jt1 Report post Posted March 23, 2008 This seems like it would be an easy thing to do, but it is giving me more trouble that anything else. What tool are you guys using to cut out your leather after your pattern is complete, I have not been able to get a good, clean cut that is parallel. I am using a razor knife with good sharp blades on a rubber backing board and cannot seem to to get an even up and down cut, mine are angled one way or another and when the leather is glued together the edges are not even and when I try to even them up, I usually just make it worse. This is even worse in the curved areas. What side are you cutting from? Using 7-8 oz leather, should I be cutting in one pass? Thanks for any help. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Duke Report post Posted March 24, 2008 when I do my holsters, I use 8-9 oz and use a utility knife. after all my tooling is done, and ive glued the item together, I stitch it then sand the edges even, then bevel them.another way to do it, is to only cut one side out,andwhen you fold it over, use the side you cut out as a guide to cut the rest out.a sponge sanding block or a belt sander works good to even edges. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BillB Report post Posted March 24, 2008 If your are referring to the pattern of the leather pieces, I use a rotary knife to cut the leather into the pieces that will be assembled into the final product. If you are referring to the design pattern that will be tooled into the leather, then I use a swivel knife with a carbon steel 1/4 inch angled blade. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Hilly Report post Posted March 24, 2008 While I was using a utility knife, I got results much like you are describing. After stitching, I just sanded the edges till they were even. I have since bought a head knife, and am able to effortlessly cut through 8-9oz leather in one pass, with straight edges (no undercutting). It cuts curves very easily - even pretty tight curves. Just have to tip the blade back onto it's point to do curves. Head knives take a little practice and demand a LOT of respect, but after buying one, I will never go back to cutting with a utility knife! If you plan on continuing with leatherwork, consider purchasing a head knife. They cost a few $$$, but you won't regret it. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
paris3200 Report post Posted March 24, 2008 I am using a razor knife with good sharp blades on a rubber backing board I agree with Hilly that a head knife is the way to go, but cutting on a rubber backed board is not helping you. Your knife is probably cutting heavily into the rubber board. Try using a hard plastic board like the kind cutting boards for the kitchen are made from. I seem to recall a post not to long about suppliers for cutting boards. A quick search should turn something up. Jason Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ferret Report post Posted March 24, 2008 Utility knives are good for opening boxes, rotary knives make good pizza cutters, for cutting leather you need a good sharp head knife. Once you've used one you'll realize why they've been essential since the middle ages. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Duke Report post Posted March 24, 2008 I agree with the head knife suggestion. I have one I bought a while back, but the handle needs to be shortened since I have smaller hands, and then sharpened the rest of the way.its an Al stohlman brand knife and I know that they dont come ready to use. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
scott Report post Posted March 31, 2008 i generally put my patteren down before i cut it out with my swivel knife then cut my borderes twice nice and deep. it's a little more pain in the butt and more time but gives you really nice borderes. your swivel knife won't cut all the way through but any kind of a knife will lay in the cut. hope that helps Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mikeymoto Report post Posted April 9, 2008 (edited) After all the raves about the "head knife" let's get a tutorial on how to use it effectively. I picked one up a couple weeks back but I haven't yet found a good grip or technique that makes it as easy and effective to use as the praise here suggests. I have not spent a lot of time on it, because I have a utility knife that works ok and orders to get out the door. My first few thoughts after I brought the head knife home and sharpened it up were that it looked like a great way to cut my own wrist. Edited April 9, 2008 by mikeymoto Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rawhide Report post Posted April 9, 2008 After all the raves about the "head knife" let's get a tutorial on how to use it effectively. I picked one up a couple weeks back but I haven't yet found a good grip or technique that makes it as easy and effective to use as the praise here suggests. I have not spent a lot of time on it, because I have a utility knife that works ok and orders to get out the door.My first few thoughts after I brought the head knife home and sharpened it up were that it looked like a great way to cut my own wrist. Here's the forum link on How to use a head knife. This is pretty much how I use mine. Marlon Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Studio-N Report post Posted April 9, 2008 Hello. I know that many people recommend a head or round knife, which does work very well but there is a learning curve in becoming proficient with it. I prefer to use an industrial scalpel, such as: Industrial Knife One major difference of course is that you cut on a PULL which most people are already comfortable versus cutting on a push. If find it works well on all leathers. The straight blade that comes with it is for use as a paring knife, but the hooked scalpel blade works for straight lines and curves. Just my 2 cents worth. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mikeymoto Report post Posted April 9, 2008 Here's the forum link on How to use a head knife.This is pretty much how I use mine. Marlon I've tried reading that page before. When I open the link there is no content there! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rawhide Report post Posted April 9, 2008 Hello. I know that many people recommend a head or round knife, which does work very well but there is a learning curve in becoming proficient with it. I prefer to use an industrial scalpel, such as:Industrial Knife One major difference of course is that you cut on a PULL which most people are already comfortable versus cutting on a push. If find it works well on all leathers. The straight blade that comes with it is for use as a paring knife, but the hooked scalpel blade works for straight lines and curves. Just my 2 cents worth. I have one of those as well, but two things I don't like. One, it usually takes more than one pass to cut through thick leather effectively (meaning without pulling the leather). Two, I almost carved my self up with it, because I was pulling it toward me. I think you are most safe when pushing a sharp edge away from you than pulling it toward you. It doesn't take long to get used to a head knife. The learning curve is how to sharpen it. Marlon Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pip Report post Posted April 10, 2008 Utility knives are good for opening boxes, rotary knives make good pizza cutters, for cutting leather you need a good sharp head knife. Once you've used one you'll realize why they've been essential since the middle ages. The only thing Ive managed to cut so far with mine is me!!!!! I am definately doing it wrong. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Denise Report post Posted April 10, 2008 I've tried reading that page before. When I open the link there is no content there! Mikey, I tried the link and it took a while to come down on my dial up. I had little colored boxes for a while and figured that it wasn't working, so I went and checked e-mails and when I came back it had finished downloading. Please try it again and see if it works. If not, let us know and one of the people who knows more about computers than I probably ever will can check it out. Thanks, Denise Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mikeymoto Report post Posted April 10, 2008 I tried the link and it took a while to come down on my dial up. I had little colored boxes for a while and figured that it wasn't working, so I went and checked e-mails and when I came back it had finished downloading. Please try it again and see if it works. If not, let us know and one of the people who knows more about computers than I probably ever will can check it out. I got around to checking the page source and saw it was made using MS Office. The page does not load using Firefox on Linux or Windows. You apparently must use Internet Explorer. Boo on that, but I finally got it opened, so yay on that. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Timbo Report post Posted April 11, 2008 I agree with alot of what has been said. A head knife is good, and I have yet to master mine. The rubber backing is definitely going to cause problems. When you say razor knife are you talking about one that has the break off to get a new point type of blade?? Or are you talking about what most people refer to as a box cutter with a retractable double ended blade?? The latter is what I have used more than anything. One trick to keeping it up and down is not to hold it the same as if you were opening boxes with it, with it clenched in your fist with the blade up. That hold makes it hard to follow your lines and you have to be over and above what you are cutting, which makes it impossible to get a consistent straight up and down cut. I hold mine like a pencil, but with 2 fingers on top and two below with the thumb on the side. This way I can get closer to what I am cutting and follow the lines better. It is also easier to hold it straight up and down this way. And obviously you'll be pulling it toward you. Never lift it out of the cut either, if you can help it. But also like everyone else has said, I too use a belt sander to even it all up. I allow for this on most of my patterns. Be careful with the sander as it is a whole nother accident waiting to happen. (scrapped a really nice holster with the belt sander) Tim Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mikeymoto Report post Posted April 11, 2008 Be careful with the sander as it is a whole nother accident waiting to happen. (scrapped a really nice holster with the belt sander)Tim Hehe, been there and done that! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rbrooks Report post Posted March 22, 2009 it1, I agree with many of the replies I just read about your problem,so I would like to put in my two cents worth. I`ve been in the saddle making business for 35 years or so and I can tell you there is no correct way to cut leather. First off your utility knife works perfect except in some really sharp, tight curves. Like anything else its how you use it. If you have a cutting table lay out your pattern on your leather and cut by drawing the knife toward you, but pull with your body and do not pull with your arm. I stick the blade down through the leather and pull with my body while keeping my arm,hand and knife in a locked position. you can pull that knife through any thickness of leather that way. If you shove your knife to far down into you rubber mat it will be impossible to cut your leather evenly. Keep that knife vertical as possible. Head knifes and round knifes are great knifes too but they do take a lot of practise. always push away from yor body wit these knives unless you wish to loss some part of your anatomy. You can also stick the blade down through the leater and roll it along a straight line for straps. If you are putting two pieces together for sewing, oversize the bottom piece, sew it and then trim off the exces leather. Hope i`ve been of some help. Good Luck! rbrooks Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites