First holster finished

[medicdave]

This is my first holster, and my first time working leather since I was in Boy Scouts years ago. This was more of an experiment as to what the pattern I made would actually produce, rather than making a "masterpiece". This is also my first attempt at wet molding/boning. The goal of the pattern is a John Wayneish holster to wear on a seperate gunbelt in the field and on horse back. More of a working rig. I molded in the detail to provide retention without a thong. It is vegitanned 9/10oz shoulder finished with linseed oil, no lining. Let me know how to improve. Any help on stitchng and getting a better finish on the flesh side would be appreciated. Thanks Dave P.S. for the gun guys thats a Lipseys limited edition flattop in 44spl.

[BOOMSTICKHolsters]

I think it is a good idea to make a test run holster or a mock up on new designs. It helps a lot if you have been there before when you're constructing a challenging project. Personally, I would look into lining the holster with some lighter weight leather so you don't have to worry about the flesh side. The Bianchi DVDs you ordered will have more info on what weights to use, but keep in mind he doesn't bone for retention so you might go ahead and keep it lighter weight than he does. Boning the holster for retention aside, I would still consider adding a hammer thong on the holster if you are planning on riding with it, just in case you need to use it at some point. Otherwise you can keep it tucked away.

Stitching just takes the right information and a lot of practice (Al Stohlman's book has good info). It is also important to have the right tools for the job and stay consistent so the stitches don't stray off line or deviate in their placement.

[Lobo]

Ditto on the lining, especially with the Rugers which use an alloy trigger guard/grip frame assembly that does not handle holster wear without finish damage in short order. For applications like this I have found that 7-8 oz. veg-tanned lined with 2-3 oz. suede or smooth leather works well.

Ditto on the hammer thong. Very useful when riding, and can prevent nasty damage should the revolver fall out (the Rugers are pretty safe due to the transfer bar striker design; other handguns are not so safe when dropped, so accidents can happen).

Overall, nice design and execution. The details will get better with practice.

[katsass]

Good morning Dave. I agree with Boomstick, Al Stohlman's book "How to Make Holsters" will help you a lot when working out standard 'pouch' style holsters. (I got my copy in about 1960) I use two layers of 4/5 oz. vegtanned leather for most of my stuff. They are glued together with BARGE or a similar contact cement so that you have smooth leather on each side...inside and out. I wet mold after all stitching is done and prior to any finish BUT I do not bone them. If the pattern is drawn well and the molding properly worked, the gun will produce a satisfying "thunk" as the it is inserted into the holster (after thorough drying) For a holster intended for use while riding you NEED a saftey strap or thong of some kind........you never know what can happen.

( A sideline here....although not from horseback riding, this guy was still bounced around pretty well in this instance.) A friend of mine was was assigned as a spotter for an air search/rescue while we were working for our Sheriff's Dept. He was wearing a pouch style hi-ride holster of his own making. No safety strap. While slightly leaning out over a scene he lost a 4" Model 19 S&W pistol out of the chopper at about 100 ft in the air. It was found about 2 months later by a hiker and turned in, in pretty rough shape.

The book will show you a number of types of retention meathods, from a simple thong to two piece outside thumb release. It also will give a pretty good explanation of saddle stitching, from beginning to end. Stitching takes time, concentration and practice to come out well. I hand stitch all of my work. I enclose a few pics of a little holster I made a while ago. It shows the smooth inside as well as the stitching and the slight molding. You have started on a hobby that can become a passion or even a profession. I'm pushing real hard at 70 yrs of age, and still am learning, but love the feel of working leather. Your first effort is better than many I have seen. Keep it up!! Mike

[Rayban]

Medic.....looks like a good solid piece of leather. Good job.....

My take on lining...looks nice but if your rig is to be a user, so what if a little blueing rubs off?

But then again, if you stitched all around the piece like you have, adding a liner to the next one won't be much work for ya.

You may end up doing what I have in the past...made a piece with the intention of it being a "sample/experimental/trial run" then having it turn out so good that I never felt the need to make another.

In short, I likie!!

[medicdave]

Thanks for the kind words and encouragement. Any holster will cause blue wear lined or not, just the nature of the beast. I do like the look of lined holsters, just wanted to make sure this was something I could do passable well before sinking a ton of money into different leathers, tools etc. I do agree retention is more important on horseback, I spend most of my time on the ground or in vehicles working the farm, ride more for pleasure. Anything especially hard about rifle scabbards, or just more stitching? Thanks again Dave

[katsass]

Thanks for the kind words and encouragement. Any holster will cause blue wear lined or not, just the nature of the beast. I do like the look of lined holsters, just wanted to make sure this was something I could do passable well before sinking a ton of money into different leathers, tools etc. I do agree retention is more important on horseback, I spend most of my time on the ground or in vehicles working the farm, ride more for pleasure. Anything especially hard about rifle scabbards, or just more stitching? Thanks again Dave

Well Dave, re: rifle scabbards, here are a few examples of some that I have done. The first is a soft scabbard made for a 'Shiloh Sharps' in .50/90. It's made from a combination of doeskin and elk hide. It's lined but not padded. The rest are shotgun soft scabbards, fully lined and padded. The first of these is made from a combination of chrome tanned split and vegtanned. Vegtanned portion is 'branded'. The next is from a combination of heavy upholstery leather and vegtanned with a matching shell pouch. The last is from 10 oz vegtanned cowhide, 'branded'. The handle is hand made by me and attached with brass "D" rings. The little pouch is for a removable shell catcher.

As far as dificulty, punching holes for stitching and/or lacing can be a REAL bitch!! when using a lining. When using a lining AND padding it can be worse!! When using padding DO NOT use foam rubber (it will turn to dust after a few years) use 'batting' obtained from a fabric store. Other than that the only problem I've found is working with the size of the creation. Different leathers do handle differently and zippers ain't easy! Hope this gives you some ideas. Mike

Edited September 18, 2009 by katsass

[Jim]

Thanks for the kind words and encouragement. Any holster will cause blue wear lined or not, just the nature of the beast. I do like the look of lined holsters, just wanted to make sure this was something I could do passable well before sinking a ton of money into different leathers, tools etc. I do agree retention is more important on horseback, I spend most of my time on the ground or in vehicles working the farm, ride more for pleasure. Anything especially hard about rifle scabbards, or just more stitching? Thanks again Dave

Dave, I developed a method for making lined holsters that does not require lots of tools nor lots of time to make. Truth be told, you how to make a fully lined and ready to use holster in about six hours. No wet molding required! The only drawback (if there is one) is that it requires hand stitching. I can also show you how to add retention without rubbing off the bluing . . . . much.

If you you're interested, holler at me. The one shown here was made in about five hours and was ready to use right off the bench.

Jim

Edited September 19, 2009 by Jim

[dbusarow]

Dave, I developed a method for making lined holsters that does not require lots of tools nor lots of time to make. Truth be told, you how to make a fully lined and ready to use holster in about six hours. No wet molding required! The only drawback (if there is one) is that it requires hand stitching. I can also show you how to add retention without rubbing off the bluing . . . . much.

If you you're interested, holler at me. The one shown here was made in about five hours and was ready to use right off the bench.

Jim

Jim,

I bet there's more than one of us hear that would appreciate reading about your method. If you're inclined to write it up I know I sure would be.

Thanks,

Dan

[MADMAX22]

I agree with Dan, Jim if you could write one up Im sure it would be well read. I know I would

[Jim]

I'll get on that this weekend, along with the way I accidently discovered the method.

Jim