Tutorial on Mug Making

[Bard Skye]

Skye,

With dyes and stains, the wax hardening is going to change the color. If I'm trying for specific colors, I'll use acrylic paints. I haven't seen the wax saturation process alter the colors any (even metallics for the most part) and the process acts like a sealer for the paint. Of course, you'll need to make sure the paint is completely dry before waxing, and I'll even thin the paint a bit to make sure the leather 'grabs' it well enough.

The skull bottle I use as my profile picture was done 6 years ago (I think, maybe 5). We've taken it with us around the country and it's been under waterfalls, bouncing in the surf, dropped off 2nd story balconies (not on purpose). Over the years it has started to develop some scuff marks that has removed some of the paint, but that's about the only way you'll get the paint to come off.

Hope this helps!

It does indeed!

Just what I wanted to know.

Hmmmm..... Acrylics over Vinigaroon.....

Thank You!

Skye

[Harag]

Thanks for an excellent tutorial, much appreciated.

[jeremyw501]

Thank you for a great tutorial! I am just entering the world of leather and trying to decide where I want to start the journey.

[Mujician]

Is brewers pitch a neccesity, or can a tankard like this be successfully sealed with just beeswax?

[fredk]

Beeswax melts at about 65 degrees; it'll do for cold drinks but not hot. It won't do for anything containing alcohol either as it dissolves the beeswax

[Mujician]

Ah, okay - so fairly important then? How about a 50/50 mix of beeswax and pitch? I have seen this suggested by someone somewhere else. I am yet to try making a leather mug - but When I do, what is the best way to apply the pitch? can it be painted on, or does it need pouring in and the cup rotating or another method? Does it matter how close to the rim the pitch is?

[Mujician]

Also - would casting, or epoxy resin be a suitable modern alternative to pitch?

[fredk]

A.  I cannot really answer about pitch as I have not used it on anything. However as far as I know, brewers pitch comes as a solid and needs heated to liquefy it, beeswax can be added as a flow enhancer and to help the pitch stay flexible. The hot liquid pitch is poured into the container, which has been warmed, and the container rotated thru 3 planes to fully coat the inside then the pitch is poured out. This can be repeated once or twice more if necessary - twice more at maximum, but on most cups one thin coat is enough

B. Brewers pitch remains flexible, epoxy resins harden too much and will crack away from the leather. A modern alternative would be a flexible rubber coating, but the only types I know of are for roof repairs so they might not be food compatible. Although Brewers Pitch isn't food approved either anymore as its been replaced by better alternatives of the 21st century

C. Improper mixing and application causes the pitch to go on too thick and too hard, which causes it to crack after a while or after the container gets a knock. This has led it to having a poor reputation. I have a 14th/15th century cup lined with pitch, its still in very good usable condition [actually I think no.3 son has nicked it for his collection!]

D. Brewers pitch sealing was done on leather flasks, some examples have survived from the Mary Rose and are on display in that museum

[billybopp]

19 hours ago, Mujician said:

Also - would casting, or epoxy resin be a suitable modern alternative to pitch?

there's some info in this thread about food-save high temp epoxy resin .. http://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/26684-sealant-for-leather-mugsbottles-with-hot-liquids/

-Bill