sourkraut Report post Posted September 5, 2009 I have a Pfaff 30 and have been using it for motorcycle uhpolstery and some other small jobs. I have the ability to purchase 5 different types of Pfaff machines and want your opions and knowledge. A company is going out of business and they have 463, 483, 1445, 545 a46/01clmn10 and 545 h4 with a walking foot. I would like to be able to use which ever I purchase as a all around machine if possible. The company did auto interior so they should suite my needs. I have seen the you tube and post on here about the 545 and would love a brute like that but not sure if you can do upholstery and heavier leather such as tack or holsters with one machine. Thanks in advance for any help! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Cobra Steve Report post Posted September 5, 2009 sourkraut, the Pfaff 545 in my opinion, is the best walking foot machine that Pfaff ever made. This machine will take care of all of your light to medium sewing for leather. For best results, you will want to change the motor to a servo, and add a speed reducer, this will give you the control that you need. It will cost some money, (probably close to $300.00 dollars) but depending on what you pay for the machine, it will be worth it. You will also want to either, buff the presser feet so they don't mark the leather,or buy a set of smooth bottom feet for leather, and of course, use a leather point needle. The needle is a 190R system, unless a mechanic somewhere along the line, converted it to the more popular 135X16 system. Thanks, Steve Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
canoeguy Report post Posted November 14, 2009 I just purchased a PFAFF 545-H3 today, tried it out before I bought it, it ate through 2 layers of 8oz veg tan without much trouble. Anyone have any idea where I can get the manual for it? Also anyone know what the h3/h4 etc mean Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Techsew Ron Report post Posted November 17, 2009 Canoeguy, I can e-mail you a digital version (.pdf) of the Pfaff 545 manual, just send me a PM with your email address. Enjoy your new machine, Ron Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
canoeguy Report post Posted November 19, 2009 Canoeguy, I can e-mail you a digital version (.pdf) of the Pfaff 545 manual, just send me a PM with your email address. Enjoy your new machine, Ron Ronnie, Thanks for the reply, PM sent with email. Also does anyone know if the 545 is supposed to be able to sew with size 207 thread? I read somewhere on this forum that it should, but the guy I bought it from doubtted that it would. I had some sample spools of size 207 Nylon thread and I have been trying to get it to work. Mostly the top thread will bunch underneath, but if I get the tensions (top & Bottom) just right I can 'almost' get it to work (no bunching, but bobbin thread doesn't pull into material properly, just sits on material). I feel like I'm close,... I tried this thread size on both veg tanned leather and some type of heavy duty rubber coated nylon with same result. Machine works great with size 92 (only other thread size I have so far). I don't know, it seems like the thread clearances are fine for 207 including the hook/bobbin area, of course this is based on my nowhere near expert opinion. I am pretty new at this, everything I know now was learned in a few very frustrating nights in a pile of trial material and yards of wasted thread. I am using a size 22 needle, It seems pretty beefy and the thread fits throught the eye easily so I assume this is right,... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wizcrafts Report post Posted November 19, 2009 You will need to move up to a #25 needle to sew #207 thread, on the top and bottom. Or, use #207 on top and #138 in the bobbin, with a #24 needle. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ryano Report post Posted November 20, 2009 (edited) Ronnie, Thanks for the reply, PM sent with email. Also does anyone know if the 545 is supposed to be able to sew with size 207 thread? I read somewhere on this forum that it should, but the guy I bought it from doubtted that it would. I had some sample spools of size 207 Nylon thread and I have been trying to get it to work. Mostly the top thread will bunch underneath, but if I get the tensions (top & Bottom) just right I can 'almost' get it to work (no bunching, but bobbin thread doesn't pull into material properly, just sits on material). I feel like I'm close,... I tried this thread size on both veg tanned leather and some type of heavy duty rubber coated nylon with same result. Machine works great with size 92 (only other thread size I have so far). I don't know, it seems like the thread clearances are fine for 207 including the hook/bobbin area, of course this is based on my nowhere near expert opinion. I am pretty new at this, everything I know now was learned in a few very frustrating nights in a pile of trial material and yards of wasted thread. I am using a size 22 needle, It seems pretty beefy and the thread fits throught the eye easily so I assume this is right,... Canoeguy, Are you using a wedge point needle by chance? My Singer 211 sews 207, with a 23 needle, in 2 layers of 8 oz dry leather as long as I am using a wedge point needle. I have tried to cheat and use a round point needle and it starts fraying and breaking the thread. The rubber coated nylon needs more tension than leather, but should still be able to do it I would think with the round point needle. My Singer does. Edited November 20, 2009 by ryano Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
canoeguy Report post Posted November 24, 2009 Thanks guys, I guess I'll buy some different needles. I am currently using only the shazrp pointed needles that the guy gave me with the machine. I am assuming that they are appropriate for the nylon material he sews (same sample amterial I have). Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Gemini1950 Report post Posted February 11, 2014 Hi: I am a new Pfaff 545 H3 entusiast!! a 545 H3 is my current project I do not have a thread guide; I have gotten it to sew / I am sure I do not have the proper thread pattern Would a 545 H3 manual be available yet I believe I am missing the pad touches the Sewing Head Lifter that comes off the Knee lift on the sewwing table now a clevis type of end pushes on the lift mechanism on the sewing head [lts a lota words that barely describe...] Any input will be appreciated Regards: Myles: gemini@gemini.ab.ca Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Trox Report post Posted February 15, 2014 Send an email to Pfaff industrial and they will send you an pdf manual. The H4 is the heaviest subclass of the 545 and the H3 is the next best. Google is you friend. I do not remember the url. Good luck Tor Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wizcrafts Report post Posted October 16, 2016 3 hours ago, Sticks said: Hi Guys, what is the largest thread one can use in the Pfaff 30 machine.? It is a standard domestic Class 15 machine. You will be limited to #69 bonded nylon thread, using a #18 leather point needle. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kohlrausch Report post Posted October 18, 2016 (edited) 1 hour ago, Sticks said: Thanks Wiz, One more (silly) question pls,,do you happen to know what this size corresponds to ?? I am assuming it is not 60s as this is tiny, ie 10s,20s,30s,40s etc. thnx Wiz does this machine use a lower drive belt like the Pfaff 130 ? Hi, Wiz is using US-sizing. In Europe that would be size 110 needles and size 40/3 thread. The Pfaff 30 being an CB-sewing machine uses a pair of rocking levers to create the oscillating movement of the shuttle. Greets Ralf C. Edited October 18, 2016 by Kohlrausch Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kohlrausch Report post Posted October 19, 2016 9 hours ago, Sticks said: Oh yes forgot to add, the machine is missing the little needle bar. would this make a significant difference to the making of the stitch.? No. The needlebar is optional. You can always handhold leatherneedles and use the traditional saddler stitch. Greets Ralf C. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TinkerTailor Report post Posted October 19, 2016 (edited) 33 minutes ago, Sticks said: Would the machine work without it assuming all else was correct.? Ralf was making a sarcastic joke, a pretty funny one I might add. You may want to go back to your parts list and check the name of what you are talking about (or post pic) because the needlebar is what the needle mounts into. No needlebar= no place to mount needle. No needle in machine=hand sewing. Edited October 19, 2016 by TinkerTailor Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TinkerTailor Report post Posted October 19, 2016 Yeah, it is just a thread guide. I have run my machines without in by accident and it seemed to work ok. You may have inconsistent stitches and some skipping, but you will generally have stitches. It's job is to tame some of the waves in the thread created by the takeup lever whipping it up and down, and keep it running straight into the scarf of the needle. On the Pfaff 30, the thread enters this at quite an angle, and it probably is nessecary, specially when going fast. This probably is a part that could easily be adapted from another machine, if it is not available itself. That part missing will not be why the machine is binding, and likely isn't the reason why the bottom thread does not get picked up. Most common reason for binding in a machine is thread, dirt, broken needles etc, caught up in the workings. Number 2 is lack of lube. Number 3 is adjustment. Look for faults in this order. 1 and 2 should really be combined in my opinion. These are not troubleshooting, they are maintenance. A clean up and lube should be done at the onset of ANY problem. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TinkerTailor Report post Posted October 19, 2016 I think it is called a needle clamp thread guide, however things like this do develop local naming, and end up with more than one. Is it held up under the needle bar with a single screw? If it is held on with a screw, a piece of steel or preferably stainless wire and some needlenose should do ya. Put a loop in one end for the screw to attach it, and use the screw and a washer to hold it down. Bend other end up to look like one in the pictures. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites