Adler 30-1 Threading Problem

[Wizcrafts]

Wiz, i am actually going to see if i can get someone who knows steel/cast iron? to bend it back straight.... or straighter...

i have experimented both with and without the leather spacer... i think that fixing the spring will eliminate the need for the spacer, but we will see.

unfortunately, flipping it over kinda just takes it from one extreme to the other, but i really think there is a happy medium somewhere!!

i am still having difficulty getting the tension right on the thread. i have the bobbin tension set as tight as i can. i have loosened the top tension as much as possible, even to the point of just taking the spring off. i still have 'tight upper tension' according to the example images in the instruction manual. any thoughts about this?

The leaf spring needs a small amount of arch to exert proper force on the pressor foot and lefter parts. When you find a metal worker ask him/her to reduce the arch by 50% to start. Try it and decide if it needs more or less reduction.

BTW: the spring normally is installed with the arched side up. You adjust the pressure with the big screw on top of the spring, towards the back.

Thread tension

If the bobbin spring is tightened all the way and the thread is feeding under it, then through the tiny output hole and there is decent tension when you pull on the thread, then the top should be inspected to see if the thread is twisting around any obstacles. The thread should feed smoothly and totally freely off the spool, through the oil pot, around in inside the top tension discs, through a little loop, up to the takeup arm, down the snout, into the left side of the needle. Do not thread the top thread through the secondary tension discs unless it is really needed.

With the bobbin thread properly adjusted to a mild tightness, with smooth feeding, the top thread should have a little more tension when pulled just before the needle. If there is a big difference in the top tension, look to find out what is squeezing the thread so tight. If the thread cone is on the spindle on the top-rear of the machine, get it out of there. Put the thread behind the read quarters on top of the shelf on the back of the machine. Feed it up, from behind the trolley, around the spindle, and on to the thread path. I do this and it relieves all top thread problems. I even feed the thread coming off the cone into the thumb hole in the threading rod, which I have stuck securely into the trolley, with the hole sticking out in the back, on the back of the trolley. This places it just ahead of a cone of thread sitting on the back "shelf" of the body of the machine.

If the bobbin is too tight the stitches will be knotted under the work. If the top is jamming the stitch knots will sit on top. If the spring in the upper tension adjuster is too heavy it will cause upper tension problems. Compare that spring to the one on the front of the machine and use the lighter spring on top, if it will fit.

Edited November 17, 2009 by Wizcrafts

[Trox]

Hi Ginny!

They still produce the Adler class 30 machine in a newer version but many parts are the same, like the presser foot spring for example . You can by spare parts for your machine Adler 30-1 in Germany. Speak to Andreas Kern in Sieck International Germany www.sieck.de sieck@t-online.de . They are rebuilding and selling used leather machinery and are experts on Adler sewing machines. I got 2 Adler 30 class my self and I have no problem getting parts for them, even here in Norway the have the most common spare parts in stock. Sieck also have parts list and manuals for sale, but if you need user manual you can go to http://parts.singerco.com/ and download manuals for the singer 29k. I also have the Singer 29k - 72 and the only difference between them and Adler class 30 are the pressure spring, in operating it is the same. YOU COULD USE A OPERATING MANUAL! When these Adler machines gets worn out you will have a shorter stitch length, there are some trick to fix that but the best thing are to by some new parts for the feeding mechanism. Don’t start with the timing but read the operating manuals and treading guide first. (Adler machines like one size lighter tread in the bobbin) Good luck!

Tor

[ginny]

Trox and Wiz, thanks for your input. i havent gotten to play with the machine yesterday or today... but will be messing with it tomorrow, so should have some more feedback.

as for the instruction manual, i have:

1. adler 30: manual for mechanics

2. instruction manual for singer 29-4

3. instruction manual for 29k70

i will def. look into a new spring, and possibly a new feeding mechanism.

will let you know how tomorrows 'experimenting' goes!

thanks! keep the ideas coming!

i am SURE this thread will be useful to others down the road too, so im happy to keep the discussion going on behalf of ALL 30-1 users!

Hi Ginny!

They still produce the Adler class 30 machine in a newer version but many parts are the same, like the presser foot spring for example . You can by spare parts for your machine Adler 30-1 in Germany. Speak to Andreas Kern in Sieck International Germany www.sieck.de sieck@t-online.de . They are rebuilding and selling used leather machinery and are experts on Adler sewing machines. I got 2 Adler 30 class my self and I have no problem getting parts for them, even here in Norway the have the most common spare parts in stock. Sieck also have parts list and manuals for sale, but if you need user manual you can go to http://parts.singerco.com/ and download manuals for the singer 29k. I also have the Singer 29k - 72 and the only difference between them and Adler class 30 are the pressure spring, in operating it is the same. YOU COULD USE A OPERATING MANUAL! When these Adler machines gets worn out you will have a shorter stitch length, there are some trick to fix that but the best thing are to by some new parts for the feeding mechanism. Don't start with the timing but read the operating manuals and treading guide first. (Adler machines like one size lighter tread in the bobbin) Good luck!

Tor

[CowboyBob]

Ginny,

Don't bend the spring!There's probably some other reason it won't feed,loose ,worn parts maybe the foot is slipping on the leather,these machines weren't made for real precise sewing.Although I know alot of people that have done some fantastic sewing on them.

[Hawgman]

This post has been extremly informative. Great job.

I have an Adler 30-1 also and am looking for a bobbin winder.

Anyone have a clue where to find this little jewel.

I looked on the site that Trox suggested but my German is a little rusty.

[CowboyBob]

Hawgman,

I am an Adler dealer & checked with them & they sell for $235.00,how many would you like??LOL

We have also cut down the standard industrial bobbinwinder & made them work for a lot less$$

[Hawgman]

Sewmun I am interested in the cut down version. Can I give you a call and discuss this?

[Trox]

This post has been extremly informative. Great job.

I have an Adler 30-1 also and am looking for a bobbin winder.

Anyone have a clue where to find this little jewel.

I looked on the site that Trox suggested but my German is a little rusty.

Hi Hawgman!

You got to click on the little English flag to right on the Sick web site for your language! (there are no spare parts on the web site, you must send him an email and ask for it)

I’ve got a bobbin winder for you! It’s a little rusty but I will put it in coca cola to night and it will be ok in the morning. You can have it for free but you must pay for freight yourself. I live faraway from you, Oslo in Norway (not to far from the north pole). Its between 70 and 100 gram heavy, I don’t know the shipping price but check with UPS or Us postal.

The rubber ring is missing, but that you can find anywhere or make your self.

I will check the price on cash on delivery with the Norwegian Post service for you if you want it? I’ve got an extra Adler 30-10 spare part machine, one that I got for free. I’m happy to help a fellow leather crafter! Here is some pic. Of it! It will not cost U more than 60 Us $ in freight, maybe less. If you can use it? It yours!

Tor

[Hawgman]

Hi Hawgman!

You got to click on the little English flag to right on the Sick web site for your language! (there are no spare parts on the web site, you must send him an email and ask for it)

I've got a bobbin winder for you! It's a little rusty but I will put it in coca cola to night and it will be ok in the morning. You can have it for free but you must pay for freight yourself. I live faraway from you, Oslo in Norway (not to far from the north pole). Its between 70 and 100 gram heavy, I don't know the shipping price but check with UPS or Us postal.

The rubber ring is missing, but that you can find anywhere or make your self.

I will check the price on cash on delivery with the Norwegian Post service for you if you want it? I've got an extra Adler 30-10 spare part machine, one that I got for free. I'm happy to help a fellow leather crafter! Here is some pic. Of it! It will not cost U more than 60 Us $ in freight, maybe less. If you can use it? It yours!

Tor

Tor, Man you rock. It would be an honor to recieve this gift from you. If you want to, just send it to me postage due or we can find out how much shipping will be and I can send you the money up front. What ever is the easiest for you.

My address is as follows:

Mark E. Caylor

59 Alabama Ave.

Victoria, Texas 77905

Let me know.

I stand in amazement of the support and generosity of the people on Leatherworker.net.

God Bless all of you.

[ginny]

ok, so one person has objected to the bending of the spring... however, others of you have suggested that after looking at their machine, their spring isnt as curved.

the reason i feel that the spring may be too far bent is that the presser foot is very heavy... making foot markings (even when not sewing, just dropping the foot down) even in its lightest setting. so it appears that the spring is pushing the foot mechanism down too hard, because of the curvature.

i'll re-post the picture too, maybe some folks can take a look and compare it to theirs...