Need help repairing Singer 112W139 stitch length mechanism

[DougVL]

Looking for help repairing my new-to-me old Singer 112W139 machine. I tried to find out just how old

it is, but Singer says their data from the period when my serial number W1324293 was made was lost

during or after WW II.

I recently got a Singer 112W139 and I need some help with it. The stitch length adjustment doesn't

work. The machine sews pretty well but only at the longest stitch length.

I have been examining the stitch length adjustment mechanism but I don't understand how it works. I

have seen the mechanisms on other machines - home sewing models and my Mitsubishi LU2-400. I

understand those, but they're all different than the 111W series machines with the stitch length

adjustment control at the center of the machine drive pulley and working inside the machine's upper arm

shaft.

On my machine, the adjuster won't turn, which would move it in and out because of the thread on the

pulley end of the arm shaft. I have found that the FEED DRIVING ECCENTRIC REGULATING SCREW (part number

200429) is broken and about half of it is missing. The lower, rounded-end part that would engage the

point on the end of the FEED REGULATING SPINDLE (part number 224122) is gone. Or maybe still stuck

inside the FEED DRIVING ECCENTRIC REGULATING BRACKET (part number 237521).

I would really like to find a diagram that shows the machine's feed length components together in

their working relationship. I have a Mitsubishi LU2-4410 manual and it has a sort of cutaway drawing like that, and I've

seen feed mechanism drawings in the couple of sewing machine repair books I've been able to read.

Page 18 of the 111W & 112w manuals have an X-ray view of the Feed Driving Eccentric Regulating Bracket

and Shaft which shows the the adjusting screw, and the spring and plunger on the opposite side of the

shaft. But it doesn't show what the shaft is adjusting or how adjusting it affects the stroke of the

stitch length mechanism.

So, if anyone can help me find some information to help troubleshoot and repair my machine, I'll be

very grateful! And of course I need to find a few parts, even a new arm shaft (p/n 240102) because the

stitch length control thread on the pulley end has also been damaged, presumably by someone's attempts

to turn the adjustment. Although replacing that shaft would be very difficult - maybe I'll have to

live with limited functionality of the stitch length control if I can even get the adjustment mechanism

to work at all.

BTW, I'd also like to find out when it was made. Its serial number is W1324293, but the Singer dating

site says the records for this range of serial numbers was lost or destroyed around the time of WW II.

[CowboyBob]

I'll try to explain it,the feed cam @ the top pivots towards & away from the shaft as you turn the knob in & out because the end of the shaft is tapered to a point,so since the threads are srtipped you can just push the stitch length adjuster in all the way & then go in through the top cover & there should be a small screw to take out & a longer one that you can turn in or out to adj. the stitch length.The short screw locks the longer one from turning when sewing.

I can get a new top shaft & most other parts if needed.

[DougVL]

I'll try to explain it,the feed cam @ the top pivots towards & away from the shaft as you turn the knob in & out because the end of the shaft is tapered to a point,so since the threads are srtipped you can just push the stitch length adjuster in all the way & then go in through the top cover & there should be a small screw to take out & a longer one that you can turn in or out to adj. the stitch length.The short screw locks the longer one from turning when sewing.

I can get a new top shaft & most other parts if needed.

Bob -

Thanks for the info and the quick response.

The longer adjusting screw you mentioned is the one that's broken. The rounded tip end of it is missing, and may be somewhere inside the shaft. With the long & short adjustment screws removed, by poking a small screwdriver in I can feel the pointed end of the stitch length adjustment spindle, although the hole is too deep and narrow to actually see the point of the spindle down there. The thread on the end of the shaft is broken off in a couple of spots at the very end of the shaft, apparently from someone trying very hard to turn the stitch adjustment.

I still need to try turning the machine up on end with the stitch length adjustment spindle removed to see if the broken part of the screw falls out, but it may be jammed in tightly.

For my primary intended use, full max length stitch is about all I'd need and so I don't really have to repair it. But I'd really like to be able to, just because repairing things has been my job and hobby for a long time.

Doug

[CowboyBob]

Doug,

You could get a piece of roundstock long enough to go past the hole & then you won't need to worry about that broken off piece of screw just tighten on the flat spot of the round piece you put in there.

[DougVL]

Doug,

You could get a piece of roundstock long enough to go past the hole & then you won't need to worry about that broken off piece of screw just tighten on the flat spot of the round piece you put in there.

Put the round stock into the end of the arm shaft? Or into the setscrew hole, where the broken screw goes? The first would be about 6 inches of 1/4 inch diameter, the second about 1 inch of 1/8 inch diameter.

I did tip the machine up on end and get the piece of broken off screw to come out. It's about the same length as the the other part, with the screw head and a few threads and a little of the smaller diameter threadless tip.

Doug

[CowboyBob]

Doug,

Pull the knob & stitch adjuster shaft out & put it in there, yes,around 6" long.We put a small bend in them (the shaft) so they don't slide out.

[DougVL]

Doug,

Pull the knob & stitch adjuster shaft out & put it in there, yes,around 6" long.We put a small bend in them (the shaft) so they don't slide out.

Thanks! Now I understand.

It did seem like the pointed end of the adjuster shaft must be doing the work, but I had thought that it might be the side of the taper, working as a cam. But this means that the taper was for the tip of the adjusting screw to limit the movement of the adjuster shaft inwards.

[DougVL]

Thanks! Now I understand.

It did seem like the pointed end of the adjuster shaft must be doing the work, but I had thought that it might be the side of the taper, working as a cam. But this means that the taper was for the tip of the adjusting screw to limit the movement of the adjuster shaft inwards.

FOLLOWUP POSTING: that didn't work. One of the interior parts is broken off and the shaft cannot adjust the stitch. By loosening a clamp bolt on a feed length bracket, I can adjust it, and then tighten the bolt to hold that setting.

Doug

[Cobra Steve]

FOLLOWUP POSTING: that didn't work. One of the interior parts is broken off and the shaft cannot adjust the stitch. By loosening a clamp bolt on a feed length bracket, I can adjust it, and then tighten the bolt to hold that setting.

Doug

Hi Doug, just a follow up to what Bob said... you might need to oil and spray some penetrant into the mechanism. I have seen many machines that the stitch length mechanism is frozen and needs to be broken free. Try this as well as what Bob said. Thanks, Steve

[CowboyBob]

Doug,

Here's a internal view of the stitch length adjuster ,the screw @ 9:00 is where the part slides back & forth when you adj the stitch either by turn the knob DD in & out or you can takeout screw BB & turn CC in f/longer & out f/shorter.

Does your screw CC have the pin on the end of it?Also is DD all the way in when trying to adj?

Let me know if you have anymore questions.

Thx,

Bob Kovar

[CowboyBob]

Doug,

Here's a page with the diagram of the stitch length mechanism.

Bob111w old style stitch length info.bmp

111w old style stitch length info.bmp

[DougVL]

Doug,

Here's a page with the diagram of the stitch length mechanism.

Bob111w old style stitch length info.bmp

Bob -

Thanks for the picture. I had found others like it in other Singer manuals, but this one is clearer.

My screw CC is broken in half. I fished out the broken-off tip by putting a magnet on the shaft of a long,thin screrwdriver and poking it down into the hole after removing both screws.

In my case, to adjust the stitch length, I loosen the unlabeled clamp bolt located at 9 o'clock in this picture, rotate the eccentric a little, then re-tighten the bolt to hold the adjustment. Otherwise the spring, at the bottom of the eccentric (6 o'clock in the picture) pushes the stitch length all the way to either the min or max length - I forget which.

Cobra Steve -

It wasn't dirty or stuck, but I did clean and lightly oil it. Thanks for the tip!

Doug

[DougVL]

<br />Bob -<br /><br />Thanks for the picture.  I had found others like it in other Singer manuals, but this one is clearer.<br />My screw CC is broken in half.  I fished out the broken-off tip by putting a magnet on the shaft of a long,thin screrwdriver and poking it down into the hole after removing both screws.<br /><br />In my case, to adjust the stitch length, I loosen the unlabeled clamp bolt located at 9 o'clock in this picture, rotate the eccentric a little, then re-tighten the bolt to hold the adjustment.  Otherwise the spring, at the bottom of the eccentric (6 o'clock in the picture) pushes the stitch length all the way to either the min or max length - I forget which.<br /><br />Cobra Steve -<br /><br />It wasn't dirty or stuck, but I did clean and lightly oil it.  Thanks for the tip!<br /><br />Doug<br />

<br /><br /><br />

Bob -

I received you PM, but for some reason this time I can't answer or respond to it. I wanted to send my email address, and ask about a part for a Singer 29K73.

Doug

[CowboyBob]

my email address is: sewmun@aol.com

[Neuseweather]

I just repaired a 107W3 which is similar and had the same broken screws. I can take pictures to detail the repair if anyone is interested. Very simple and only required ~$4 in parts which were still available. These things are pretty much bullet proof, Just the old manuals are the weak link.

[DougVL]

I just repaired a 107W3 which is similar and had the same broken screws. I can take pictures to detail the repair if anyone is interested. Very simple and only required ~$4 in parts which were still available. These things are pretty much bullet proof, Just the old manuals are the weak link.

Pictures might be nice, but the parts source would be even nicer!

Doug

[busted]

Looking for help repairing my new-to-me old Singer 112W139 machine. I tried to find out just how old

it is, but Singer says their data from the period when my serial number W1324293 was made was lost

during or after WW II.

I recently got a Singer 112W139 and I need some help with it. The stitch length adjustment doesn't

work. The machine sews pretty well but only at the longest stitch length.

I have been examining the stitch length adjustment mechanism but I don't understand how it works. I

have seen the mechanisms on other machines - home sewing models and my Mitsubishi LU2-400. I

understand those, but they're all different than the 111W series machines with the stitch length

adjustment control at the center of the machine drive pulley and working inside the machine's upper arm

shaft.

On my machine, the adjuster won't turn, which would move it in and out because of the thread on the

pulley end of the arm shaft. I have found that the FEED DRIVING ECCENTRIC REGULATING SCREW (part number

200429) is broken and about half of it is missing. The lower, rounded-end part that would engage the

point on the end of the FEED REGULATING SPINDLE (part number 224122) is gone. Or maybe still stuck

inside the FEED DRIVING ECCENTRIC REGULATING BRACKET (part number 237521).

I would really like to find a diagram that shows the machine's feed length components together in

their working relationship. I have a Mitsubishi LU2-4410 manual and it has a sort of cutaway drawing like that, and I've

seen feed mechanism drawings in the couple of sewing machine repair books I've been able to read.

Page 18 of the 111W & 112w manuals have an X-ray view of the Feed Driving Eccentric Regulating Bracket

and Shaft which shows the the adjusting screw, and the spring and plunger on the opposite side of the

shaft. But it doesn't show what the shaft is adjusting or how adjusting it affects the stroke of the

stitch length mechanism.

So, if anyone can help me find some information to help troubleshoot and repair my machine, I'll be

very grateful! And of course I need to find a few parts, even a new arm shaft (p/n 240102) because the

stitch length control thread on the pulley end has also been damaged, presumably by someone's attempts

to turn the adjustment. Although replacing that shaft would be very difficult - maybe I'll have to

live with limited functionality of the stitch length control if I can even get the adjustment mechanism

to work at all.

BTW, I'd also like to find out when it was made. Its serial number is W1324293, but the Singer dating

site says the records for this range of serial numbers was lost or destroyed around the time of WW II.

Did you get this machine working properly yet? If not here is a link you might be interested in Index of /IPpartChart