Adler 30-1 Threading Problem

[Wizcrafts]

ok, its time for parts quiz time!! put your thinking caps on, and NO GUESSES!

please add/correct anything i have wrong/missing....

1. Thumb Screw - locks/loostens the foot (swings 360 degrees)

2. Tension Plates - FOR DARNING??

3. Tension Plates (upper) - using this one, knob adjusts tension on upper thread

4. Take up lever adjustment

5. Presser foot drop down

6. Stitch length regulator - the lower the bracket, the longer the stitch? (at lowest setting now, still getting 10-12 stitches per inch... too tight!)

7. Leather 'washer' over 'puck' - unsure of why this is here, but machine will not work without it. 'puck' doesnt raise enough without it to reach the bar to move the foot

8. Wing nut - adjusts the lift of the foot?

9. ??? does this adjust the pressure of the foot onto the material? (i am getting pressure foot marks on the material, its pushing down too hard)

THANKS!!!

Yes to all, but #2. It can be a second tensioner for thick top thread, if needed, or a tension disk feeding the bobbin winder. Also, the leather spacer under the lift adjuster means that the lifter or puck has worn down. You set the pressor foot tension with the thumbscrew in the middle of the leaf spring. If the teeth are marking the material too much, back off a turn, or two. You just need enough tension to pull the work evenly, to stitch it. The short stitches are the result of a worn puck inside the rotating assembly, at the bottom of the head. See if you can find replacement parts pertaining to the pressor foot bracket assembly.

[ginny]

wiz, thanks for your confirmations here...

you mention the "You set the pressor foot tension with the thumbscrew in the middle of the leaf spring" which # is that, or did i even give it a #?

any resources for parts (websites or whatnot) that i should try? i do have a shop kinda near me that works on commercial/industrial machines so i will call them too, but i dont think i want to pay what they are going to ask... id rather do it myself if possible.

thanks again!

you ALL are a blessing and a Godsend!!

[Wizcrafts]

wiz, thanks for your confirmations here...

you mention the "You set the pressor foot tension with the thumbscrew in the middle of the leaf spring" which # is that, or did i even give it a #?

any resources for parts (websites or whatnot) that i should try? i do have a shop kinda near me that works on commercial/industrial machines so i will call them too, but i dont think i want to pay what they are going to ask... id rather do it myself if possible.

thanks again!

you ALL are a blessing and a Godsend!!

Ginny;

I believe you labeled the leaf spring number 9. It is a long flat spring on the back of the machine, with a big screw adjuster near the middle of it. Its front end goes into a slot in the back of the head, and applies downward pressure to the pressor foot. Tighten or loosen the adjuster screw in the middle of the long leaf spring to control the pressure of the foot.

Good luck with your patcher. If anybody on this forum has Adler parts they will let you know about it. Otherwise, contact Bob Kovar, at Toledo Industrial Sewing Machine Sales, at: 419-380-8540. I know he has Singer patcher parts, so maybe he'll have some for your Adler.

Really, all you need to fix is the problem of wear in the pressor foot mechanism, where it goes up into the ring in the bottom of the head and that lift adjuster that you say needs a strip of leather to lift properly. That's two or three parts. Shouldn't cost much more than a thousand dollars! LOL

[ginny]

so i took the leaf spring off the back, and noticed that it has a pretty significant curve to it. is that normal, or has it 'warped' over time?

Ginny;

I believe you labeled the leaf spring number 9. It is a long flat spring on the back of the machine, with a big screw adjuster near the middle of it. Its front end goes into a slot in the back of the head, and applies downward pressure to the pressor foot. Tighten or loosen the adjuster screw in the middle of the long leaf spring to control the pressure of the foot.

Good luck with your patcher. If anybody on this forum has Adler parts they will let you know about it. Otherwise, contact Bob Kovar, at Toledo Industrial Sewing Machine Sales, at: 419-380-8540. I know he has Singer patcher parts, so maybe he'll have some for your Adler.

Really, all you need to fix is the problem of wear in the pressor foot mechanism, where it goes up into the ring in the bottom of the head and that lift adjuster that you say needs a strip of leather to lift properly. That's two or three parts. Shouldn't cost much more than a thousand dollars! LOL

[nele]

Hi,

I just discovered this forum, because I wanted to buy a beautiful adler 30, but when I got to the seller, there seemed some 'minor' problems with the machine. So now I'm looking for advice or a mechanics manual. I'm a bit in a hurry, as I have not bought the machine yet, but if it really is a minor problem, I want to notify him as quikly as possible.

So, now about the problem The machine looks absolutely fine, but the needle is - when completely down - about three milimeters from the hole in the arm it should be going through. The foot is turning beautifully around the hole, so nothhing's wrong there, except that it doesn't seems to take the leather.

Someone an idea whether it is fixeable, or had this problem theirselves?

Thank you very much,

Nele.

hey all! long time lurker, 1st post!

i am *ahem* machine sitting an adler 30-1 for my brother in law until i can get my COBRA FROM STEVE!!

bro-in-law confirms that the machine did sew when he got it, so i know it works... i have done some LIGHT cleaning (nothing major) and have oiled the machine. i have a photocopy of a singer 29-4 instruction manual, a 29-k70 instruction manual and the adler 30 manual for mechanics.... however i am having a hard time getting it to thread correctly.

at this point, i have the upper thread threaded correctly, to the best i can tell... and have the bobbin in the shuttle. when i hand crank the wheel, the needle goes down, but does not pick up the bobbin thread. i am sure it is something simple like incorrect bobbin placement or something like this... but i am not sure how to fix from this point.

anyone that can provide some help would be welcome... and if pictures/video are needed to explain, i will be happy to take/post.

thanks for the great forums here, youve been very helpful so far!

[Luke Hatley]

NELE........IF THE MACHINE IS IN GREAT LOOKING SHAPE AND THE PRICE IS LOW.

TAKE IT TO A SEWING MACHINE MECHANIC, LET HIM LOOK AT IT AND GET THE PRICE TO FIX ANYTHING THAT IS WRONG, THEN YOU WILL HAVE A GREAT PATCH MACHINE.... LIKE I SAID A "PATCH MACHINE"

[ginny]

anyone have any thoughts on the rear spring?? see picture/comment about 3 posts ago.

can i 'flip' it over and use it the other way to bend it back? or is it supposed to be that curved to begin with?

thanks!

[ginny]

ok, flipped over the spring... and have some 'jerry rigging' going, but sucessful! i am getting longer stitches (i think because the foot isnt pressing down so hard, it can advance properly)... and so far so good.

ultimately, the patcher isnt the solution to my stitching needs, but it will keep me going for now... until i get my cobra from steve!!

and, a quick plug for steve, he called me today to check in on the adler. though i have promised to buying his machine, he has not received a penny from me, yet took the time to call and check in on my used adler, and offer any support he could. thanks steve!

and thanks to all of you for taking the time to help me with this machine! i am more grateful than you will ever know!

-ginny

anyone have any thoughts on the rear spring?? see picture/comment about 3 posts ago.

can i 'flip' it over and use it the other way to bend it back? or is it supposed to be that curved to begin with?

thanks!

[Wizcrafts]

Ginny;

That's interesting about your spring. Mine is also bowed downwards, but not as much. Maybe someone mistakenly forced your leaf spring into an excessive arch, creating too much pressure on the foot. Do you still need that leather spacer under the lift adjuster slider over the spring?

Things like this are a learning experience for all who have patchers. Who would-a thunk it?

[ginny]

Wiz, i am actually going to see if i can get someone who knows steel/cast iron? to bend it back straight.... or straighter...

i have experimented both with and without the leather spacer... i think that fixing the spring will eliminate the need for the spacer, but we will see.

unfortunately, flipping it over kinda just takes it from one extreme to the other, but i really think there is a happy medium somewhere!!

i am still having difficulty getting the tension right on the thread. i have the bobbin tension set as tight as i can. i have loosened the top tension as much as possible, even to the point of just taking the spring off. i still have 'tight upper tension' according to the example images in the instruction manual. any thoughts about this?

[Wizcrafts]

Wiz, i am actually going to see if i can get someone who knows steel/cast iron? to bend it back straight.... or straighter...

i have experimented both with and without the leather spacer... i think that fixing the spring will eliminate the need for the spacer, but we will see.

unfortunately, flipping it over kinda just takes it from one extreme to the other, but i really think there is a happy medium somewhere!!

i am still having difficulty getting the tension right on the thread. i have the bobbin tension set as tight as i can. i have loosened the top tension as much as possible, even to the point of just taking the spring off. i still have 'tight upper tension' according to the example images in the instruction manual. any thoughts about this?

The leaf spring needs a small amount of arch to exert proper force on the pressor foot and lefter parts. When you find a metal worker ask him/her to reduce the arch by 50% to start. Try it and decide if it needs more or less reduction.

BTW: the spring normally is installed with the arched side up. You adjust the pressure with the big screw on top of the spring, towards the back.

Thread tension

If the bobbin spring is tightened all the way and the thread is feeding under it, then through the tiny output hole and there is decent tension when you pull on the thread, then the top should be inspected to see if the thread is twisting around any obstacles. The thread should feed smoothly and totally freely off the spool, through the oil pot, around in inside the top tension discs, through a little loop, up to the takeup arm, down the snout, into the left side of the needle. Do not thread the top thread through the secondary tension discs unless it is really needed.

With the bobbin thread properly adjusted to a mild tightness, with smooth feeding, the top thread should have a little more tension when pulled just before the needle. If there is a big difference in the top tension, look to find out what is squeezing the thread so tight. If the thread cone is on the spindle on the top-rear of the machine, get it out of there. Put the thread behind the read quarters on top of the shelf on the back of the machine. Feed it up, from behind the trolley, around the spindle, and on to the thread path. I do this and it relieves all top thread problems. I even feed the thread coming off the cone into the thumb hole in the threading rod, which I have stuck securely into the trolley, with the hole sticking out in the back, on the back of the trolley. This places it just ahead of a cone of thread sitting on the back "shelf" of the body of the machine.

If the bobbin is too tight the stitches will be knotted under the work. If the top is jamming the stitch knots will sit on top. If the spring in the upper tension adjuster is too heavy it will cause upper tension problems. Compare that spring to the one on the front of the machine and use the lighter spring on top, if it will fit.

Edited November 17, 2009 by Wizcrafts

[Trox]

Hi Ginny!

They still produce the Adler class 30 machine in a newer version but many parts are the same, like the presser foot spring for example . You can by spare parts for your machine Adler 30-1 in Germany. Speak to Andreas Kern in Sieck International Germany www.sieck.de sieck@t-online.de . They are rebuilding and selling used leather machinery and are experts on Adler sewing machines. I got 2 Adler 30 class my self and I have no problem getting parts for them, even here in Norway the have the most common spare parts in stock. Sieck also have parts list and manuals for sale, but if you need user manual you can go to http://parts.singerco.com/ and download manuals for the singer 29k. I also have the Singer 29k - 72 and the only difference between them and Adler class 30 are the pressure spring, in operating it is the same. YOU COULD USE A OPERATING MANUAL! When these Adler machines gets worn out you will have a shorter stitch length, there are some trick to fix that but the best thing are to by some new parts for the feeding mechanism. Don’t start with the timing but read the operating manuals and treading guide first. (Adler machines like one size lighter tread in the bobbin) Good luck!

Tor

[ginny]

Trox and Wiz, thanks for your input. i havent gotten to play with the machine yesterday or today... but will be messing with it tomorrow, so should have some more feedback.

as for the instruction manual, i have:

1. adler 30: manual for mechanics

2. instruction manual for singer 29-4

3. instruction manual for 29k70

i will def. look into a new spring, and possibly a new feeding mechanism.

will let you know how tomorrows 'experimenting' goes!

thanks! keep the ideas coming!

i am SURE this thread will be useful to others down the road too, so im happy to keep the discussion going on behalf of ALL 30-1 users!

Hi Ginny!

They still produce the Adler class 30 machine in a newer version but many parts are the same, like the presser foot spring for example . You can by spare parts for your machine Adler 30-1 in Germany. Speak to Andreas Kern in Sieck International Germany www.sieck.de sieck@t-online.de . They are rebuilding and selling used leather machinery and are experts on Adler sewing machines. I got 2 Adler 30 class my self and I have no problem getting parts for them, even here in Norway the have the most common spare parts in stock. Sieck also have parts list and manuals for sale, but if you need user manual you can go to http://parts.singerco.com/ and download manuals for the singer 29k. I also have the Singer 29k - 72 and the only difference between them and Adler class 30 are the pressure spring, in operating it is the same. YOU COULD USE A OPERATING MANUAL! When these Adler machines gets worn out you will have a shorter stitch length, there are some trick to fix that but the best thing are to by some new parts for the feeding mechanism. Don't start with the timing but read the operating manuals and treading guide first. (Adler machines like one size lighter tread in the bobbin) Good luck!

Tor

[CowboyBob]

Ginny,

Don't bend the spring!There's probably some other reason it won't feed,loose ,worn parts maybe the foot is slipping on the leather,these machines weren't made for real precise sewing.Although I know alot of people that have done some fantastic sewing on them.

[Hawgman]

This post has been extremly informative. Great job.

I have an Adler 30-1 also and am looking for a bobbin winder.

Anyone have a clue where to find this little jewel.

I looked on the site that Trox suggested but my German is a little rusty.

[CowboyBob]

Hawgman,

I am an Adler dealer & checked with them & they sell for $235.00,how many would you like??LOL

We have also cut down the standard industrial bobbinwinder & made them work for a lot less$$

[Hawgman]

Sewmun I am interested in the cut down version. Can I give you a call and discuss this?

[Trox]

This post has been extremly informative. Great job.

I have an Adler 30-1 also and am looking for a bobbin winder.

Anyone have a clue where to find this little jewel.

I looked on the site that Trox suggested but my German is a little rusty.

Hi Hawgman!

You got to click on the little English flag to right on the Sick web site for your language! (there are no spare parts on the web site, you must send him an email and ask for it)

I’ve got a bobbin winder for you! It’s a little rusty but I will put it in coca cola to night and it will be ok in the morning. You can have it for free but you must pay for freight yourself. I live faraway from you, Oslo in Norway (not to far from the north pole). Its between 70 and 100 gram heavy, I don’t know the shipping price but check with UPS or Us postal.

The rubber ring is missing, but that you can find anywhere or make your self.

I will check the price on cash on delivery with the Norwegian Post service for you if you want it? I’ve got an extra Adler 30-10 spare part machine, one that I got for free. I’m happy to help a fellow leather crafter! Here is some pic. Of it! It will not cost U more than 60 Us $ in freight, maybe less. If you can use it? It yours!

Tor

[Hawgman]

Hi Hawgman!

You got to click on the little English flag to right on the Sick web site for your language! (there are no spare parts on the web site, you must send him an email and ask for it)

I've got a bobbin winder for you! It's a little rusty but I will put it in coca cola to night and it will be ok in the morning. You can have it for free but you must pay for freight yourself. I live faraway from you, Oslo in Norway (not to far from the north pole). Its between 70 and 100 gram heavy, I don't know the shipping price but check with UPS or Us postal.

The rubber ring is missing, but that you can find anywhere or make your self.

I will check the price on cash on delivery with the Norwegian Post service for you if you want it? I've got an extra Adler 30-10 spare part machine, one that I got for free. I'm happy to help a fellow leather crafter! Here is some pic. Of it! It will not cost U more than 60 Us $ in freight, maybe less. If you can use it? It yours!

Tor

Tor, Man you rock. It would be an honor to recieve this gift from you. If you want to, just send it to me postage due or we can find out how much shipping will be and I can send you the money up front. What ever is the easiest for you.

My address is as follows:

Mark E. Caylor

59 Alabama Ave.

Victoria, Texas 77905

Let me know.

I stand in amazement of the support and generosity of the people on Leatherworker.net.

God Bless all of you.

[ginny]

ok, so one person has objected to the bending of the spring... however, others of you have suggested that after looking at their machine, their spring isnt as curved.

the reason i feel that the spring may be too far bent is that the presser foot is very heavy... making foot markings (even when not sewing, just dropping the foot down) even in its lightest setting. so it appears that the spring is pushing the foot mechanism down too hard, because of the curvature.

i'll re-post the picture too, maybe some folks can take a look and compare it to theirs...

[Wizcrafts]

Ginny;

I just removed the leaf spring from my 29-4 patcher and laid it on a flat table, with the arch side up. I measured the highest point of the arch, and it is just barely over 3/8" above the table (1/4" max. on underside of arch). My tension is fully adjustable from very light to very heavy, with this amount of arch.

My spring is 1/8" thick and 11 3/16" long, if that matters. The measurement was made with the lift adjuster removed.

Edited November 20, 2009 by Wizcrafts

[ginny]

wiz, this confirms my 'fears'. i did the same for mine, (it is the exact same dimensions as yours btw, little over 11" long and 1/8" thick) and my arch is significantly greater. when measuring from the bottom to the top of the metal, (including the 1/8" thickness) it measures 1/2", and if measured to under the metal, 3/8" (obviously this makes sense as it is simply 1/8" less, or the width of the bar).

i am off to charleston sc for the weekend, to visit with family, but i will be online if i can, and will def. check in on sunday night.

thanks for this WONDERFUL thread, all the replies and this great website, leatherworker.net.

Ginny;

I just removed the leaf spring from my 29-4 patcher and laid it on a flat table, with the arch side up. I measured the highest point of the arch, and it is just barely over 3/8" above the table (1/4" max. on underside of arch). My tension is fully adjustable from very light to very heavy, with this amount of arch.

My spring is 1/8" thick and 11 3/16" long, if that matters. The measurement was made with the lift adjuster removed.

[Trox]

Tor, Man you rock. It would be an honor to recieve this gift from you. If you want to, just send it to me postage due or we can find out how much shipping will be and I can send you the money up front. What ever is the easiest for you.

My address is as follows:

Mark E. Caylor

59 Alabama Ave.

Victoria, Texas 77905

Let me know.

I stand in amazement of the support and generosity of the people on Leatherworker.net.

God Bless all of you.

Thanks Hawgman!

I’ve sent an email to the Norwegian postal service yesterday, and asked for the price sending it cash on delivery to the States. No answer yet. No time on Monday, but Tuesday I’m free to send it. I’ll send you a PM with the price and more info when I have it. There is lots of this old shoe repairing units for sale here in Norway. They are cheap to, because shoemakers and saddlers are a dying breed here. On Monday I’m picking up a used Adler 204-64 with a efka position motor, I bough for 4000 NOK (700 US $) and It’s in good condition. New it cost more than 100000 NOK here. I’ve got 2 working shoe sewing machines. One Adler and a Singer, and one Adler spare part machine. And 3 big saddler sewing machines. I can only use one at the time and this bobbin winders will not break anyway. So I’m only happy to help you! Later!

Tor

[CowboyBob]

Ginny,

FWIW the machines of these type are supposed to be used for repair work not finish sewing.I have seen people do some pretty nice work on them but you have to rub out the marks.

If the top foot doesn't mark the material then can't grab it enough to pull it through,I have known people that have ground off the teeth,you then may need to asist by pulling it & then it can also skip stitches if it gets too loose.

I measured an Adler 30-1 here & it has 10mm arch under the center of the spring which is alittle over 3/8"

Sure it's your machine & you can do what ever you want,it's just that I've been in this machine biz for over 29yrs & didn't want to see you damage the spring,Adlers parts aren't cheap,sure less arch will mark less but it'll still mark & then with less pressure it won't hold thicker leather down,this is why most Adler 30's will sew alittle heavier than Singers.

[Hawgman]

Thanks Hawgman!

I've sent an email to the Norwegian postal service yesterday, and asked for the price sending it cash on delivery to the States. No answer yet. No time on Monday, but Tuesday I'm free to send it. I'll send you a PM with the price and more info when I have it. There is lots of this old shoe repairing units for sale here in Norway. They are cheap to, because shoemakers and saddlers are a dying breed here. On Monday I'm picking up a used Adler 204-64 with a efka position motor, I bough for 4000 NOK (700 US $) and It's in good condition. New it cost more than 100000 NOK here. I've got 2 working shoe sewing machines. One Adler and a Singer, and one Adler spare part machine. And 3 big saddler sewing machines. I can only use one at the time and this bobbin winders will not break anyway. So I'm only happy to help you! Later!

Tor

Ok Tor I am waiting with much anticipation. Sounds like I need to come to Norway to look for some bargins. What a trip that would be.