frank207 Report post Posted October 26, 2009 I have a Tandy wooded strap cutter and there is a beveling on one side. Should this beveling be on the Left or Right side while your cutting? Also, are the more expensive metal strap cutters/draw guage better, ie: easier to use and keeping a straighter line? Thanks Frank Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pete Report post Posted October 26, 2009 I'm not really clear on what you mean by beveling. The handle is held in front of you with the razor blade on your left. The leather is placed in the slot between the cross pieces and it is pulled away from you. Yes they make an aluminum/metal one but these are cheaper and work real well. Had mine for years. pete Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
celticleather Report post Posted October 26, 2009 I have a Tandy wooded strap cutter and there is a beveling on one side. Should this beveling be on the Left or Right side while your cutting? Also, are the more expensive metal strap cutters/draw guage better, ie: easier to use and keeping a straighter line? Thanks Frank I guess by 'bevelling' you mean the concave cutout in the handle of the cutter (see indicated on pic). This should be on the left-hand side of the cutter, as on the picture. I've had the wooden version of this for over thirty years, and it's still going strong! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bruce johnson Report post Posted October 26, 2009 Frank, The ones being referred to by Pete and Celtic are made by another company than the one you probably have. They are made kind of locally here from hardwood and I never really have heard anyone with a complaint about them. There are some being sold not made by them, and may not be hardwood. I bought a few of them on sale thinking I could just leave them set to specific widths. I had a couple that the blade was not parallel with the handle and they tracked in or out. From your description, I suspect that is what you have. I haven't used the metal version other than to try it at the TLF store. Here is a link I found to the company that makes the original - The Original Strap Cutter. There is phone number and if they can't sell direct they can probably tell who carries them. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kevinhopkins Report post Posted October 27, 2009 Hi Frank, That little rounded bevel, absolutely has to be on the left. (same side as the blade) It's not that it won't work with it the other way, but you'll always have a tendency to "pull off" if it is. As to the "original strapcutter", we sell them if you need. Happy Strapping! Kevin@springfieldleather.com Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Somawas Report post Posted October 27, 2009 The aluminum one is on a closeout sale at Tandy right now. I bought mine for $22 (Wholesale club) and it works like a charm. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Grizzly Bear Report post Posted December 28, 2010 i bought the same one but not sure how to set it up new to leather craft could use some help thanx The aluminum one is on a closeout sale at Tandy right now. I bought mine for $22 (Wholesale club) and it works like a charm. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jesleright Report post Posted January 1, 2011 Hi frank207, i had trouble with one of those tandy strap cutters as well, and had posted a topic in the "How do I do that?" section back in September. Celticleather told me to put a narrow strip of card (1/4" by 1/16") inside the handle on the cutting side. i tried it, but it didn't work on the tandy strap cutter i had. So i experimented with an "Olfa" brand "CMP2" heavy duty circle cutter, (bought from cutting-mats.net $37.80; can be bought from other drafting, art, and hobby stores at lower prices) started out using the pivot needle and then 2 small pieces of wood as a fence, but both methods produced an uneven cut. Then i read the topic "Tips/tricks For Cutting Straight Edge The Length Of Full Side?". (see Frank's post in topic, quoted here). FrankPosted 16 November 2010 - 05:54 PM I bought a 10' length of steel shelving channel ( U-shaped that gets screwed to the wall and brackets placed on to create instant shelves) for about $2.50 at any hardware store. The U-shape makes it very easy to press down and scribe a line without it sliding on the leather. Thank's Frank!We had redone the pantry, so i had some spare shelf standards/pilasters to use. Asked my Dad (He has more experience in cutting metal) to cut the shelf standard short and remove the sides from the middle of it to fit the circle cutter; filed the ends somewaht smooth; placed leather in the gaps between the standard and the circle cutter; and put the large washer on top of the standard to prevent bending. To start the cut,clip the corner of the leather (The shelf standard tends to catch on the leather when starting the cut). Set the blade to just touching the cutting board or mat. Cuts smooth and evenly the rest of the way. Sometimes needs a second pass with a knife to finish the cut. There are a few cons to using this thing: 1. The scale on the circle cutter is metric, so if you want inches, use a ruler; or with blade slightly exposed, place object of desired width between blade and shelf standard, and tighten the nut. 2. Limited cutting width (about 1 1/4" to about 5 5/8"; about 2.8cm to about 14.4cm) 3. Unless you cut part of the depth and finish with a knife, cutting boards or mats are required to protect work surface and blade. 4. Leather thickness is limited to thicker leather (i have only cut about 8 oz. with it thus far, so i don't know how thin it will go). And that "Original" strap cutter sounds like it is worth a try, from what i've read in previous posts. jesler Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites