Preventing Rust on Tools

[jeffdurfee]

Hi guys,

I've recently moved to south Texas and the humidity here is killing me, and my tools!!! You've got to love those nice high-carbon blades when they are sharp, but the humidity here loves them just as much. Does anyone have any good suggestions to help prevent rust on tools like splitterblades, strap end punches, etc, besides just WD40? If you use enough of it, WD40 tends to leave a residue. I'm open to any suggestions.

Thanks in advance!

[csoty]

Militec-1, maybe?

[tonyc1]

For the past 25 years I've always used Break-Free on the surface of any metal and firearms and it has prevented any surface rust on my gear.

Tony.

[Denster]

Johnsons paste wax in the yellow and red can from your local Kroger or equivalent store. Thin coat on let dry and buff. I have a highly acidic system and can rust metal by looking at it:). I use it on the tables of my shop tools, hand tools, the firearms I use for wet molding holsters and any other metal surface I might touch. Works great and lasts a long time and easy to renew. Cheap too I've been using the same can for over five years.

[barra]

I used to live in Darwin, Northern Territory which is in the tropics. Here is a number of things I have done to warn off the rust. I covered up my tool rack when not in use. Tools that were not frequently used I would keep in tool boxes with either those little dessicant packets or a toilet roll to absorb moisture. I then made canvas tool rolls for groups of tools, 1 tool roll for all my punches, another for edge tools etc. This way when not in use the tools were covered up. I would also keep my bench tools covered up with an oily cloth when not in use. A little smear of vaseline here and there worked well too.

Barra

[TexasJack]

Gun stores (and maybe walmart) sell a spray called "Barricade". It smells suspiciously like WD-40 to me, but it does help kill the corrosion cells. (Corrosion is an electrochemical reaction - like a battery.) Use that or WD-40 to clean the tools. Then use wax (as has been suggested earlier).

Think of it this way: You put oil on the surface of metal, and then water condenses on it. What does oil do on water? It floats, taking it away from the surface of the metal and allowing the water to corrode it. Wax is solid (at least once the solvent in it evaporates). It is far more likely to stick to the surface than any oil.

An 'old-timer' who ran a maintenance shop for a company I once worked for showed me that trick. He used it on band saw tables and his metal lathe.

One more thing: With wax, "more" is no always "better". If it's thick, it can flake off. I use it a lot and I've been using the same can of wax for at least 5 years.

[barra]

I also rack all my awl blades so the blade is stuck in a cork. If anything it is a good excuse to collect corks

To me the best way to keep the rust at bay on a tool is to use it frequently.

Barra

[TTcustom]

More corks, dagnabit I am working on getting more corks!

[TimKleffner]

Howdy Jeff

I'm down here in Corpus Christi and have the same problems you describe. I use all the above mentioned products. Give me a shout if you get down this way.

By the way, Hawgman lives there in Victoria..

Happy tooling

Tim

Edited December 1, 2009 by TimKleffner

[electrathon]

Automotive paste wax will work and it makes the tools slide nicly through the leather too.

I prefer McGuires #26 yellow paste wax.

Aaron

[asitcomestome]

I toss a few of those Silica packets that come with your new shoes into my toolboxes.

Those packets just sit there absorbing moisture in the air.