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I have a Brother KE-430D. I have used size 130 thread on it, but it required all the tension I could put on it to set the stitch. That was using a size 22 needle which is about the max for this machine. I did box X's on welding jackets going through 2 ply of 4 oz suede and 2 ply of heavy elastic. For that I used a size 21 titanium needle (regular point, not leather) and size 80 Kevlar thread. The tension release mechanism must be adjusted so the tension isn't released sewing through a lot of thickness. The biggest advantage of the newer tackers is speed control. I'd say a used Brother could be located for $3-$4k. On my older line tackers, I regularly use 105 thread with no issues. Larger than that requires some modifications. Regards, Eric

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Posted

Titanium and Kevlar -- you're speaking my language!

Would you say that a box x sewn (nicely) by hand VS a few straight line bar tacks would be much of a strength difference in a connection between two pieces of webbing?

What would you say is the ideal thread size and type for attaching webbing? I guess that's more of a question about rigging than leather working -- but if somebody knows..?!?

I have a pretty good local sewing machine mechanic guy who is helping me out -- will check to see what he has for tackers today.

Picture is how local MC jacket repair lady has been sewing my proto's...have separated one of these.

post-46953-0-75299500-1384790114_thumb.j

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Posted
  On 11/18/2013 at 3:57 PM, pitchdev said:

Titanium and Kevlar -- you're speaking my language!

Would you say that a box x sewn (nicely) by hand VS a few straight line bar tacks would be much of a strength difference in a connection between two pieces of webbing?

What would you say is the ideal thread size and type for attaching webbing? I guess that's more of a question about rigging than leather working -- but if somebody knows..?!?

This is too complicated to answer simply in a post here. For complete, documented, and accurate answers to your questions (there are quite a few variables in there...for one, it would depend on the type of webbing, etc.), you'd need to read the Poynter manual. (This one (http://www.amazon.com/The-Parachute-Manual-Aerodynamic-Decelerators/dp/0915516802/ref=sr_sp-atf_title_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1384792548&sr=8-3&keywords=poynter+manual or Volume 1, if you can find either one in a library...many libraries have one or both...)

That will give you best, most accurate answers to those questions without any supposition or conjecture.

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Posted

Thanks much for that recommendation TXAG - I'd have never found that or thought of that. Will look into it.

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Posted

You're welcome...I have a lot of experience in skydiving, so have known it as a reference for a while now...it has a lot of different techniques for sewing x-boxes, strength of various webbing and thread, etc...I think it's exactly what you need...

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Posted

That is a rare book -- my librarian searched for it internationally -- only 88 libraries in the world have it.

There is one copy in Portland, but they won't let it out of the reference section.

They're requesting a library loan for a copy for me -- maybe it will come from the Naval aeronautics institute in China (they've got it)

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Posted

Weird...it's in several libraries around me locally. It's not really a rare book...there may only be 88 libraries willing to loan it out via interlibrary loan, but they're not rare. Just about every parachute rigger in the US has (or SHOULD have) at least one volume.

If you are serious about sewing and doing it to high standards (especially nylon or cotton fabrics and webbing), you ought to own the book anyway.

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Posted (edited)

milzed

Edited by gottaknow
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  On 11/19/2013 at 6:54 AM, gottaknow said:

milzed

?

Posted IMHO, by Wiz

My current crop of sewing machines:

Cowboy CB4500, Singer 107w3, Singer 139w109, Singer 168G101, Singer 29k71, Singer 31-15, Singer 111w103, Singer 211G156, Adler 30-7 on power stand, Techsew 2700, Fortuna power skiver and a Pfaff 4 thread 2 needle serger.

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Posted

wow -- thought I knew my web lingo -- I had to look that one up

milzed:

To revisit one's past postings on online web message forums, and retroactively delete the text, replacing it with minimally requisite text allowed by the forum's software, such as "...".

One purpose of milzing one's past postings is to erase evidence of such postings, so as to remove the ability of others to quote you.

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