Urshag Report post Posted November 8, 2010 Nice mugs mate, i have been waiting for these any following the progress, the hammer finish looks good, like the colours too, what did you use, i tried again to get the reptile effect but no luck even with the wax at 200 deg.C in the deep fat frier, your work NICE. and again thanks to angster for his help to me when i made my first mugs. Regards, Steve,. Hi Steve! I had written a reply the day after you had written yours but I don't see it here so it must not have posted correctly. When you say "what did you use" what are you reffering to? If you are reffering to the stain, I used Medium Brown Antique stain on the one with the Oak leaves and I painted the leaves with an acrylic gold paint. The one in the group shot on the far left was also done with the Medium Brown Antique stain. The other two were done with a medium brown dye. Dennis Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Big Steve Report post Posted November 12, 2010 Hi Steve! I had written a reply the day after you had written yours but I don't see it here so it must not have posted correctly. When you say "what did you use" what are you reffering to? If you are reffering to the stain, I used Medium Brown Antique stain on the one with the Oak leaves and I painted the leaves with an acrylic gold paint. The one in the group shot on the far left was also done with the Medium Brown Antique stain. The other two were done with a medium brown dye. Dennis Dennis, yea i was talking about the dye/stain thanks for the info, Regards, Steve. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mrs Barry Hicks Report post Posted May 23, 2011 (edited) I am going to try and make a tooled leather mug. I was hoping to find a good tutorial. And WOW I didn't expect to find and awesome one! Jeesh, you're making this really easy! I'll send you a pic when I'm done. Thanks again for such a wonderful job. It takes time to do this and I just want you to know I truly appreciate it! Thanks! Barry OH and how much Wax/Pitch mix do you need to line a mug? I'm looking to buy some to make a few (10) mugs? Don't know how many lbs to buy. Thanks again! Edited May 23, 2011 by Mrs Barry Hicks Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mrdabeetle Report post Posted May 24, 2011 I'm always worried about the seal being "food safe" and I have also heard that the wax can alter the flavor slightly, so for the mugs that I have made, I've been using plastic inserts from used frosting containers. They are just about the right size and you can put coffee in it without altering the flavor. I just make a koozie (sp?) with a handle. (make sure that you punch a large hole or series of holes in the base if you plan to remove the plastic to wash) I would suggest this as a good starting point for inexperienced persons who would like to try to make a mug. Also, it's an excuse to have cake! I wish I had pictures of a finished mug, but I gave them out as Christmas presents. Anyway, Great tutorial. I have been meaning to try it, but I have been too chicken to get started. I'll give it a shot. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Angster Report post Posted May 31, 2011 Thank you for your kind words! I'm happy to share what I know and love to see how others take my ideas and run with them. Let the imagination flow! As far as the amount of pitch/wax you need for a mug... Since I saturate the leather with wax first, you'll need more wax than pitch overall. Roughly a pound of pitch will be enough for 15 - 20 mugs. For that number of mugs, I think I'd go through 5, maybe 6 pounds of bees wax. So I would suggest that you start with a single pound of pitch and a couple of pounds of beeswax. As you make more, you'll probably need to get more wax. Then with the taste issue, I've not noticed any flavor from the beeswax/pitch mix. However, I think some 'flavor' may be influenced by the slight smell of a freshly sealed mug. The wax/pitch has an oddly-pleasing, faint scent of honey-flavored pine trees. But this scent seems to disappear in a day or two as the seal becomes 'seasoned'. This is about the same amount of time it takes for the seal to loose any of its remaining tackiness. I LOVE the idea of using the plastic frosting can as an insert! That's awesome and I'll have to try it out. Loves me some frosting, too! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mrs Barry Hicks Report post Posted June 23, 2011 Well I've got another question for you. Do you find that after tooling the leather and dying it, when you put the mug in the hot wax, do you lose any detail in the tooling? I could use any advise possible. Barry Thank you for your kind words! I'm happy to share what I know and love to see how others take my ideas and run with them. Let the imagination flow! As far as the amount of pitch/wax you need for a mug... Since I saturate the leather with wax first, you'll need more wax than pitch overall. Roughly a pound of pitch will be enough for 15 - 20 mugs. For that number of mugs, I think I'd go through 5, maybe 6 pounds of bees wax. So I would suggest that you start with a single pound of pitch and a couple of pounds of beeswax. As you make more, you'll probably need to get more wax. Then with the taste issue, I've not noticed any flavor from the beeswax/pitch mix. However, I think some 'flavor' may be influenced by the slight smell of a freshly sealed mug. The wax/pitch has an oddly-pleasing, faint scent of honey-flavored pine trees. But this scent seems to disappear in a day or two as the seal becomes 'seasoned'. This is about the same amount of time it takes for the seal to loose any of its remaining tackiness. I LOVE the idea of using the plastic frosting can as an insert! That's awesome and I'll have to try it out. Loves me some frosting, too! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Angster Report post Posted June 23, 2011 No, I haven't noticed any loss of tooling. I think it's because the leather is not in the wax long enough for it to 'soak', I guess...? And I tend to be a bit subtle when tooling (I just don't hammer as hard as others), so I'd think it would be more apparent for me. You should be fine. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jason Austin Report post Posted July 8, 2011 I have not been able to get rid of the tackiness of the lining. Its totally usable but a bit annoying and dust sticks to it like mad. I wonder if my mixture is wrong. I also went down the road of using other things a liners. I have had good luck with stainless steel. You can buy stainless bottles pretty cheap and then cut the tops off. This also makes it so that you don't need to wax the leather and, therefore, you can dye/stain/finish the leather like you would any other project. Jason Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Luke Hatley Report post Posted July 9, 2011 I have not been able to get rid of the tackiness of the lining. Its totally usable but a bit annoying and dust sticks to it like mad. I wonder if my mixture is wrong. I also went down the road of using other things a liners. I have had good luck with stainless steel. You can buy stainless bottles pretty cheap and then cut the tops off. This also makes it so that you don't need to wax the leather and, therefore, you can dye/stain/finish the leather like you would any other project. Jason Jason what type of Pitch were you using and where did you get it.? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jason Austin Report post Posted July 11, 2011 Jason what type of Pitch were you using and where did you get it.? Hi Luke, I was using the pine pitch from Townsend. Its the only stuff I have found anywhere. Jason Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Luke Hatley Report post Posted July 11, 2011 (edited) Hi Luke, I was using the pine pitch from Townsend. Its the only stuff I have found anywhere. Jason Like wise.......I'll keep looking for the real Black stuff..one of these days it'll show up. I have 10 "Blackjack Mugs" i am wanting to line. Edited July 11, 2011 by Luke Hatley Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Southtexas Report post Posted July 11, 2011 Like wise.......I'll keep looking for the real Black stuff..one of these days it'll show up. I have 10 "Blackjack Mugs" i am wanting to line. http://www.riogrande.com/MemberArea/SearchPage.aspx?page=GRID&free_text=pitch If the link doesn't work, go to Rio Grande Jewelery Supply, do a search for Pitch. They have black pitch Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mrs Barry Hicks Report post Posted August 24, 2011 Angster, here's a link to the mugs I ended up making. Thanks again for this tutorial... really helped me! my mugs Thanks again for you help! Barry Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bard Skye Report post Posted October 5, 2011 Angster Something I've been wondering about. How do you keep the wax from darkening your artwork? I tried to wax harden a sheath one time. Worked quite well, but the bright red dye turned a deep maroon (quite lovely, actually, but not what I wanted) and the brown dye turned nearly black. Any pointers? BTW, that autumn leaf mug in your other post was bloody GORGEOUS! Skye Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Angster Report post Posted October 12, 2011 Skye, With dyes and stains, the wax hardening is going to change the color. If I'm trying for specific colors, I'll use acrylic paints. I haven't seen the wax saturation process alter the colors any (even metallics for the most part) and the process acts like a sealer for the paint. Of course, you'll need to make sure the paint is completely dry before waxing, and I'll even thin the paint a bit to make sure the leather 'grabs' it well enough. The skull bottle I use as my profile picture was done 6 years ago (I think, maybe 5). We've taken it with us around the country and it's been under waterfalls, bouncing in the surf, dropped off 2nd story balconies (not on purpose). Over the years it has started to develop some scuff marks that has removed some of the paint, but that's about the only way you'll get the paint to come off. Hope this helps! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bard Skye Report post Posted October 12, 2011 Skye, With dyes and stains, the wax hardening is going to change the color. If I'm trying for specific colors, I'll use acrylic paints. I haven't seen the wax saturation process alter the colors any (even metallics for the most part) and the process acts like a sealer for the paint. Of course, you'll need to make sure the paint is completely dry before waxing, and I'll even thin the paint a bit to make sure the leather 'grabs' it well enough. The skull bottle I use as my profile picture was done 6 years ago (I think, maybe 5). We've taken it with us around the country and it's been under waterfalls, bouncing in the surf, dropped off 2nd story balconies (not on purpose). Over the years it has started to develop some scuff marks that has removed some of the paint, but that's about the only way you'll get the paint to come off. Hope this helps! It does indeed! Just what I wanted to know. Hmmmm..... Acrylics over Vinigaroon..... Thank You! Skye Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Harag Report post Posted April 19, 2013 Thanks for an excellent tutorial, much appreciated. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jeremyw501 Report post Posted April 24, 2013 Thank you for a great tutorial! I am just entering the world of leather and trying to decide where I want to start the journey. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mujician Report post Posted May 19, 2018 Is brewers pitch a neccesity, or can a tankard like this be successfully sealed with just beeswax? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fredk Report post Posted May 19, 2018 Beeswax melts at about 65 degrees; it'll do for cold drinks but not hot. It won't do for anything containing alcohol either as it dissolves the beeswax Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mujician Report post Posted May 19, 2018 Ah, okay - so fairly important then? How about a 50/50 mix of beeswax and pitch? I have seen this suggested by someone somewhere else. I am yet to try making a leather mug - but When I do, what is the best way to apply the pitch? can it be painted on, or does it need pouring in and the cup rotating or another method? Does it matter how close to the rim the pitch is? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mujician Report post Posted May 19, 2018 Also - would casting, or epoxy resin be a suitable modern alternative to pitch? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fredk Report post Posted May 19, 2018 A. I cannot really answer about pitch as I have not used it on anything. However as far as I know, brewers pitch comes as a solid and needs heated to liquefy it, beeswax can be added as a flow enhancer and to help the pitch stay flexible. The hot liquid pitch is poured into the container, which has been warmed, and the container rotated thru 3 planes to fully coat the inside then the pitch is poured out. This can be repeated once or twice more if necessary - twice more at maximum, but on most cups one thin coat is enough B. Brewers pitch remains flexible, epoxy resins harden too much and will crack away from the leather. A modern alternative would be a flexible rubber coating, but the only types I know of are for roof repairs so they might not be food compatible. Although Brewers Pitch isn't food approved either anymore as its been replaced by better alternatives of the 21st century C. Improper mixing and application causes the pitch to go on too thick and too hard, which causes it to crack after a while or after the container gets a knock. This has led it to having a poor reputation. I have a 14th/15th century cup lined with pitch, its still in very good usable condition [actually I think no.3 son has nicked it for his collection!] D. Brewers pitch sealing was done on leather flasks, some examples have survived from the Mary Rose and are on display in that museum Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
billybopp Report post Posted May 20, 2018 19 hours ago, Mujician said: Also - would casting, or epoxy resin be a suitable modern alternative to pitch? there's some info in this thread about food-save high temp epoxy resin .. http://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/26684-sealant-for-leather-mugsbottles-with-hot-liquids/ -Bill Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites