it the second time. Taping with packing tape works well but I prefer gluing to the acrylic because there is less chance of the the leather separating from the acrylic if I have to add moisture. Additionally, the acrylic is just so stable that I prefer tooling on it rather than allowing the leather to flex with the tape. It's just a personal preference thing for me. I am not concerned about any residual glue on the back because I line everything I tool. I feel it produces a much more profesional job.

Here is a photo of a piece I have glued down:

Gluing to acrylic gives me some other options as well. It gives me something to tape my pattern to so that it doesn't move while I am tracing:

When I cannot complete a piece in one sitting, I cover part of the leather with plastic wrap until I have finished the first tooling session and am ready to begin with the next section. Again, the acrylic provides something for me to seal the plastic wrap to, preserving the cased condition of the leather. This photo shows where I am working on one section of the project while the other half is being preserved under the plastic wrap:

There are a lot of methods which can be utilized to help prevent stretching....slicking and mounting to acrylic are just the ones I use.

Hope this helps....

Bobby

I have a couple questions after reading all the posts in this thread. What do you use to slick your leather, and how do you go about doing that? What would you suggest on something like a saddle that you cant really line? Thanks for all the help. Lucas

[Bear]

I use contact paper stuck to the back and trimed to size.

[BearMan]

Hi Everybody,

I saw this post a few days ago, & thought I'd add a little something that I've been doing for quite some time. I do the double packing tape method, but the main difference is, that I rubber cement it to a solid plastic place mat. I get these at Wally World, for about $1.00 each. They can be cut to size,,, but they come in an aprox. 12"X18" size. You'll know that you have the correct ones, if they are a 1 piece solid plastic. They will be stiff, without any soft backing. They are about 1/16" thick. I have yet to have any streching using these. Do Not use contact cement!! Contact Cement destroys the plastic.

One thing I really like about using these is, that when you want to remove the backing, you can lay the leather face down, & then peel the backing off, without bending the leather at all. Of course then you peel the tape off the same way. The residue that is left on the plastic backing can be removed by rubbing it with the heal of your hand,,, or you can get an "abrasive belt cleaner" at the hardware store. It looks like a giant gum eraser.

I hope this will be of some help. Ed the"BearMan"

Edited September 10, 2009 by BearMan

[TimKleffner]

Howdy Ya'll

I go to my local glass/ Plexiglass dealer and am able to buy scrap large enough to do what I need to in 1/4 or 3/8 . My dealer sells me his scrap by the pound. He's willing to sell it and get out of his shop and I'm happy as a lark to get what I need.

I take it home, get my orbital sander out with 120 grit and scuff both sides. Also I knock off all the sharp edges while I'm sanding. By scuffing both sides, I found that the plexiglass doesn't move around as much.

Hope this helps

Happy tooling

Tim