Generally confused by finishes/top coats

[wintermte]

I'm generally confused by finishes/top coats and am not really sure how to proceed. With bags, wallets, etc I've been using the Fiebings Super Sheen but I'm getting some rub off from it sometimes. I made a black motorcycle seat (with Fiebings spirit dye) and used spray on Saddle Lac to seal it in to prevent rub off, and this seems to be working well. I also made a rear motorcycle seat and it is dyed orange and black (Fiebings as well) and covered it with Saddle Lac, but now I'm seeing some yellowing on the seat. I'm not sure why I'm getting the yellowing?

So I've been reading and found an article on the Springfield leather site about how to choose a top finish and they recommend using the Pro Clear or Angelus clear. Angelus's web site indicates that their 600 and 605 top finishes will not rub off. Is this correct? I would rather not use a spray on lacquer finish as I don't seem to have much control of how it goes on and it seams to be pretty temperamental about how it is applied.

Can anyone offer some advice which top finishes to use? I'm at a loss.

Thanks,

Dan

[TwinOaks]

Asking "what finish should I use?" will get nearly as many answers as there are members!!

So, for my $.02, I like Leather Balm w/ atom wax. Please note that I haven't tried sno-seal, pecard's, Dr. Jacksons, ....the list goes on. As far as using the spray on laquers, you might want to spray everything in the can into a small jar, then toss the can. Apply with wool scraps, and rub it lightly. Sprayed on finish (laquer) doesn't seem to get into the leather as well, and is prone to cracking.

Another issue to consider is the rub-off from the dye. When you use dyes, even spirit dyes, you need to buff the leather before applying a sealant/topcoat. Often times there are tiny particles of the dye that do not absorb into the leather, and instead sit on the surface. That's what's causing the color transfer you're seeing. Try a few test pieces with varying degrees of buffing + topcoat. One last thing to think about...are you letting the solvents from the dye completely dry before applying the topcoat?

[wintermte]

Asking "what finish should I use?" will get nearly as many answers as there are members!!

So, for my $.02, I like Leather Balm w/ atom wax. Please note that I haven't tried sno-seal, pecard's, Dr. Jacksons, ....the list goes on. As far as using the spray on laquers, you might want to spray everything in the can into a small jar, then toss the can. Apply with wool scraps, and rub it lightly. Sprayed on finish (laquer) doesn't seem to get into the leather as well, and is prone to cracking.

Another issue to consider is the rub-off from the dye. When you use dyes, even spirit dyes, you need to buff the leather before applying a sealant/topcoat. Often times there are tiny particles of the dye that do not absorb into the leather, and instead sit on the surface. That's what's causing the color transfer you're seeing. Try a few test pieces with varying degrees of buffing + topcoat. One last thing to think about...are you letting the solvents from the dye completely dry before applying the topcoat?

Thanks for the suggestions. It is possible that I'm not letting the dye dry enough before applying the the top coat, I do however always buff it before applying a top coat. The rub-off that I am most concerned about is that which occurs over several months of constant use. Maybe that is the just way it is. It was mentioned in the motorcycle section on a couple of occasions that black is a huge offender for this. It seems that people used to use neet lac or saddle lac to combat this, but you can't buy neet lac any longer and saddle lac only seems to come in the spray can which I've had very poor success with thus far. I just did some grips for my cycle today, and I top coated with the Leather balm you mentioned. They look really nice with the top coat, but I guess only time will tell how well they resist being affected by rub off.

Dan

[rawhide1]

Dan

I just ordered some clearLac which is the same as neatlac from Panhandle leather in Amarillo. I think Springfield leather carries it also.

Mike

[TTcustom]

I think that black is the worse offender for rub off. The oil dye doesn't seem to rub off like the spirit dye does though.

[katsass]

I'm generally confused by finishes/top coats and am not really sure how to proceed. With bags, wallets, etc I've been using the Fiebings Super Sheen but I'm getting some rub off from it sometimes. I made a black motorcycle seat (with Fiebings spirit dye) and used spray on Saddle Lac to seal it in to prevent rub off, and this seems to be working well. I also made a rear motorcycle seat and it is dyed orange and black (Fiebings as well) and covered it with Saddle Lac, but now I'm seeing some yellowing on the seat. I'm not sure why I'm getting the yellowing?

So I've been reading and found an article on the Springfield leather site about how to choose a top finish and they recommend using the Pro Clear or Angelus clear. Angelus's web site indicates that their 600 and 605 top finishes will not rub off. Is this correct? I would rather not use a spray on lacquer finish as I don't seem to have much control of how it goes on and it seams to be pretty temperamental about how it is applied.

Can anyone offer some advice which top finishes to use? I'm at a loss.

Thanks,

Dan

A top coat I found many years ago (that was used as a substitute for Tandy's "Neat Sheen") that seems to seal the dyes well and has no rub off is a 50/50 mix of (believe it or not) "Mop '&' Glo". (Yep, the floor stuff) The stuff is an acrylic, just lke "Neat Sheen". I apply with an airbrush or a slightly damp (clean) sponge. You can get a matte finish or gloss depending on number of coats. I've used it for years with no complaints. Pictured are a couple of my holsters showing matte and gloss finishes with this stuff. Mike

[jbird]

I use bag kote on most all my work and clear lac.

I like them both each one has it's uses.

Josh

[electrathon]

A top coat I found many years ago (that was used as a substitute for Tandy's "Neat Sheen") that seems to seal the dyes well and has no rub off is a 50/50 mix of (believe it or not) "Mop '&' Glo". (Yep, the floor stuff) The stuff is an acrylic, just lke "Neat Sheen". I apply with an airbrush or a slightly damp (clean) sponge. You can get a matte finish or gloss depending on number of coats. I've used it for years with no complaints. Pictured are a couple of my holsters showing matte and gloss finishes with this stuff. Mike

OK, I am intrigued by this idea. What are you using as the other 50% mixed in with the mop & glo?

Aaron

[frontpost]

Many saddle factories use finishes from Johnson wax in 55 gal. drums. We made harness in the 70's and used clear floor wax, worked great. The cost is much less when buying in gallons or more.

[frontpost]

I would say 50/50 with water.

Edited September 8, 2009 by frontpost

[Hennessy]

i was showed a way to dye black that i consider'd [no way] but upon testing i found amazing results it's crazy but here it is.when your ready to apply dye,'don't' apply lacquer first,dry then dye , buff n lac or 2nd coat if necessary, buff then lac,it works really well pete