Stitch types & names - what are they

[Regis]

In recent threads, I've seen some sewing terminology that I don't know or am unsure of.

Examples : bar tack, box or gate stich pattern, and another one or two that I can't locate at the moment. I can guess some of these but, that is it, a guess.

Would someone enlighten me (and probably some others) by showing some examples and explainations? Closeups would be wonderful. I did some googles and mostly ended up with equipment or crocheting info.

Knowing what these are/mean would help greatly in understanding some of the machine sewing dialog. And, would allow some of us to frame proper questions.

Thanks a lot,

Regis

[Cobra Steve]

Regis, there are literally hundreds of bar tack stitches. There are bar tacks that sew belt loops onto pants, or many times are used for adding strength to a seam, like the corners of pockets. These are called straight tacks. Where ever there is a stress point is where you will find a bar tack stitch. A bar tack does the same thing as a back tack. It sews over the same stitches twice, for added strength. The only difference is, it is driven by a cam, so it only does 1 stitch type. You can change the cam, gears, and clamp to achieve different patterns as well. There are box x stitches that are common on seat belts or on nylon webbing projects. A box x stitch adds strength as well. You can also change the cam, gears, and clamp to change the patterns on box x machines as well. There are also programmable tackers. These are computerized machines that allow you to change to hundreds of different patterns. The only thing that you will need are different clamps(clamps hold the material in one place so the machine can sew the desired pattern) enabling you to have the ability to use one machine for many different tacking jobs. This is just the basic stuff regarding tackers. Thanks, Steve

[Art]

Hi Regis,

The specs for Stitches and Stitching are in ASTM D6193-97, it is everything you did or didn't want to know about the subject. This publication is invaluable when writing a specification or order for garment work or leatherwork (although to a more limited degree, like that? more limited -- love my oxys). There is a free copy on the web here. It is a pretty big document and takes a minute or two to download on my high speed lines, just wait for it.

Art

In recent threads, I've seen some sewing terminology that I don't know or am unsure of.

Examples : bar tack, box or gate stich pattern, and another one or two that I can't locate at the moment. I can guess some of these but, that is it, a guess.

Would someone enlighten me (and probably some others) by showing some examples and explainations? Closeups would be wonderful. I did some googles and mostly ended up with equipment or crocheting info.

Knowing what these are/mean would help greatly in understanding some of the machine sewing dialog. And, would allow some of us to frame proper questions.

Thanks a lot,

Regis

[Regis]

Hi Regis,

The specs for Stitches and Stitching are in ASTM D6193-97, it is everything you did or didn't want to know about the subject. This publication is invaluable when writing a specification or order for garment work or leatherwork (although to a more limited degree, like that? more limited -- love my oxys). There is a free copy on the web here. It is a pretty big document and takes a minute or two to download on my high speed lines, just wait for it.

Art

Art,

Now that's a lot to digest and, I don't know how much control we have over stitch types. I liked the "usage" table at the end, interesting. Now, I just need to find the "one" stitch that my machine does.

Thanks for all the info and I can see the relevance to spec writing.

Regis

[Art]

Hi Regis,

Unless it is a serger or some wierdo thing, it is doing a 301.

Art

Art,

Now that's a lot to digest and, I don't know how much control we have over stitch types. I liked the "usage" table at the end, interesting. Now, I just need to find the "one" stitch that my machine does.

Thanks for all the info and I can see the relevance to spec writing.

Regis

[barra]

This is an experiment in attaching files. The terminology may differ slightly from region to region.

The blue rectangle I know as a box stitch (pattern) Adding the 2 diagonals makes it a gate stitch pattern (cos it looks like a gate) If you look at the pic of the shoulder straps on the back pack, you will see this pattern. By adding the little one stitch up you can stitch over to the other side for the other diagonal without back stitching over the original box pattern.

ASTM (American society for testing materials) is our bible especially when working off technical drawings. Don't get fussed over all those weird stitch patterns. As Art said stock standard plain ol lock stitch is pattern 301. The ASTM link that Art put up also shows the different seams, plain seam, top/french, balloon seam etc

gate stitch.doc

gate stitch.doc

Edited September 4, 2009 by barra

[Regis]

Barra,

That make perfect sense, especially with the drawing. I've probably seen that on a thousand items without relating to discussions here. Yep found all the seam types interesting and wish I could do some of them on 4/5 oz leather. I'll probably never write or use sewing spec's like that but found it interesting never-the-less.

Thanks,

Regis

This is an experiment in attaching files. The terminology may differ slightly from region to region.

The blue rectangle I know as a box stitch (pattern) Adding the 2 diagonals makes it a gate stitch pattern (cos it looks like a gate) If you look at the pic of the shoulder straps on the back pack, you will see this pattern. By adding the little one stitch up you can stitch over to the other side for the other diagonal without back stitching over the original box pattern.

ASTM (American society for testing materials) is our bible especially when working off technical drawings. Don't get fussed over all those weird stitch patterns. As Art said stock standard plain ol lock stitch is pattern 301. The ASTM link that Art put up also shows the different seams, plain seam, top/french, balloon seam etc

[barra]

Then we have a 3 and a 5 point double W. These have been added for illustration purposes. They are used primarily on safety harnesses (you may see these on your car seat belts)where you want strength. On most other items they would be over kill.

Ok so I haven't mastered drawing on a computer but you should get the idea.

Barra

3 point double W.doc

5 point double W.doc

3 point double W.doc

5 point double W.doc

Edited September 4, 2009 by barra

[Art]

Hi Barra,

The side stitches are the failure point on any of the Ws. I've seen Ws done all in zigzag, some straight for the Ws and zz for the edges. This is all for sail work where they use all dacron which doesn't stretch at all. For nylon, you can do it any old way, there is plenty of stretch although I still like the zz for luffs, leeches, and feet (on mains), but luffs and feet primarily; wire halyards and outhauls can put a lot of pressure there especially when they have a winch attached. If you straight stitch in the direction of the tension, the stitches can pop quite easily.

Art

Then we have a 3 and a 5 point double W. These have been added for illustration purposes. They are used primarily on safety harnesses (you may see these on your car seat belts)where you want strength. On most other items they would be over kill.

Ok so I haven't mastered drawing on a computer but you should get the idea.

Barra